Dual Battery Wiring

[MadMick]

Hey mate, sorry about that, I forgot to add this site to the allowed list to see the images on my server, it should be fine now .

I have the V6 too and just moved my window squirter bottle to make room for the 2nd batt. Really got no need for a 3rd one but can see the advantage of having one there.

[Quinny]

Thanks Mick - Yep - I can see the diagram now ... I think it's a problem if you charge AGM type batteries from the alternator ... They don't like it too much - that's why I'm using a 12v - 12v charger for the AGM ...

[gauci204]

Watch out MM, i warned you about this site, you will be adding bling to your triton you didnt realise you needed in no time

[Quinny]

Ooops - Hvac beat me to it

[MadMick]

Hiya hvac guy,

I have noticed my batteries get hot occasionally, really only if I am crawling up and down hills on a property looking for pigs and stuff, but have never had a battery fail or die within 4 years. Maybe I have just been lucky with the batteries I buy .

I have replaced the alternator, but it was 8 or 9 years old and I didn't think that was an issue. I replaced it with an 80amp one, and again, never have any issues charging both my batteries. When I go away, I run camp lights and all sorts of stuff off the 2nd battery and its not gone flat yet. Granted I still use an esky and ice .

I am not trying to say my system is better or anything like that, its just a cheap alternative.

Due to different battery technology around now days
most deep cycle batteries do not like the heat and vibration
As well as larger capacities needed for bigger fridges and extended stays.

With the improved efficiency in charging for quick charge times and longer stable voltage life.
A special charger is needed to insure maximum efficiency and life of the battery.

As a car alternator cannot supply the correct charge voltage for complete charging.

The biggest problem with a solenoid is the maxim in rush of current, the biggest killa of the new style batteries.

[MadMick]

Thanks Mick - Yep - I can see the diagram now ... I think it's a problem if you charge AGM type batteries from the alternator ... They don't like it too much - that's why I'm using a 12v - 12v charger for the AGM ...

Have a sealed batt in there now, its 3 years old I think?. Will see how long it lasts .

[MadMick]

Watch out MM, i warned you about this site, you will be adding bling to your triton you didnt realise you needed in no time

Hehe, Gidday bloke .

Yeah lots of goodies listed on here, but have not spent any money yet

[gauci204]

Watch out MM, i warned you about this site, you will be adding bling to your triton you didnt realise you needed in no time

Hehe, Gidday bloke .

Yeah lots of goodies listed on here, but have not spent any money yet

give it a week or so

[hvac guy]

All good I wasn't reading it that way i was just addressing your curiosity in the thread.

a voltage sensitive relay is the best system for a pure lead acid non agm second battery.

[Calblitzen]

I would normally put a dual under the bonnet, however I have set aside that space for my shower system in the vehicle. Also if I can keep the engine bay heat away from the batteries all the better IMO. The Triton has so much room behind the back seat that it's such a great place for a battery. If a Landrover has a battery under the driver seat, it's good enough for my. The additional battery in the tray just gives me more amps.
I'm currently running a battery isolator and have been watching the batteries being charged at 14.1 to 14.2 volts. Each to their own.

[Quinny]

More bits & pieces ...

[Calblitzen]

I used the same fuse boxes, one in the cab and one in the tray. Great way to distribute power.

[Quinny]

Ok - so the next part of the process ...



I have this:





...and inside it, I have this 120 A/H AGM: (clicky )




...and on the back of the ARC box, I am thinking of doing this:





It's just a bit of a rough layout ... but ... let's go though it ...



Point A: from the picture above ...


This Anderson plug will connect to the cable I ran on the weekend.

See here:





Point B:

This Anderson plug will connect to the Solar Panel ... When I buy one



Point C:

This will be a hole (grommet etc) where I will run the +ve, -ve and temp sensor to the battery.



Point D:

Is the volt meter that was supplied with the 120 A/H battery ... and ...

Point E: is a hole where that cable will go back into the box to connect to the terminals inside...



My question are:

If the output of the Ctek is a maximum of 20 amps I figure I can do all the cabling (above) in 6mm2 ...

What do you think ? The runs are less than 200mm each - bugger all voltage drop ...


I'm thinking I will install a 40A cct breaker in here somewhere too:




Inside the box, I have about 10mm space around the battery - so I will pack that out with a bit of high density foam to stop the cables from getting crushed ...




Any ideas on how you connect the temperature sensor to the battery ?

As usual - comments respectfully accepted

[macca002]

Looks good. Only comment would be to possibly run liquid tight cable grommets into your tray.

These:

[viking shippy]

Hi Quiny look at the Ctech instructions for recommended cable sizing and you can silicone the temp sensor on the side of the battery say 50mm down from the positive terminal were battery's normaly get a bit warm.

[Quinny]

Thanks for the replies boys

Bought one of these cranky looking things



That should sort out the crimping side of things

[hvac guy]

Holy puck I just use mapp gas and solder

[Quinny]

40 Bucks on flea-bay ... Hopefully will do the job ...

[Mudme]

Where do you get the grommets from?

[viking shippy]

Where do you get the grommets from?

Electrical wholesale company like Laurence and Hansen ....
You can also sikaflex in a short piece of conduit to run cables through also

[viking shippy]

Thanks for the replies boys

Bought one of these cranky looking things



That should sort out the crimping side of things

Quint just a quick tip.. solder the ends of your cable before crimping it makes the joint last longer and withstands vibration better...personally I heat the crimp with a blow torch with the wire in place and solder the wire into place.no crimping ..this is how us in the marine game do it. it's the only way we in boating electrical jobs can hold back corrosion...we solder everthing..even small wires before crimping..

[Snooozy]

same here, I solder all terminals

[hvac guy]

x3

[Quinny]

Ok ... you got me thinking now ... maybe someone could step in here and do a brief how-to

I'm using 16mm2 cable for the purposes of this installation.

Being in the communications caper we never use anything that size unless it's off a battery bank / UPS arrangement. We get the contractors to do that part of the install, so I have no idea

A basic mechanical knowledge of soldering would tell me ... heat the exposed cable strands with a torch and tin the wires with solder - do we still use flux during the process ? - I guess an iron would not provide enough heat for said cable size.

Fit the lug and heat it to complete the termination ? - ... and then crimp it ?

I don't have a torch - can you buy a hand held torch fitting that would work with a gas bottle (like one of my camping bottles ?) My old man had one of those - but not sure if you can still get them ...

Thanks ...


Q

[Quinny]

Where do you get the grommets from?

Electrical wholesale company like Laurence and Hansen ....
You can also sikaflex in a short piece of conduit to run cables through also

Pretty sure jaycar sell them as well ...