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[Cowboy Dave]

Why is there no power in the GLX fog light wiring harness?
I have a 2012 mn GLX im fitting my bullbar atm and discovered that the loom is there for the fog lights (GLX has no fog lights) but when the lights are turned on there is no power to either plug am I missing something?
I would of thought even though the lights aren't fitted on a GLX there still would be power to them.
Is it as simple as installing a fuse in the right slot?

Try this thread mate http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=11652&hilit=fog+light

[Scale]

Thanks Dave buggard if I could find anything but thought it would've been covered cheers

[PhillipJ]

I've been experiencing pretty bad surging at high loads/high boost which today resulted in a P0106 code and the ASC lights coming on.

The actual cause of the code and lights was that the hose from the inlet manifold to the manifold pressure sensor blew off so the ECU was seeing zero boost.

The surging feels like not enough fuel and (as far as I can tell) only occurs when boost is over about 20 PSI. I can't see how that would cause the manifold pressure line to blow off though.

Anyone had similar?

MN GLX-R auto, stock except for a 3" Outlaw exhaust.

[Cowboy Dave]

What if the hose was loose and leaking and that caused a mis-reading and therefore surging? Just a theory but maybe try a cable tie around it to get a firm fit and see if it still does it?

[PhillipJ]

If I back off quickly enough the surging goes away without blowing the hose off so I think the surging is causing the hose to blow off. I'll take it off properly and give it bit of a clean and see how that goes.

Not too keen to clamp it on because it doesn't look like there's supposed to be a clamp so I was thinking maybe it's a last-ditch overboost protection. It's actually separating at a joiner halfway between the manifold and the sensor.

[PhillipJ]

Can someone have a look at their MAP line on a 2.5 and see if the hose has a joiner and if so, if it's clamped?
Links to a couple photos of mine below.

First one is what it looks like after the joiner has separated.
https://imgur.com/gtX0sDy,RSuGcG7#1

Second is what it looks like when the two parts are pushed together. No clamp but it could have fallen off the first time they separated.
https://imgur.com/gtX0sDy,RSuGcG7#0

[Cowboy Dave]

I doubt any of them come with a clamp mate. My point was that once it's been off once or twice it isn't going to be gripping as much as it used to. A quick cable tie around each hose will give it that little bit extra traction that might stop it from coming apart. If it's going to blow off from some sort of overpressure then it can still blow off at the MAP sensor or the engine end if it really wants to. At least if the hose is staying on and it isn't leaking you can rule that out as a cause of the other issues.

[PhillipJ]

I think you're right about most not having a clamp, all the photos I can find show them as a once-piece line, no joiner at all.

Anyways, your cable tie suggestion seems to be keeping it together for now and a new fuel filter seems to have fixed the surging/starving at high boost. Probably they were unrelated but happened at the same time.

The old filter was a Ryco jobbie even though I've taken it to Eagers the last few times it needed work or servicing. I wonder if they're not as good or if I just found some bad fuel.

[L200Shogun]

This is what I found. Am i correct?
If your rear diff is 9" 10 bolt it is 28 spline
and 9.5" 12 bolt it is 31 spline.

(and the mention of 29 spline was a typo?)

[Cowboy Dave]

I think that's correct. I actually ended up counting my splines...

[L200Shogun]

I struggle counting past 10 I only have 10 fingers.
Seems like my 10/2013 MN has 12 bolts on the front of the diff. So 31 spline.

[4wd26]

[quote="schlarpa"]Not sure if I should have stated a new thread but thought I would start here, I have already done some searching but we are looking at buying a Australian Off Road Quantum max weight loaded @ 2400kg. I would love to know if there is any out there doing this with their 2.5MN Triton?? If it wont do it we will probably sell the sedan and end up buying a Pajero

Hi Alian, A mate of mine from Dubbo bought an AOC Quantum, magnificent bit of gear, but he reckoned the prodigious ball weight of over 250kg's was on the limit for his Prado so he moved up to a new Landcruiser. Prado handled it OK but he thought eventually it was going to end in pain. Have you looked at the Bolwell Edge?

Yes the Prado's are only 2500kg. I think the new ones are or will be upgraded to 3000kg. We have friends that have there Quantum with a 220kg tow ball weight but the newer ones(last couple of years) have increased a bit.

Not sure of anyone here with the MN towing one.

BUT "trouble" tows one with a ML which has a towing allowed of 2500kg.

I tow a offroad caravan loaded near the same weight with my ML

and I have a mate with a NS pajero towing a Quantum (again with 2500kg)

There are a few towing larger loads with the MN but depends on where you want to go, I believe this (around 2500kg) is the max for the triton and you have the custom tray/ canopy, so potential to load up the tray combined with high ball weight and longer fulcrum (pivot) point of the MN.

it can do it but a new NW pajero with more power would do it nicer

FYI the MLs are only rated at 2300kg.[/quote]
I beg to differ
In April 2008 the diesel ml's were upgraded to 2500kg towing

So petrol and pre April 08 builds are limited to 2300kg

I have a letter from MMA stating the upgrade as an addon to the factory handbook, this even comes with a part number

[Cowboy Dave]

I struggle counting past 10 I only have 10 fingers.
Seems like my 10/2013 MN has 12 bolts on the front of the diff. So 31 spline.

Strangely enough, when I got underneath mine to count the bolts I found the front of the diff was embossed with something like 9G 28 - which I took to mean 9 inch and 28 spline, because surely that would be too much of a coincidence. Since then I've seen a few others and there doesn't appear to be as much of a pattern to the markings as I'd hoped.

When I had opposite lock put in my ARB rear locker they insisted on having my VIN before ordering the locker (as ARB sells 2 different models depending on the spline count). So presumably they were able to talk to Mitsubishi and work out what diff I had based on the VIN but I don't know how.

[CALMAN09GLXR]

A voltage clamp works by stopping the ECU reading an overboost via the MAP sensor and cutting fuel supply. With a clamp fitted the ECU won't know and won't cut fuel, nor will it log a CEL. Quite common - Google it.

yeah I understand what you are saying but it is the turbosmart product I listed going to do the same thing just mechanically??

[NowForThe5th]

In principle, yes. Concept is similar, but not quite the same as the Dawes valve / Enterprise setup that Tony developed.

[Smokey5159]

Hi there,
Sorry to have caused any consternation re the Tub wiring - and subsequent locking out.

Just to clarify - I did a search for "Tub wiring access" and found next to no real consistent advice (as is the case with many topics covered in forums) - just some sketchy ideas, even in the Forum Directory, that's why I asked.
So would it be possible for someone to steer me to a thread that would have clear instructions/advice on how to get charge cable wires (large capacity) up into the tub and possibly with a photo or two..?
Cheers,
Smokey

[Cowboy Dave]

Try this one mate: http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=17170&p=435964&hilit=splash+guard#p436028

It has been done over and over and over but that was the easiest for me to find since I wrote it.

The hard bit is usually working out the best search terms. I cheated because I knew I used the word splash guard or something like it.

If you want more posts on that I'd search on fuel filler. Or even just filler. Seems stupid I know but if you're going to describe that route that's the distinctive part of the car most likely to turn up in a post.

[Smokey5159]

Hi there Dave - thanks so much for your reply and advice.
Duly noted..!
Smokey

[grandchamp]

Stupid question perhaps but does anyone know how to change the clock on the new my15 sound system? Cant find it anywhere in the guide and ive tried the usual ways and nothing works. The trip computer is fine to change

[OffRoadDave]

I haven't done it for a while but it was either press and hold the menu button then turn the SEL knob, or tap the menu button once and turn the SEL knob to get to the clock option.

[Cage]

I think I'm getting down to the nitty gritty with the dual battery set-up for my camper trailer to run an EvaKool 55L fridge, some low output lighting and a charging point for phone etc.

I'll be using the CTEK D250S Dual DC/DC charger and a Fullriver 120AH AGM battery in a lockable toolbox mounted on the trailer mudguard.

I've decided to do the wiring myself and have read umpteen dozen threads, here and elsewhere, on the right cable to use, with 'experts' proclaiming that you need anything from 6mm Auto cable to 2B&S cable, with the general consensus being that for long runs (mine will be about 12m) 6B&S is the minimum to counter voltage drop.

One seller was offering a ready made kit with 50amp Anderson plugs and a 60amp circuit breaker, and with my very shaky understanding of this elecktrickery stuff it seems to me that the Anderson plug would go into melt down before the circuit breaker tripped.

While doing my price searching I've noticed that 4B&S cable is not that much dearer than 6B&S cable and that is what I've decided to use, with an 80amp circuit breaker at each battery, or would 50amp be better, and 120amp Anderson plugs. The Tycab 4B&S cable is rated at 108amps at 30°C.
I'll use a 50amp Anderson plug to pick up the lead from a solar panel to the D250S charger.

This set-up may be over-kill but I'd rather err that way than the other.

Any comments from those knowledgeable in the auto electrical field would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Kev

[ag9111]

Your dual battery system will never draw 50 amp under normal operting conditions so the first set up is fine.
the circuit breaker will trip under fault well before the plug melts

[Cowboy Dave]

The rating of the circuit breaker doesn't mean it takes that many amps to trip it, rather that means that's what it can cope with. I'm guessing that's what you were thinking when you were saying the andersen plugs would melt before the CB would trip?

Oh and happy birthday Garth for whatever day it was/is.

[ag9111]

Cheers Dave.
Birthday is not till Dec 15
always miss my birthday due to other stuff in dec so bought it fwd

[ag9111]

Cheers Dave.
Birthday is not till Dec 15
always miss my birthday due to other stuff in dec so bought it fwd