Carbon Build Up, EGR Blank, Catch Can Information

[hvac guy]

Pull off the egr motor and see if carbon is stopping the valve from seating correctly, it could be as simple as that or not. Lol

[Mashine13]

I have done that about 5000ks ago and it was pretty much jammed, got it working freely. Do you reckon it'd be worth playing around with resistors in trying to kill that engine light? Don't really feel like getting a new egr if it's just going to sit there doing nothing like the faulty one that's there already. Like I said it'll be fine for a few drives then just comes on every now and then. Sometimes clears itself aswell after a few starts.

[hvac guy]

A member has one for sale for 150 bucks

[hvac guy]

viewtopic.php?f=30&t=15780#p394907. have a look here

[koshari]

I have done that about 5000ks ago and it was pretty much jammed, got it working freely. Do you reckon it'd be worth playing around with resistors in trying to kill that engine light?

I dont think its moving from demand so the resistor mod is irrelevant if its not getting demand at present. leave the 6k8 if its working.

Don't really feel like getting a new egr if it's just going to sit there doing nothing like the faulty one that's there already.

dont blame you, there hideously expensive for a little motor with an inductive sensor on the end. and you cant just buy the motor either as you have to buy the whole valve .

Like I said it'll be fine for a few drives then just comes on every now and then.

I reckon the feedback mechanism is moving ever so slightly occasionally throwing the codes.

[Mashine13]

Righto so being a bit of a newbie here I think I've missed a few posts, especially the one about Tony actually selling a plug and play unit. So now looking like a bit of a knob, I might just look at getting the plug and play unit. Thanks

[koshari]

Righto so being a bit of a newbie here I think I've missed a few posts, especially the one about Tony actually selling a plug and play unit. So now looking like a bit of a knob, I might just look at getting the plug and play unit. Thanks

Make your own plug and play unit for about 85 cents.
take a 6k8 resistor, place a male bullet on one end and a female on the other,
then place a male and female bullet in the black wire to your MAF sensor somewhere down the cable run underneath the black wrapping,

to have the hack in situ unplug the bullet connectors and place the resistor in series, pretty basic stuff.

to remove unwrap the black plastic and take the resistor out and join the black wires again.

[Cowboy Dave]

Out of interest Koshari, how many Tritons have you tested this on so far?

2.5s and 3.2s I assume?

[hvac guy]

Also where does 6k ohms come from i can understand if wired parallel with the sensor out of the loop but in series it would make the sensor read way too low when the ambiet temps drops i worked it out to be about 4k ohms when i look at the fixed resistor route. when using the temp/ohms graph.

dont know why i didnt think of this earlier as i use do this on a/c sensors as a night setback on server rooms.

just went over the graph and have edited the values.

[Cowboy Dave]

Yeah well 6k is incorrect but who am I to say. Just because it works on one vehicle in one climate at that figure doesn't mean it will work as well for others.

[koshari]

Out of interest Koshari, how many Tritons have you tested this on so far?

2.5s and 3.2s I assume?

just my 3.2.

i have no experiance on 2.5s and have never suggested this mod on a 2.5.

the 6k8 value i chose because running in series with the thermistor will at the temperature ranges around me give even on the hottest day a reading of zero. hardly mission critical, if it dont throw P0112 or P0113 CELs your in the ballpark.
additionally i used a resistance substitution wheel and a couple of clicks up i saw the EGR open in. not a great range of resistances on them.

i connected it up in series on the negative leg of the thermister cct so as any shorting of the resistor will in effect cause the thermistor to read normally as the resistance acts in a pll down manner and the other halv of the voltage divider is at the voltage source.

sure i could have bypassed the thermistor altogether, but the single wire hack i considered the easiest.

[koshari]

dont know why i didnt think of this earlier as i use do this on a/c sensors as a night setback on server rooms.

your telling me, would have saved me a lot of money getting my manifolds cleaned and replacing the EGR valve that wore the drive gear out, not to mention the limpys that the car has thrown in the meantime driving be crazy.

[srb]

The resistance needed can vary from one Triton to another. Some need as little as 1.6k and some need over 3k or more. It could go very wrong if you use too much resistance. My advice is to contact Tony to purchase one of his precision modules. He has a great little kit that is very reliable and is perfect for any Triton. It's also worth mentioning that Tony has put a lot of work into development with Triton engines and knows them better than anyone period!

[hvac guy]

Someone say intake sensor 1 out of range error. Lol

[AnOldFart]

How much -commission- has Tony got you on 'srb' ...???

[Cowboy Dave]

The thing is that SRB was one of the test pilots. Being a sparky himself didn't hurt the project any. So he knows better than most the extent to which people's random attempts mentioned in this and other threads are off the mark. Yes it would be good to see Tony make some money back for his time and effort (god knows farming isn't doing it for him much at the moment) but equally it would not be great if everyone ran around getting it wrong because one or two people got close-ish, or at least a solution that worked on their trucks in the present climate at their location, and then everyone copied them and came unstuck. Also I gather Tony is re-inforcing the resistors and connections somehow so they don't give up the ghost under constant vibrations and stuff. The ones I see lying loose in Jaycar always seemed a bit flimsy to me. Okay on a PCB maybe but not sure about what people are doing with them here.

[srb]

How much -commission- has Tony got you on 'srb' ...???

As Dave said, I know what has been involved in the development of that egr mod.
Apart from gaining the knowledge, I have nothing to gain from this.
The information on this forum is more than enough for me, that's why It's annoying to see the wrong information spread about any particular modification. I thought its better to point people to the bloke that came up with the idea and has tested it properly.
Not rocket science but it's best to point people to the SAFE option when posting on a public forum ok.

[snowman]

How much -commission- has Tony got you on 'srb' ...???

Probably the same amount that Castrol pay you for the 2T plugs

and the Dinosaurs, i am sure he is giving the Dinosaurs a cut as well.

[koshari]

I thought its better to point people to the bloke that came up with the idea and has tested it properly.
Not rocket science but it's best to point people to the SAFE option when posting on a public forum ok.

which would be Wright1275?
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4813&p=326272#p326272

I would consider 120,000km sufficient testing?

Also I gather Tony is re-inforcing the resistors and connections somehow so they don't give up the ghost under constant vibrations and stuff

I placed mastic lined raychem heatshrink over it after doubling the tails and roll crimping them, then placed spywrap over the crimp/joined section.

[koshari]

How much -commission- has Tony got you on 'srb' ...???

Probably the same amount that Castrol pay you for the 2T plugs

i really gotta get me an agent to plug, the old kickback jar in this neck of the woods is looking pretty ordinary

[Cowboy Dave]

I would consider 120,000km sufficient testing?

Also I gather Tony is re-inforcing the resistors and connections somehow so they don't give up the ghost under constant vibrations and stuff

I placed mastic lined raychem heatshrink over it after doubling the tails and roll crimping them, then placed spywrap over the crimp/joined section.

Well that's good on the re-inforcing but anyone reading the previous posts wouldn't have known to do that. All of a sudden that 80 cent comment is sounding less and less realistic. Sounds like a fair bit of labour in it too.

The 120,000km comment is a bit silly though don't you think? You were the one going on about anecdotal stuff the other day weren't you? In fairly harsh terms as I recall it? This is a pretty stark example of it. It has worked on your truck for that long where you drove it in the temperatures that you experienced at those times. I think that's what you've proved. Would you honestly be happy for every random tom, dick and harry on the forum to start splicing these resistors in because it worked for you?

The resistor you're using is the wrong one (in the sense that there are better resistance values that achieve the same result with less lying to the ECU or whatever receives the temperature signal), you're shooting for too low a temperature, and the MN and MLs take a different resistor to make them work optimally. I'm sure there are other differences that make this solution less than optimal but you'd never work it out because you only have the one vehicle to test on and you're happy with what you've done so you won't be back near a drawing board any time soon.

I mean all credit to you for working part of it out and for taking the risk, that's far more brain power than I'll ever have to apply to that sort of task but I think it's plain nuts to suggest everyone should follow suit.

None of us make any secret that Tony is a mate or whatever but this isn't some scare campaign to drum up business for him. We're not talking sheep station money - I'd be charging 3 times as much for sitting there snipping little wires and crimping stuff on and mixing whatever the resin or epoxy or whatever it is up and measuring the resistance values etc and printing out all the little colour instructions and then taking the half hour drive to the nearest post office a couple of times a week. Actually now that I've spelled all that out I don't think I would do it at all, I would spit the dummy and walk.

But seriously, I am honestly concerned that people will use your instructions and do damage to their vehicles or cause other faults which they'll then be back here looking to diagnose with no real idea of what they've done with the mod. Now we've left the information up because there should be a free exchange of ideas and people should be happy to share knowledge etc within reason but sometimes you need a couple of caveats and that's all that has happened here. Same as the occasional reminder that EGR blanks are illegal as are oversized tyres and so on.

[koshari]

Dave i happen to agree with you with regard to any tom dick and harry taking to their cars with little knowledge. as i have previously stated i havnt any experience/dont care for the 2.5 MN engine, I don't own one and are unlikely to ever buy one. I explained the rationale in choosing the value i ultimately went with and others researching/considering the mod themselves can make their own determinations.

i can appreciate tony is a friend of yours and personally i dont have any issues with him, he seems a pretty nice bloke and he even went out of his way and offered me a cheap map sensor when mine died as he had a spare which i only declined as at the time as my car was in lease.

like SRB i also happen to be an electrician and have a diploma in electronics so this sort of thing i can say iam reasonably comfortable with. and true that i are unlikely to revisit the issue with regard to my truck as it just works. in the future i personally would prefer to put a bit of time into the canbus interface to the RV unit.

true i was prolly a little over the top with my response to the diesal thead, but thats another issue and iam sure there would be many other issues we feel differently about.

[Jayden sempf]

Where do you put the blanking plate?

[NowForThe5th]

Jayden, might I suggest that you do a little reading first? Start with this thread and then the Forum Directory which is here.

Blanking plate technology has really been superceded. I put mine in the bin.

[koshari]

NFT5TH is on the money,

if you have a ML3.2 I suggest you read the ET mod thread

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15856