Finding and extending the diff breathers

[RockoWallaby]

Heya folks

Was under the car yesterday looking for a path to run some brake and battery wire to the rear, and while there I had a quick look at the rear diff to try and locate the breather. Now, I admit I didn't look very hard (was worried abut other things at the time), but I did come across this little white plastic cap cover which, when removed, had a plastic fitting with a teeny crimped metal cap on it.
Please, someone tell me I simply missed the real breather, and this isn't it?? If it isn't it, any suggestions on what this thing is ?

If it isn't, then anyone know what size brass fittings the breathers have? There's a couple of good kits on eBay with high mounted filters, but don't want to get something only to have to then go buy a bucket load of alternate fittings afterwards.

Aso, apart from the diffs, what else is worth extending the breathers on? I hear the auto gearbox is a good idea. Anyone can advise where the breather is, and what fitting it has?
Also, anything else? Transfer case? Fuel breather? Open to all real suggestions.

The filter in the kit I'm looking at is the "Competition breather kit" with 5 inlet holes, and a small K&N filter inside.
http://www.billetracecraft.com.au/
Not planning on doing "competition", but have the tray to mount it high, and that model is water resistant, where the standard ones aren't.

Appreciate the advice.
Scotty

[Joe]

Check this thread out Scotty

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=4565

[RockoWallaby]

Thanks mate.
Damn, I'd done a search, went through a heap of posts, and still didn't find that topic!
I need my eyes checked....and I'm a bloody optometrist! ;>
Scotty

[sam]

Mate our 1st ML had the rear breather plumbed into the round chassic cross member above the diff but our new one is the same as your's just a cheap little one way valve with the plastic cap so I've already changed it and run a hose to the crossmember.

Another thing was the old one had a fuel tank drain plug and the new one doesn't so anything to save a few bucks I reckon

[Cowboy Dave]

I had the same problem but wasn't game to take off the white plastic thing. if you do hook it up can you take some pictures while you're under there?

[RockoWallaby]

Tonight, I went to put on a diff breather on the rear diff, particularly. So, took the plunge and removed the shitty plastic breather Mitsubishi, in their ultimate Scrooginess, used to replace a REAL breather pipe.

Jesus, Mitsubishi, you people are complete tight-arses.

If you haven't removed it yet (and I wouldn't touch it unless you have to, or it'll probably leak), it pushes into a 16mm hole at the top of the rear diff, being held in place by a crappy rubber washer, and some silicone.

That's it.

It is really, REALLY shitty!! I mean, in all the crappy auomotive fudge factors I've seen over the years, this rates a 10 out of 10.

Mine already had crap in it, that had gotten under the shocking excuse for a dust seal. 9000km. Never done any real offroad or beach work. Already contaminating.

So, the question is, to anyone who's put in a breather system, how'd you fit a brass fitting to the hole? It's pretty thin (around 2mm) so while I was considering tapping it out (after finding an adaper large enough, and a tap big enough), if anyone has another suggestion, I'm open to it.

For MN owners, especially those getting their heels dirty, keep an eye on it. That, and Pray

Rocko

[JamoGLXR]

It's either back to the stealers and say a stray rocked hit it or your tap idea

I hose clamped Onto the top of the plastic stem.. Sounds like it will fail eventually.

How much room between the diff walls and the cogs?
Is it possible to catch swarf?
I can't remember much about the diff I wasn't looking at how to pull it apart

[RockoWallaby]

Noddles. Clamping onto the stem seems an alternative, ut agreed that it'll probably not last
There's not a lot of space from the housing to the guts, but it's not cogs there. Seems like a plate, as didn't move when spun wheels. Probably about 2cm max
Having a thought about welding a small plate across the top, with a nut threaded for the brass adapter.

Honestly, how can Mitsubishi even contemplate relying on a siliconed on rubber washer to protect the diff. Long term wise, it HAS to perish, surely...then what? I'm still stunned at the idiocy of it.

[MN GLXR]

Assuming your diff or gearbox packed it in from the ingress of offroad "gunk" through the breather, I wonder if a repair would be covered by the Mitsu 10yr drive train warranty????

[sam]

You would think if they are going to glue something like this they would use a good quality adhesive like
Sikaflex instead of silicone .
The plate you can see in there is a baffle plate to stop the oil from being pumped out .

[NTBB]

[quote="MN GLXR"]Assuming your diff or gearbox packed it in from the ingress of offroad "gunk" through the breather, I wonder if a repair would be covered by the Mitsu 10yr drive train warrant

MMAL are banking on the fact that sh!t will enter the diff so they can shut down diff repairs on a 7 to 10yr old car under warranty..... Same as the tank bung if they make it to hard to do standard 4wd maintance jobs they won't get done and then they can introduce the foreign contaminant/abuse card into the mix.....

plus they have done their next 5 years diff warranty budget in on sam's diff.....

[RockoWallaby]

Check this thread out Scotty

viewtopic.php?f=47&t=4565

Heya Joe
Unfortunately, the MN is different to the ML. Just a big hole in the top of the diff, and no threaded socket.
I'm arranging a fix tho. Git a guy coming tomorrow to TIG a fitting to the top. It'll be a very neat, and professional, fix. I'll take pics and show what we're doing...
Scotty

[sam]

I hope it doesn't warp the housing and give you DIFF whine .

[RockoWallaby]

I hope it doesn't warp the housing and give you DIFF whine .

Naah, I can whine enough for both me and the diff
TIG is pretty localised heat wise. More for finer jobs. Why I'm getting a pro in to TIG it, rather than MIG it myself.

[RockoWallaby]

OK, here's my fix. I think it turned out pretty good.

Firstly, here's the shitty valve protecting the MN diff, in your $40K plus vehicle. Only thing holding it on was the rubber washer that was siliconed to the diff, then the plug pushed into that. Cheap, shitty, nasty method.
Since I killed it anyway removing it, I pulled it apart to see what it was inside. That crappy spring is nasty....once corroded or it loses tension, forget diff protection!





Remove it, and all thats left is a 16mm hole. Why Bitsa deleted a proper fitting is beyond me, especally when they still left the breather tube attachment on the crossbar, as used in the ML to attach the far end of the diff breather pipe!



I wanted a good quality filter setup. Got this on eBay from Billet Racing. Custom made, with K&N filter inside. Around $200 for the kit, as I recall. It's been sitting around in my shed for about 5 months now, and it was time to install.





So, how to fit a small threaded peg into a large round hole? Considered tapping, but it was a BIG hole, and doing so without getting metal in the diff was going to be dfficult. So, option 2 was use a nut in washer. However, at the bolt place, they suggested a blank threaded plug, with a tread the same as my breather kit fittings, which was perfect for the job. Got a big thick washer to fit it into, and we're set!



Considered doing it myself, but was a bit hesitant. It really needs TIG, SO, got in a pro to do it. Did a beautful job.




Unfortunately, it's a little tight down there, even with the car on the hoist, so the poor bugger hit a brake line by mistake. Thought he was going to die there and then on the spot. Teeny hole in the alloy line, and brake fluid everywhere. We both realised we should have removed the brake line before starting, and it's something I'd suggest anyone else do if they try this themselves. Doing the thing on a hoist is DEFINATELY the way to go, too, if you have access to one.



He did such a great job, too! Oh well, a new line is only $24, and fluid $8, so no biggie. I'll give him some to cover it, even though he said it was a freebie because of it. He did do a nice job.

So, now just to paint, fit breather lines and filter, and replace brake line. Then done all proper-like!
Total cost:
Normally, around $85-$200 for the filter, depending what type you get.
$2.00 for the threaded plug and washer
$50 for welding.
Not that much, all in all.
Now I won't stress going down the beach!
Cheers,
Scotty

[andyj]

Nice job Scotty it would have been fun with the brake fluid every where

[RockoWallaby]

Nice job Scotty it would have been fun with the brake fluid every where

Very much
Speaking of this, I have a spare washer and barrel setup I didn't used (Got 2 in case I had to practice myself) so if anyone wants it, it's here in Ipswich to pickup.

[fraz91]

Hey scotty, do you reckon it'd be possible to do this with a stick-welder? It's the only one i've really got access to :s otherwise would it be possible to get a fitting that goes over the factory breather hole to fit the hose to?

cheers mate,
fraz

[RockoWallaby]

Personally, I wouldn't. The diff is pretty thin, and with the heat put out by an arc welder, you'd risk seriously deforming the diff housing. It's why I didn't even use my Lincoln MIG on it, and it's generally good for fine work.
Even the TIG welder had problems, hitting a brake line. If you get it done, it's worth removing the brake line, as it make it much easier. I decided to pay someone who is a pro to do it, rather than do it myself
You could possibly glue something over the hole, and thread into it, or such. I thought about it, but the risk was more than I wanted to take. The TIG fitting is bulletproof, pretty much. Stones can't dislodge it.