Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[sierra]

Since being able to switch the throttle body valve to wide open i've got a couple of fuel consumption results.
Small improvement and early days but at least it's not worse.
The last 4 fill ups were,
8.15L/100km - pre mod
8.15 - pre mod
7.94 - used for about half a tank
7.92 - used for the full tank

Latest update.
7.66L/100km as posted last time.
7.68L/100km this fill up.

So compared with the average 8.1L/100km pre throttle body switch it's a 5%+ improvement for fuel economy as well as even better low down response. As they say on the MN fuel economy thread with 9-12L/100km
Happy with that.

[hvac guy]

Can we link up the egr open wire with the tb open wire and fit diodes to stop feed back has anyone got a wiring diagram for the mn

[antoo]

Can we link up the egr open wire with the tb open wire and fit diodes to stop feed back has anyone got a wiring diagram for the mn

I think the problem you will have with this is the sensors on the egr valve that will keep reading the actual EGR position and keep trying to move it, eventually throwing a CEL.

[har05l]

The 6mm hole won't really do much for economy, but it will stop the P0299 Turbo Underboost code from popping up. It's probably the most dangerous of the codes in the MN, because without an EGT gauge in a manual, it IS possible to melt the engine albeit very difficult.

I've had this code twice now , pi$$ing me off

[fraz91]

The 6mm hole won't really do much for economy, but it will stop the P0299 Turbo Underboost code from popping up. It's probably the most dangerous of the codes in the MN, because without an EGT gauge in a manual, it IS possible to melt the engine albeit very difficult.

I've had this code twice now , pi$$ing me off

That's alright, I'm now getting a new pair of codes every time I start the engine. Not getting the P0299 anymore though

P2413- EGR System Performance
P0403- EGR Control Circuit

There's not much info on the first one, but apparently the second one means my EGR System solenoid has packed it in. Not sure if I should tell Mitsubishi about it at the next service or not

[sierra]

That's alright, I'm now getting a new pair of codes every time I start the engine. Not getting the P0299 anymore though

P2413- EGR System Performance
P0403- EGR Control Circuit

There's not much info on the first one, but apparently the second one means my EGR System solenoid has packed it in. Not sure if I should tell Mitsubishi about it at the next service or not

They will get the CEL and codes when they start it up too.
If you let them fix it under warranty you can just unplug the throttle body to get what you have now or switch one of the solenoid wires so you can do it on the move without a code.
Depends how much you value the better response and economy if you are getting that too?

[viking shippy]

I got code p0106 what's that?

[sierra]

I got code p0106 what's that?

p0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Circuit Range/Performance Problem.

Low pressure reading in the MAP line caused by the EGR blank. Check the one way valve is still working if you fitted one and make sure it flows easily, with a light blow.

[viking shippy]

I got code p0106 what's that?

p0106 - Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Circuit Range/Performance Problem.

Low pressure reading in the MAP line caused by the EGR blank. Check the one way valve is still working if you fitted one and make sure it flows easily, with a light blow.

Thanks. Mate
haven't got round to it yet
Been pre ocupied with my lift kitt install
That's ok don't mind clearing it,
it doesn't happen very often anyways

[Froggy]

Does p0106 cause a cel or just limp mode?
Just tried a blank in mine and am getting limp modes with no light. (no boost, 0.0 l/100ks and range stops counting down)
Happens every time I decelerate at hwy seeds it seems.

[motoz]

Does p0106 cause a cel or just limp mode?
Just tried a blank in mine and am getting limp modes with no light. (no boost, 0.0 l/100ks and range stops counting down)
Happens every time I decelerate at hwy seeds it seems.

Where did you blank it ?

[Froggy]

Drivers side against firewall (ML)

[irwazza]

Froggy mine is the same. I have only ever thrown a cel once, it wasn't limpy though

[Froggy]

Should I try the one way valve to the map sensor?
I might have to just pull it out for now.
It's hard to know what to do without a scanguage!
Might have to spend some more money!

[odie602r]

I've got an MN but for $10 the one way valve mod is certainly worth trying, IMO. I've never had a cel or limp with one in. Seems like cheap insurance from my perspective...

[mad992]

Should I try the one way valve to the map sensor?
I might have to just pull it out for now.
It's hard to know what to do without a scanguage!
Might have to spend some more money!

6mm hole cured mine froggy maybe try that

[sierra]

Should I try the one way valve to the map sensor?
I might have to just pull it out for now.
It's hard to know what to do without a scanguage!
Might have to spend some more money!

6mm hole cured mine froggy maybe try that

I would take it out rather than putting a 6mm hole in it, there cant be much difference in the flow of exhaust or it would throw a code again.
Try the one way valve.

[Froggy]

Ok will do.
It's hard to figure out ML vs MN and weather anyone actually had success with finding a one way valve that works from this thread!
Maybe it's just because I'm on Tapatalk.

[furious]

INstalled blank, now to take it for a drive.


Only 49 minutes for someone with the mechanical aptitude on a oven mitt.

How tight do I do up the bolts? I only did them up to the point I felt them bite and it became hard to turn the socket set. Is that tight enough?

[sierra]

INstalled blank, now to take it for a drive.
Only 49 minutes for someone with the mechanical aptitude on a oven mitt.
How tight do I do up the bolts? I only did them up to the point I felt them bite and it became hard to turn the socket set. Is that tight enough?

You would be best off using a torque wrench but you should be safe enough by using smaller leaverage for the smaller sockets. Unless you're built like a mountain silver back you should be ok using a 200 -250mm bar on a socket to pull them up nice and tight. I needed an extension on that to undo mine. I can't recall anyone shearing one off?
Maybe use extensions on the socket to bring you out to clear space to use the smaller leaver. It's safer than trying to judge how much on a long tube extension which could shear them off.
If you're doing up a 10mm bolt with a 230mm bar just hold it midway instead of at the end and you half the effective torque and can do it up tight without risking busting it.
Just the experience after shearing off a few different sizes and dealing with the consequences makes you aware of how far to go but it's a very valid and important point to bring up.

You could put some oil on the threads to increase the feel as you do them up. Generally that is, so that the point they bite is crystal clear as is the torque you apply.

Gone on a bit there but I have a bit of a hangover from too much guiness last night.

[furious]

INstalled blank, now to take it for a drive.
Only 49 minutes for someone with the mechanical aptitude on a oven mitt.
How tight do I do up the bolts? I only did them up to the point I felt them bite and it became hard to turn the socket set. Is that tight enough?

You would be best off using a torque wrench but you should be safe enough by using smaller leaverage for the smaller sockets. Unless you're built like a mountain silver back you should be ok using a 200 -250mm bar on a socket to pull them up nice and tight. I needed an extension on that to undo mine. I can't recall anyone shearing one off?
Maybe use extensions on the socket to bring you out to clear space to use the smaller leaver. It's safer than trying to judge how much on a long tube extension which could shear them off.
If you're doing up a 10mm bolt with a 230mm bar just hold it midway instead of at the end and you half the effective torque and can do it up tight without risking busting it.
Just the experience after shearing off a few different sizes and dealing with the consequences makes you aware of how far to go but it's a very valid and important point to bring up.

You could put some oil on the threads to increase the feel as you do them up. Generally that is, so that the point they bite is crystal clear as is the torque you apply.

Gone on a bit there but I have a bit of a hangover from too much guiness last night.

Thanks. I will check them next weekend to see if they are loose.

[biggibbo]

Dont overtighten them, its a pain to get them undone if you need to pull the plate out at service time/codes etc.

Just nip them up till they are snug. Once they bite, 1/4 turn does it.

[furious]

Dont overtighten them, its a pain to get them undone if you need to pull the plate out at service time/codes etc.

Just nip them up till they are snug. Once they bite, 1/4 turn does it.

cool thanks that is all i did for that very reason.

[deermaster]

Been running mine with the blanking plate in and made it run better seemed to have more power down low, I also got an extra half a kilometer to the liter. Mine has been in for a couple of weeks now with no adverse effects.
I have been told by a very reliable source that there should be an 8mm hole in the blanking plate? not 6 or 10 or 1/8th it has to be 8mm This very knowledgable person/persons were quite adament about it. the reason I was asking was because of the long trips to NT and Cape York that I will be doing very soon and I was worried that it might start to throw codes or whatever along the way.
Just letting you know what I was told to do by two mechanics????
I am going to try it but if the fuel consumption goes back up I will have a spare blanking plate to put back in again.
Where I put mine was above the water trap above the manifold,( I think its called a water trap anyway,) before the gas runs over the back of the motor and into the inlet manifold.
It looks to me to be a better place where the pipe comes out down low before it gos into the water trap, but no mechanic so not sure?
I do have the new inlet manifold fitted it was done on warrantee which was good. The truck only has 45000ks on it.
I am so confused its not funny as I am being told different things by different people and don't know who to believe or take notice of.

[viking shippy]

Been running mine with the blanking plate in and made it run better seemed to have more power down low, I also got an extra half a kilometer to the liter. Mine has been in for a couple of weeks now with no adverse effects.
I have been told by a very reliable source that there should be an 8mm hole in the blanking plate? not 6 or 10 or 1/8th it has to be 8mm This very knowledgable person/persons were quite adament about it. the reason I was asking was because of the long trips to NT and Cape York that I will be doing very soon and I was worried that it might start to throw codes or whatever along the way.
Just letting you know what I was told to do by two mechanics????
I am going to try it but if the fuel consumption goes back up I will have a spare blanking plate to put back in again.
Where I put mine was above the water trap above the manifold,( I think its called a water trap anyway,) before the gas runs over the back of the motor and into the inlet manifold.
It looks to me to be a better place where the pipe comes out down low before it gos into the water trap, but no mechanic so not sure?
I do have the new inlet manifold fitted it was done on warrantee which was good. The truck only has 45000ks on it.
I am so confused its not funny as I am being told different things by different people and don't know who to believe or take notice of.

Leave it in and get a scan gauge to clear codes.
if you get a code you can post the code number to find its a...low presure in map the line.
you can put a valve inline to fix that... And Or read the info there and make up your own mind .there is a general consensus here ..I did this.. a blank down ne'er exhaust no hole.oil catch can and map sensor valve..scan gauge...no prob done and dusted..