Which rear bar?

[macca002]

Departure angle:



Departure Angle

Is the greatest angle of the grade that a vehicle can emerge from a deep rut or to level off after descending a steep slope without the underside rear body touching the ground.

The greater the distance from the rear wheel to the back of the vehicle, the less departure angle.

[har05l]

Wow, thanks for the maths lesson and pretty picture

I'm well aware of how departure angle works but I was pointing out the fact the TJM bar is actually quite sufficient in how it is designed and slides over anything if you hit the bum.

I've yet to see a TJM that has needed repairing but have seen a few ARB bars getting the work over.

Narky you say, whatever

[macca002]

Wow, thanks for the maths lesson and pretty picture

I'm well aware of how departure angle works but I was pointing out the fact the TJM bar is actually quite sufficient in how it is designed and slides over anything if you hit the bum.

I've yet to see a TJM that has needed repairing but have seen a few ARB bars getting the work over.

Narky you say, whatever

The MN has a longer than standard tray, so keep this in mind when in the market for your rear bar.

The TJM whale tail does add a bit extra on to the back of your 4x4, which may make it difficult to fit in your garage (if you have one) and also effects your departure angle.

What a load of BS macca

Never ever has my rear bar interfered with any departures I've driven and you've no idea the sh!t I've done

So really the rear bar does effect your departure angle - even though you said it doesn't. And when it does, it is built strong enough to take the brunt of it

As for narky - maybe not. I guess things can be interpreted differently on the internet - but usually calling someone BS when what they are saying is actually correct can come across as sounding a bit narky.

[snowman]

so i am looking for a bar for the new MN.........

ARB - is pricey and the least side protection for the tub.
MCC - looks like the bloody mice got to it overnight...... and it looks really low in the middle. i reckon you could bend that lower plate very easily.
TJM - the butterfly wings stop in the middle where often you may need protection when reversing . like a pole that could damage your tailgate . Geeze you would have to be unlucky but i like the idea of any of the bars to stop this happening.

i wish one of the manufacturers could get it all right.

Full width bar.
high as possible.
no frigging holes in it
plenty of side protection.

i am seriously thinking about getting the TJM and getting an extra pipe welded across the middle........

decisions decisions.

[macca002]

Exactly the reason why I made my own snowie. Gave me everything I wanted with no compromises. If you are considering buying the TJM and modifying, it would actually end up being much cheaper to make you own from scratch, even if you get a fab place to do it.

Here is mine - some of the pics are before paint, but you get the idea:

As high as possible and as close as possible to rear of tray to give optimal departure but still out far enough to take the knock before the tailgate.
Plenty of side protection - bar follows the width of the flares but sits along the bottom of the tub.
Full width
No holes

Cost - Under $100 with all fittings/materials/paint. Fab shop quoted me $450 to do all the work from start/finish if I didnt want to do myself.

I also get to keep the 3000kg towing capacity by sticking with the factory tow hitch.

Obviously if you choose to make your own, you will have your own set of requirements to work with

[macca002]

Double post - damn tapatalk

[snowman]

Exactly the reason why I made my own snowie. Gave me everything I wanted with no compromises. If you are considering buying the TJM and modifying, it would actually end up being much cheaper to make you own from scratch, even if you get a fab place to do it.

i think as a tow bar there might be some liability and ratings to be addressed. OK if you just wanted a rear protection step.

[macca002]

Exactly the reason why I made my own snowie. Gave me everything I wanted with no compromises. If you are considering buying the TJM and modifying, it would actually end up being much cheaper to make you own from scratch, even if you get a fab place to do it.

i think as a tow bar there might be some liability and ratings to be addressed. OK if you just wanted a rear protection step.

My factory tow bar remains unmolested (untouched), so shouldn't be any liability issues with load ratings

The rear bar brackets mount either side of the factory bar using the factory bolt holes, and same again for the brackets running of the front under the guard.

Updated previous post with some photos

[NowForThe5th]

Exactly the reason why I made my own snowie. Gave me everything I wanted with no compromises. If you are considering buying the TJM and modifying, it would actually end up being much cheaper to make you own from scratch, even if you get a fab place to do it.

Here is mine:



Cost - Under $100 with all fittings/materials/paint. Fab shop quoted me $450 to do all the work from start/finish if I didnt want to do myself.

I also get to keep the 3000kg towing capacity by sticking with the factory tow hitch.

I tend to agree with you, Macca, you're on the right track.

I would be a bit concerned about the way the bar is attached to the chassis on the sides, though. Doesn't look like a very strong design to me.

By comparison, my Ironman bar including strengthening modifications suggested by an engineer (where primed grey).

[macca002]

How would you improve these brackets? The tube is 4mm thickness, gusseted and welded to the bar and then welded to a 4mm plate before mounting.

I have tested the bar strength by lifting using a highlift jack on the back/sides/corners/etc (using a tree trunk protector around the bar to ensure the back did not slip and damage the vehicle) and the bar seemed to hold up to the job of lifting the entire rear weight of the vehicle to the point where the jack became too unsteady to continue - 2/3 the way up the highlift.

I figured this would be plenty strong without adding too much weight to the bar. More than open to suggestions though.

The rear bar also has a lot of under body protection than that of just the tube. This is thanks to the factory tow hitch. Its a massive bit of steel.

[NowForThe5th]

Macca, if you have a look at the attachment of my bar you'll see that the tube is welded on to a plate which is attached to the chassis mount angle. The plate is gusseted full length and this gusset actually provides the major part of the strength, preventing the L shaped bracket from bending at is weak point (the 90 degree turn).

The engineer explained to me that the object was to provide strength in 3 dimensions because no hit is directly vertical. He was inclined to ask that the gusset extend even further under the chassis for maximum strength, but agreed that as it is would be ok.

If you get the chance to look at an ARB/TJM bar you'll find they have a similar arrangement.

[SteveR]

Thanks NowForThe5th.

Im leaning towards the TJM bar purely for a financial reason but I do like the MCC. My only concern about the MCC is the weight of it behind the car. Is this something worth considering?

Cheers

Steve

[NowForThe5th]

I do like the MCC. My only concern about the MCC is the weight of it behind the car. Is this something worth considering?

Not in the big picture, I don't think. These bars aren't actually all that heavy, certainly not like the genuine towbars.

[Quinny]

I do like the MCC. My only concern about the MCC is the weight of it behind the car. Is this something worth considering?

Not in the big picture, I don't think. These bars aren't actually all that heavy, certainly not like the genuine towbars.

For what it's worth, my MCC was sixty odd kg ...

[Bigbirdalx]

I do like the MCC. My only concern about the MCC is the weight of it behind the car. Is this something worth considering?

Not in the big picture, I don't think. These bars aren't actually all that heavy, certainly not like the genuine towbars.

Arb bar was maybe 20-30kgs. Felt similar to spare tyre but more awkward

[macca002]

Macca, if you have a look at the attachment of my bar you'll see that the tube is welded on to a plate which is attached to the chassis mount angle. The plate is gusseted full length and this gusset actually provides the major part of the strength, preventing the L shaped bracket from bending at is weak point (the 90 degree turn).

The engineer explained to me that the object was to provide strength in 3 dimensions because no hit is directly vertical. He was inclined to ask that the gusset extend even further under the chassis for maximum strength, but agreed that as it is would be ok.

If you get the chance to look at an ARB/TJM bar you'll find they have a similar arrangement.

Cheers for the suggestions.
Might fab up some 2mm fishplates this weekend and 'glue' them on. Probably massive overkill, but better to be safe than sorry I guess

[snowman]

Macca, if you have a look at the attachment of my bar you'll see that the tube is welded on to a plate which is attached to the chassis mount angle. The plate is gusseted full length and this gusset actually provides the major part of the strength, preventing the L shaped bracket from bending at is weak point (the 90 degree turn).

The engineer explained to me that the object was to provide strength in 3 dimensions because no hit is directly vertical. He was inclined to ask that the gusset extend even further under the chassis for maximum strength, but agreed that as it is would be ok.

If you get the chance to look at an ARB/TJM bar you'll find they have a similar arrangement.

Cheers for the suggestions.
Might fab up some 2mm fishplates this weekend and 'glue' them on. Probably massive overkill, but better to be safe than sorry I guess

macca,

my only comment is there is a massive difference between being able to take the static weight of your car on the highlift and forces involved when hitting something on the tracks.

especially when i am driving.....

[har05l]

I agree with 5th and snowie, your corner section if it does take a massive downward hit it will bend macca, food for thought and you can never over engineer

Pic of my TJM corner

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1376549096.296299.jpg

@ Snowie, your not the 1st to worry about the void on the TJM bar and there was an idea going around about making an infill that would come out of the tow point (so it was easily removed) and a piece of tube welded to it.
One day

[macca002]

Will sort it out on the weekend. Easy as

[chopper]

The TJM RB6 is the ducks nuts.

Definitely the best looking bar on the market, offers maximum departure angle and is a great price, particularly if fitted from new.

All IMHO, of course.

Wheel carriers, on a DC that already has most of its traveling mass behind the axle?
Nah.

[hewy hacket]

Have read through this post and really have seen no agreement on which bar is the best, I really like the look of the ARB bar compared to what else I have seen, but it seems the price is the complaint about this bar. Can people who have brought or got quotes for one of these bars list their price to give some idea of what price I could push for if I decided to go down this path.

Thanks

Steve

[NowForThe5th]

Have read through this post and really have seen no agreement on which bar is the best,

Exactly. Depends on your application/needs and your taste, as well as the depth of your pockets.

[hewy hacket]

Every one's pockets are deep enough just depends on what you want to go without, you know like food, roof over your head (can always sleep in the Triton), beer (what the ?)

[ag9111]

Have read through this post and really have seen no agreement on which bar is the best, Steve

There is no best as we are all individuals, just like everybody else

[renotriton]

What about these single tube rear bars? i don't think it sits as far back as the picture make it look like does.
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