Cowboy Dave wrote:Yes. Search rodeddy's posts. Assuming you mean the older mn display rather than the ml.
If you wanted the ml display our forum sponsors tritonwreckers have some.
Big Mike wrote:does somebody want do do that for me
Cowboy Dave wrote:Did you check the fusible link/s coming off the positive battery post?
Cowboy Dave wrote:How are you checking the fuses? I ask as I've heard of people testing them for continuity with a multi but finding later that they're actually blown.
Have you checked to make sure the interior light globes aren't blown? I've heard of a blown globe up there causing all sorts of random etacs related problems.
perryano wrote:So ive found if you use the russian website and use the triton 2013 manuals, the equivilant to the 2015MY is there. For those who want to do it yourself and replace the factory cd player with an aftermarket unit can use those diagrams. The 2 connectors will be C170 (20 pin) and C167 (18 pin) when you check the diagrams look for the mitsi multi comms system MMCS. The wiring and pin outs is exact. The steering wheel controls are on connector C170 pins 2 & 12 (ground).
I do want to use the factory mic in the roof so I have to do continuity checks from the mic to the pins on C167 and I hope the wiring runs straight thru and just needs connecting to the back of the head unit.
For the reverse trigger there is 2 options. You can tap off wire 5 on C30 (fwd left kick panel) and run a wire to the head unit, or what may be easier and not cutting any factory wiring is to run a single cable from the rear reverse light to the head unit with the A/V cable. Seeming you will be tapping power for the reverse camera here you can also use the +ve wire from the light to the unit as a trigger.
moshoo wrote:Hey guys.
New to the forum - hope im posting this in the right place.
Ive been trying to install a new double din in a 2015 MN.
Bought a mitsu-iso & iso-sony harness from aerpro. (in hindsight, im kicking myself, as i normally just strip the factory harness, splice and heat-shrink) - thought i`d do it the safe! way this time....
I didn't look too closely at it until after i had connected and powered up, but the wiring doesnt match up.
In doing so, ive fried something... Ive lost my interior lights, rv/audio, and central locking. All else seems to still function normally.
Cant find a blown fuse anywhere, and switched all the relays around.
The workshop manual is suggesting maybe a fried etacs... but ive got other systems still running ok coming out of the etacs (i.e. side & rear window, lighter, ac etc...)
Any ideas to save me the trip to the dealer??
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