Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

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Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby Bammo on Sun Nov 12, 2017 3:36 pm

2010 MN Triton and had a few hiccups and surges of late. Dealer suggested I clean out the manifold, adjust the tappets and then he will do an injector relearn as the injectors were reading all over the shop.

So manifold is out and has been cleaned (wasn't too bad at all thanks to an EGR blanking plate in the early days. Now that I have it out (and all the wiring, EGR plumbing and windscreen wipers (!) necessary to access it) I can easily access the rocker cover but have no idea how to go about checking the tappet adjustment. The service manual doesn't mention tappets at all - I presume because it refers to them as valves?

Question for the brains trust is this: how big a deal are the tappets and their adjustment to the performance of the car? Is it worth leaving the manifold off and getting a mobile mechanic around to do the tappets now whilst its easy to get at them? Cars done 102K and never had them done before...
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Re: Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby aids84 on Sun Nov 12, 2017 4:12 pm

I probably would do 'em now. Just gotta take the fuel lines off for the injectors and remove the rocker cover. Set the inlets at 0.1mm and exhausts at 0.15mm. They're just a basic screw tappet setup so nothing too difficult and the feeler gauge goes between the cam lobe and the roller on the rocker arm.
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Re: Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby Bammo on Sun Nov 12, 2017 7:57 pm

aids84 - I found the procedure in the service manual.

http://faq.out-club.ru/download/l200_20 ... dex_M1.htm

It looks reasonably straight forward and I've got the right tools but the second half of the procedure looks a bit less obvious. From the manual:

11.Apply specified sealant to the section of the semi-circular packing shown in the illustration.
Specified sealant: 3M ATD Part No. 8660 or equivalent <---- not clear what the packing is for or where it is supposed to go?
...
17.After the ignition switch is in "LOCK" (OFF) position, connect the M.U.T.-III to the diagnosis connector.
18.Start the engine, and let it run at idle.
19.Select SPECIAL FUNCTION from the function menu.
20.Select FUEL LEAKAGE CHECK from SPECIAL FUNCTION menu to execute the test.

Hmmm... I don't have a MUTIII - how big a deal is this part I wonder? Also the manual says the inlet manifold gasket should be replaced - I was planning on just reusing the existing gasket - its steel and looks in good nick. Is that OK do you reckon?
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Re: Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby ag9111 on Mon Nov 13, 2017 5:15 am

Fuel leakage test is just the MUT111 pushing the fuel rail pressure up above normal and then holding it to check for leaks.
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Re: Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby Bammo on Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:50 am

Took the rocker cover off and adjusted the tappets tonight. One of the inlet valves on Cyl #1 was ridiculously tight - thinnest feeler gauge I have is 0.03mm and it wouldn't go in. One of the outlet valves on #4 was loose - 0.25mm instead of 0.14mm. Fixed them both, replaced all the oil seals and gaskets with a new kit and started reassembling the motor. Hopefully get that finished tomorrow and can see if this has made any difference!
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Re: Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby s13tsilvia on Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:32 pm

sweet, looks pretty straight forward in the pictures.. wonder why mitsubishi want to charge big bucks to adjust it??
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Re: Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby Bammo on Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:51 pm

s13tsilvia wrote:sweet, looks pretty straight forward in the pictures.. wonder why mitsubishi want to charge big bucks to adjust it??


Time. Takes several hours to disconnect everything to get the rocker cover off - the EGR system, the wiring harness, the inlet manifold, the timing belt cover, the fuel system and the windscreen wipers (!) all has to be removed. Plus all the oil seals and gaskets need to be replaced and that seals kit RRP's for about $175.
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Re: Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby Bammo on Fri Dec 01, 2017 3:49 pm

Update:

1000kms later and the Triton is like new. The death rattle noise from the engine has gone, power and torque are both back, the surging has disappeared and fuel economy has improved. Mechanic checked the injector values last night and all are back well within tolerance - no SQL relearn or fancy injector cleaning required.

So in my case, a thorough clean of the inlet manifold system, a complete clean out of the fuel system and fuel tank and adjusting the valve clearances seems to have breathed new life into the girl! Total cost was about $150 in new gaskets and seals and a few bruised knuckles as I figured out how to navigate around the engine.

In celebration of not needing a new set of injectors or a $2000 bill from the stealer for cleaning the engine I went and put a new set of sheepskin seatcovers and a dashboard mat from SCA where they are both on special. An hour on the lathe and I also have a new set of seat spacers. The new seat angles + the sheepskin covers are brilliant - like everyone else says, I cannot believe I waited so long to do this!!!
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Re: Got the manifold off - should I do the tappets?

Postby pb4x2 on Sat Dec 02, 2017 3:05 pm

Thanks Bammo and aids84 for your info on setting valve clearances.I own a 2011 MN and until I read your articles thought valve clearances were adjustable by using shims so you can imagine how glad i am to find out otherwise. A big part of why I bought the Triton was to do all the servicing including tappet adjustment myself so that when my 2012 Challenger warranty expires i will also service it.
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