Yep, thought so.
Ok, so battery positive is obvious.
The other red and the black going to the light bar are also obvious. However, as a comment, the practice of bringing the negative back from the light bar and joining to the earth side of the relay solenoid is potentially a bad one, with the risk of creating an earth loop or having current flow back through the solenoid. Cut the earth wire from the light bar where it joins at the base of the relay and take it direct to a sound body earth. The reason for this becomes obvious later.
The white wire is your switching cable. Connect this to the high beam wire at the back of the headlight. This will provide power for switching only when the high beam is on - thus legal.
Now, take the other black wire (the 10cm tail) and connect to a wire long enough to run inside the car to your switch.
Using the diagram from the Ebay seller that you provided:
switch.png
Connect your line, from the relay, to the point marked "12v input". Connect "12v output" to earth.
Connect the line marked "12v+" into something that is activated when dash lights are turned on. The light at the cigarette lighter is usually a good choice.
Connect "12v-" to earth.
Now, what should happen is that the top part of the switch will light up when your dash lights are on while the bottom part will light up when you turn the lightbar on.
One caveat. Sometimes these switches use a resistor to drop voltage for the LED so the LED will not always work when used in a negative switching application such as I described above. In that case you will need to connect from the back of the headlight and run a wire inside to the "12v input" and connect "12v output to the white wire coming from the relay. Then connect the black tail to earth. This is then positive switching - not ideal because it uses double the wiring but gets around the problem.
Test the first choice first and see if it works. If so, all good. If not, then go to the second option.
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