Stoneman wrote:I would like to see someone be able to replicate it
Not just by driving up a hil, but actually find what's doing it
If for example it's the actuator, surely a valve could be made to replicate it and make it do it for testing?
Why can't it be replicated on a DYNO?
Or find the culprit sensor trick it and see what happens (monitoring everything else of course)
Vacuum,boost,fuel pressure can be logged and throttle position.
There has to be a way of isolating the issue....but from what I read it can't be yet or hasn't been shared
I understand how conclusions are made with circumstances outlined but it has to be able to be isolated, or why can't it be?
Out of curiously what sort of performance difference is seen with different size exhaust and what details are available to support it?
Cowboy Dave wrote:Sharkey, don't worry about the apparent conflict, not your fault at all. Why some people choose to overboost (and/or overheat) is even more of a mystery than you've got with your car.
Sure Berrima Diesel seem to have a good name etc but no one place could ever be across every model of every diesel engine in the country and know every failure mode there is.
They also wouldn't be the first performance product vendor to say they've never come across the problem.
See for example some posts from monkeyz on a similar issue. His tuner fixed the problem with a Dawes valve set-up as described near the start of this thread.
MMAL haven't come up with a fix for it as yet. Berrima can, as Srb said earlier, reduce fuel and boost (more fuel means more air etc) but you will likely notice less power thereafter.
The Dawes fix described in this thread will be familiar to them though (or should be) as it is similar to a fix used on a model of patrol some years ago.
If you contact Tony@spvindustries.com he might be able to help you with a prototype of his new fix. Be aware though that he currently has a bit of a production backlog and with Christmas pending you would probably be looking at January some time before he could do much for you.
Tomola wrote:It won't have anything to do with the auto trans fluid temperature. Because I also fitted a huge trans cooler which is 3 times the size of the factory unit and it dropped the trans temps significantly, before the cooler upgrade the trans would hold 2nd gear when the temps were high, towing a boat up hills or even in soft sand.
Since the cooler upgrade the trans has NEVER held 2nd gear again. They are a bloody good transmission - just get hot very easily the trans cooler has been the best upgrade.
Sharkey wrote:Tomola wrote:It won't have anything to do with the auto trans fluid temperature. Because I also fitted a huge trans cooler which is 3 times the size of the factory unit and it dropped the trans temps significantly, before the cooler upgrade the trans would hold 2nd gear when the temps were high, towing a boat up hills or even in soft sand.
Since the cooler upgrade the trans has NEVER held 2nd gear again. They are a bloody good transmission - just get hot very easily the trans cooler has been the best upgrade.
Hi Tomola,
What Transmission Cooler did you end up going with because mine too has locked up in 2nd gear after coming up the Clyde Mountain down near Batemans Bay. This is another upgrade which I would like to do in the New Year.
Sharkey wrote:For those of you who are still following this discussion, I took the truck to Berrima Diesel today to investigate the once off Overboost and it was highly advised that I remove the Blanking Plate as this was most likely attributing to the problem. I was told by BERRIMA to only use the Oil Catch Can and NOT the Blanking plates.
Apparently there is a brand new write up on their Facebook page in relation to EGR. Very good read indeed.
Anyway only time will tell with the removal of the Blanking plate as to whether this has totally resolved the over boost.
NowForThe5th wrote:So how did they solve it, coughy?
Layman's logic tells me that if you have overboost you can only stop it from happening by reducing the boost or increasing the point at which the ECU chucks a hissy fit and goes into limp. Other than reducing the exhaust size, which we know you haven't done.
You're saying that you're running "26psi all day" so they must have moved the point at which a limp is triggered. To me that sounds potentially dangerous - I hope you're running a calibrated Dawes valve to prevent the turbo going into orbit when the ECU does get wrong footed.
NowForThe5th wrote:Thanks Bill.
So, if I replaced the throttle body with a carby it should go much better, right?
BillMcQuade wrote:Gemini, and then wonder why the thing ran like a dog.
BillMcQuade wrote:NowForThe5th wrote:So how did they solve it, coughy?
Layman's logic tells me that if you have overboost you can only stop it from happening by reducing the boost or increasing the point at which the ECU chucks a hissy fit and goes into limp. Other than reducing the exhaust size, which we know you haven't done.
You're saying that you're running "26psi all day" so they must have moved the point at which a limp is triggered. To me that sounds potentially dangerous - I hope you're running a calibrated Dawes valve to prevent the turbo going into orbit when the ECU does get wrong footed.
Essentially they change the delay between the ECU receiving an input, and the response to the output. We're talking about periods of less than a second. In reality, when using electronic-over-vacuum control, there is always a (relatively speaking) fair lag in the actuation process, as evidenced by MNs that limp with the factory exhaust.
On my vehicle, the upper limit for boost was simply returned to pre-campaign levels (~22.5psi), so the actual alarm limit remains the same as OEM. It just gets an extra 500ms or so to stabilise. If it detects the alarm condition it can still go into limp to protect the engine/turbo. If anything, the boost control is now more stable than it was pre-tune, as the actuator is not constantly hunting, due to the steeper boost ramp.
There is also a change to the upper limit of what the air flow meter deems normal. The extra allowable air flow is matched with extra fuel to retain a good A/F ratio. There is still an alarm limit, but it is proportionally higher. Most of the issues on the MN are related to excess air flow, as the OEM fuelling table is unable to compensate for flows above "X" setting. It's just like the the good old days when your mate would throw a 2.5" exhaust on his Gemini, and then wonder why the thing ran like a dog. Once you throw a Weber on it and run a decent cam, it would go fine. Electronic controls can mask faults/compensate for a lot of mods, but they have limits. As I have said before; engine mods are like solving algebra, what you do to one side, you must do to the other.
BillMcQuade wrote:NowForThe5th wrote:Thanks Bill.
So, if I replaced the throttle body with a carby it should go much better, right?
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