fridgie wrote:Mattstruck wrote:But how could something which doesnt move fatigue???
We all ask YOU that after one of your 'workouts'
fridgie wrote:Mattstruck wrote:But how could something which doesnt move fatigue???
We all ask YOU that after one of your 'workouts'
gauci204 wrote:I really hope this is just a one off type failure. it definitely seems a strange way for it to break.
any chance of finding out when the particular lokka was made/batch number etc?
ive got one in the garage i have been holding onto for nearly a year now waiting for the right time to install it and the longer i wait the more doubt i get in my mind about it.
hopefully when you contact the manufacturers they test it out and stand by their warranty.
chris
Mattstruck wrote:But how could something which doesnt move fatigue???
al coholic wrote:salt36 wrote:That centre pin is held in place by a smaller retaining pin which is positioned in the cage.
The retaining pin is held in place by burring the end of it's hole so it can't come out.
It can only go in one way, the other end of it's hole is blocked by the casting of the cage.
This looks to me like the retaining pin has come out allowing the centre pin to slide and get chopped off by the cage and/or the inside of the diff housing.
This was the failure on mine
The centre pin came out and severely elongated the hole in the carrier.
The installers swore blind it wasn't their fault.....just "one of those things that happen......you know......if you had patrol diffs it would be a different story etc"
Pretty obvious who's fault it was though.......
Reasonably easy fix with Fraz's 2nd hand front diff and $400 to install a 2nd time over.......got out of it reasonably ok
(Although was filthy about paying for installation again.......but that made sure no one but myself will ever work on any of my cars again so will save me money in the long run)
har05l wrote:The elocker is already in the list And TJM/ARB, they're both air so same same
snowman wrote:the poll is obviously at a point in time where these options were not available and also it does not reflect what is available in the vehicles. Therefore there is no "front locker and Traction control only" etc.
if the poll was reset i would bet the answers would be much different just because of current ownership. plenty of those ML owners would now be gone and the newer MN owners would look at the 'traction control / no LSD' type options.
Polls are based on a point in time. things change. this was current then.
snowman wrote:the poll is obviously at a point in time where these options were not available and also it does not reflect what is available in the vehicles. Therefore there is no "front locker and Traction control only" etc.
...snip...
kcdusk wrote:Am i better off getting a diff locker on the front or back diff? I have asked a couple of people i know which i should get and they ask me "which wheels do you think will get bogged?".
Now i'm thinking that since i am often towing, should i get a locker on the rear wheels since they have the most weight on them and therefore the most "drive" when the going gets tough? Is there any sense in this?
Also, are "air" lockers OK to get? Some ppl have said they are not as good (strong?) as a mechanical locker.
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