Bspack101 wrote:Hi Guys, that terminal in the fuse box did you use a female blade terminal, and im putting in 2 x 9" spotties and a 22" lightbar on my 2016 gls, can i twist the two wires from both harness into that terminal?
mikejams wrote:I know you are probably sick of me already, but just trying to confirm I'm doing the right thing. I connect the positive from where the headlight adaptor should attach to the fuse box via an add on fuse and then earth the negative? Thanks very much?
WUNSIE wrote:Just remember jim, GLS Tritons have HID headlights, touch the wrong spot around the ballast and you will feel what over 25000volts feel like!
I too have a GLS and when I was searching around to hook up the light bar I installed, after searching and searching, talking to various sparkies who deal specifically with Mitsubishi dealership I splashed out on the Genuine Mitsubishi wiring harness and honestly it could not have been easier.
Simply plug and play, no drilling bloody holes in the fire wall as once you have it all done under the bonnet, remove the passenger kick panel and simply plug the wiring for the switch in and all done, the plugs are all waiting there ready to go.
Loom set me back about $125 from memory, considering a couple of sparkies quoted me $200 +
WUNSIE wrote:Plug and Play, only wires need attaching are the Neg & Pos from relay to battery, NO JOINING required
Bronson777 wrote:Hmmm, came here hoping to find answers and seems others are experiencing the same as myself. I have the factory driving light harness and the switch illuminates but the led does nothing. Also, my switch illuminates as soon as key is turned to acc so I need to replace that wire with one from dash lights as opposed to acc.
Was wondering if applying a voltage to either of the two unused posts on the switch itself may fire the led?
Was told the led won’t work as the lights are negatively switched? I can probably live without it but my ocd would rather not!
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