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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby ag9111 on Fri Oct 10, 2014 6:17 pm

jrs184 wrote:hi , I wouid like some info on the life of triton ML cat converters, mine has ticked over 110Kkm, I have ET mod , catch can, 2T in diesel since I have owned it, is there anything to watch out for or symptoms etc and how long do they last, is there a recommended delete option for the cat pipe when the time comes for replacement, thanks John

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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby cujorex on Fri Oct 10, 2014 6:37 pm

Hey everyone. Just purchased a 2006 ML Triton. There doesnt seem to be any 4wd lights on instrument cluster as manual states. Also doesnt seem to be engaging 4wd once selected. Ideas? Cheers :oops:
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby 4wd26 on Fri Oct 10, 2014 7:05 pm

4wd actuator tubes/ air lines
They are on the front of the front diff

There is also a switch, pair of wires also low down on the front diff

These would be my first checks, see if any damage

The solinoids for 4wd are also problem areas but usually show by flashing lights, not a symptom you have.

These are on the drivers firewall/ guard
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Jrosey on Fri Oct 10, 2014 7:11 pm

Hi all
2010 MN going in to stealer for synchro repair/replace on Monday I enquired re replacing clutc as gearbox would be out and quote was approx $2000. Asked why so expensive and answer was you have to replace dual mass flywheel when doing pressure and wear plate. Sounds like a load of bull. Any comments or opinions I can take back to stealer. Clutch is still OK but thought while the work was being done might as well replace. Also thought MN had solid flywheel???
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4wd not selecting and no 4wd light on dash

Postby cujorex on Fri Oct 10, 2014 7:15 pm

Hey everyone. Just purchased a 2006 ML Triton. There doesnt seem to be any 4wd lights on instrument cluster as manual states. Also doesnt seem to be engaging 4wd once selected. Ideas? Cheers.
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Re: 4wd not selecting and no 4wd light on dash

Postby variflex on Fri Oct 10, 2014 7:52 pm

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Re: 4wd not selecting and no 4wd light on dash

Postby NowForThe5th on Fri Oct 10, 2014 8:18 pm

Cujorex, you need to show a little patience, mate. Asked the same question in the "Ask here first..." thread at 8.37, had a response at 9.05 and then started this one at 9.15.

Merged.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby micv on Mon Oct 13, 2014 6:39 pm

Searching for advice on front prop shaft replacement:

I have a 2010 manual GLXR which has a front prop shaft of teh kind that has a CV joint at the transfer-case-end and a universal joint at the front-diff-end. The other perhaps more common type of front shaft has a universal joint at both ends (instead of a CV at one end). Installing this in my Triton results in a short reach i.e about an inch too short.

Does anyone know if this kind of shaft can be installed with the use of a spacer?

Is anyone wrecking a Triton with the correct kind of shaft with the CV at one end?

Any comments or advice appreciated.

Thanks.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Jrosey on Mon Oct 13, 2014 6:48 pm

Evening all
Still chasing info regarding clutch in 6/2010 MN . Two different "stealers" have told me two different stories. One says my MN would have a dual mass flywheel and the other says it is a solid one. Big difference in price and harder to source a DMF. Is there any way you can tell from the VIN number or is a given that it should be a solid one? Help please as gearbox has to come out next week and need to make the decision re clutch .
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby ag9111 on Mon Oct 13, 2014 6:52 pm

It is single mass.
Did the same as you. Replaced my clutch, I supplied, when the gearbox come out for bearing replacement at 120.000km.
Only cost to me was flywheel skimming
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cowboy Dave on Mon Oct 13, 2014 6:52 pm

Jrosey wrote:Evening all
Still chasing info regarding clutch in 6/2010 MN . Two different "stealers" have told me two different stories. One says my MN would have a dual mass flywheel and the other says it is a solid one. Big difference in price and harder to source a DMF. Is there any way you can tell from the VIN number or is a given that it should be a solid one? Help please as gearbox has to come out next week and need to make the decision re clutch .
Cheers


Here's a whole thread bang on point for you.

http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=15337&p=383131&hilit=clutch+dual+mass#p383128
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby salt36 on Mon Oct 13, 2014 6:55 pm

micv wrote:Searching for advice on front prop shaft replacement:

I have a 2010 manual GLXR which has a front prop shaft of teh kind that has a CV joint at the transfer-case-end and a universal joint at the front-diff-end. The other perhaps more common type of front shaft has a universal joint at both ends (instead of a CV at one end). Installing this in my Triton results in a short reach i.e about an inch too short.

Does anyone know if this kind of shaft can be installed with the use of a spacer?

Is anyone wrecking a Triton with the correct kind of shaft with the CV at one end?

Any comments or advice appreciated.

Thanks.

I would be skeptical of the CV type joint handling all the power to the front diff...

Perhaps the guys at Triton Wreckers could help answer your questions ?

Worth a try.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Jrosey on Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:03 pm

Thanks everyone. Will get the solid flywheel and clutch kit. Cheers
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby micv on Mon Oct 13, 2014 7:35 pm

Salt,
Strangely it was the unijoint end that broke, not the CV end, and when one of the uni joint spider pins breaks and the shaft keeps turning it twists the jaws of the joint out of wack.
Thanks
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Earlyninja on Thu Oct 16, 2014 9:25 am

Hi all, has anyone replaced an ML multifunction/trip center display with an MN one? there was a post in a thread somewhere about this, but can't find it again
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Big Brad on Sat Oct 18, 2014 10:59 am

Hi Guys

My ML triton v6 is having air con issues.

Have searched "air con" but nothing relevant to my problem.

Have had new fan clutch installed and new evaporator ( behind Dash ) installed also.

Issue is that whilst the air con is nice and cold it wont engage or cycle after initial blow. Is fine when temp is under 24 but stuffed when over that even on highway doing 110kph. If you leave it off for 10min or so then will turn on but only for one or two cycles and gone again.

Have also cleaned out between condenser and radiator and had faulty thermo switch replaced with thermostat but still not fixed.

Hoping we may have some gurus on here that may have an idea.

Thanks

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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby snowman on Sat Oct 18, 2014 11:05 am

This car is like a bad drug habit. It is taking all my money and time, my family are concerned, but new mods just feel sooooooo good.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Big Brad on Sat Oct 18, 2014 12:34 pm

Thanks Snowy

Have read thru that thread and all others on air con but none refer to the non cycling that is a affecting mine hence the post. Getting cold is not an issue but having it cycle on and off rather than just off is.

Cheers

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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby hvac guy on Sat Oct 18, 2014 12:43 pm

Brad the tx valve might be stuffed and icing up the evaporator causing the ac to protect itself. Does it last longer when u use air from outside.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Big Brad on Sat Oct 18, 2014 3:38 pm

Thanks Hvac for the reply

Haven't noticed any difference in time but shall start timing and see.

I usually have it set midway between fresh and recirc.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby frmby on Sat Oct 18, 2014 5:28 pm

Hi all. First post and a small drama. I've got a MN GL-R.

I pulled the clear plastic cover off the instrument panel since it has become cloudy. Accidentally bumped the tacho needle and now it's sitting at 6 o'clock. If I move it back to 0rpm it drops down again when I key the ignition. Hoping for a quick fix.
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Charging a camper trailer battery

Postby Cage on Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:50 pm

I want to charge a battery mounted on a camper trailer when traveling.

The battery, probably a 120ah, will be used to power a 30l fridge, probably an Ironman with a Danfoss compressor, some low output LCD lights and to recharge a mobile phone and a laptop. When camped I will use either 240v or a solar panel.

I went to two Auto electricians today and one said $1100 and the other $1200 and both said it was so dear because the Triton computer gets involved in the charging process. I know SFA about auto electrics, or any other electrics for that matter, but it seems a lot to me.

Can someone please explain to me just what is required to do this job.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby hvac guy on Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:02 pm

The tritons alternator does not get controlled by the ecu check out the ctek threads.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cowboy Dave on Tue Oct 21, 2014 7:35 pm

x2 on what hvac said mate, they've got the wrong end of the pineapple. For that sort of coin though I'd be going DIY anyway.
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Re: Ask here FIRST, before you start a new thread

Postby Cage on Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:18 pm

As I said above I am really dumb with electrics.

If I use the CTEK D250S do I still need a VSR?
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