Carbon Build Up, EGR Blank, Catch Can Information

[jappi]

Thanks guys - I'm only on 33,000 km and this issue happens on warm and cold engine conditions. Its just as described above on very light throttle right around 1200RPM...nowhere else. Thanks again for your help and will see what the dealer has to say this arvo when the car comes back.

[Cowboy Dave]

Did you get the fuel filter replaced at 30,000 with the service? One thing they sometimes try is to tweak the pins that go into the plug on your MAF sensor which is the plug on top of the air tube running from the airbox towards the turbo - I added some dielectric grease to mine to be sure they were all getting a decent contact.

[camb]

mine's done it from new....part throttle, light load.... I just adjust my right foot a bit and it 's gone...no I'm not taking the piss...just think it has something to do with the vgt turbo, and programing of the ecu.. it is not ideal, but if it has done it from new, perhaps it is just the way it is???

cam

[jappi]

Not sure if the fuel filter was done or if that's an expected part of that interval or not. Bought it just after the service. Dealer still can't reproduce it so spent a day without the car for nothing..... Its obviously not logging an error when it happens so they are still scratching their useless heads.
Checked the MAF sensor and it was pretty clean. Cleaned it anyway but no real noticeable difference.

Cam - not sure how long its been going on. I bought it at 27,000K and its been going on since I got it. It can't be right....its a pretty bad stutter when it happens, on mine anyway.

Doing my head in!

[AnOldFart]

I wouldn't think it would be related to a blocked fuel filter if it's only happening at light throttle positions and 1200 revs. That would be far more likely to affect WOT driving ie, high revs where fuel flow restriction at the higher flow demand rates would be more understandable.
Could it possibly be a 'sticky' SCV (suction control valve)...? Perhaps you should try adding a single 300ml dose of "FC rated" 2T ie, 2-Stroke mineral oil, to your next fuel tank fill up. It provides extra 'lubrication' to the fuel pump and SCV fuel circuit, both of which, can be adversely affected by the low 'lubricity' ie, low sulphur type diesel fuel sold here in OZ. One tankfull's dose should prove something for you, if it is indeed being caused by a sticky SCV.

[DocBassett]

Just commenting here so I can read this later and find it easily on my phone

[DocBassett]

So old fart, 2 stroke oil to the diesel tank to see if it is a SCV issue possibly? I'd be keen to try this.

[AnOldFart]

So old fart, 2 stroke oil to the diesel tank to see if it is a SCV issue possibly? I'd be keen to try this.

I've been doin it myself Doc for the past few tank fills, just to see if it works, as well as -LOTS- of folks say it does.
There is -LOTS- of positive info, regarding adding 'mineral oil based & FC rated' 2T to diesel, at a 200:1 ratio on -LOTS- of diesel forums, not just here on NewTriton. I've got to say that my own observations so far, are, that it does indeed, quieten down the 'diesel rattle' on cold startup, and old 'Bessie' does indeed seem to be a much 'happier' and more 'nicely behaved' old girl, since I've been givin her a 'little sip' of it with each new tankfull of dinosaur jooce. I don't quite know now, just which one to credit, with eliminating the 'pita' low revs / cold donk / stutter - miss on light throttle positions that I did have happening in my old girl ie, was it cleaning the MAF sensor or, adding the 300ml dose of 2T to each new tankfull of dino jooce. Perhaps it was a combo of both...? Either way, she's purrin sweetly like a little kitten for me these days, and so I'm a happy Old Fart.

[DocBassett]

Cheers, I'll have to look into it and figure out what to use

[AnOldFart]

Cheers, I'll have to look into it and figure out what to use

Simplest option Doc, is 'Castrol 2T' available from soupycheep . It's FC rated and mineral oil based which are the two 'criteria' mentioned as being 'important' by those who know about such 'magical' things.

[DocBassett]

Thanks mate.

[snakesoup]

its proly worthwhile to link wright1275s (kodos to him from me) post where he uses a resistor in the MAF sensor cct,
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4813&p=326272#p326272

I placed a 6k8 resistor in the ground return cable, (black/blue one on the 1st of the 5 pins on the MAF connector) add to the MAFs thermistor resistance so it always reads below 0 degrees and therefore the EGR never gets a command to open.

the resistor needs to be in place to ensure P0112 or P0113 CELs dont generate.

As the EGR will never open you dont even need the blank in place.

great solution for the ML where blanks can throw limpys.

It also saves the EGR drive gear from wearing out (costly) from continuousness operating and causing EGR feedback CELs (P2413).

so is it literally as simple as cut and shutting the 6k8 resister into the black and blue wire from the maf and that's it?? does it have to be a certain way around? or is that basically how it goes?any advice would be much appreciated..

[snakesoup]

and also once this procedure is done how will it go when it's at the stealer on the mut 3 will it be detected and have them scratching there heads??
or is it best to set it up as a plug and play so can be removed before a service or whatnot.?

[biggibbo]

Use bullet joiners so you can pull out for servicing.

I don't bother as mines out of warranty, however I was told its best to disconnect when getting MUT3 updates

[Cowboy Dave]

Tony sells them with optional switching now for such occasions.

[Mashine13]

Just did this mod tonight, soldered a 0.5watt 6k8 resistor and still a p2413 code. Worked for one 5 min drive then next time I started it, engine light stayed on. So is this adjustable one that's mentioned above just like a variable resistor where you change the resistance until you find a level that works? Or do I need a different wattage resistor?

[Cowboy Dave]

It's adjustable but seriously, we've got a guy selling this gear with instructions based on plenty of science and field testing. Even if I knew how to do it (I don't) I wouldn't be undercutting Tony by explaining all the ins and outs. I gather the stuff above is not the whole answer though. Might even be the wrong resistance if I recall correctly. If you're after support for this you might be best PMing the specific guys who've posted apparent solutions above.

[Tony]

The Mitsubishi Denso system can be a pain as most models are different. The method as explained above may work on some models and has proven to in some climates, but is way off what you really need.

I found resistors to be inconstant anyway when working with smaller margins as I do.

This is why I released the plug in kit some time ago. (Had sat on this for over two years and was platinum area only in recent times)
Saves all the stuffing about and I have done all the yards (with some help) to find the sweet spot on all models. (they are different) Not had any come back with CELs of issues as such so well sorted.

[hvac guy]

Just did this mod tonight, soldered a 0.5watt 6k8 resistor and still a p2413 code. Worked for one 5 min drive then next time I started it, engine light stayed on. So is this adjustable one that's mentioned above just like a variable resistor where you change the resistance until you find a level that works? Or do I need a different wattage resistor?

I sense something not right here and I hope im wrong.

[koshari]

Just did this mod tonight, soldered a 0.5watt 6k8 resistor and still a p2413 code. Worked for one 5 min drive then next time I started it, engine light stayed on. So is this adjustable one that's mentioned above just like a variable resistor where you change the resistance until you find a level that works? Or do I need a different wattage resistor?

Do you have an obdii dongle?

[Mashine13]

Yep got a wifi one for iphone and the dashcommand app. Only just got it and still figuring out all the functions though.amything is particular I should look for?

[Longranger1]

Egr function and commanded throttle position.

[koshari]

Yep got a wifi one for iphone and the dashcommand app. Only just got it and still figuring out all the functions though.amything is particular I should look for?

Monitor the erg demand. The start the engine and see if it gets told to open. If so the egr is seeing that the intake air is warm enough for egr operation.

The thermister used on the maf sensor isnt terribly accurate and additionaly is non linear and its possable another sized resistor may possibly be required .

If its not moving and you still get the egr position answer back (p2413)code I would imagine your drive thread on the egr motor is worn as was mine a few years ago. Quite exxy to replace.

[Tony]

I'm thinking the last scenario as P2413 points towards the EGR not closing properly.

Bridge the resistor (with some wire) you fitted and if problem remains with Koshari's test it's then likely to be the edic motor on EGR not returning to rest position. If you fit the correct resistance it may be possible to overcome the edic motor problem if statically set in rest position. Never tried this on triton but have done TDi VW, Ssanyong and Peugeot. They are all dropping EGR faults left right and centre out this way.

[Mashine13]

G'day guys, thanks for the help. Haven't tried bridging the wires but hooked up dashcommand and watched the egr functions with no faults or demands. Cleared the engine light, started it, stopped it, went for a drive, started it again then left it thinking it was all good then next thing engine light on and p2413 code. I think ill just get a new egr. I think the resistor mod is working to a point though, I no longer show -10psi on the boost gauge as it use to. It's weird though, we have 2 MLs, both blanked and chipped, one gets the egr and fuel pressure p0093 codes, other runs like a dream...