Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[mitzikatzi]

I sent a pm a few weeks back and still have not heard back. Am I missing something here, why is it so secret squirrel.

I pm'ed his email too you. e mail is better than pm's.

[BillMcQuade]

He is a pretty busy person, sometimes it takes a while to get back to you.

[Tony]

Tony here...

Please be patient as I will eventually find you all, I have had major server issues (Hence no email reply), PM box overfull, other commitments etc. I'm working through it quickly as possible. Have had to take a day off work as so thick and call in a favor as well.
Sorry for the frustration.

PM's are not a great channel for contact as much harder to track and have limitations.

Server issues now resolved, any who need my urgent attention... tony@spvindustries.com

Regards,
Tony

[BusterMan2388]

I had issues with PM. I emailed Tony had a discussion about the mod, then purchased it I had it in my hands in under a week from payment. Easy to fit and is working. Cheers

[dave3428]

I received Tony's mod in the post Tuesday. No problems at all. Tony's such a good bloke he sent me a second that I received Wednesday. Paid for one and got two. Thanks for that Tony. But I only have one triton. So I've sent it back to you Tony. Thanks anyway.
Cheers mate
Dave

[DirtPig]

Received mine within one week. Good stuff!!

[smlr]

Hi all

Has anyone tried to plug in another EGR valve & just mount it next to the existing EGRV. That way the ECU is operating an EGRV, it's just not connected in the manifold. Your existing EGR should stay closed. Am I right? Would this cause issues?

[biggibbo]

Hi all

Has anyone tried to plug another EGR & just mount it next to the existing EGR. That way the ECU is operating an EGR it's just not connected in the manifold. Your existing EGR should stay closed. Am I right? Would this cause issues?

Why bother?

A resistor is cheaper and easier to fit, and removable.

[smlr]

I thought the resistor caused certain issues

[biggibbo]

no issues that im aware of

clean manifolds, lower EGT's, better economy, smoother running - not sure i see any issues.

The problems I think you may be thinking of may be related to the guys who are just chucking in any old resistor without any knowledge of what they are really doing and using incorrect values or tapping into the wrong signal. if u spend $50 and get Tony's kit, its all sorted.

[BillMcQuade]

Fitted Tony's kit (with switch) yesterday. Decided to connect it at the ECU as I wanted all the wiring in the cabin. Unplugged the ECU and AFM, found the black/blue wire and tested the cable for continuity with a meter. Cut the wire at the ECU end. I decided not to use the crimp connectors, so I soldered and heatshrinked the connections, then taped the cable into the loom. The switch was put into one of the blanks next to the cigarette lighter. Checked the operation with my ScanGauge; works a treat

[koshari]

no issues that im aware of

clean manifolds, lower EGT's, better economy, smoother running - not sure i see any issues.

The problems I think you may be thinking of may be related to the guys who are just chucking in any old resistor without any knowledge of what they are really doing and using incorrect values or tapping into the wrong signal. if u spend $50 and get Tony's kit, its all sorted.

i have seen 3 issues on the forums in recent times,

2 were related to "tonys kit" being installed incorrectly and another was a fault unrelated to the MAF sensor which actually turned out the be the EGR reporting back the wrong position.

People who do the mod themselves are more likely to understand what they are actually doing as opposed to people buying an off the shelf solution.

the proposal to connecting up a 2nd EGR a few posts back not in air cct would be no different to putting in a blank, sure you would get feedback that the EGR is operating and no change in actual flow, this would potentially give you the same limpys/codes originating from incorrect manifold pressures.

[mitzikatzi]

....snipp...

People who do the mod themselves are more likely to understand what they are actually doing as opposed to people buying an off the shelf solution.

...snip....

Some people

[NowForThe5th]

People who do the mod themselves are more likely to understand what they are actually doing as opposed to people buying an off the shelf solution.

Have to disagree. The biggest problem is people who have absolutely no idea what they're doing and lack the skills to do it anyway. I'm not having a go at anybody - the world is made up of people with different skill sets but what I've watched, for example on another forum, is a bunch of tightwads who are trying to work this whole thing out with clearly not the slightest concept of what's going on or what they're doing. There have been all kinds of results - the mod not working, only partially working and certainly working, although with the resistance values that have been used in cases one would expect that even a power station would grind to a halt. Now, to be fair, not everyone who posts there falls into this category but my point remains that the limiting factor in this mod is probably the installer.

[koshari]

OK semantics aside and to be more precise i may have better said "people who understand what they are doing would have a better chance of implementing the mod without issue".

your closing sentence "the limiting factor in this mod is probably the installer." is the point exactly and anybody with a basic understanding with electronics a voltage divider would be about as simple a circuit that there is. for others that don't understand such a basic concept i agree shouldn't be playing around with a vehicles electrical system.

I don't have any experience of the forums you refer to, just the 3 issues i had read recently on these forums which made up part of the context of my post.

[mitzikatzi]

Are you the "koshari" On a bicycle forum? People there struggle with left hand threaded pedals. Often resulting in costly repairs. I often think that if you have to ask the question on why/how do you do it. You are probably not ready to do the job.
As you stated some can not even instal the Tony Mod correctly. I think your mod is a case of if you have to ask why and how you shouldn't be doing it. If you have the knowledge you could work it out yourself.
The "two wire" mod is something many should avoid doing themselves.
For many the paid mod kit is really the safest option.

[AnOldFart]

N4th5th - you are right...!
"The limiting factor is the (capability) of the installer."

koshari - you are right...!
"Those who don't have even such a basic knowledge of electronics simply shouldn't --play-- around with the vehicle's electronics system."

mitzikatzi - you are right...!
"For many the paid mod is really the safest option."

Now... my own 2 cents worth...!
For --anyone-- with a 'competent‘ knowledge of electronics, implementing --ANY-- of the 3 suggested versions of the --resistor mod-- as already (over) discussed in the "ET Mod Installation" thread is child's play.
FOR EVERY ONE ELSE... ie, those who have --NO UNDERSTANDING AT ALL-- of electronics, simply --BUY TONY's-- Variable Resistor Mod, and save yourself a lot of 'possible' grief, and stop, filling up the NT Forum's pages with --endless repetition-- of --pointless-- arguments about --which-- is the best option...!

[NowForThe5th]

It's only taken 94 pages, but I do believe that we have concurrence.

[AnOldFart]

It's only taken 94 pages, but I do believe that we have concurrence.

Hallelujah Brother ...

[BillMcQuade]

, those who have --NO UNDERSTANDING AT ALL-- of electronics, simply --BUY TONY's-- Variable Resistor Mod, and save yourself a lot of 'possible' grief, and stop, filling up the NT Forum's pages with --endless repetition-- of --pointless-- arguments about --which-- is the best option...!

I have a good understanding of electronics, and still bought Tony's kit for a variety of reasons, mainly because I like shiny things

I should point out to anyone that is planning on splicing any mod into the ECU end of the wiring that it is imperative to test the continuity of the wire before installation. You will need a long piece of wire and a multimeter to do this. Unplug the AFM and stick one end of the cable into the plug, and test the wire that you have cut to make sure it is the right one. There are two wires at the ECU that look very similar, especially in the cramped footwell (even with good lighting).

Also, I would recommend that if you choose to solder any of the 3 types of mods rather than crimp, DISCONNECT the plug from the ECU and the AFM! Your soldering iron is capable of delivering stray current into the wiring.

Now I have to find the time to remove the blank that I had previously fitted.

[variflex]

Now I have to find the time to remove the blank that I had previously fitted.

Is there a need to remove the existing blanking plate once Tonys mod has been fitted?

[Longranger1]

Now I have to find the time to remove the blank that I had previously fitted.

Is there a need to remove the existing blanking plate once Tonys mod has been fitted?

No.

[Cowboy Dave]

In a 2.5 yes

[Longranger1]

I left the blank in (even though it is redundant) as protection from a gas cooler leak.

Granted the blank doesn't serve any other purpose as the egr is closed anyway. With a commanded throttle position of 100% and at 0% egr, opening it is irrelevant leaving the blank in. If you want it switchable then that changes things a little...

[variflex]

Thanks Gent's
The lazy side in me is saying leave it in,
(3.2L the original and still the best )