12V Power Into Tray

Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby WWWobbly on Mon Jan 20, 2014 5:55 pm

At this stage just a 40 litre Engel fridge. I'm probably going to need some power for just low power, work/LED lights as well and other stuff not conceived yet. I think a spotlight would be good up there.
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby Hondon on Mon Jan 20, 2014 6:13 pm

sweet..
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby WWWobbly on Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:45 pm

Found another hole!

Just beware that these cars don't like having the trim yanked off them and replaced all the time.

But right at the very back lower corners of the MN cab is one blank bung that accesses the gap between the tub and the cab...

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Stick your hand in that hole and feel straight back for the rubber bung...

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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby Cowboy Dave on Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:22 pm

Also easy access by removing plastic above/in front of rear wheels
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby emjayar on Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:57 pm

I tried taking the trim off and having a hunt around for something similar in an ML but failed. I ended up running the cable along the chassis rails and up behind the tails lights and then behind the Tub Liner.
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Re: Can't find it? Ask here FIRST, before you start a new th

Postby Pearcie45 on Tue Jun 16, 2015 10:23 am

So long story short, I've got a toolbox runnibg lengthwise from the passenger wheel arch to the tailgate. Thinking of bolting some mdf inside the toolbox and running from the 2nd battery into here and having this as a distribution panel. Trying to work out how to get into the toolbox. Would there be any issues drilling say 2 or maybe even 3 holes through the bottom of the toolbox and tub and bring the cables for everything through them?

This way gives me a spot to have distribution panel and access to pretty much the whole car by running underneath through the chassis. Should also be neat too as nothing will be coming up and over the tub between it and the cab.
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby smouch1975 on Sun Nov 08, 2015 8:46 pm

Click to view larger picture

Ok somebody humour me
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby Cowboy Dave on Sun Nov 08, 2015 9:03 pm

Either he learned how to pull the light off (ie straight back with force) or he went in up the front near the fuel filler pipe and up under the rail.
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby aquagen on Mon Nov 09, 2015 9:27 am

Would be better off running anderson plug at the back for fridges. Cut the end off your fridge cable and change over. Then you know it will never rattle out, and 50amp plug can handle it, can run a compressor off it if you want rather than pop the bonnet
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby smouch1975 on Mon Nov 16, 2015 5:30 pm

aquagen wrote:Would be better off running anderson plug at the back for fridges. Cut the end off your fridge cable and change over. Then you know it will never rattle out, and 50amp plug can handle it, can run a compressor off it if you want rather than pop the bonnet

This is interesting. Yes I have done the change to Anderson on the fridge lead (waeco).

I actually retained the cig lighter plug.
Put it in the reverse of the anderson.

I also have a waeco solar panel. This actually came with anderson connectors
Still had to change from grey to red but....
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby kxboss on Mon Nov 16, 2015 6:32 pm

I ran power cable from second battery under bonnet down through the engine bay then through a hole in the chassis and all the way to the rear. inside the chassis rail and now will run as suggested up through the back of the tail light into the tub.
I used a very long piece of nylon or plastic strip, just taped the cable flat with heaps of tape but small enough to get past the bends and pipes and stuff in the chassis don't know what it is or what its off, I found it years ago and kept it for things like this.
will throw some grommets on the front where it enters the chassis rail.
Oh and be careful, there are sharp edges inside the chassis rail.
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby snakesoup on Mon Nov 16, 2015 6:39 pm

yellow tongue?. chipboard flooring joiner strip! great for pulling wires
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby smouch1975 on Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:23 pm

A snake
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby jasonnewbie on Mon Nov 16, 2015 7:54 pm

I have run a sheatehed 6mm twin core wire from the battery via a 30 amp self resetting circuit breaker (maybe 50, I'll have to check for you) to the rear of the car to an anderson plug where i have my trailer plug . This way i can use it for keeping my battery in my camper trailer topped up (always charged first) I have an anderson plug on my camper trailer to my battery in the trailer which goes to my fridge. Now i have got a 5 meter cable 6mm sheathed twin core wiith anderson plug at one end and cigarette lighter at the other which i can plug my engel fridge into for day trips(at the rear of the car) This is what i use, i just feed the cable into the back of the tailgate, but if i need to i can pull it out of the back to somewhere closer for ease. The engel has a cutout when voltage gets too low. Although i dont have a second battery set up, i have a battery box on board in case of emergency.
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby M.Bas on Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:44 pm

kxboss wrote:I ran power cable from second battery under bonnet down through the engine bay then through a hole in the chassis and all the way to the rear. inside the chassis rail and now will run as suggested up through the back of the tail light into the tub.
I used a very long piece of nylon or plastic strip, just taped the cable flat with heaps of tape but small enough to get past the bends and pipes and stuff in the chassis don't know what it is or what its off, I found it years ago and kept it for things like this.
will throw some grommets on the front where it enters the chassis rail.
Oh and be careful, there are sharp edges inside the chassis rail.
Wife made me explain to the shrink why I had a panic attack shitfit in the driveway, got my finger stuck in the a hole in the chassis. :shock: :shock: :shock: :oops: :oops: :oops: bloody funny now

I don't remember if I or someone else has mentioned this before, but it's best to pull the cables from the front to the back through the chassis. If you do it from back to front you might end up pushing the cabling underneath some baffle at the point where the frame bends upwards at the front wheel. I figured that out after spending hours squeezing 3 16mm diameter flextubes of which 2 were filled with 21mm^2 cabling through the hole in the front of the tub only to get the 2 tubes to the front stuck underneath a baffle in the frame. :roll:
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby kxboss on Wed Nov 18, 2015 6:11 pm

Finished tub power outlet today, engine bay to rear through the chassis up the taillight well but had to drill 10.5 mm hole for the cable into the tub too many kinks and turns to get cable through otherwise, wired an Anderson plug and am testing evakool 60litre fridge now installed in tub, garage fridge has died so I will have nice cold beer tomorrow, wife can have warm rum and coke, oh so ima sook I put some coke in the evakool for her as well, I do like to eat. :D :lol: :D
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby kevin on Thu Nov 19, 2015 4:18 pm

I like to avoid drilling holes if possible so I have run a zero gauge cable inside conduit tube from the engine bay and up through the LH front corner of the tub (wasn't easy but do-able); a 7 core trailer cable also from engine bay and up through the rear LH corner of the tub (very fiddly and needs patience!) and then a twin core also in conduit from one aux battery (there are 2 x 100 AH) in the tub up through the RH front corner and then thru the bung hole in the back of the cabin. Why zero gauge I hear you ask - I have a portable hitch receiver type winch; can crank the car from any one of 3 batteries; and the 3000W inverter drives my inductive cooktop and toaster very nicely :lol: Oh - and also powers a 1000W microwave used at a charity event (Relay for Life) once a year!
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Re: 12V Power Into Tray

Postby smouch1975 on Sat Nov 28, 2015 2:19 pm

Twin core 8bs up the back of the light route is achievable. Tight but can be done

Tears the outer sheath a little
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