jerrah wrote:I took the tail light out and then fed the wire up from underneath and then out from under the lip. Seems to work well.
Ray57MQ wrote:with the online manual could you post a link - thanks !
flyeroz wrote:Ray57MQ wrote:with the online manual could you post a link - thanks !
Here you go:http://mmc-manuals.ru/Mitsubishi_L200_V:_Service_Manuals
ls2cruiser wrote:Just make sure you use 6mm wire and go right to the battery terminals . Dont use the chassis as an earth pick up. You know the rest, cheers
koshari wrote:ls2cruiser wrote:Just make sure you use 6mm wire and go right to the battery terminals . Dont use the chassis as an earth pick up. You know the rest, cheers
why not?
ag9111 wrote:koshari wrote:ls2cruiser wrote:Just make sure you use 6mm wire and go right to the battery terminals . Dont use the chassis as an earth pick up. You know the rest, cheers
why not?
0V return via the chassis relies on pieces of metal bolted together that were not meant to handle the passage of current.
The tray is not bonded as a proper 0v connection point.
As these pieces of metal oxidise and generally age the current path becomes worse and worse until eventually you have problems.
Most of the electrical issues with vehicles can be traced back to incorrect connection of the 0V.
This includes humm and static on the radio
gartam wrote:If you want to run power to the tray there is a blocked off electrical junction on the left hand side of the chassis near the fuel tank. It shows it in the diagram in the online manual. When you open the online manual on the left hand side there is a list. Go down to number 70- component locations and it will expand and then click on inspection connentor and spare connector and the diagram shows you where they are.
ag9111 wrote:Simple fact of the matter is that the chassis, body was never designed to carry high current apart from the link battery to body to motor.
You can throw up all the theory and assumptions in the world but the fact is i have diagnosed and fixed 5, that I can remember,
of these dual battery systems that have failed. Corrosion being the main cause.
Cable to battery and tidy up the connections and all good.
I had an argument with naff, a electrical engineer, on this very point at the Brindabells one weekend. You were there Chris.
A couple of years later his system failed due to a corroded 0v connection point to the tray. He apologised by post on this forum
As an electrician with 28 years DC experience I will always recommend 0v back to the battery.
You do what you want.
ag9111 wrote:I had an argument with naff, a electrical engineer, on this very point at the Brindabells one weekend. You were there Chris.
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