DMS Piggy Back Test Results

[hicko]

I have been keeping a record of how this project has gone from day one so here goes.
First I’ll start with the installation
This was quite easy, the injectors are unplugged and the corresponding wire are plugged in.
Then there is the power hook up , I was not that keen in cutting into the computer harness as this was always going to be a temp installation. I have already set up another fuse box which is located under the dash.
After it was installed and on the first run there was a hesitation or miss at about 3000rpms but by the time I got home again that had gone.
The first run was not that impressive I was running big wheels and tyres and it was pumping out heaps of black smoke, so I don’t turn it on much until I had it on the dyno. Before the dyno I changed the wheel back to the standard ones which made a difference to the power and torque. Boost only was at 14psi max and that was causing the heaps of black smoke. I installed a manual boost controller and boost gauge, I slowly increased the boost up to 20 psi and the power increase was unbelievable. I was waiting till I could get it back on the dyno so I can see how the dyno figures go. I’ve just clocked 8000kms with the DMS and I have managed to do some real fuel economy tests. Before the installation the car computer would sit on 10.5 lts /100kms but now after 8000kms its on 9.7 which equals about 50kms per tank extra. Now don’t get me wrong here but if you drive just the same as you have before then you will get about the same fuel saving. For me it is really really hard not to push the accelerator just that bit further to show that young punk in his Hilux – commodore or whatever that the Triton is not that slow. If you want to drag every car of at the lights, than the fuel economy will suffer. But it is a great feeling when you do and you drive straight passed them.
This is the best performance upgrade that you can get for just a plug in upgrade. Here are the dyno figures to prove it.



The top GREEN line is rear wheel Kws and Hp- 133.8 Kw or 179.5Hp with DMS Piggy Back
Next or blue line is rear wheel Kws and Hp 102kws or 135 Hp stock standard
Next GREEN line is rear wheel Nms torque 430mns with DMS
Next BLUE line is rear wheel Nms torque 303nms standard
So that’s 33% increase in kws and 40% increase in torque
The torque figures show that this will give excellent towing power.
The black smoke has reduced back to what a standard diesel would be.
Also a temperature reading was done after the Triton was taken for a road test and they are quite acceptable.

Exhaust temp at tail pipe 260˚ and at 370˚at turbo.
Air temp at the time of reading was 23˚and I was not towing anything.


I did have trouble with the carbon build up but since I have cleaned it out all is well.
I am pushing for a bulk buy of 5 DMS Piggy Back from Monster Triton and if I can get another 4 more interested buyers he will throw in a “Smart Gauge’ with the deal for each one which is worth about $250. The “Smart Gauge” monitors all sorts of things from the motor.
I have already bought one of these.
These DMS Piggy Backs aren’t cheap $AU1600 and for that you get-
Electronic boost cut controller. This stops the motor from shutting down and going into limp home mood when the ECU shows over boost at 18psi + , and DMS Piggy Back
The DP chip is around the same price and with not the same increase in power and torque. (If anyone has a DP chip and had it on the dyno they can put me straight on that.)
On top of that you will need a manual turbo boost controller which will cost about $60 dollars.
Now these things in the present form are not that easy to hide from the dealers for servicing, as you have to cut a couple of wires where they are noticeable but I have managed to work out how to install them with a few push in electric connection. This will make it easy to remove for servicing and all that will be visible is a few push in connectors that go nowhere. The whole set up can be removed for servicing very easily, and replaced when servicing is finished.
I’m so impressed with these DMS Piggy Backs that I’m going to purchase the tuning soft ware so I can tune them in house.
If anyone on the Sunshine Coast or in Brisbane is interested in taking my Triton for a run, drop me a PM and I will arrange a test drive.
There is such an improvement in power over standard that it is a real pleasure to drive.
For you guys that have had an exhaust upgrade this will really give you an increase in power.
My Triton is stock standard and these are very impressive figures. Everyone that drives my Triton can't believe the deference it makes. If you do come to the Sunshine Coast do yourself a favour an take My Triton for a run you will enjoy the ride.
I have taken a while to write this up because I wanted to get the facts right first. All the above is just my opinion and observations only.
Hicko

[MonsterTriton]

nice, 45+hp and 127NM of torque increase.
very impressive.
thats still with std exhaust...

[Homer]

Sounds like a bloody rocket hicko!

On ya

[ML-VR08]

I agree, wonder what it will go like with 33's?????

[MonsterTriton]

std power to the fly, 165hp
350nm of torque

Increase power at the wheels on std fly output,
45hp increase (165+45= 210HP fly rating)
127nm increase (350+127= 477nm fly rating)


but we can see from std result rating of 165hp to a 135whp on the dyno, is a 22.275% tranmission drag loss,
(thus for an acurate hp and torque reading to the fly would indeed in actually fact be,
45+22.275% =(10hp) 55hp fly output increase.
127+22.275% =(28nm) 155nm fly output increase.

Thus final std fly readings would be,
165+55 =220HP (fly)
350+155 =505Nm (fly)


WOW garry you got it packing now!!!!

[hicko]

I agree, wonder what it will go like with 33's?????

I'm going to put the big wheel back on over the weekend so that will be interesting to see how it goes then. 32's

[MonsterTriton]

how did it run with the 32"s?

[Homer]

Hi all, I had a spin in Hicko's truck today with the piggyback and 32" tyres on.

I have no ulterior motives or anything. As you may have read I have been following this with interest and just thought it worth making some time to have a spin in one of our Triton's that someone has put a bit of time and effort into - especially one with 133kw!
And as everyone here knows I tend to yap a bit more than Hicko so would give a decent unbiased report - as diesels suck!

Well.....I like it!

It pulls really hard from about 1500rpm right through to a bit over 4000 - at first I was changing early because I didn't think the oilers would rev like that.
The power delivery was smooth and most surprisingly it was constant. By that I mean it was pulling as hard at say 3900rpm as it was at 2500rpm, something I haven't experienced with a diesel before.

The torque was obviously very good (look at the numbers on his dyno sheet!) and it did approximately 80/90kph roll on up a hill very easily - had to ease off because it wanted to pull over 120kph.....and then some.

Without going into it in too much detail, my conclusion, as painful as it is to say, is if I had my time again I would be buying a diesel and putting this piggyback on it (I will deny any knowlege of this statement from this point on).

I think the comparison was pretty good, as he had a switch to turn it on and off so the comparison between stock and piggyback assisted could be tested.

Anyone who wants a quick vehicle, safely done, or tows with their Triton would be worthwhile looking at this mod as it delivers plenty. I'm sure he would be happy to provide test drives if people are near enough as the product speaks for itself.

With the standard size tyres it would haul arse and almost be under geared. I think an auto would suit so you didn't have to change so quickly when giving it the berries.

After talking for a bit about 'stuff' I found out that during his 2 dyno and testing days they checked air/fuel mixtures for engine safety and a variety of other things including best boost pressures etc to really work out the product as it was a test vehicle, and I haven't seen anyone do this with the chips? He had to sign a waiver because the guy didn't want to do some of the tests Hicko wanted.

As a bonus he is looking at also getting a tuning package so each car can be tuned to whatever conditions you would like - this piggyback was pre-programmed by Monster before it was sent.

On a positive note for every one, his tuner who is experienced with performance engines and diesels was glowing in his praise for the 3.2 saying it was streets ahead of the competition (it was the first he'd done). He was apparently VERY surprised that he could get 22 psi out of such a small turbo - I thought it was an exhaust flange when I first saw it - dead set dinky little thing!. Pffft almost not a turbo at all if you ask me!

It's worth giving him a pm about it all - even about how the 3.2 went standard and what they found max safe boost should be standard etc as I'm reading guys on here maybe exceeding it.



Now on the down side:

Although Hicko's truck is one of the 'White Knights' it was the first time Snowflake had "interacted' with one of her own.

So after I gave Hicko's a bit of a run and crawled around and poked and prodded we jumped in mine for a blat. Less than 1 km up the road and the check engine light comes on. It wasn't even warmed up and Hicko hadn't even dropped the hammer!
It has only ever come on twice before - once flogging it at altitude and another time at 170kph. But she decided to embarrass me - I just knew it was a female!

Anyway Hicko hooked up his scanguage (not a scanguage but the same thing - can't remember the name) and she was showing code PO303.
Hicko cleared it and is going to look this up for me, but he needn't bother. It will say Fecking jealous bitch!

She can bloody well keep the bash plate on backwards for another week now! Might even give her a dose of regular unleaded or E10, frikken sooky temperamental..........

[MR T]

you are one funny bugga hommo

[snowman]

no saltblock for 'flake' tonight!!!!

ok i want to throw something else into the mix here. i am no mechanic (my disclaimer) but i am throwing it out to some mechs, or more mechanically qualified, out there (including you monster but you are right at the end of the mods scale and i am after something a little more 'moderate' with my vehicle).

the exhaust gas temp (EGT) issue has been discussed and i was previously advised, particularly by owners of melted aftermarket turbo diesels, that you should definately get EGT monitoring for your vehicle if playing with boost and fuel quantities. it is also reasonable to say that 'most' decent aftermarket 'chips' have considered the EGT temps in their programming and hence the more limited gains in their performance.

however engine basics 101 was explained to me that the top end is the power and the bottom (or big) end is the strength. due to diesel high comp ratios i believe that the diesel motors are built with better tolerances and strength to cope with these issues. but the more power you develop over a period of time, effects the strength and ultimately reliability of the engine. i get the feeling with modern fuels and oils that modern motors last much longer than the rest of the car, particularly the diesels, so the difference between getting 400,000 and 500,000klms is probably not a big deal.

so monster is developing massive power and tourque from a 4 cyliner 3.2 litre motor, but probably also prepared to rebuild his motor in the not too distant future and probably not a big deal to him in his industry. but i am not too keen to spend probably over 5k to rebuild mine. it seems that in many cases these motors are undertuned and some are comparing the same motors in the pajeros (but with a bigger turbo?) at 147kw.

so does anyone have any experience or comments in what is considered a reasonable power increase for these DID3.2 motors whilst retaining some form of long term reliability?

[MonsterTriton]

sure thing mate,
first of i do have an egt gauge on my truck,
my egt has never exceeded 680*c. std turbo goes up to 650*c, melting point is 850-900*c.
egt, is an issue when you are running lean or rich, but if you keep ratio of fuel to air,
there are generally no problems with a diesel.
but if you are running high egt expect the pistons to melt.

now after saying that,

i can say with experince and in the industry our engine can handle 3bar boost for a long long time,
so far we have clicked 150,000km with full 300hp mods my customers built trucks with no problems. but mind you they do change engine oil, filters and tranmission oils about every 7000km. fully senthetic, and usually a 0 wat 60 grade, for minimum friction but maximum temp rating.

but in hyperthoetical cases,
lets say you dont want to compraimise anything at all, then 250hp is a very nice reliable mark.
anything over 275hp with start to create tranmission slip etc etc, and alot more condirations.

mind you my 312hp triton didnt take over night to build, it took alot of calculations, research and experince to build to that point. but i offer full free advice to anyone who wants to build there truck. as we speak i am doing all approriate actions to build myself a custom COMPOUND TURBO KIT!
and i am about to change to the
shogun bigbox 5speed manual, with a modified nismo rb26 skyling GTR sport clutch.

just mentioning this i can imagen what you guys must think of me,
but hey its alot of hardddddddddd work.

[hicko]

the exhaust gas temp (EGT) issue has been discussed and i was previously advised, particularly by owners of melted aftermarket turbo diesels, that you should definately get EGT monitoring for your vehicle if playing with boost and fuel quantities. it is also reasonable to say that 'most' decent aftermarket 'chips' have considered the EGT temps in their programming and hence the more limited gains in their performance.

That’s a couple of good points.
And I am no mechanic either. (my disclaimer)
The testing was carried out by Rod Chapman in Cooroy. He sell DP chips and he has a tuning programme for the DP. IF he sells you a DP chip he will tune it to your requirements. He has had 3.2 Pajeros on the dyno before but my Triton was the first one he has done.
When I first started testing this chip, the last thing that I wanted was a motor rebuild, so I was a bit conservative with the boost increase and running with the chip turned on until I had a dyno carried out and this is not a cheap exercise, about $200 each time. Since installation I have had 2 dynos carried out with deferent results. The first one showed massive over fuelling under hard acceleration right through the rev range, this is because the chip was pumping in heaps of fuel. Result was 135 HP at rear wheels a gain of about 30HP.
At this point I was advised not to run with the chip turned on unless a manual boost controller (MBC)was fitted to increase the air fuel ratio.
Off I went and purchased a MBC and waited until I could get it on the dyno again (Which was about a month because he went on holidays and when he returned the dyno was booked out for another two weeks.)
Next dyno I asked him to carry out a few more tests.
First a run standard and these figures where the same as the first run on the dyno first time.
Second was a run with the MBC turned up to 19psi without the chip turned on and showed that the HP was the same but came in a bit earlier, at higher revs the AFR was heaps to lean and the AFR line on the dyno chart went right of the chart. So prolonged use like this would cause a lot of heart ache,and this was the opposite to the over fuelling on the earlier dyno.
Third run was the full Monty, and I ask him to increase the boost gradually up to 22psi. He said that was a bit high in his opinion but I had signed a waver so he did what I had asked.( by the way his comment was that 3lt Nissan Patrols run at about 20psi boost standard)
As the test proceeded the AFR changed with every extra psi increase up until it was at the 22psi that I was after. All during the testing on the dyno I was asking questions about deferent things. Once the dyno was completed, I asked about AFR results and in his opinion of the end result was the AFR was ideal mix right through the rev range. He compared the results of a new Navara with a DP chip that he had on the dyno earlier and it run a lot more fuel through at higher revs.
As for the EGT the readings he had taken where done with a thermal thermometer at the turbo and on the exhaust end so not very accurate because I don’t have a probe in the exhaust. He also indicated that with the AFR as it was, over heated exhaust should not be a problem.

[MR T]

sorry hommer i didnt mean to write that i ment to write homma

[Homer]

The O is a long way from the A on the keyboard mate!

It's all good MrT no offence was taken

It's all a bit of fun

You should hear what the mates and missus call me.

[MonsterTriton]

the nissan navara and petrols run about 1.3-1.4bar std.
why do you think the motor is rated higher hp for less cc.
because they run std boost high.

[chong75]

hi,monster. i am clement for east malaysia (borneo). my ride is 2.5 automatic triton with vector plug &play piggy +manual boost controller.i had done the free flow downpipe to 3" and just blocked the EGR today after reading this forum. After reading your post, i had great understanding about the DMS and my plug and play piggy. i have set the vector to the highest setting and it gives me hell lots of black smoke, i cant adjust the boost over 1.4+bar as the engine checklight will on and cant accerarate past 2000rpm. it really piss me off. knowing that the DMS can solve my problem, so can you email me the brother price for the DMS and the boost cut thing separately. my email is clementchong1975@yahoo.com. can you quote in thai batt or malaysia ringgit please. if the price is within my budget , i will get them all at once otherwise i will have to get the boost cut first and the the DMS lo! brother price pleaseeeee.......

[hicko]

I had the chance to do some towing on the weekend.
I had to tow a 3ton mini excavator up the highway 120kms and back this week.
Sat on 110kms an hour no worries and still had power to accelerate.
Come to a hill and once the revs dropped below 2000rpms the power got a bit doey. Change back to 4th gear and all the power came back. The OME computer read 12.5 and 13.5 at its worst and that is usually reading between .5 and 1lt per 100km higher than it is really using. I am very happy with the towing power. It was a real pleasure to be able to keep up with the traffic and not struggle on the hills. The Triton is only rated at 2500 but it towed the excavator with ease.

[windsurftriton]

I run a DMS on my triton and will be fitting a 3 inch exhaust in july i'll keep you posted with the results

[amalinze]

I just installed my DMS and boost cut module over the weekend. And I'll try and describe my experiance this morning when i took it for a test drive. Weather raining by the way.

Started car, Tromped it. Black smoke. Ooooppppsssss. forgot to increase boost. Wound boost up to 23psi. Tromped it again. I was pushed back in my seat more then any diesel i have ever owned or driven (and more then a lot of the petrols too) Amazed by the power increase. Its off the chart. Went around a corner, Tromped it again and Thankful to All Wheel Drive, Once again discovered what a 4WD Power drift on tar is like. Awesome. May have to tame myself. 22 inch tyres are not cheap, and i can see these going fast.

Mate of mine had a drive and thinks its not like a diesel anymore, power is too instant and too much of it. (makes me kinda wish i had suspension so i could see how fast it goes not just acceleration)

I'll be putting it on my mates dyno soon so i can post the exact results, not just the "seat of pants" result. BTW the "seat of pants" result is brown and smelly. This thing ROCKS! Highly recommended.

Anyone near Singleton is welcome to take mine for a test drive to see what its like. As long as you can drive and have a strong back.

[chong75]

cant wait to have my DMS and boostcut and boost speed to be installed in my 2.5 auto ,dont know how will it preform in my ride??

[MonsterTriton]

yea it will perform like a bat out of hell!
haha

i am very appreciative about your results and more so, your satisfaction with our DMS piggyback thanks .

amalinze.

[chong75]

hikko!!!!!

this afternoon, i was trying to prepare some job for the dms-1 ( preprepare while waiting for it to arrive), i found that the triton ecu is secure in the left lower front passenger side, i cant access to the wire harness because of a steel casing secure by a few screws which are without grip ( they seem like they had been machined to prevent any one to mess with the ecu) . how are you going to unscrew the headless/ gripless screws..

thks chong75

[amalinze]

I'm assuming you mean the plug to the ecu that you clip the two wires onto? you dont undo the screws. the plastic clips pull towards the front and back of the car. Probably would not do this until you have the DMS though. No point. Read the instructions carefully, they describe how to undo the plug in detail.

BTW Hicko will reply faster if you PM him. Have fun and blue skies!

[hicko]

hikko!!!!!

this afternoon, i was trying to prepare some job for the dms-1 ( preprepare while waiting for it to arrive), i found that the triton ecu is secure in the left lower front passenger side, i cant access to the wire harness because of a steel casing secure by a few screws which are without grip ( they seem like they had been machined to prevent any one to mess with the ecu) . how are you going to unscrew the headless/ gripless screws..

thks chong75

I have PMed you a full set of instructions that I have modified
They are a bit easier to follow.
Hicko

[chong75]

THANKS MATE, APPRECIATE IT.
clement