ml cr fuel pump

[NowForThe5th]

Hey guys just wondering if anyone has or tips for or anything to be aware of when pulling out the cr feul pump besides the obvious pressure etc
any advice would be appreciated

[Tony]

Out of what engine as the 4M41 requires TC removal?

[jesse-t 9]

Yea the 4m41

[Tony]

If you've worked on a diesel before, same as most with timing gears only these pumps are not timed.

Just a rough idea whats involved with out going into detail. Allow two days if never done one before.




With 4M41, you need to remove radiator, fuel lines, manifolds, rocker cover (To remove top TC bolts), undo front end of sump (TC with slip out and use a sealant on reassembly), harmonic balance etc.
The pump is fitted with a gear over a key-way shaft. Cant remember size of nut, but loosen then tap with a soft drift so gear comes away. Rest is pretty obvious including water pipes etc. Be careful of sensors on TC, there will the two. Whilst in there, replace timing chain guides.

If you have any problems, report back and we can talk you through it. Looks a daunting task but not so bad once in there.

[RHKTriton]

Hi Jesse. So what's led to this fun job?

[jesse-t 9]

Long story and quite a few hours shorter lol bottom bolt on the suction control valve was partially stripped when i got to now despite my best efforts completely done in and there isnt enough room down there to have a decent crack at it so just weighing up my options for getting it out
hopeing some has some handy ideas

[jesse-t 9]

I knew it would be a decent job to get but a little more involve then i thought just for a stripped bolt
any other ideas guys
ive tried hammering a torque bit in but not really enough room to get a decent swing at it

[Tony]

Get us a photo as I'm always up to a challenge like this. We may find a way, pulling the pump on the 4M41 is no smallish task over a bolt.

[Cowboy Dave]

Dremel a slot for a flat blade screw driver?

I thought they had an Allen key type head on them?

[jesse-t 9]

Yea mate the do have an allen key head and they are that tight i thought inwas going to break the allen key on the top one

[RHKTriton]

Jesse, you could try glue an Allen key into the bolt with epoxy, may give more grip.

Another trick might be to get a suitable steel tube that is just too tight to fit over the bolt head. Heat the end red hot, tap it on and let it cool. May create a suitable friction grip you can work with.

Also' which direction are you attacking it from? I seem to recall that you can see the SVC from under the mudguard.

Pulling the wheel off may allow better access. I'd try everything before pulling the motor bits apart.

[Cowboy Dave]

So what has stripped, the hex socket itself? A shame if it has. I've got some nice long sidchrome Allen keys that are perfect for getting extra leverage on something like that. I'd be also maybe hitting it with some of that loctite freeze and release stuff. You might crack the seal in the thread just enough to make it easier to turn.

[RHKTriton]

Gee CD, the rumours are gaining substance....do you actually live in a warehouse?

[fraz91]

Gee CD, the rumours are gaining substance....do you actually live in a warehouse?

Nope, he just drives it around

[borngeek]

Gee CD, the rumours are gaining substance....do you actually live in a warehouse?

Nope, he just drives it around

gold

[coughy]

get a socket allen key that is of different size (ie i think it is metric 5mm so get the imperial 13/64) and smack it in there also hit the head of the bolt as hard as you can with the hammer then try and tighten it up first then hit it again then try to undo it.
as the imperial 13/64 is 5.1594mm compared to 5mm allen key little bit bigger so it will bite in
but the trick is to smack it with the hammer and i mean smack it
i do this kind of stuff at work every day removing bolts like this.
are you using the allen keys or the socket head keys. make sure there brand new so the corners are still on the hex

[jesse-t 9]

[jesse-t 9]

[jesse-t 9]

[URL=http://s1119.photobucket.com

[jesse-t 9]

[jesse-t 9]

Had another crack today with some of the suggestions except epoxy about to head to bunnings
an old bloke told me to a tac weld the allen key any merit in that suggestion do you reckon

Tried to upload some pics but off my mobile so not sure if they worked

[Bigbirdalx]

Nah no pics yet. Admin will sort it soon no doubt

[AnOldFart]

Had another crack today with some of the suggestions except epoxy about to head to bunnings
an old bloke told me to a tac weld the allen key any merit in that suggestion do you reckon

I think I would leave that tack weld suggestion until, when all else has failed, simply because it is sure to -either- fix it, or totally f*#< it....

[RHKTriton]

Jesse, would you put the bare end of a live extension cord on your nuts???

You're working around one of the most critical bits on the engine - much care needed here.

Another thought, you can get easy out for screws but I'm sure I've seen a device a few months back that works in a similar fashion but grabs over the bolt head or screw.

You could also look for penetrating oils specifically formulated to unsieze bolts in aluminium.

Painful, but patience will end in the best outcome.

[Cowboy Dave]

Did you hit it with the freeze and release yet?

I've seen tools designed to grab a rounded nut but these are round to start with so not sure if they're going to help.

If you're going to weld, tack weld a nut on the end of it so you can get a socket on it. If you weld a piece of bar to it you're only going to get half a turn out of it before it hits the motor anyway.

This may sound dumb, but have you tried it with the engine hot? If it's warm enough it might loosen its hold on the bolt.