Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[viking shippy]

We're talking 14psi to 20psi max its not much...and there 50 cents each ..worst thing that could happen is a limply... I think the boys have found some quite good quality ones ,,Also it needs to stay shut when the map gets pressure and open to give some air into the system to fool the egr that there is an opening to the exhaust....

[the d]

I hear you skippy, but when your talking about a .50cent one way valve that is suposed to be used in fish tank air pumps, then 14-20 psi is heaps. These valves are normally used in an open direction to allow air to flow into the fish tank.

but i will still try the cheap ones. thanks for the input

[Cowboy Dave]

I thought Gibbo or someone managed to turn one of the fish tank valves inside out? And then moved onto home brew valves which were a bit more rugged?

[viking shippy]

There you go home brew valve is the go

[chick_magnet_0001]

just thinking out loud atm but i went into the local hose/irrigation shop and picked up one of these with a nut for the back of it that’s only 5mm thick. I’m planning on punching a hole through the rubber reinforced intake hose just before the throttle body push it through then tighten it up from the inside with some lock tight then re-run the map sensor hose to this and block the other port off, in essence it will read up stream of the throttle body which should mean it will read pressures associated with post egr blanking which should fool the map sensor(the only sensor that has been effected with the egr blank) into thinking its back to normal and keep the throttle body open and only close it when the ignition is switched off.
in summary the longranger mod without the welding and blocking off the port on the manifold..

http://www.hoseonline.com.au/popup_image.php?pID=2876
how do u insert pictures from websites into your post again...ive forgotten can a mod fix it for me

[simonb]

I have found what i believe is a good industrial quality check valve. Cracking pressure 0.7 PSI, I can suck it and the seal breaks. It can handle high pressure as well. It is a SMC model AK2000 (1/4" BSP female inlet and outlet port). I will fit it this weekend.

[Quintin79]

Hi All

so i just finished a couple of days worth of researching this thread.

i recently picked up my 08 Triton and it had a nasty flat spot at about 2300rpm, mostly in second gear with very light throttle. sounds about right with all the symptoms i have read. except mine coughed up a lot of blue smoke during the flat spot and as you power out of it. the flat spot also got less aggressive as the car warmed up.

decided to do the EGR blank to see if it would fix it. turns out someone has already done it, its also got the replacement manifold. but it still had the flat spot.

then i read about the "ball bearing" mod on the little hose with the yellow stripe at the front of the engine. all i did was kink it and throw a few zip ties around it. took it for a drive and it was perfect. flat spot gone just like that.

so what i would like to know is what the hell did i do? what is that hose and what SHOULD it be doing. i couldnt find any info on what exactly it did or what the part was.

cheers!

[GLX-R Alex]

Due to a few people asking. I may have some of those things

[the d]

how much are they?

[GLX-R Alex]

...

[hvac guy]

pm sent mr alex

[jamesb_bau]

pm sent mr alex, also..

Thanks alex..

[big_bob_thefirst]

Cheers Alex. Fits nicely.

Tho on tightening the bolts, 1 of them was a bitch to close and not sure I got it all the way down... For the life of me I couldn't figure out why. Bolt had nice threads on it and everything appeared to be lining up.

If its not completely tight, what are the potential problems?

[killa]

Cheers Alex. Fits nicely.

Tho on tightening the bolts, 1 of them was a bitch to close and not sure I got it all the way down... For the life of me I couldn't figure out why. Bolt had nice threads on it and everything appeared to be lining up.

If its not completely tight, what are the potential problems?

Dealer might pick it.

Jiggle the EGR pipe to get the bolts to seat correctly.

[big_bob_thefirst]

Cheers killa. Might (or might not) give it a bit more of a shake.

Assuming I did put it in, the truck runs smoother now anyway.

[Quintin79]

Hi All

so i just finished a couple of days worth of researching this thread.

i recently picked up my 08 Triton and it had a nasty flat spot at about 2300rpm, mostly in second gear with very light throttle. sounds about right with all the symptoms i have read. except mine coughed up a lot of blue smoke during the flat spot and as you power out of it. the flat spot also got less aggressive as the car warmed up.

decided to do the EGR blank to see if it would fix it. turns out someone has already done it, its also got the replacement manifold. but it still had the flat spot.

then i read about the "ball bearing" mod on the little hose with the yellow stripe at the front of the engine. all i did was kink it and throw a few zip ties around it. took it for a drive and it was perfect. flat spot gone just like that.

so what i would like to know is what the hell did i do? what is that hose and what SHOULD it be doing. i couldnt find any info on what exactly it did or what the part was.

cheers!

Bump guys

anyone have the info on this??

thanks

[Cowboy Dave]

I think it's called the swirl control mod. Here's a thread dedicated to it: http://www.newtriton.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6513&hilit=swirl+control+mod

[RHKTriton]

Disabling the flaps (Swirl & throttle) definitely makes a better drive - first off in the morning and in city driving.

That's a good option Chick-M.

What I tried for a while was to simply tap the MAP line into the compressor wastegate actuator output and the wastegate servo into the manifold port.

This should have the MAP measuring the Turbo output all the time and the wastgate only kicking in when the manifold pressure was too high. This seemed to work OK.

The other option - not tried yet - simply T the MAP into the Compressor/Actuator hose and block manifold port. (obviously won't be covert)

[1tuff_triton]

I have read a thousand threads now on this and I think I have confused myself.

I have the big girl in tomorrow to get the manifolds done again and I'm think I need to do something before I run out of warranty. If I do an egr blank do I need to upgrade my chip. I only have a US TDC chip which isn't as flash or programmable as the chip it ones I have been reading about. I just don't want to blank it and then have continual issues. Is this possible

[Cowboy Dave]

There are a couple (well more than a couple) of ways around the problem. Drill a 6mm hole in the throttle body plate. Or tap a T into the MAP sensor line and put a little one way valve on it. After that the cheats get more complicated. There have been a few motors that will run blanked without every throwing a wobbly but there seems little way to pick which ones will cope and which will not other than testing to see what happens.

[1tuff_triton]

If I was more mechanically minded I would be keen to play with this stuff but my mechanical knowledge is very minimal. Is there less issues with a catch can then there is with the blanking plate?

[Cowboy Dave]

Plenty are running catch cans without dramas. Mine kept dripping oil out of the drain line but that could just be my crap plumbing. Some have suggested that the catch cans increase crankcase pressure although the jury still seems to be out on that one. I guess the gold standard would be to run both. At least the catch can is technically legal AFAIK whereas strictly speaking the blank isn't since you're interfering with with the emission control gear. I'm sure one of our Hunter guys would be happy to give a bit of an assist if you felt a bit stuck?

[1tuff_triton]

Yeah a little. I think I read to many posts on both and have just confused the shit out of myself on pluses and minuses of both. Just don't want a truck that's going to start giving me problems

[Cowboy Dave]

Yeah I hear you there. My local mechanic quoted me about $4-500 to do the manifold clean - they're usually a bit pricey so you might do better. So if you don't blank and/or catch can you're up for that every so often. How often? No idea. Some seem to end up with pretty clean manifolds and others gunk up. Again no rhyme or reason although I've wondered before whether the grade of oil and whether you ever overfill it might contribute to additional crank case vapours? I dunno really. I'm starting to contemplate some changes once I get mine cleaned. Thinking maybe a chip, blank and drill the throttle body. And hope I don't ever need that engine warranty...

[JoanTheSpark]

Wow.. read it all. What do I get?

Ok, I got a MY10 GL-R DiD 2.5 Auto and after reading all these pages I'd like to keep the crap out of the manifold. The car was ex-demo and currently has got around 16ks on it.

Ideal version (as pursued by tsenior):
Plugable electronic modification of both EGR and TB (throttle valve) that sets the EGR to closed and TB to open and gives out bogus control values to the ECU.
Pro: can be removed for services, no mechanical mod on the emission stuff (me = burnt child)
Con: not here yet, as nobody actually seems to try (or is able) to get some data logged for the values that need to be sent to the ECU and how to control the EGR/TB

..the last post of tsenior was on June 4 and he seemed to have probs with the connectors.

Now for me to start somewhere and take some signal measurements.. I have no real clue where the TB nor the EGR valves and their connectors are and the html manual I got from you guys is for the MY07-09 ML 3.2 diesels, so no help. I searched on google for the MN engine bay and found some pics where I circled where I think that stuff sits (mine isn't dirty yet but looks similar in regards to the gear inside)

..anyone able to comment?


>> CLICK HERE FOR BIG PICTURE <<

Also, I couldn't find throttle body in the manual for the ML 3.2 yet (EGR yes).. is it called differently there? Cause once I go for the wires I'd like to orientate on the diagrams in the mnual for the ML as I have nothing for the MN.