Dual Battery choice

Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby biggibbo on Sun Jul 26, 2015 5:10 am

Aquagen0 wrote:
biggibbo wrote:Nope. The VSR sends power to the 2nd battery from the first battery once the first battery reaches a certain voltage under charge from the alternator (about 13..4) When the voltage drops below charging rate, the VSR cuts the link to the second battery to protect the starting battery from draining.

Accessories are wired to the secondary battery to protect the starting battery.
If you remove the second battery and wire accessories to the second battery output terminal on the VSR they will only get power when the alternator is sending charge. If wiring to the starter side of the VSR to get power all the time, you might as well wire direct to the main battery.

There should be power at the output side of the vsr while the start battery is above 12.8v ish. And there should be power at the output side of the vsr while the 2bd battery is plugged in as I'm assuming power flows in both directions. My aim is to have rear lights running off vsr for reversing, but also getting power from dual battery for camping.



Check what your VSR cut out is. Mine drops back at 12.8v like you say, which is about 2 mins after shutting down the motor. You might find if running light etc it will cut out pretty quickly. If you only want for reverse lights in theory should work as you want.
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Dual Battery choice

Postby SEJ GLX-R on Sun Jul 26, 2015 5:15 am

Aquagen0 wrote: Just wondering if anyone has an idea how to run accessories off a dual battery vsr. I'm guessing if I install a buzz bar in the engine bay with fuses attached to the vsr, power from the 2nd battery in the tub will flow back to the vsr and out to the accessories.... And if I remove the dual battery in tub, I will have power to the accessories until the vsr opens? Is this correct?


Yes your idea will work and for a system with a removable 2nd battery, I think it's not a bad idea.

While the engine is running without the second battery in, all will work normally. If you have been running your camp lights and forget to switch them off, (as I seem to do a lot), once you shut the engine down and the VSR cuts out, the camp lights etc. will just go off and you'll still be able to start the Triton in the morning.

When you have the second battery in and connected, once the VSR cuts out, your camp lights etc. will run off the second battery's power just as a normal dual battery setup would.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby snakesoup on Sun Jul 26, 2015 7:40 am

^^^^yep this works just fine ! and is a good way of doing it..;-)
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Aquagen0 on Sun Jul 26, 2015 10:10 am

Cheers. I remember reading this is how you power fridges without a built in low voltage cut out a while ago but couldn't find it. Next project sorted
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Kingjw2001 on Tue Nov 17, 2015 1:31 pm

Click to view larger picture
Getting there
Click to view larger picture
I wanted a compressor, 100ah battery, ctek, breaker, fuse block, jump back switch and 2 cig plugs ( not installed but the ss plate up top of top photo is where it will be) behind my back seat. But I didn't want to disturb the jack, middle lap sash seat belt or child restraint anchors. So trawled through a few members builds and with credit to snoozy came up with this. I had to lift the compressor up so it cleared the seat belt spool.
SS tray to have battery anchors welded and holes drilled to run the cables underneath so it's all neat.
will post again when finished.

Note battery was only placed there for the purpose of the photos. Agm battery will be used.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby snakesoup on Tue Nov 17, 2015 4:09 pm

looks great man
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Cowboy Dave on Tue Nov 17, 2015 5:55 pm

Is that battery a sealed AGM battery? I couldn't tell from the picture but the lines on the outside about filling level made me think it was just an ordinary lead acid battery. If it is the latter I wouldn't want it in the cabin with me.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby snowman on Tue Nov 17, 2015 5:58 pm

Cowboy Dave wrote:Is that battery a sealed AGM battery? I couldn't tell from the picture but the lines on the outside about filling level made me think it was just an ordinary lead acid battery. If it is the latter I wouldn't want it in the cabin with me.


read the last line of his post CD.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby banksy on Tue Nov 17, 2015 6:04 pm

Cowboy Dave wrote:Is that battery a sealed AGM battery? I couldn't tell from the picture but the lines on the outside about filling level made me think it was just an ordinary lead acid battery. If it is the latter I wouldn't want it in the cabin with me.



Left click on the picture = :o
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby coughy on Tue Nov 17, 2015 6:28 pm

Cowboy Dave wrote:Is that battery a sealed AGM battery? I couldn't tell from the picture but the lines on the outside about filling level made me think it was just an ordinary lead acid battery. If it is the latter I wouldn't want it in the cabin with me.


oh dave come on put glasses on old m8 :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Use this Second ;) ;)Then still no Joy Go Here
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Cowboy Dave on Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:05 pm

It didn't say that originally. I went back and checked before I posted. Unless I am going blind. More.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby RHKTriton on Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:16 pm

The slippin CD! :lol:
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby ICKIS on Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:46 pm

I have used a projector dual battery kit from ebay in 2 of my vehicles.

It comes with 8m of 140amp positive and earth leads, a voltage sensitive relay VSR and easy install instructions. I have also used 2 150 re-settable circuit breakers , one each end (aux battery in tray) also wire digital volt metres at each battery and also in dash for each battery.

This has worked very well for over 2 years and very cheap.... $105 delivered for the projector kit and around $20 each for the circuit breakes. digital voltmeter are aroung $5 each. and yes the circuit breakers and voltmeters come from China but have proven reliable. Just had to wait 3 - 4 weeks to see them.....

I use a 120amp hr deep cycle aux battery to run all canopy / work lights / waeco fridge and have dual 12 sockets and anderson plugs also mounted in tub. I have 3 of the work lights wired to dash switches from the tub.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Kingjw2001 on Tue Nov 17, 2015 9:07 pm

Cowboy Dave wrote:It didn't say that originally. I went back and checked before I posted. Unless I am going blind. More.

Sorry cd that's the original.
Someone else got pulled up on it in another thread so I had to put that in.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby smouch1975 on Fri Nov 20, 2015 9:40 pm

D34 optima yellow top, housed in an arb chassis rail box
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Big Mike on Sat May 14, 2016 2:15 pm

hi Guys had a quick scan through this topic and couldn't find my answer, i wondering if its a could idea idea to but the batteries, Solar charger, battery charger and inverter in a tool box or cargo box
Cheers in advance Mike
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Duck on Sun May 15, 2016 2:42 pm

century n70t wet, 100 a/h dee cycle mounted on the draw bar. Redarc sbi12.
Bucket loads of power & overkill for me, but hate the feeling of running out of power.
Seem to be seeing a lot more lithium stuff around now. Next level kind of gear.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby tondo12 on Tue Jun 07, 2016 1:49 am

This has probably been asked before i apologize now.
I want to get a ArkPak for the tray, and have that as my 2nd battery with isolator and that
Has anyone done this before, or does anyway know if it will work the same as a dual battery?
Having the arkpak would benefit more int he long run.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby NowForThe5th on Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:38 am

If you use an AGM battery then it should work just fine. You may need a suitable charging regulator if charging from your cranking battery via the main battery terminals.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby rokster on Tue Jun 07, 2016 4:04 pm

Tondo.. I've got a setup like what you want, and it works perfectly for me.

I'll try and draw up a diagram.. much to much to type it all out !
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby tondo12 on Tue Jun 07, 2016 4:38 pm

rokster wrote:Tondo.. I've got a setup like what you want, and it works perfectly for me.

I'll try and draw up a diagram.. much to much to type it all out !


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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby nads triton on Sun Nov 27, 2016 6:19 pm

Has anyone got any pics of where they have mounted there isolator under the bonnet?
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Overbank on Tue Jan 17, 2017 5:05 pm

G'day all, I've got a 2013 MN. Does it have a "smart" alternator? Need to know if I need a DC-DC charger or if a normal VSR will do the trick.
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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby timwilli99 on Mon Jan 23, 2017 8:28 pm

Hey guys. I've got a ctek d250s installed in the MN tub, running pretty heavy cable back to the starter battery (4 or 6B&S, can't recall), circuit breaker, etc. I've got a 120aH AGM second battery. Solution has been working really well for a few years. I've had a look through the ctek instructions, and thought I would try the forum before contacting Bainbridge...

I now need to run an extension lead and Anderson plug on the tow bar for trailer power. I'm wondering if I should connect the extension lead to the incoming positive/negative from the starter battery, or to the outgoing terminals of the ctek, or the terminals on the 2nd battery? I've got a hardwired compressor so I'm not sure what other items I might run

I'm unsure if I can run a third battery in a basic trailer without a second ctek (or similar), simply relying on the ctek in the tub to charge both 2nd and third batteries. Additionally if a borrow a mates trailer with a redarc BCDC in it, will it need direct power from the starter?

Anyone run a similar setup and have worked through a solution? Cheers

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Re: Dual Battery choice

Postby Snooozy on Wed Jan 25, 2017 8:43 pm

I run a 2nd Ctek in the trailer. that way the voltage drop is not an issue.
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