murwullambah wrote:Hi, just been reading thread and looking at closing EGR off and had a look at my engine (challenger 2.5 same as triton)
can anybody tell me what the oblong manifold type thing that the pipes go into before the EGR is as i i have conflicting places as to where to block it off. Does the pipe come from the other side(exhaust) and then enter another box before it goes to the intake, sorry if this sounds confusing but im trying to work it out in my head how things work
hendo wrote:Few questions Fellas
Does the 6mm hole stop all limp modes if so would it help much keeping the egr gasses out?
How does oil get past the turbo to mix with egr gasses in inlet manifold?
If a catch can is installed what lubricates the turbo shaft (does turbo need lubing)?
Would a perferated EGR plate work say 15mm diameter of .25 mm holes?
really wanna do this mod but dont know much about limp modes or resetting
murwullambah wrote:Ok guys thanks for the info, couple of other things, does the car always throw a fault code (2.5 DID) as i have a new challenger and am a bit worried if it does how to get rid of it and what the dealer will say if i have to take it to them to clear. Can you get the code cleared elsewhere and what is a scanguage? what does it do, is it worth getting one, thanks again for all your info
GLX-R MN wrote:hendo wrote:Few questions Fellas
Does the 6mm hole stop all limp modes if so would it help much keeping the egr gasses out?
How does oil get past the turbo to mix with egr gasses in inlet manifold?
If a catch can is installed what lubricates the turbo shaft (does turbo need lubing)?
Would a perferated EGR plate work say 15mm diameter of .25 mm holes?
really wanna do this mod but dont know much about limp modes or resetting
6mm hole equalizes the sensor pressure's in effect. Try it with out first. if it bugs out because of the blank you will see the engine light stay on after a limp and will show the code for (Under boost) (List of codes here viewtopic.php?f=21&t=5977&start=0&hilit=list+of+fault+codes )
If this happens, then go for the 6mm hole. I don't see any point on a perforated plate as will block up in time.
The oil you see in the intake is mist from the PCV. The catch can will stop some but not all. (A good pro vent can with a filter screen works better).
This oil mist does not contribute to lubricating the turbo in any way. It has its own oil suply from the engine.
Thanx for answers starting to work it all out now might just leave mine way it is untill get intake manifold replaced then do blank plate and chip it
If oil is getting past a turbo you have problems! Usually results in the engine running off as will run on the oil.
I find the biggest issue with oil mist that fact it ends up through the intercooler. Has to be removed and washed out occasionally. The EGR system contributes to most of the carbon build up problems we're seeing.
You may want to purchase a scan tool of some sort so can read and clear any codes. Otherwise the dealer will be scratching their heads as to the cause ..... Been a lot of map sensors replaced I'd say.
Tony
NTBB wrote:Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?
Steane wrote:burnah wrote:Stealer tech is adamant that catch cans are only for 3.2
Recommends against it on my 2.5 MN
Ask him if he'll cover the cost of having the carbon removed when the MN is out of warranty.
GLX-R Alex wrote:My plate went in at 500km... I now have 30000km... My inlet is clean as a whistle.
hendo wrote:GLX-R MN wrote:hendo wrote:Few questions Fellas
Does the 6mm hole stop all limp modes if so would it help much keeping the egr gasses out?
How does oil get past the turbo to mix with egr gasses in inlet manifold?
If a catch can is installed what lubricates the turbo shaft (does turbo need lubing)?
Would a perferated EGR plate work say 15mm diameter of .25 mm holes?
really wanna do this mod but dont know much about limp modes or resetting
6mm hole equalizes the sensor pressure's in effect. Try it with out first. if it bugs out because of the blank you will see the engine light stay on after a limp and will show the code for (Under boost) (List of codes here viewtopic.php?f=21&t=5977&start=0&hilit=list+of+fault+codes )
If this happens, then go for the 6mm hole. I don't see any point on a perforated plate as will block up in time.
The oil you see in the intake is mist from the PCV. The catch can will stop some but not all. (A good pro vent can with a filter screen works better).
This oil mist does not contribute to lubricating the turbo in any way. It has its own oil suply from the engine.
Thanx for answers starting to work it all out now might just leave mine way it is untill get intake manifold replaced then do blank plate and chip it
If oil is getting past a turbo you have problems! Usually results in the engine running off as will run on the oil.
I find the biggest issue with oil mist that fact it ends up through the intercooler. Has to be removed and washed out occasionally. The EGR system contributes to most of the carbon build up problems we're seeing.
You may want to purchase a scan tool of some sort so can read and clear any codes. Otherwise the dealer will be scratching their heads as to the cause ..... Been a lot of map sensors replaced I'd say.
Tony
NTBB wrote:Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?
burnah wrote:The point of a perforated plate is clearly to reduce the EGR as much as possible without disabling your vehicle.
What you are suggesting is that the only sensible options are:
a) not blanked - exhaust gas shitting up your engine and pipes.
b) blanked - no recirculation with no problems
c) blanked - no recirculation with limps and codes
Option a) is obviously the least desirable
Option b) is ideal
Option c) is not one that anyone would choose, but many find themselves confronted with.
I think we can safely assume that anyone experiencing option c) intended to have option b).
It would be logical, in these unfortunate cases, to explore another option.
Option d) blanked with hole in plate - recirculation reduced with no problems.
If it blocks up after a while, remove it, poke the crap out and put it back.
What you are suggesting is that it's all or none - that if your going for b) and end up with c) you should settle for a)
Doesn't make sense to me.
snowman wrote:NTBB wrote:Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?
it is back in. no problems but i only drove about 10klms.
i will keep you posted if it limps.
i am a fair dinkum dope - i had no idea there was a boost controller as part of this package .....blimey *smack* uppercut. so it is not quite as stealthy as i thought - for the 3.2 anyway. i don't think 2.5's need mech control.
i don't think 2.5's need mech control.
snowman wrote:NTBB wrote:Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?
it is back in. no problems but i only drove about 10klms.
i will keep you posted if it limps.
i am a fair dinkum dope - i had no idea there was a boost controller as part of this package .....blimey *smack* uppercut. so it is not quite as stealthy as i thought - for the 3.2 anyway. i don't think 2.5's need mech control.
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