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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cowboy Dave on Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:18 pm

In my view, no. But beware that there is a 250s and a 250s dual. I recommend the dual as you can later add a solar panel input or use that second input with some other 12v charging source. The main reason I suggest you beware of the confusion is that I managed to buy the wrong one thinking I'd scored a bargain. I think Tony has that one now. I ended up buying the dual and am still running it now year later.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cage on Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:25 pm

Thanks Dave.

The 250S dual was the one I was looking at.

Cheers
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cage on Tue Oct 21, 2014 11:09 pm

Just priced the bits on fleabay and I reckon I can do a DIY job for around $400
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby CALMAN09GLXR on Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:00 am

hey guys I remember seeing something on here once about eliminating the boost cut out sensor or something of the like. its been a while since my last post on here but I have been a busy bee on my car and the boost sensor is the only thing holding me back. I have constructed a 3" stainless dump with screamer that reconnects and a full 3" stainless system. I've installed a 600x300x75 FMIC solid piping and a boost controller but I find I cant really add much boost without the engine fault light coming on. if someone could redirect me to the thread that has the boost sensor eliminator that would be great cheers
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby CALMAN09GLXR on Wed Oct 22, 2014 7:04 am

CALMAN09GLXR wrote:hey guys I remember seeing something on here once about eliminating the boost cut out sensor or something of the like. its been a while since my last post on here but I have been a busy bee on my car and the boost sensor is the only thing holding me back. I have constructed a 3" stainless dump with screamer that reconnects and a full 3" stainless system. I've installed a 600x300x75 FMIC solid piping and a boost controller but I find I cant really add much boost without the engine fault light coming on. if someone could redirect me to the thread that has the boost sensor eliminator that would be great cheers


it also has egr eliminated
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby sancho6 on Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:46 am

Hi Guys
thank you for a great forum, I have a triton 08 with 178000 kms and it is surging and cutting out above 2000rpm which tells me I need to do the EGR blocking with a 6mm hole.
I just wanted to ask a question about removing the intake manifold, is there any risks to the high pressue fuel injestion system ,anything I shoud watch for when removing or is it straight forward job.
I was planning to block the EGR, clean the intake and maybe install a catch can.
has anyone used Chip Tunning pro vent style catch can.
sorry if any of this has been covered but I spent a lot of time looking for it in the search area but could not find any answers regarding the removal and pro vent style oil separator.
thanks in advance
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Homer on Wed Oct 22, 2014 9:55 am

sancho6 wrote:Hi Guys
thank you for a great forum, I have a triton 08 with 178000 kms and it is surging and cutting out above 2000rpm which tells me I need to do the EGR blocking with a 6mm hole.
I just wanted to ask a question about removing the intake manifold, is there any risks to the high pressue fuel injestion system ,anything I shoud watch for when removing or is it straight forward job.
I was planning to block the EGR, clean the intake and maybe install a catch can.
has anyone used Chip Tunning pro vent style catch can.
sorry if any of this has been covered but I spent a lot of time looking for it in the search area but could not find any answers regarding the removal and pro vent style oil separator.
thanks in advance


Sancho, I suggest that the method you are attempting is quite outdated and no where near as effective as the new resistor mod.

here is a link to that solution, and I should add that a member on here named Tony supplies a ready made product to achieve the desired outcome if you are looking for a cheap, easy way to do it.

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15856
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby sancho6 on Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:01 am

thank you Homer that looks great, I would still neeed to remove the intake manfold to clean it out? i can just imagine how much carbon build up is there.
have you ever done one is it straight forward job?
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cowboy Dave on Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:14 am

See also here for a guide to removing and cleaning the manifold, it should have the answers you need about that:

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=13181
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby sancho6 on Wed Oct 22, 2014 12:08 pm

thank you Cowboy Dave much appreciated
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby hvac guy on Wed Oct 22, 2014 1:47 pm

U want a voltage clamp on the map sensor I think try looking for voltage clamp
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby sancho6 on Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:34 pm

and I should add that a member on here named Tony supplies a ready made product to achieve the desired outcome if you are looking for a cheap, easy way to do it.

Homer, how do I get in touch with Tony? I think instead of reading the whole posts from 2012 or so I would rather get in touch with someone who has done the testing and research, pay him for his hard earned research, if you guys all think this is the way to go.
I guess I would like to install his product and then clean the intake manifold to make it run better.
thank you once again for your help.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby snowman on Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:50 pm

sancho6 wrote:
and I should add that a member on here named Tony supplies a ready made product to achieve the desired outcome if you are looking for a cheap, easy way to do it.

Homer, how do I get in touch with Tony? I think instead of reading the whole posts from 2012 or so I would rather get in touch with someone who has done the testing and research, pay him for his hard earned research, if you guys all think this is the way to go.
I guess I would like to install his product and then clean the intake manifold to make it run better.
thank you once again for your help.


email

tony@spvindustries.com

make sure your NTN user name is in the email as well.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cage on Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:53 pm

When wiring up the CTEK D250S Dual it seems I need two fuses/circuit breakers. one close to the starting battery and one close to the battery in the camper. Does it go between the 250S and the battery? And what type is best?
Sorry if I sound like a dumbo that you probably think should go spend the big bucks the auto leccy wanted.

Thanks
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby sancho6 on Wed Oct 22, 2014 2:53 pm

thank you snowman
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby biggibbo on Wed Oct 22, 2014 3:24 pm

After the start battery before the ctek, then again between the ctek and aux battery. Basically a fuse/breaker from any positive off any battery.

I used the 100am manual reset breaker from blue sea
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby ag9111 on Wed Oct 22, 2014 4:29 pm

Place the circuit breakers, fuses as close to the batteries as possible. Mine sit on top of the batteries with about 100mm of double insulated cable to the positive post
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cage on Wed Oct 22, 2014 4:51 pm

Thanks for the info gentlemen.

I'm a bit of a nervous nellie with this electrical stuff but if I can save myself 7 or 8 hundred bucks, I'll have a go.

ag, I just looked at those Blue Sea CB's, they are pretty pricey but I guess you get peace of mind with them.

I'm tossing up between a Century and a Fullriver 120ah battery. Would like to buy OZ made but you sure pay a premium.

I would like to think that I do this once, and do it right.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cowboy Dave on Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:02 pm

You can some pretty decent pre-wired kits if you're looking to simplify the exercise a little. I recommend using andersen plugs for your connections. I've got tonnes of the bloody things in my setup but it means I can change everything around and re-route stuff really easily because everything has the same plug on the end of it. You can buy cable pre-wired with them if you don't have the gear to crimp or solder the terminals with.

With the circuit breakers/fuses it really depends on what cables/wires you're going to use. If you're running a chunk of wire the thickness of a pen for example it can be a real bugger to try and connect it to a little blade fuse.

If you are running thick cable something like this might do the job (they come in different amperages etc) http://www.ebay.com/itm/280635018103?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cage on Thu Oct 23, 2014 10:20 am

Cheers Dave.

I've looked at the pre-wired set-ups and most seem to use 6mm/8mm auto cable, whereas most of the people on the forums I've visited who seem to have expert knowledge and experience in setting up trailer dual battery systems recommend a minimum of 6B&S, 13mm², to minimise voltage drop over a 10m run.

This is all 'smoke 'n' mirrors' to me, totally out of my comfort zone and areas of understanding, but as I said above I really do want to do it once, and do it right.

So far the only hurdle I can see is attaching lugs to the heavy duty cable, but there is an auto sparky who drinks at my watering hole who works on the heavy gear in the mines and I'm sure he will have the gear and the expertise to do that job for me, might only cost me a slab. ;)
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cowboy Dave on Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:31 am

A slab? Must be mine rates. Sounds like a 6 pack job to me unless he's using solder.

If your ctek is going to be in the van near the battery then you don't have to worry as much about voltage drop. I think I went with 6B&S with the double insulation. Never had an issue but that's just to the tray.

I've bought stuff from this seller before - none of the lugs they've fitted are showing any signs of coming off so far. This may not be what you're after but gives you an idea of what's available once you know your lengths: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FUSED-Anderson-Lead-50amp-plug-8mm-Lugs-6B-S-100-amp-cable-lead-7-Metres-/321120613706?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac447b54a
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cage on Thu Oct 23, 2014 12:50 pm

Bloody ripper Dave !!!

That's exactly what I need, all wired up, fuse and all. I'll give them a call and get a price on a 4m run for the trailer end.

Thank you heaps.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby mitzikatzi on Thu Oct 23, 2014 3:46 pm

Is there a plate in the engine bay with build date and engine number. 2013 model.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cowboy Dave on Thu Oct 23, 2014 4:41 pm

mitzikatzi wrote:Is there a plate in the engine bay with build date and engine number. 2013 model.


Try this post mate:

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=14326&p=351487&hilit=compliance+plate#p351604

or this one with less pictures:

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=5913&p=95288&hilit=compliance+plate#p95288
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby mitzikatzi on Thu Oct 23, 2014 5:15 pm

thanks
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