Carbon Build Up, EGR Blank, Catch Can Information

[hxshagginwagon]

Hi guys

Thought I would post a few pics of my provent setup on my ML.

The provent is working a treat and is filtering plenty of oil from crank case gases.

Can someone tell me the best place to purchase new filters?
Has anyone tried the aftermarket provent filters which you can find for around $20 less than genuine?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/of7jxoqwv8tdw ... 155742.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m9j8hihd96vp4 ... 155803.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/stm1jep0bbboh ... 155821.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9iy5vrpx0nc3p ... 155832.jpg

[jrs184]

Just did this mod tonight, soldered a 0.5watt 6k8 resistor and still a p2413 code. Worked for one 5 min drive then next time I started it, engine light stayed on. So is this adjustable one that's mentioned above just like a variable resistor where you change the resistance until you find a level that works? Or do I need a different wattage resistor?

Do you have an obdii dongle?

Hi, I have just bought a 2006 Triton glxr,(105,000Kkm) just had cleaned EGR, running well at present, but I have ordered catchcan which I will apply soon as it arrives and want to do the mod that Tony supplies asap to prevent my new/old car hitting the scrap heap due to the coking problem I have just discovered. How do I go about contacting Tony to purchase his nice mod to obviate this problem. Thanks and regards John.

[Joel]

Hi John you can contact Tony via pm his user name is Tony

[snowman]

Hi John you can contact Tony via pm his user name is Tony

or better still try:

tony@spvindustries.com

[jrs184]

Hi John you can contact Tony via pm his user name is Tony

or better still try:

tony@spvindustries.com

Thanks Joel, will try for the part, regards John

[jrs184]

Hi guys

Thought I would post a few pics of my provent setup on my ML.

The provent is working a treat and is filtering plenty of oil from crank case gases.

Can someone tell me the best place to purchase new filters?
Has anyone tried the aftermarket provent filters which you can find for around $20 less than genuine?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/of7jxoqwv8tdw ... 155742.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/m9j8hihd96vp4 ... 155803.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/stm1jep0bbboh ... 155821.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9iy5vrpx0nc3p ... 155832.jpg

Hi what did you use as a reducer for connecting those 2 diff diameters, Thanks John

[AnOldFart]

Hi what did you use as a reducer for connecting those 2 diff diameters, Thanks John

To 'reduce' and 'connect' the two different diameter hoses, I used two 110mm cut lengths of SAE-100 R6 hose which I bought from my local En-Zed Hose shop, to connect onto the in/out nipples of the CatchCan. This hose has a 25mm ID which is a snug fit onto the Can's nipples. I then used a couple of 1.5M lengths of oilproof hose, quote: "Outback Australia Transmission Cooler and Power Steering Return Hose to SAE-J189 16mm (5/8") ID W/P 330 PSI". This hose has an OD of 22mm which means it's a loose fit inside of the 25mm ID SAE-100 R6 hose. To take up the other 3mm ID/OD size difference between the two hoses I used two 'layers' ie, one piece placed over the top of the other, of 25mm diameter 'heatshrink' tubing, cut into two 100mm lengths and with each layer separately 'shrunk' into place, on the end of the smaller diameter hose, so that it would become a more 'snug fit' when fitted inside of the larger SAE-100 R6 hose. I bought the 25mm heatshrink from my local J-R Turk Electrical Supplies store. I then smeared a thin layer of a silastic sealer 'goop' (that's a Technical term by the way )over the outside of the top layer of the 'shrunken' tubing, and slid it inside of the larger hose, to about 40mm depth, then I smeared more silastic sealer 'goop' all over the outsides of the two different size hoses at the 'joint' but just covering that area on them both, that would be fully covered by the final, larger 40mm diameter 'heatshrink' tubing, which was supplied in the CatchCan kit. I then used a hot-air gun to shrink that tubing down, to a final 'tight fit' over the 'goop' smeared joint between both different sized hoses, and finally used a couple of nylon Zip-Ties to keep it all firmly in place, whilst I then set the assembled hoses aside on a flat surface for 24 hours, to allow the silastic 'goop' to set hard. Then it was just a matter of removing the original Triton breather hose between the Tappet Cover and the PCV Valve on the Turbo inlet hose and connecting the two new 16mm ID hoses in it's place. A 'tip' to help get the new SAE-J189 hoses which are pretty 'inflexible' ie, not easily stretched, over, the nipples of the Tappet Cover and the PCV Valve is to smear some "liquid dishwashing soap" just inside of the hose ends and it will help them slip onto the nipples more easily. Here's some photos of my own CatchCan setup.

P103.JPG

P104.JPG

P105.JPG

[Cowboy Dave]

You can buy a silicon reducer and then use a straight hose joiner. I used brass joiners on mine. The silicon reducers I bought on eBay from the UK. Took about a week to turn up.

[jrs184]

You can buy a silicon reducer and then use a straight hose joiner. I used brass joiners on mine. The silicon reducers I bought on eBay from the UK. Took about a week to turn up.

Thanks for your effort put to answering my question, love the detail and tips, Regards, new triton owner, hopefully long time...John

[Cowboy Dave]

Something like this I think it was mate: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25mm-16mm-Silicone-Straight-Reducer-Hose-Silicon-Blue-/290379592710?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item439bf8f406&_uhb=1 only in black rather than blue.

And I don't remember forking out that much for postage.

I may even still have them lying around somewhere. Unless I threw them out which is possibly the more likely scenario. I'll try and have a rummage around tonight and if they turn up I'll let you know and you can have them.

[GLX-RSilver]

Just wondering if someone could post a Pic of the EGR on a MN triton so I can block it off?
Its different to the 3.2lt ML so i'm not sure what to block off.

[NowForThe5th]

First post of this thread.

[GLX-RSilver]

I'm confused what does the EGR have to do with the crank case to turbo intake??
Why was my post dragged into this post??
I just want a pic of the EGR block off on a 2.5lt not a catch can.
Is there a block off for the EGR like on the 3.2?
Or does the crankcase breather cause the carbon build up problem??

[snowman]

I'm confused what does the EGR have to do with the crank case to turbo intake??
Why was my post dragged into this post??
I just want a pic of the EGR block off on a 2.5lt not a catch can.
Is there a block off for the EGR like on the 3.2?
Or does the crankcase breather cause the carbon build up problem??

Silver,

the blanking plate has been superseded by an electrical mod. Search 'ET installation mod'.

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15856&hilit=et+installation&start=200

you can do the electronics yourself or purchase a pre-made one from 'Tony' who is a member on here.

and welcome back.

[biggibbo]

Hi Ho Silver

As 5th said, the first post of this thread has the location and picture if you want to use a blank, that's why it was moved to this thread

[GLX-RSilver]

Snowman who is tony? I wouldn't mind just getting one of his?

[Cowboy Dave]

Tony is just tony. Pm that username or search spvindustries for a direct email

[snowman]

Snowman who is tony? I wouldn't mind just getting one of his?

PM sent.

[Cowboy Dave]

And just egr would be fine on its own but the crankcase breather adds a nice oily mist which glugs up with egr carbon to make black sludge on the inside of your intake manifold.

[BusterMan2388]

I have a 2014 mn triton with 6,000km on it. I wanna block the Egr I've been reading and reading.. But where exactly is the best spot to block it? Before the cooler, after the cooler? Or before the valve it after the valve? And is it gonna most likely throw a light? If so will it clear if I remove the block?

Cheers

[mitzikatzi]

I have a 2014 mn triton with 6,000km on it. I wanna block the Egr I've been reading and reading.. But where exactly is the best spot to block it? Before the cooler, after the cooler? Or before the valve it after the valve? And is it gonna most likely throw a light? If so will it clear if I remove the block?

Cheers

Did you read viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4813

Blanking plates are not the forum preferred option. A "resistor" Mod is the preferred method. The "Tony" mod is the easiest if you are not good with electrics.

[AnOldFart]

I have a 2014 mn triton with 6,000km on it. I wanna block the Egr I've been reading and reading.. But where exactly is the best spot to block it? Before the cooler, after the cooler? Or before the valve it after the valve? And is it gonna most likely throw a light? If so will it clear if I remove the block?
Cheers

Forget all about trying to use physical EGR blanking plates 'Buster'....! The EGR Valve itself, can be kept permanently closed, with a very simple Electronic Mod.... Read this viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15856
Unless you -really- enjoy, reading Mills & Boone Drama Novels though, do yourself a big favour, and just start reading the Thread from page 3 onwards... If you haven't personally got a clue about -safely- working with Electronics though, then you might just be far better off, by simply buying one of Tony's, pre-manufactured "variable-resistor kit" versions, of the ET Mod....

[macca002]

Personally I prefer to run the plate. Costs about $2 and doesn't require any cutting of the factory loom.

[Belbrook]

With the ET mod you have the advantage of the throttle plate staying open. This gives better economy in most cases

[macca002]

With the ET mod you have the advantage of the throttle plate staying open. This gives better economy in most cases

How much economy? 1lt saving over 1000lt's? If so, its not worth me hacking into the factory loom. I would consider doing it if I ended up with a check light.