Tech article - How to adjust the handbrake - ML dualcab

[subi_man]

How to adjust the handbrake - ML dualcab

Adjusting your handbrake is quite easy, and can be carried out as follows. It goes without saying that the vehicle should be parked on level ground, or chocked so it cannot roll away during the adjustment!

Open the lid of the centre console. With a cloth wrapped screwdriver, prise out the removable section which houses the rear window switch and power outlet.



Remove the wires from the switch and power outlet to enable access to the handbrake adjuster.


It's then a simple matter of adjusting the 10mm nut until you are happy with the tension of the handbrake. **Be careful not to overtighten the adjuster**

By removing the two screws from inside the bottom of the center console box, and pulling some clips at the front, you can completely remove the center console section to enable better access to the adjuster


Cheers!

[trytin]

Subi, good timing as doing mine this weekend. Thought this was raised sometime ago here been looking all week for the post because I could remember the adjustment was somewhere in the console. Its a pity the dealer's dont seem to be interested in adjusting these anymore when they do the service.

[tokirky]

good one subi, i was trying to sort out how to get (2nd batt) aux power into the cab to that aux plug and you solved it....
Might even look at the hand brake while i'm there...

[Diddy]

do u have to have the handbrake on or off for the adjustment subi?

[subi_man]

The handbrake should be off for the initial adjustment. I would tighten the nut a turn or so, and then test it out, and re-adjust if it needs more. Just be careful that you don't make the handbrake too tight

Hope that helps

[NowForThe5th]

It's a good idea to adjust your rear brake shoes before adjusting the handbrake. They're supposed to be self adjusting, but aren't really. Then adjust the handbrake so that you get 3-4 clicks without excessive force.

[Diddy]

maybe they need some grease on the adjusters cos i no with trucks if the auto slack adjusters dont get any grease the dont work at all

[MitsiGuy]

It's a good idea to adjust your rear brake shoes before adjusting the handbrake. They're supposed to be self adjusting, but aren't really. Then adjust the handbrake so that you get 3-4 clicks without excessive force.

This is a good point.. DON'T just adjust it at the handle.. Most of the time if you adjust the rear brake / wheels 99% of the time it will fix your handbrake adjustment. After you adjust your rear brakes if you need to fine tune the handle or take slack out of the handle or even loosen it adjust it at the handle.

The adjustment point for the rear brakes is in the backing plate. A little rubber grommet bout an inch long. Dont even need to remove the wheels to do it either

If you only adjust it at the handle then you will stretch your handbrake cables prematurely.

I work in a dealer and it even shits me when other techs don't adjust handbrakes.. I adjust them if needed. It only takes 10mins.

[subi_man]

Thanks 5th & Mitsuguy - I didn't know that

[johnnie5]

also when you have your rear brakes adjusted properly the vehicle also stops a hell of a lot better and loses the nose dive effect

[RHKTriton]

Good that someone got onto the brake shoe adjustment.

On my MB Vito the handbrake was nearly useless from day one. The dealer confirmed that they'd adjusted the brakes on several services and they never seemed any better. Then when I finally replaced the rear discs and pads, I found that the brakes had never been set from the factory and the dealer had only ever tightened the cable adjuster at the handle.

You should always start at the wheels - as the nut at the handle is really to compensate for the cable length/tolerance.

After a correct setting I could lock the rear wheels.

[subi_man]

Good that someone got onto the brake shoe adjustment.

On my MB Vito the handbrake was nearly useless from day one. The dealer confirmed that they'd adjusted the brakes on several services and they never seemed any better. Then when I finally replaced the rear discs and pads, I found that the brakes had never been set from the factory and the dealer had only ever tightened the cable adjuster at the handle.

You should always start at the wheels - as the nut at the handle is really to compensate for the cable length/tolerance.

After a correct setting I could lock the rear wheels.

Feel free to write a tech article on how to adjust the rear brake shoes on the Triton. I might work it out one day, but it would be better if someone who knew what they were doing stepped up to the plate

Cheers

[Cowboy Dave]

Now there's a good idea - I bought a brake adjusting tool yesterday in anticipation of just such a thing...

[Homer]

In the old days it was just a screwdriver through the peep hole to tighten/turn the sprocket/ratchet. Wouldn't have a clue these days..

[NowForThe5th]

Exactly the same, Homer. But now there's a special tool. Looks just like a screwdriver but bent shaft and no handle. Costs twice as much, though.

[Cowboy Dave]

only twice as much? where can I get one that cheap?

I figured room would be tight so a bent one would work better. Now all I need to know is which way to turn the stupid adjustment thing. Hmm, maybe I'll have to read that manual again...

[tassietriton]

After a good mud bathing I noticed that my brakes became very spongey and had increased pedal travel. The handbrake also needs a lot more lift to hold.
Rang Mrs Bitchey and was told that mud getting on to the drums wears the drums and/or increases the gap between the drum and the pad - thereby making the brakes less effective.
Quote is $100 to adjust.
Sound right?