Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[TheSheepKed]

,,,snip...(it has never been cleaned and has done 90,000kms) ....snip....

90k km Timing belts due on MN clean inlet manifold then.

Got the timing belt done a couple weeks ago. Didn't think to get the inlet manifold cleaned then. Would rather get it done at my local mechanic than at the dealership though. Quoted $500 roughly.

[mhyde]

blanking plate in at 20,000 km and then mod cable put on and blanking plate taken out as recommended
and no has never been cleaned
always serviced
dpf cleaners etc added to fuel every now and then
blanking plate or mod since nearly new as mention and still has not done 70,000km

[mhyde]

yep
youtube video is best answer

[L200Shogun]

,,,snip...(it has never been cleaned and has done 90,000kms) ....snip....

90k km Timing belts due on MN clean inlet manifold then.

Got the timing belt done a couple weeks ago. Didn't think to get the inlet manifold cleaned then. Would rather get it done at my local mechanic than at the dealership though. Quoted $500 roughly.

When engine is apart for timing belts. Maybe $150 to send off site to be hot tanked. Otherwise no extra cost

[TheSheepKed]

Got a second cable today to test out whether it was a cable issue. Same thing, not different.
To better explain, I'll annotate what happens.

1) Car starts up fine, no CEL
2) Drive around, sounds like the engine is cold (because it is) - has that gritty sound
3) Warm car up till temp gauge is where it normally sits
4) Accelerate slightly at 60km/h, here gritty noise (may be normal)
5) Leave foot on pedal without accelerating, cruising at 60 km/h, here some pinging noises
6) Put on cruise at 60km/h, still some random noises but not loud clunks or thumps
7) Put in park with handbrake on and rev to 2000rpm, clean engine sound, no pings or clunks or noises
8) Shut engine off, shuts down a bit harder than without EGR module. Shakes a bit harder and more abrupt
9) Engine feels cooler than without EGR module -> coolant in overflow bottle is cold, most of the hoses are relatively cooler, and not getting blasted by a heat wave when popping the hood.

Suspect that it could be the EGR valve staying slightly open and flapping about?
Not sure if injectors?

[Sky Miner]

This thread has gone a bit cold so....I was gonna run this cable mod for a few months just to see how it went 1st but anyway....I just installed the KPD4x4 EGR cable mod to my MQ' CC 2wd, (only 12month's old n 10k on the clock) took the full blanking plate out and did a fuel run down the road and the consumption was suprisingly better was averaging 10.1 now it's dropped to 9.1 did drop to 8.9 & 100kmh for awhile so that's a good thing but will double check the consumption properly on the next fill up' also feels a little better on take off 'no rattles clanks or bangs everything seems to be behaving itself all temps are fine EGR on the scangauge is showing 0% so it's doing what it's supposed to be doing....soooo i'll give it a chance n see how it goes and no more clearing U3FFF from what i can find on that code it was (maybe) an under boost code with the blanking plate in, I'll give it a few month's and if any prob's n i'll let ya all know.

[baileysw]

Is there a definitive solution to blocking the EGR unit on a 2010 MN Triton 2.5l TD?

After reading hundred of pages regarding this issue, I am more confused than ever.

So far my research has uncovered -
1) Buy a new EGR unit - but you will still get clogged inlet manifolds
2) Use a blocking plate - but that has other implications that result in error codes
3) DIY resistor mod. 0.5W, 3.5K, 4.7K, 6.8K - no one knows what to use for an MN.
4) Cable (resistor) mod
1) SVV, but they have gone out of business
2) 4WD accessories, but they have gone out of business
3) Tony, but he seems to have disappeared
4) Munji on Ebay, but no seems to have had experience with them
5) ECU reprogam to close EGR - probably the most expensive mod for what is involved.

Since this thread has been silent for a month, has anyone got a solution that they would recommend? I am an electronics nut so option 3 is the cheapest and easiest for me, but as my ute has only done 50,000k and is only just starting to surge, I want to nip this in the bud.

[RHKTriton]

I'd just go the resistor in the loom, done it on both the mn & ml and egr never opens and throttle flap sits at 100%.

From memory I used 4.7k ohm. Just place an insulated splint long enough to stop any fatigue on the resistor leads before taping it up.

Your surging is more likely the SCV sticking. Try a shot of Two stroke oil through a couple of tanks - will probably go away.

As always, do any mods at you're own risk.

[Minza]

Hi baileysw,
Option 3 is the way to go mate, I've had mine in now for roughly 10 000 k and no cel or codes of any sort, if you're interested in one from spvi drop Tony a pm or send him an email, I did notice Tony was on the forum the other day, his mod is very easy to install as well,simply plug n play.

[explorer.dave]

tony@spvindustries.com

OR

https://chiptuning.com.au/products-page/egr_module/

[BillMcQuade]

You get a lot more with option 5, than just closing the EGR.

[baileysw]

Hi Bill,

I inquired about option 5 today and was told of extra power and extra mileage but the cost was $1500. Gulp!

[jrs184]

Hi all, I've spent tonight searching and reading a few threads here and couldn't find an answer to a question that a friend asked me today, he said he knew that the cylinder temps are higher with a blocked egr but how much hotter? I had no idea so I thought I'd ask, he's pro egr which is his choice but seems to think I'm doing more harm than good in the long run. Any info appreciated

From my understanding: with the egr, the cylinder temps are lower due to the exhaust gases from the egr having less oxygen so the combustion temps reduce. The exhaust temps increase, this is a diesel paradox but has been confirmed by pyrometers in the the exhaust measuring the temps by others. Blank or disable the egr and the air fuel mix has more oxygen so the combustion temps increase and produce more NO2. this is the reason behind having the egr to meet emission standards, but the exhaust temps reduce. Having the egr introduces inefficiency in the combustion process to reduce production and emission of NO2. The thermostat in my ML opens at 76 degrees C, the coolant temp usually hovers at around 80 to 82 degrees. Uphills i get readings of 84-5. This reflects the controlled engine operating temperatures well within safe operating limits. The pyrometer readings of exhaust temperatures reprorted by others on this forum also reflect safe operating levels, below melting point of Aluminium ect...hope this helps. I would also like to see if others agree on the diesel paradox mentioned above or has consensus on this altered..

[BillMcQuade]

I would also like to see if others agree on the diesel paradox mentioned above or has consensus on this altered..

In a Diesel, rich mixtures mean more heat, which is the opposite to a petrol engine.

This is a well known fact.

[BillMcQuade]

Hi Bill,

I inquired about option 5 today and was told of extra power and extra mileage but the cost was $1500. Gulp!

You should be able to get it done for $1000 - $1200, most places will simply load the base MRT map, and that doesn't take a lot of time. The bulk of the cost is the ECUTEK license fee.

Check out how much a dealership will charge you to clean the inlet manifold, and it makes the ECU remap look attractive.

[baileysw]

Thanks RHKTriton for your comments. Can you tell me where you placed the 4.7K resistor? I would have thought on the blue/black striped wire just after the MAF sensor but others have suggested splicing it into the cable on the firewall.

[NowForThe5th]

You know, I don't often say this but just because you read something on an internet forum doesn't necessarily mean that it's correct, or that the poster knows what they're talking about.

Generally the advice here on NewTriton is fairly good because it is peer reviewed and the peers usually have a fair amount of knowledge and experience. But in some cases the "peers" don't know and all kinds of silly things can happen. There is another (Mitsubishi) forum where members have been playing around with DIY EGR defeat systems using various resistance values for years and still haven't realised that there is no definitive and all encompassing answer. What will work on an ML may not work on some MNs, or indeed, Challengers or Pajeros.

If you're going to stuff around with the electrics on your vehicle at least have some idea of what you're doing and be able to verify that the modification you're making is working properly. In this case you need a decent scanner to be able to actually read the value that you're forcing down the ECU's throat with your randomly chosen resistor. Choose the wrong one and the mod may not work, or not work as intended. Or it may have serious unintended consequences. Or no consequences. But do you know this?

The people who develop these products commercially spend literally months testing on a range of vehicles in conditions at the extremes available in this country (and sometimes other countries). Even then they can be surprised with an untested application that they may not even have known the existence of. The difference is that they generally support and back up their products.

Before I make any electrical changes to my vehicle I ask myself the question: "What could go wrong and can I fix it if it does?"

How do you know that 4.7K is the right value for your vehicle?

[L200Shogun]

[quote="NowForThe5th"....snip..

The people who develop these products commercially spend literally months testing on a range of vehicles in conditions at the extremes available in this country (and sometimes other countries). Even then they can be surprised with an untested application that they may not even have known the existence of. The difference is that they generally support and back up their products.

... snip.. [/quote]

Brave statement saying all spend months doing research. Some products/sellers I see on eBay worry me.

[Matty689]

I have a 2012 GLXR 2.5L turbo diesel which section of the EGR do I block?

[BillMcQuade]

I have a 2012 GLXR 2.5L turbo diesel which section of the EGR do I block?

I suggest you read the thread, which will give you all the information you need, complete with pictures. It will also give you the pros and cons of each method.

[Huss511827]

I have 2010 GLXR great Vehicle with 175K on the clock so just run in
However recently returned from a 15K trip towing a 2.2 ton caravan towing the van on flat road no wind was getting 16Lt per 100
Uphill strong winds fell to 25Lt per 100 this was not unexpected
Back home now and running around town gettting 16 per again not the 8-9 i should be getting
Done all the usual things serviced regularly fuel filter changed regularly
I have deduced it is a soot, carbon buildup, EGR issue
Requested a quote from diesel specialist $2500
This is for remap computer to turn off EGR, Dyno tune after carbon clean (run for 5 hrs on idle while running cleaning chemical thru engine) new oil and filter
2500 is a lot in anyones language
Do i just get the inline EGR resistor for $150 and a can of cleaner and do it myself?

[NowForThe5th]

They saw you coming, Huss.

Despite the wild claims made by some manufacturers of "cleaning products" the only sure way to clean the mess in the inlet manifold is to remove it and clean mechanically or in a special cleaning solution bath. Squirting an aerosol down the intake just doesn't cut it and all that crap is, if any comes off at all, going to be sucked right into the engine. That should be good for the valves rings and cylinders, not to mention what slips down the sides and gets into the oil, not. And where are they going to squirt their magic cleaner in? Before the filter, or are they going to run the engine for all that time without any filter?

Idling for 5 hours? Do you know what that can do to your SCV?

If you don't want to do it yourself then find a local mechanic to remove the manifold and clean it. There's a few hours work in that so not really cheap. Then add your choice of EGR defeat mechanism. Should come out well under $1K for the lot.

[RHKTriton]

X2

Dyno tune a common rail?

There's a $2000+ computer in your vehicle, which is loaded with a program to get the best out of your engine with numerous factors taken into consideration. Small tweaks may help, but the 5hr idle time would be an alarm that a wanker would be 'tampering' with my ride.

Excepting the carbon build up, the ecu is constantly tweaking things every combustion event.

[mid080]

I have bought a MN Triton 2.5L, had it about 3 months and it's had logbook servicing.
The plan is to keep it for 4-5 years so it was booked in today for 75k service & this is when the valves are adjusted so I had my mechanic add a manifold clean, he said ~$300 to do it.

I pick the car up tomorrow so will see how it goes. Also I have an egr delete cable & will be installing that so with a clean manifold & egr delete hopefully this prevents any future issues.

[snippi]

I seen people say that you should have your manifold cleaned before blanking the egr but asides from having everything nice and clean is there a reason for this if the engine isn't experiencing issues due to build up?
Cheers