The Newbie Help Thread

[Jacobie]

hi, also new to utes and 4wd, my new exceed has a dif lock, so what is it and why is it good to have ?

Locks the rear diff for equal torque to both wheels.
For example, if you're off road and one of your wheels in the rear is off the ground, rather then sending all the torque to the wheel with no traction (open diff), it will have an equal split and will give torque to the wheel on the ground and off the ground. This will generally get you out of trouble in most cases offroad.

Don't have it engaged on road, only use it if you need it.

[Mozzie20]

Hi
New here as I have just bought a Triton MN 2014 MY15 GLX-R manual with 90 000 km on it major service just completed. I have noticed what I think is turbo lag up to 2000rpm and then after that it goes like a rocket. Dealer said this is normal for this model and mates at work confirm same thing. I have read the forums for hours and find I'm getting confused, so I would like to be pointed in the correct direction. I have looked at throttle controllers various brands from $200 to $500 and also looked at chipmydiesel for $550. The reason I want to go this way is they are plug n play and car is still under warranty. I'm not after massive power gains just want to be able to drive under 2000 rpm. All reviews seem good on products but I have noticed some disagreement in regards to the throttle controller. One member was going to do a review on chipmydiesel but I can't find any posts after his original post about this review.
Can anyone point me to a post or give some advice on their experiences with these products please.
regards Allan

[srb]

Welcome to the forum, Allan.

MN Triton and turbo lag go hand in... We call it the "calm before the storm" once that Turbo is spooled up all hell can break loose.

Being a manual you'll eventually learn to drive around it.
In my experience, throttle controllers only make it more noticeable. The sudden change between nothing to full boost is more violent due to the quicker throttle response.. Some people like them but I think they suck.

Also, I wouldn't recommend going down the road of the "cheap plug and play chip" of any brand, unless you've got someone that really knows how to set it up and tune it to your vehicle correctly.

If you want real world performance out of a "plug in chip" and get rid of most of the lag? Then unfortunately you've got to spend upwards of more than a grand. A good quality chip and then the tuning will cost similar to that of a good quality ecu loaded tune.

Do your own research and find a reputable chip company that can also custom tune it for your needs. This is super important for common rail diesels.

Do all the basics first, grab a 2micron secondary fuel filter as this will help keep your injectors in good shape, especially if you're running a chip or tune.

There's also tricky way of waking up these turbos without the use of chips and tunes... but that's probably waaaaaay too much information for you at this stage.. And I'm NOT qualified to explain it! but I can say it involves some complex plumbing, dawes valve and the bypassing of the electronic boost solenoid... Aka as the "lag solenoid".
All info is buried in this forum, somewhere.


Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[Mozzie20]

Welcome to the forum, Allan.

MN Triton and turbo lag go hand in... We call it the "calm before the storm" once that Turbo is spooled up all hell can break loose.

Being a manual you'll eventually learn to drive around it.
In my experience, throttle controllers only make it more noticeable. The sudden change between nothing to full boost is more violent due to the quicker throttle response.. Some people like them but I think they suck.

Also, I wouldn't recommend going down the road of the "cheap plug and play chip" of any brand, unless you've got someone that really knows how to set it up and tune it to your vehicle correctly.

If you want real world performance out of a "plug in chip" and get rid of most of the lag? Then unfortunately you've got to spend upwards of more than a grand. A good quality chip and then the tuning will cost similar to that of a good quality ecu loaded tune.

Do your own research and find a reputable chip company that can also custom tune it for your needs. This is super important for common rail diesels.

Do all the basics first, grab a 2micron secondary fuel filter as this will help keep your injectors in good shape, especially if you're running a chip or tune.

There's also tricky way of waking up these turbos without the use of chips and tunes... but that's probably waaaaaay too much information for you at this stage.. And I'm NOT qualified to explain it! but I can say it involves some complex plumbing, dawes valve and the bypassing of the electronic boost solenoid... Aka as the "lag solenoid".
All info is buried in this forum, somewhere.


Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

Thanks very much for your advice, I was trying to short cut the learning curve. I'll start looking at fuel filters as you suggested and have seen some blokes have different air cleaners so look in this direction as well. You're correct in saying I'll learn to drive around it, but I find it hard when you change up gears you're going straight back into the lag zone. On the subject of complex plumbing, I'll let that on go at this point. thanks again

[RHKTriton]

Hi Mozzie, welcome to the site of education and entertainment.

First thing I always think of when people bring up the turbo kag etc, is that turbo diesel, dragging around over 2tonnes is not a petrol 'Dore or F'can. Diesels are a totally different driving experience to petrol.

My son has a 09 mn, auto and it chugs along pretty well.

Best areas of attention include, change filters regularly, check that VGT vane mech on turbo moves freely, check that vacuum hoses are in good nic, manifold is clean, keep intercooler clean and remove unnecessary weight, etc.

Have fun.

[Mozzie20]

Hi Mozzie, welcome to the site of education and entertainment.

First thing I always think of when people bring up the turbo kag etc, is that turbo diesel, dragging around over 2tonnes is not a petrol 'Dore or F'can. Diesels are a totally different driving experience to petrol.

My son has a 09 mn, auto and it chugs along pretty well.

Best areas of attention include, change filters regularly, check that VGT vane mech on turbo moves freely, check that vacuum hoses are in good nic, manifold is clean, keep intercooler clean and remove unnecessary weight, etc.

Have fun.

Thanks RHK, I've had car to the Mitsubishi dealer since purchase and the 90 000km major service was done plus AC belt and battery, asked them to check everything and the belt and battery were all they picked up. The engine bay is clean as a whistle and is fitted with a snorkel, so from what I've read this is a good thing. I think some of the problem is me going from petrol twin turbo and always having that torque on hand. I just find driving around town I'm always in that lag zone. If I change at 2500rpm then go up a gear you just go straight back in to lag zone. Being diesel I didn't want to always be changing at 3000rpm when redline is 4500rpm. Anyway I still like it and I'm enjoying all the little accessories that I'm putting on it.

So is the manifold clean something that should be done at certain KM's ??
regards Allan

[Mozzie20]

@RHKTriton
I've just seen a post from jman regarding carbon build up in manifold at 90 000km that had to be replaced under warranty. So thanks for advice, will be talking to dealer this week. Does anyone know if there are symptoms? From my understanding this car has done a lot of highways km's, I'd imagine this is better than town driving for carbon build-up???

[RHKTriton]

My son's was bought at around 170k and now has about 215k. Its manifold has a fair buildup - next project on the list.

I can see where you'd be longing, coming off twin pumps with petrol. Think of all the extra 'tax' the Govt. misses out on though.

[Mozzie20]

My son's was bought at around 170k and now has about 215k. Its manifold has a fair buildup - next project on the list.

I can see where you'd be longing, coming off twin pumps with petrol. Think of all the extra 'tax' the Govt. misses out on though.

You are so correct about the taxes lo lmfao legend

[ARMYGUYZ]

Hi all. I am from St. Lucia in the caribbean and i am an auto repair technician and mitsubishi enthusiast at that. Its great to find out that there a persons out there who share the a similar passion and can meet in one place to share knowledge and guide each other.
Thanks for accepting my request.

Is there a thread on a P0016 code?

[ARMYGUYZ]

Hi all i need some assistance here to diagnose an issue i am facing with the 2.5 please.

The engine shut down whiles driving and wouldn't restart, it would turn over but not fireup. I used some starting fluid and it fired but if i tried to allow it to idle it would shut down . I was able to get it out from the highway and secured. It wouldn't start after.
Scanned it and a P0016 code comes up. All the timing seems to be in order. Purchased a new cam sensor and installed it but still no fire. When the cam sensor is disconnected the engine fires up with ease but operates just under 2K rpm. There is good pressure at the pump and have serviced the SCV.
Is there something that i may have overlooked causing the mis-correlation between the sensors? Or if anyone has had this issue before how was it rectified?

[jdr476]

Hi everyone,
I'm trying to find out how to remove the centre console of my MQ auto. I have had a look around but could see anything. I must be missing something, surely someone else has had to remove theirs by now lol. It would be great if someone could point me in the right direction of a few photos or instructions.
Cheers John

[NowForThe5th]

There is an online manual here.

In it you will find detailed instructions on removal and refitting of most parts in your Triton.

[jdr476]

Thanks Chris

[Dave2709]

Hi everyone my names Dave I'm a carpenter I bought a mq 4x4 cub cab tray I've had it for 12 months now I'm really happy with it. But like a lot of you turbo lag is a pain more so when taking of up hill with a trailer lucky I don't tow all the time

[MN Driver]

I have a 2011 mn. First thing I did was get a remap. Turbo lag is greatly reduced. best decision I made.

[NowForThe5th]

From Post #1 in this thread:

Welcome to the NewTriton forum,

If you are new to forums or just new to NewTriton and are unsure on how to use the forum, ask here. Hopefully someone will come along and provide you with some guidance.

If the question is more to do with your Triton, that is best in the relevant thread.

We expect after a couple of months of lurking and maybe 20 posts up your sleeve you have got the hang of it.

We don't want this thread to go the way of the "Can't find it...." thread which had to be removed because no-one would use it the way it was intended.

[Willby78]

HELP PLEASE... I can’t believe how much of an idiot I am.... I have just done the egr clean on my mn triton except I used oven cleaner... and it worked really well... but I got a little carried away in the moment and after removing and doing the intake manifold I proceeded to fill my engine ports with oven cleaner as well and it didn’t even click until I was hosing out my bloody engine and the ports filled with water .... I am such an idiot.... please can anyone with turbo diesel knowledge point me in the right direction ... ANYONE... this is my first 4x4... my first diesel... my first turbo ... and I have owned it for less than 6 months... I am literally sick to my stomach .... at this point in time i have not touched a thing... it is still full of water and oven cleaner... .... my only guess for the next step with my limited knowledge is to drain the oil but I’m sure it can’t be that easy.... please... I need any help I can get

[MikeBris]

Hi there,

Is it ok to post details of a Triton that I'm thinking of buying.
For others to give their opinions and insight into stuff that I have overlooked that perhaps makes it not such a great deal... or potentially a catastrophe purchase for me.

Regards,
Mike

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Give it a shot

[NowForThe5th]

Yes, it's ok. In the General Discussion forum for the series that you're thinking of buying.

[Bianca44]

Hi All,
I am new to this Forum but have had my Triton for about 2 years now.
I have a 2016 MQ dual cab.
Getting ready to drive to Perth from Sydney next month so I am pretty excited to do a bit of sight seeing.

Bianca

[Pet3R]

Nice Bianca.

I’ve recently bought a 2014 MN, and whilst I’m not a 4x4 guy as such, there’s an intriguing amount of old-skool annoyances with this thing - more than I’d expect from a 2014 vehicle.
In one aspect, it’s good that it’s a fairly rudimentary built car, because taking it apart is pretty easy to do.
As a comparison, I’ve had a 2008 WRX for 10 years, and that thing is years ahead in terms of built quality, design and execution. But that may just be the difference between Thailand and Japan - and the Triton’s target market.

Anyways, first things first, I went hunting for the workshop manual. I need circuit diagrams, component locations, all that good stuff. Had to go to Russia to get it - so it surprises me that this forum doesn’t make that information available - at least ‘under the table’. Yes, searched and searched.

Here’s a very simple cause of frustration with information. The MN is GLX Commercial (vinyl floor, etc) with a radio/CD player up in the high cowling. Of course I find the BT/hands-free ECU that runs all the speech interaction stuff, the ceiling microphone, and the ‘usb’ port.
The radio unit is double height (the front) and has two loom connections, an 18pin to the hands-free ECU and a 20pin for the standard power/speaker/etc connections. I go looking for the pinout of the 20pin, and find every Mitsubishi vehicle with a 20pin radio connector - EXCEPT Triton. And most of those have different pin spots for functions!! Great.
The ‘workshop manual’ has only the loom connectors for the low-mount radio/CD (below the HVAC controls), and they’re a different shape. I don’t believe what I have is MMCS, and those diagrams don’t match the connector shapes anyway. So I go old-stool and manually trace out the wiring - from post to fusible link to cabin JB to fuse.. etc. etc. I have it sorted now, but really?
I’ll post up what I found, assuming that it’s not known? But how can that be - does everyone who replaces the high-mount radio/cd-player use an Aerpro ISO breakout loom? Or am I missing something in the search function.

Anyways, I’m here and learning.

[NowForThe5th]

Anyways, first things first, I went hunting for the workshop manual. I need circuit diagrams, component locations, all that good stuff. Had to go to Russia to get it - so it surprises me that this forum doesn’t make that information available - at least ‘under the table’. Yes, searched and searched.

Screenshot_20210719_181942.jpeg

Screenshot_20210719_181534.jpeg

Issues relating to copyright are treated differently here to how they're treated in countries like Russia. So, although there are links, that's about as far as we can go. As you can see, though, a search reveals lots of mentions and, of course, the links are in the Forum Directory. The situation is the same for other sites that deal with Tritons, Pajeros or other Mitsubishi products.

I’ll post up what I found, assuming that it’s not known? But how can that be - does everyone who replaces the high-mount radio/cd-player use an Aerpro ISO breakout loom?

The issue of swapped connections is known and mentioned in quite a number of posts. Back in the ML days, before Aerpro developed their adaptor harnesses we all had to do it the hard way and then hardwire. There are a few threads with "how tos", including one I did, about 12 years ago. Concepts are the same, though.

I can't remember and haven't searched as to whether there is one for the 2014 MN GLX but anything you post up on doing it will be welcomed and useful to other members. If need be I'll move this and your last post and we can run a separate thread for that.

[Pet3R]

I'll post a some a pic and a layout of the 'standard' radio harness connector - not the interface to the Hands-Free ECU.
If you wish to aggregate, please do.


peter