12 volt into tray

Re: 12 volt into tray

Postby ag9111 on Thu May 25, 2017 6:41 am

I have no doubt that your connection to the chassis at the rear of the ML was probably done better than I would have done and I am positive that the chassis is more than capable of carrying the 50 or so amps that your compressor would have needed. In fact it would handle a couple of thousand amps before it started melting, but my point is it was never designed to carry that current.
What did you do at the front end of the chassis? Or did you rely on all the metal to metal connection points joining the chassis to the body to the motor to the battery. All the major structural connection points between chassis and body are isolated, engine mounts gearbox mounts so little or no current is going to flow through then. Body mounts are bolted through but are subject to dirt oxidation etc i would not rely on them etc etc.
I have no doubt here is probably some point of electrical connection between body and chassis, but it will not be big enough to handle the starting current of your compressor, or in my case the starting current of the engine if I parallel up my batteries.
To design the chassis to carry current you need to do something at both ends, and in most cases it is better, easier, and less work to run a cable back to the negative post on the battery.
A lot of people, as you know, think putting a cable under a bolt head is sufficient and away we go. And this is where I come in. Mates 4wd’s where the beer is not cold when they go away, Excavators, Trucks, plant equipment where the eutectic fridge or UHF or GPS or range finder or depth measurement or weigh system is not working is, most times, traced back to fault 0V connections. I have seen some shocking installs
The monocoque nature of the Pajero is a different situation altogether and makes most of this argument moot
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Re: 12 volt into tray

Postby NowForThe5th on Thu May 25, 2017 8:45 am

ag9111 wrote:What did you do at the front end of the chassis?


There are 2 or 4 (memory fails me - it was 9 years ago) earth connections from body to chassis behind the engine, above gearbox. I did rely on those at that end. My bad. :oops: :P

Good points though. for those doing these installs all this needs to be considered.

Now, if you're not doing anything on Saturday you can help me sort out the ground loop that I've unwittingly created behind my switch bank which makes for some interesting effects by the LEDs in the switches. :lol:
Chris

If work is so terrific, why do they have to pay us to do it?
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Re: 12 volt into tray

Postby ag9111 on Thu May 25, 2017 5:49 pm

LOL
Done
You polish mine!
I'll sort yours
;)

Then we can compare measurements.
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Re: 12 volt into tray

Postby bigredtez on Sat Jun 03, 2017 12:13 pm

gartam wrote:If you want to run power to the tray there is a blocked off electrical junction on the left hand side of the chassis near the fuel tank. It shows it in the diagram in the online manual. When you open the online manual on the left hand side there is a list. Go down to number 70- component locations and it will expand and then click on inspection connentor and spare connector and the diagram shows you where they are.


Great help gartam, thanks. Have you found a plug that fits the connector there, or did you cut it off and wire in a different one?
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Re: 12 volt into tray

Postby milhous2 on Thu Nov 30, 2017 8:08 pm

I ran my power from the main battery under the passenger side to the rear tail light, removed the tail light fitting and pulled it through into the tray there. No holes needed. I mounted my DC-DC charger and battery kit right beside the fridge on the sliding draws I fitted into the back. Attached is a photo.Click to view larger picture

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