Oil colour immediately after service

[leonbee]

The oil was still black

[AnOldFart]

If your main concern is just about keeping your engine's oil ..looking.. nice and ..clean.. then perhaps you should investigate the use of one of these in your rig,
http://www.frantzoil.com/TOILETPAPER.html
These were "all the rage" amongst all of the "heavy-trukkin" set, 40 years ago, their thoughts then, being, that if your donk's oil ..looked.. clean, then it must ...be... clean, right...??
Unfortunately, the ..slick.. Frantz Filters salesmen at all of the truck shows ..simply forgot.. to also mention to the hordes of admiring "owner-driver" truckers, in their enthralled and captivated audiences, that ..apart from.. keepin their oil ..looking.. clean, their company's ..expensive.. toilet paper element filters, actually did, bugga-all about prolonging the ..actual.. service life of their engine oil, due to all of the usual chemical and heat related decomposition factors involved....
Still, they sold a whole heap of them, to a lot of ..sucker-truckers.. who went away happy, because their "big-rig's" oil now, at least ..looked.. clean....

[leonbee]

Found an old speaker magnet. Stuck it on the bottom of my sump. Prevents those nasty metal snow flakes missed by the oil filter circulating around the engine. The magnetic electrons also ionize and reflect the sub micron oil particles into a more reform carbon chain increasing lubrication and decreasing engine wear friction by about 10 %

Does it work. I have no idea but it sounds good.

[RHKTriton]

The other filters are easily marked jman. I write the dates and odometer reading on all my filters when I install them, just a good way to double check when due for change. You can use a permanent marker on the side of the paper pleat in the air filter, no one would be able to alter or rub this out.

If your getting your truck serviced, the fuel filter seems to be the classic one to be 'overlooked' at a service, from my experiences.

Re the oil being black straight off after fill, it doesn't have to be. Unless you have one the stupidly designed forzdas, firstly take the vehicle for a 10minute run to warm up the oil, use a reputable oil flush for about 10mins and then drain when hot. Obviously take the necessary precautions not to scald your hands.

I let the oil drain till nothing drips out and then idle it for around 15secs. The new oil is still semi transparent at around 7 to 10k, pending the type of driving that has occurred over that period. The biggest influence is whether your egr is 'blocked'.

[L200Shogun]

...snip...
I let the oil drain till nothing drips out and then idle it for around 15secs. ...snipppp

First time I have seen that advice. I wouldn't. YMMV

[DCDAD]

I used to get the same thing with my ( now gone thankfully ) 120 Prado, oil was black after every service at toyota! I was SUS! Took the car to Ultratune ( of all places ) $300 cheaper and the Fresh NEW oil smell lasted for weeks on the car, and oil was clean! Never before did i notice this with Toyota!

[AnOldFart]

I used to get the same thing with my ( now gone thankfully ) 120 Prado, oil was black after every service at toyota! I was SUS! Took the car to Ultratune ( of all places ) $300 cheaper and the Fresh NEW oil smell lasted for weeks on the car, and oil was clean! Never before did i notice this with Toyota!

Another possible ..cause.. "DCD" of dirty oil colour immediately after it was supposedly just changed at your latest $$.Toyota.$$ service can be due to the workshop involved using a vacuum pump to suck the old dirty engine oil out through the dip-stick tube, instead of draining it, via removing the sump plug.... This is a ..lazy.. mechanic's method of changing the oil because although it saves him the time and effort involved in doing the usual sump plug oil drain, it also ..never.. removes ..all.. of the old oil that's present in the sump ..or.. the associated oily 'sludge' that inevitably collects there as well.... I couldn't believe my eyes the first time I saw this being done, and I certainly made a mental note right then, never to take any vehicle of mine to that workshop in future....
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by leonbee on Wed Jul 22, 2015 12:27 am
Found an old speaker magnet. Stuck it on the bottom of my sump. Prevents those nasty metal snow flakes missed by the oil filter circulating around the engine. The magnetic electrons also ionize and reflect the sub micron oil particles into a more reform carbon chain increasing lubrication and decreasing engine wear friction by about 10 %
Does it work. I have no idea but it sounds good.

Crikey "leebee" you could easily get yourself a job as a Frantz 'clean-oil' ToiletPaper filter salesman with a super idea like that one....

[Kegsy]

If anywhere, wouldn't you put the magnet on the oil filter to trap the iron in the filter?

[L200Shogun]

If anywhere, wouldn't you put the magnet on the oil filter to trap the iron in the filter?

I believe he was taking the piss. I have seen magnetic sump plugs used that collect steel pieces. I have also seen magnetic wraps for oil filters that are meant to do what you suggest.

[Kegsy]

If anywhere, wouldn't you put the magnet on the oil filter to trap the iron in the filter?

I believe he was taking the piss. I have seen magnetic sump plugs used that collect steel pieces. I have also seen magnetic wraps for oil filters that are meant to do what you suggest.

I know mate...

[jman]

Thanks RHK. Good idea on the filters. Is the whole black part of the fuel filter that can be seen removed? So do I simply mark any of the black bit to verify filter has been changed just like oil filter? Dumb question but haven't changed on on triton yet and want to make sure it is changed as requested.

[viking shippy]

[quote="AnOldFart
Another possible ..cause.. "DCD" of dirty oil colour immediately after it was supposedly just changed at your latest $$.Toyota.$$ service can be due to the workshop involved using a vacuum pump to suck the old dirty engine oil out through the dip-stick tube, instead of draining it, via removing the sump plug.... This is a ..lazy.. mechanic's method of changing the oil because although it saves him the time and effort involved in doing the usual sump plug oil drain, it also ..never.. removes ..all.. of the old oil that's present in the sump ..or.. the associated oily 'sludge' that inevitably collects there as well.... I couldn't believe my eyes the first time I saw this being done, and I certainly made a mental note right then, never to take any vehicle of mine to that workshop in future....


I don't understand your logic ? Old fart!
I Prob never will ...!
Realy what's the difference between a suction hose touching the inside of a sump and a hole in the sump for draining....both actions leave some residue.....the vac pumps suck up fine metal,sludge and oil really well....especially when you moove the suction hose around a bit....if they also put the oil back in I'm buying one.( gear box oil).lol..
You will never be able to completely drain all the oil out of your engine....
If you have ever pulled a diesel engine down you will see it for your own eyes that engine blocks always hold oil in all the gallery's to protect the engine from wear at start up...these suction hose oil changers and dip stick pumps have been used in the marine industry for decades.......I could see you old flatulence man hoisting your marine engine up and putting it on blocks to fit a container under the sump to change the oil....lol...as all marine engines are mounted realy low and in some cases don't have a drain plug.......I've been present when customers learn that it has "no sump plug"..alwase gets a laugh..."if it had one what would you do with it"..... Drain it into the bilge and remove it from there!....lol...seen that too.....for me vacuume oil pumps....great invention....realy? It's not what it looks like it's how often it gets changed and their is no way I'm wasting my money on 5k oil changes...by the book for me...

[RHKTriton]

How do you get all the chunky bits through that tiny dip stick tube??

Magnets on filters were all the rage years ago. I'd suggest if there is any ferris material getting around in the oil its time to get the shotty out and put it out of its misery!

Yes jman, the fuel filter is just like a regular filter can but has a water sensor screwed up it bum.

L200 I've changed my oil like that for over 35yrs and run up some high odo readings without I'll effects.

I think worse issues are the lack of workshop 'hygiene' from my observations at various dealer workshops.

[AnOldFart]

No worries then "vs" to each their own... You can happily go on using your "no sump plug available, marine engine oil suction hose" and I'll equally happily stick with using my own "preferred" sump plug available, oil drain method....

[viking shippy]

[quote="RHKTriton"]How do you get all the chunky bits through that tiny dip stick tube??
The pump comes with very thin walled hoses to suit various dip stick holes...trust me it works well...

Old fart I never said I own one and I have used one once or twice ..Ive made observations over the years ...having a close working relationships with marine engineers....you learn how it's done..
I I still do it the conventional way....I said if they put oil back in Id buy one...

[harland]

If your main concern is just about keeping your engine's oil ..looking.. nice and ..clean.. then perhaps you should investigate the use of one of these in your rig,
http://www.frantzoil.com/TOILETPAPER.html
These were "all the rage" amongst all of the "heavy-trukkin" set, 40 years ago, their thoughts then, being, that if your donk's oil ..looked.. clean, then it must ...be... clean, right...??
Unfortunately, the ..slick.. Frantz Filters salesmen at all of the truck shows ..simply forgot.. to also mention to the hordes of admiring "owner-driver" truckers, in their enthralled and captivated audiences, that ..apart from.. keepin their oil ..looking.. clean, their company's ..expensive.. toilet paper element filters, actually did, bugga-all about prolonging the ..actual.. service life of their engine oil, due to all of the usual chemical and heat related decomposition factors involved....
Still, they sold a whole heap of them, to a lot of ..sucker-truckers.. who went away happy, because their "big-rig's" oil now, at least ..looked.. clean....

Its not about keeping the oil looking nice, the point is compared to an engine .7 litres larger in capacity the oil is becoming loaded with contaminants very early in the interval,and therefore producing more contamination of the oil per litre of fuel burn which I suspect is a result of the software programming, which will accelerate wear and degradation of the oil earlier than what can be achieved otherwise with a different ECU software program.

[leonbee]

Well. Just told by an old timer that I am changing my oil wrong

Never heard this before. What do you think guys. Does have some logic about it.

In the old days.......

Drain engine oil cold. Remove oil filter. Heat a cup of cheap clean oil to thin and pour into engine. Remove plug and drain. Repeat if sludgy. Add new filter and fill with fresh oil. cleaner engine???

[Cowboy Dave]

I've always done it warm. Figured it drains better that way but I guess it already drained warm to the sump last time I turned the engine off. That said I've always tipped another litre of clean oil through in the hope of flushing a bit of extra crap out. Expensive but seemed a good idea and always came out black so was doing something. Never occurred to me to warm it up though.

[harland]

When you turn your engine off and leave it overnight, all the engine oil that is going to drain into the sump will be in the sump by morning when you go to drain it, although when you do drain it this way it still takes time for the oil to run off the sump walls when cold so whether you drain it cold or hot you still need to allow time for oil to drain, for example when left to sit overnight and then drain till it drips, if you put plug back in and wait 10 minutes you will get another 100ml of oil drain out when you pull plug again and may repeat this 3 times and same story when oil is drained hot ( except the oil is finding its way from the valve train to the sump).
You can leave it overnight, drain oil and change filter,if you want to get that bit out of the galleries, put plug back in add 2.5ltrs of oil (that is all that is needed to cover oil pickup on flat surface) then run engine for 10 seconds and turn off, drain that bit out and add your new oil. Just one way to skin a cat.

[leonbee]

The old timer argues by starting the engine you are flicking dirty oil throughout the motor. He did say you need to leave it a few hours to drain as it is slower. The heated up oil drains the remainder of the goo in the bottom of the sump.
He said this is not practical for a workshop as time means money. He also said if very sludgy they hand pumped some liquid into the bottom of the sump through the drain plug to clean, never through the engine. Can't remember what the liquid was. He did agree to the double dump for an engine flush. No additives.

2.5 Litres to cover oil pick up for a flush that's handy to know. Just thinking it might be a good idea to warm up the oil for a flush as well to thin for better coverage and back drain.

[coughy]

why dont you get motor hot then drain it over night???

[leonbee]

why dont you get motor hot then drain it over night???

Yep. I think the old timer is referring to the usual quick warm dump and re-fill.

[jrs184]

Dropped my hot oil and filter Friday nite after coming home from work, let it drain overnight for a change until Saturday, I usually just let it drain for an hour, new oil/filter. Drove it 35km checked the oil still very clean, 180km Tuesday oil still clear on the dipstick and light stain on the wipe cloth, ET mod/Provent/ML...

[leonbee]

If anywhere, wouldn't you put the magnet on the oil filter to trap the iron in the filter?

I believe he was taking the piss. I have seen magnetic sump plugs used that collect steel pieces. I have also seen magnetic wraps for oil filters that are meant to do what you suggest.

I know mate...

The filter only catches particles up to 30 microns. Any sub metal particles in the oil will fall to the bottom of the sump and be pulled to the speaker magnet. Remove the magnet to release particles during oil changes and flush with 500mls of warm oil before re-fill. Spending lots of money on quality engine oil ? Pick up an old crap speaker from a garage sale. More power then a magnetic sump plug cheaper then a filter strap. An oil test would confirm it works.

[itsamitsi]

The 4D56T's are a filthy little diesel. It's turned black again just checking it after fill so don't stress. They have always been like that even all the way back to when they first came out naturally aspirated in the L300's.