The ET Mod installation

[trouble]

Wow there is a smarter twin!

[jrs184]

Thanks for the detailed reply AOF. I'll get it warmed and go for a drive, then check out those values.
When you say wired in parallel, do you mean putting it across pins 1 & 2 of the air intake sensor (looking at the picture in your post on page 4 of this thread)? If I'm going to do that, seem like I may as well do the 2 x 12k as you still have to cut both wires, right?

That's correct 'oli78'. To use the single 6.8K resistor, 'wired in parallel' method, you need to cut both the B-L and Y-L wires ie, the ones going to pins one, and two, of the MAF Connector's Plug and then, solder the pigtail ends of your single, 6.8K resistor, onto the 'cut ends' of those two wires. Obviously, you solder the resistor onto the vehicle's 'wiring loom' side of the cut, -not- onto the 'MAF Connector' side of the cut wires... This method leaves the vehicle's original OEM AT1 Thermistor, housed inside of the MAF Sensor body, completely dis-connected ie, it plays no further part in the MAF Sensing circuit at all, with that job now having been taken over completely, by the new fixed value 6.8K 'parallel wired' resistor, which now provides simulation, of a constant, 0C degrees ambient air temperature back to the vehicle's ECU.
The only 'consideration' with using this method is that it provides no further, ongoing, 'dynamic' variable resistance feedback to the vehicle's ECU however, as previously mentioned by Koshari in his posts, he doesn't think that this will pose any problem for the ECU's coding ie, any possible detection by it, of a MAF 'fault condition' due to the now, constantly fixed, MAF AT1 resistance value. The only reason I personally chose the two 12K resistor network approach, was to 'err on the safe side' and allow -some- although much restrained, level of dynamic resistance to still be fedback, to the ECU.
Just be careful, before you attempt any of this work, make sure that the vehicle's Ignition switch is turned OFF. Wear only cotton or pure wool clothing -not- any 'synthetic' clothing ie, the type of stuff that easily generates static electricity, especially in dry, Winter low-humidity conditions.... Cut each wire, -seperately- and use a proper low wattage, earthed soldering iron, and resin cored solder, specifically designed for small electrical work and don't -cook- the little resistor by over-heating it.
Best idea is to strip 5mm of the plastic insulation off each of the ends of the B-L and Y-L wires and then pre-tin ie, pre-solder each of those bare wire ends first. Then, pre-tin the ends of each of the resistor's wire pigtails as well. If you hold the body of the little resistor between your fingers whilst you are actually doing this, you will very quickly learn to appreciate, just how fast it heats up with the soldering iron applied to it's wire pigtails. This pre-tinning, will make it a lot easier, and faster, to then solder the resistor onto the ends of the pre-tinned wires thus, reducing the risk of you accidently over-cooking it.
Also, be careful not to accidently touch, the newly bared, cut ends, of the B-L and Y-L wires together, or onto any of the vehicle's metalwork, during all of this work and once the resistor is successfully soldered in place, make sure that you fuly cover, -all- of it, in electrical insulation tape or, even better, if you can, use a suitable length of 'heat-shrink' insulation tubing to cover -all- of it, so that no part of it can ever accidently touch -anything- else.
Lastly, before you tape it all, back into the wiring loom, cover the now remaining two loose cut ends, of the wires on the MAF Connector's side of where you made the cut in the wiring loom, with a little insulation tape and then use something to provide additional 'strength' to physically re-inforce the little resistor, to prevent any future vibration and flexing stress from physically affecting it. Something very simple, like a 75mm cut length, of a 3mm diameter bamboo BBQ skewer ie, the type used for cooking shiskebabs would suffice for this job. Just lay it -alongside- of, the 'fully pre-insulated' length of the resistor and then tape it, or heat-shrink it, into place there to provide stiffening and support. Job done....

Hi, are the 12k resistors still .5 watt or a different value, so by reading this can you still use the 2 qty 6.8k resistors in place of the 12k ones. I just today bought the 6.8k pack. Thanks john

[jrs184]

Thanks for the detailed reply AOF. I'll get it warmed and go for a drive, then check out those values.
When you say wired in parallel, do you mean putting it across pins 1 & 2 of the air intake sensor (looking at the picture in your post on page 4 of this thread)? If I'm going to do that, seem like I may as well do the 2 x 12k as you still have to cut both wires, right?

That's correct 'oli78'. To use the single 6.8K resistor, 'wired in parallel' method, you need to cut both the B-L and Y-L wires ie, the ones going to pins one, and two, of the MAF Connector's Plug and then, solder the pigtail ends of your single, 6.8K resistor, onto the 'cut ends' of those two wires. Obviously, you solder the resistor onto the vehicle's 'wiring loom' side of the cut, -not- onto the 'MAF Connector' side of the cut wires... This method leaves the vehicle's original OEM AT1 Thermistor, housed inside of the MAF Sensor body, completely dis-connected ie, it plays no further part in the MAF Sensing circuit at all, with that job now having been taken over completely, by the new fixed value 6.8K 'parallel wired' resistor, which now provides simulation, of a constant, 0C degrees ambient air temperature back to the vehicle's ECU.
The only 'consideration' with using this method is that it provides no further, ongoing, 'dynamic' variable resistance feedback to the vehicle's ECU however, as previously mentioned by Koshari in his posts, he doesn't think that this will pose any problem for the ECU's coding ie, any possible detection by it, of a MAF 'fault condition' due to the now, constantly fixed, MAF AT1 resistance value. The only reason I personally chose the two 12K resistor network approach, was to 'err on the safe side' and allow -some- although much restrained, level of dynamic resistance to still be fedback, to the ECU.
Just be careful, before you attempt any of this work, make sure that the vehicle's Ignition switch is turned OFF. Wear only cotton or pure wool clothing -not- any 'synthetic' clothing ie, the type of stuff that easily generates static electricity, especially in dry, Winter low-humidity conditions.... Cut each wire, -seperately- and use a proper low wattage, earthed soldering iron, and resin cored solder, specifically designed for small electrical work and don't -cook- the little resistor by over-heating it.
Best idea is to strip 5mm of the plastic insulation off each of the ends of the B-L and Y-L wires and then pre-tin ie, pre-solder each of those bare wire ends first. Then, pre-tin the ends of each of the resistor's wire pigtails as well. If you hold the body of the little resistor between your fingers whilst you are actually doing this, you will very quickly learn to appreciate, just how fast it heats up with the soldering iron applied to it's wire pigtails. This pre-tinning, will make it a lot easier, and faster, to then solder the resistor onto the ends of the pre-tinned wires thus, reducing the risk of you accidently over-cooking it.
Also, be careful not to accidently touch, the newly bared, cut ends, of the B-L and Y-L wires together, or onto any of the vehicle's metalwork, during all of this work and once the resistor is successfully soldered in place, make sure that you fuly cover, -all- of it, in electrical insulation tape or, even better, if you can, use a suitable length of 'heat-shrink' insulation tubing to cover -all- of it, so that no part of it can ever accidently touch -anything- else.
Lastly, before you tape it all, back into the wiring loom, cover the now remaining two loose cut ends, of the wires on the MAF Connector's side of where you made the cut in the wiring loom, with a little insulation tape and then use something to provide additional 'strength' to physically re-inforce the little resistor, to prevent any future vibration and flexing stress from physically affecting it. Something very simple, like a 75mm cut length, of a 3mm diameter bamboo BBQ skewer ie, the type used for cooking shiskebabs would suffice for this job. Just lay it -alongside- of, the 'fully pre-insulated' length of the resistor and then tape it, or heat-shrink it, into place there to provide stiffening and support. Job done....

Hi, are the 12k resistors still .5 watt or a different value, so by reading this can you still use the 2 qty 6.8k resistors in place of the 12k ones. I just today bought the 6.8k pack. BTW if anyone needs 6.8's please let me know, I had to buy a bundle of them, Thanks john

[AnOldFart]

Thanks for the detailed reply AOF. I'll get it warmed and go for a drive, then check out those values.
When you say wired in parallel, do you mean putting it across pins 1 & 2 of the air intake sensor (looking at the picture in your post on page 4 of this thread)? If I'm going to do that, seem like I may as well do the 2 x 12k as you still have to cut both wires, right?

That's correct 'oli78'. To use the single 6.8K resistor, 'wired in parallel' method, you need to cut both the B-L and Y-L wires ie, the ones going to pins one, and two, of the MAF Connector's Plug and then, solder the pigtail ends of your single, 6.8K resistor, onto the 'cut ends' of those two wires. Obviously, you solder the resistor onto the vehicle's 'wiring loom' side of the cut, -not- onto the 'MAF Connector' side of the cut wires... This method leaves the vehicle's original OEM AT1 Thermistor, housed inside of the MAF Sensor body, completely dis-connected ie, it plays no further part in the MAF Sensing circuit at all, with that job now having been taken over completely, by the new fixed value 6.8K 'parallel wired' resistor, which now provides simulation, of a constant, 0C degrees ambient air temperature back to the vehicle's ECU.
etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, etc,

Hi, are the 12k resistors still .5 watt or a different value, so by reading this can you still use the 2 qty 6.8k resistors in place of the 12k ones. I just today bought the 6.8k pack. Thanks john

Hi 'jrs184'

OK, so let's try to be really --clear-- about this...!
If you are going to use the --'dual'-- 12K value resistor --version-- of this Mod, then you need to follow the --specific-- wiring instructions for --that-- version which appears earlier on page 4 of this ET Mod Installation thread. It doesn't really matter if you use the 0.25 (ie, 1/4) Watt rated resistors, or 0.5 (ie, 1/2) Watt rated resistors because, that figure only relates to how much power (heat) dissipation they can safely handle, and in this Mod, they will never get anywhere near, their maximum allowed power dissipation rating anyway. Basically either 0.25 or 0.5 'Wattage' (heat) rating will do the job, so just use whatever type is more easily available from your local Electronics shop.

Now, alternatively,

If you --instead-- want to use the --single-- 6.8K value resistor --version-- of this Mod, then you need to follow the --specific-- wiring insructions for --that-- version which I have described for the benefit of 'oli78' in the Post, that's directly above your own.

So, the bottom line is, if you are not completely 'comfortable' in your own abilities, to understand and safely work with Electronics and to 'safely' implement all of these instructions, then it might just be easier, for you to simply choose to buy one of Tony's pre-manufactured, plug and play, --variable-- versions of the ET Mod instead....

Cheers,
AOF

[GLX-RSilver]

So if i'm correct you solder a resistor in line with the B-L wire and just can and tape the Y-L leaving its separate?

[biggibbo]

Cut the blue/black wire, Solder the resistor in between, shrink wrap, retape seems simplest.

[GLX-RSilver]

Cut the blue/black wire, Solder the resistor in between, shrink wrap, retape seems simplest.

Yeah that's what I was thinking as I want to make it look factory so the dealer wont notice the mod.

[GLX-RSilver]

Whats the purpose of cutting the other wire?

[mitzikatzi]

Reread AOF posts above.

[GLX-RSilver]

Got it now I think. Using 12k resistors you do as per drawing on page 4.
Or with 6.8k you do as per drawing but keep the YL from the Air flow meter plug not connected?

[AnOldFart]

Got it now I think. Using 12k resistors you do as per drawing on page 4.
Or with 6.8k you do as per drawing but keep the YL from the Air flow meter plug not connected?

If you want to do --just-- the --single-- 6.8K resistor --version-- of the ET Mod 'GLX-RSilver' then you need to --cut--both-- the B-L (Black/Blue Stripe) --and-- the Y-L (Yellow/Blue Stripe) wires, and then solder your --single-- 6.8K resistor onto each of those cut wires.

That means, solder --one--end-- of your 6.8K resistor onto --the-- B-L wire and --then-- solder the --other--end-- of your 6.8K resistor onto --the-- Y-L wire.

So that what you then end up with, is the --single-- 6.8K resistor soldered --across-- the ends of those two cut wires, on the vehicle's -----wiring loom side----- of the initial --cut-- that you made --right--through -----both----- of those wires to start with.

That then leaves both the B-L and Y-L wires on the -----other----- side of that initial --cut-- ie, on the side that's closest to the actual MAF Connector, that's mounted on top of your air cleaner box, now --flapping in the breeze-- so to speak...!

Now, just cover --ALL-- of the --entire length-- of the resistor itself, and --any-- bared wires, with electrical insulation tape, and also, put a small piece of insulation tape over the two remaining --flapping in the breeze-- cut ends of the B-L and Y-L wires on the MAF Connector side as well.

Finally, wrap it all up neatly back into the original wiring loom.

Job done...!

[GLX-RSilver]

Got it now I think. Using 12k resistors you do as per drawing on page 4.
Or with 6.8k you do as per drawing but keep the YL from the Air flow meter plug not connected?

If you want to do --just-- the --single-- 6.8K resistor --version-- of the ET Mod 'GLX-RSilver' then you need to --cut--both-- the B-L (Black/Blue Stripe) --and-- the Y-L (Yellow/Blue Stripe) wires, and then solder your --single-- 6.8K resistor onto each of those cut wires.

That means, solder --one--end-- of your 6.8K resistor onto --the-- B-L wire and --then-- solder the --other--end-- of your 6.8K resistor onto --the-- Y-L wire.

So that what you then end up with, is the --single-- 6.8K resistor soldered --across-- the ends of those two cut wires, on the vehicle's -----wiring loom side----- of the initial --cut-- that you made --right--through -----both----- of those wires to start with.

That then leaves both the B-L and Y-L wires on the -----other----- side of that initial --cut-- ie, on the side that's closest to the actual MAF Connector, that's mounted on top of your air cleaner box, now --flapping in the breeze-- so to speak...!

Now, just cover --ALL-- of the --entire length-- of the resistor itself, and --any-- bared wires, with electrical insulation tape, and also, put a small piece of insulation tape over the two remaining --flapping in the breeze-- cut ends of the B-L and Y-L wires on the MAF Connector side as well.

Finally, wrap it all up neatly back into the original wiring loom.

Job done...!

Thanks for the advice.
Is the single resistor trick the best?
Cheers

[AnOldFart]

Got it now I think. Using 12k resistors you do as per drawing on page 4.
Or with 6.8k you do as per drawing but keep the YL from the Air flow meter plug not connected?

If you want to do --just-- the --single-- 6.8K resistor --version-- of the ET Mod 'GLX-RSilver' then you need to --cut--both-- the B-L (Black/Blue Stripe) --and-- the Y-L (Yellow/Blue Stripe) wires, and then solder your --single-- 6.8K resistor onto each of those cut wires. ................. etc, etc, etc, etc, etc, .................
Job done...!

Thanks for the advice.
Is the single resistor trick the best?
Cheers

It's the .....simplest.....!

[biggibbo]

I dunno, I cut 1 wire (blue/black) put the resistor in the middle and job done, not sure about all the other wires, and flapping and other crap

[GLX-RSilver]

I dunno, I cut 1 wire (blue/black) put the resistor in the middle and job done, not sure about all the other wires, and flapping and other crap

Yeah I saw the thread that puts the resistor on the BL wire.

[RHKTriton]

This is starting to drag out like the EGR blanking, where to put the plate, drill or not to drill, etc.

The simplest solution is usually the best; one resistor (to bias the reported temperature) with only one wire getting cut. With heat shrink over the resistor and retaping the bundle of wires it should be good for years.

[AnOldFart]

This is starting to drag out like the EGR blanking, where to put the plate, drill or not to drill, etc.
The simplest solution is usually the best; one resistor (to bias the reported temperature) with only one wire getting cut. With heat shrink over the resistor and retaping the bundle of wires it should be good for years.

You are exactly right 'RHK' ... Personally, I'm starting, to get the feeling that some folks on here seem to be wanting to drag the --simple-- instructions for performing this ET Mod, out into a new, 5 Volume, Gilt-Edged Set, version, of Tolstoy's 'War and Peace' ...!
It really is --not-- rocket science, and my own feeling is, that if folks --really--cannot--comprehend-- the --clear-- instructions that have --already-- been given multiple times, within this ET Mod Thread, on how to perform --all-- versions of the Mod, then they really are going to be far better off, to simply buy one of Tony's pre-manufactured -'variable'- resistor kits, (and a ScanGuage) and just be done with it.
The only thing that I would disagree about, with what you've just now said above, 'RHK' is that I would definitely recommend cutting --both-- the B-L and Y-L wires and connecting the 6.8K resistor --between-- them. That method, will avoid the --possibility-- of future CELs and Codes arising, from operating the vehicle across a very wide range of -ambient- temperature variations...! Otherwise, just doing the -'one resistor'- and -'one wire cut'- method --can-- lead to those problems occurring down the track....

[koshari]

Personally, I'm starting, to get the feeling that some folks on here seem to be wanting to drag the --simple-- instructions for performing this ET Mod, out into a new, 5 Volume, Gilt-Edged Set, version, of Tolstoy's 'War and Peace' ...!

it begins like this,

"Its was the best of mods . it was the worst of mods."

[aimstix]

Well.just wanted to post up here my happenings with the et mod amd egr blank. Had the engine light come on after three weeks of.the et mod and was running like a bag of poo. (Did the 2 resistor mod properly too) and took it to a highly recommended and independent auto sparky. Who's first question to me was if I had egr blanks in place before even hooking up his computer thingy. So got the engine light cleared and he told me that my car didn't like the egr blank. So went home and removed it only to have the engine light come back and continue to run like a bag of dicks. So tried a couple of the et mod combinations on here and still no good. So put everything back to stock and took it back. He mentioned to me that the tritons do respond well to these tricks and egr blanking techniques but some of them just hate them.. ha ha guess which one I have.. so back to stock for me with k & filter and snorkel still.getting 10.5l per 100. So due to the fact I have 228000 km up on it I am edging on the side of caution so I can get another 200000km out of her. But worked well.for the few.weeks I had the mod in. Good luck people and hope.u don't have my issues lol

[variflex]

Just out of interest aimstix, model do you have and what code did it throw? I'm thinking ML due to the k's but I could be wrong (it's happened once before) might be worth you fitting a oil catch can in the cv line to at least eliminate the oil mist mixing with the EGR to assist in reducing the chances of any carbon issues

[koshari]

Well.just wanted to post up here my happenings with the et mod amd egr blank. Had the engine light come on after three weeks of. 10.5l per 100.

What code did it throw?

[hvac guy]

Ive tried all three methods on the mn and they all work.

[biggibbo]

I've run Tonys set-up as well as the 0.5w 6k8 inline on mine and no CEL's with either in temps from +44 thru to -6 with no probs either

[RHKTriton]

Aimstix if you were running the blank for most of the vehicle's life the egr valve would still have been physically operating. After that amount of kms it is probably stuffed, and causing an alarm.

I just replaced the one in my son's Jack with one from the wreckers and its a different vehicle now.

Might be worth trying another one.

[koshari]

Aimstix if you were running the blank for most of the vehicle's life the egr valve would still have been physically operating. After that amount of kms it is probably stuffed, and causing an alarm.

I just replaced the one in my son's Jack with one from the wreckers and its a different vehicle now.

Might be worth trying another one.

before trying anything i would determine the code its throwing.