Broken Wheel Stud.

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Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Deeredriver on Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:26 pm

I need to change at least one of the rear studs on my L200 (ML).
While rotating the wheels yesterday one of the studs gave way, I knew I was going to have problems as I needed a breaker bar to get the studs undone. These were most likely over tightened by the tyre fitters. There was no way they were only 129 nm's.
I didn't have time to remove the drum last night but I was wondering if the stud can be replaced in situ, i.e is there clearance between the hub and back plate to get the new stud in.

Thanks for any help, Deeredriver.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby snowman on Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:12 pm

i believe the rear drums can be done on the car but the fronts have to be removed. The guy who did mine mentioned something about the rear drum assembly having softer metal and easier to do on the car. but the front hubs were harder and needed removing from the vehicle to press in.

The studs are a replaceable unit and can be purchased individually from Mits. From memory the front and rears were different part numbers to order (don't quote me) but they are actually the same item and identical front and rear.

if one has broken then consider replacing them all (or at least all wheels that were tight) as some will be beyond the point of no return already. mine took 30,000klms and about three additional rattle guns tightens to come to light but two ended up breaking off when doing up by hand brace..... :evil:

you would think tyre fitters would know better.........obviously not.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Deeredriver on Mon Jan 17, 2011 10:23 pm

Thanks Snowman.
I'll be changing all of them as a matter of course. I've got a feeling some of the others were 'stretching' rather than tighening.
I was going to make a tool up, a bit like a ball joint remover so hopefully I'll be able to press them out in on the truck.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby ag9111 on Tue Jan 18, 2011 5:47 am

Front and rear studs are different. The collar or something is slightly longer, on the rears, to clear the brake drum thickness. Both stubs are the same lenght so be careful
Last edited by ag9111 on Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby ultimate on Tue Jan 18, 2011 8:17 am

I agree. Change all of the studs and be careful with the part numbers.

You have the choice of either going genuine or aftermarket. When we do our own vehicles, we normally upgrade to longer aftermarket studs to suit a larger variety of rims and get more thread. Have a look at NICE products. They are often cheaper than genuine and better quality. We've used them on rally, armoured and general 4WDS with great success.

http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogu ... /wheel.php
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby snowman on Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:23 pm

ag9111 wrote:Front and rear studs are different. The collar or something is slightly longer, on the rears, to clear the brake drum thickness. Both stubs are the same lenght so be careful


great - something else for me to check. :cry:

ultimate wrote:You have the choice of either going genuine or aftermarket. When we do our own vehicles, we normally upgrade to longer aftermarket studs to suit a larger variety of rims and get more thread. Have a look at NICE products. They are often cheaper than genuine and better quality. We've used them on rally, armoured and general 4WDS with great success.

http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogu ... /wheel.php


now you tell me...... :roll:
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby ultimate on Tue Jan 18, 2011 12:53 pm

now you tell me...... :roll:


:lol: Sorry mate :oops: You beat me to it last time.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby ag9111 on Tue Jan 18, 2011 3:49 pm

snowman wrote:great - something else for me to check. :cry:

now you tell me...... :roll:


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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Homer on Tue Jan 18, 2011 5:34 pm

snowman wrote:
ultimate wrote:You have the choice of either going genuine or aftermarket. When we do our own vehicles, we normally upgrade to longer aftermarket studs to suit a larger variety of rims and get more thread. Have a look at NICE products. They are often cheaper than genuine and better quality. We've used them on rally, armoured and general 4WDS with great success.

http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogu ... /wheel.php


now you tell me...... :roll:


snowman wrote:
now you tell me...... :roll:


:lol: I was thinking the same thing and waiting for it...

Now how did that song go...

An old man turned ninety-eight
He won the lottery and died the next day
It's a black fly in your Chardonnay
It's a death row pardon two minutes too late
And isn't it ironic... don't you think

Ironic
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby snowman on Wed Jan 19, 2011 7:34 am

:roll:

yeah so now i dont know if i have fronts and rears or what.....

that's alright i got a heads up on my canopy install and so i actually looked (sometimes not knowing is bliss) and the "Tek Screws" are coming out...... :evil: :evil: :evil:

pretty much over it all ATM.

....but compared to some of the flood survivors i am positively laughing at the moment. 8-)
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Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby fridgie on Wed Jan 19, 2011 8:38 am

Glad you used the term survivor mate ;)

Getting a bit sick of the negative victim tagline.....

Sorry to hear your having more dramas though, gotta love installers hey :roll:
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Blue on Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:23 am

Homer wrote:
snowman wrote:
ultimate wrote:You have the choice of either going genuine or aftermarket. When we do our own vehicles, we normally upgrade to longer aftermarket studs to suit a larger variety of rims and get more thread. Have a look at NICE products. They are often cheaper than genuine and better quality. We've used them on rally, armoured and general 4WDS with great success.

http://www.niceproducts.com.au/catalogu ... /wheel.php


now you tell me...... :roll:


snowman wrote:
now you tell me...... :roll:


:lol: I was thinking the same thing and waiting for it...

Now how did that song go...

An old man turned ninety-eight
He won the lottery and died the next day
It's a black fly in your Chardonnay
It's a death row pardon two minutes too late
And isn't it ironic... don't you think

Ironic


That song shits me to tears - absolutely nothing ironic (by definition) about anything in it... The only irony is in the fact that there's nothing ironic about it...
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Blue on Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:26 am

BTW, a deadblow hammer will get the rears out in situ, if they are anything like the MK...
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Blue on Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:28 am

Also, gentle tightening as per common wheel refit will pull the splines into the hub, once seated, torque up and go for a short drive and re-torque, monitor torque over next couple of trips...
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby snowman on Wed Jan 19, 2011 12:17 pm

Blue wrote:That song shits me to tears - absolutely nothing ironic (by definition) about anything in it... The only irony is in the fact that there's nothing ironic about it...


big_book_of_irony.jpg


this good enough for you Blue.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Blue on Wed Jan 19, 2011 12:42 pm

snowman wrote:
Blue wrote:That song shits me to tears - absolutely nothing ironic (by definition) about anything in it... The only irony is in the fact that there's nothing ironic about it...


big_book_of_irony.jpg


this good enough for you Blue.


:lol: :lol:
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Deeredriver on Wed Jan 19, 2011 6:39 pm

Blue wrote:BTW, a deadblow hammer will get the rears out in situ, if they are anything like the MK...


I got the truck into my workshop the other night, yes the stud's do come out no problem, there's plenty of room.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Deeredriver on Thu Jan 20, 2011 3:06 am

ag9111 wrote:Front and rear studs are different. The collar or something is slightly longer, on the rears, to clear the brake drum thickness. Both stubs are the same lenght so be careful


I ordered the studs today from the main stealers but they said the front and rears are the same?
So I've just removed one of each from my truck to check and sure enough they are.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby snowman on Thu Jan 20, 2011 2:02 pm

Deeredriver wrote:
ag9111 wrote:Front and rear studs are different. The collar or something is slightly longer, on the rears, to clear the brake drum thickness. Both stubs are the same lenght so be careful


I ordered the studs today from the main stealers but they said the front and rears are the same?
So I've just removed one of each from my truck to check and sure enough they are.


well this was my recollection deeredriver yet AG911 seemed to think there were differences.

mine is an ML as well but Garths is an MN - i wonder if they changed them?????

maybe because the wheels went to 7.5 inch wide? :? :?
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Cowboy Dave on Thu Jan 20, 2011 3:41 pm

Those nice products people that Brendan refer to above have a different part number for the front compared to the rear on the ML. They don't list the MN yet.

Seems odd the Mitsubishi would also have 2 different part numbers if they're all identical. Not ruling it out since oddness is hardly unusual when we're talking Mitsubishi, but still, makes you wonder. :? :?
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby ag9111 on Thu Jan 20, 2011 6:28 pm

I was looking to replace the front drivers as you know Snowy and was told be the parts retailer they were different. He showed me the book and sure enough they are different. Will try to get a copy of his parts manual.
As CD mentioned, MN are not listed yet so this was for the ML. Mitsubishi dont think they will break. :lol:
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Mayhem2015 on Thu Sep 20, 2018 5:14 pm

Has anyone done a front stud themselves? I have one stub with stripped thread. It was cross threaded on install and the mechanic managed one last install last visit. Now it is stuffed. I have another but it looks complicated.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby BillMcQuade on Mon Sep 24, 2018 11:50 am

Mayhem2015 wrote:Has anyone done a front stud themselves? I have one stub with stripped thread. It was cross threaded on install and the mechanic managed one last install last visit. Now it is stuffed. I have another but it looks complicated.


Pretty easy to do, bash the old one out, and you can bash the new one back in.

Caliper and disc have to be removed.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby Mayhem2015 on Mon Sep 24, 2018 3:41 pm

Thanks Bill,

Managed to get it done last night. It was easier than I thought for sure. Didn't even need to take the disc off. Hardest part was getting the new stud flush. Takes a lot of force to draw it in.
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Re: Broken Wheel Stud.

Postby RHKTriton on Fri Sep 28, 2018 9:05 am

Lucky its not a Fraud.

While at one of the auto parts place, the guy said a particular ford ( can't recall model) now has hubs with welded in wheel studs. Essentially a broken stud means the whole hub/axle unit has to be replaced.

Ford are also being sued in the US for defective wheel nuts - made from two parts. Too smart for their own good. :lol:
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