Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[coxy47]

After the work i think i will get 950-1100Km Tank, I carry 4-500Kg with figures about 1L more.
Hauls ass i Reckon. Specially in 4th from 60Ks...

950-1100km per tank

And i was happy with around 750 if i run it right down. Usually get just over 600 before the light

:shock: Wow i can only dream about getting those figures you guys are sporting! Are these km's taken with a GPS? Cause if your on stock tyres you speedo will be telling you lies. Around town I usually get about 550 -580km's before the light comes on. The weight I carry and heavier tyres must have something to do with It cause I used to get 750+ with standard tyres an empty tray and no ladders on my roof.

Opps off topic! Back on topic... Blank plate = no carbon, EGR, Throttle flap bypass bla bla...

Speedo will be telling lies but for some stupid reason the ADR's regarding odometer variances are much stricter then the speedo. Only allowed 1-2% or something at most. Hence the odometer is usally more accurate on stock tyres. I no mine was

[Newguy]

I Will GPS it, but i do get the Ks i reckon.

Also i think it is a good idea if your MAF Sensor was Dirty and you cleaned it.
Only do this when it's cold.
Turn the Key off and pull it out.
Disconnect the Ground turn the key to acc turn the lights on, turn the key off then fully on for a minute or two.
Then back off and out, reconnect the battery and i reckon it made a noticeable difference.
After a drive till its hot


Glad that EGR is Blocked off now

[odie602r]

Now that I've got a scangauge hooked up, I'm noticing that the BST reading (set to PSI) reads -0.1—-1.0 at various times - normally at idle and sometimes when off throttle.

From what I can gather blocking the EGR causes negative pressure (somehow) in the MAP sensor hose and I think the manifold, which is what throws the engine codes sometimes.

Can any others with boost reading ability verify that a slight negative BST reading is normal when the EGR has been fully blanked? (to remind, I also have a one way valve in the MAP sensor hose)?

I'd be interested to know what readings some of others get, say at idle and off throttle.

[Sky Miner]

Got 2 limpy's in 2 days so decided to pull the blank out and run around without it for awhile.....but after reading
throgh these pages i got spooked into putting it back in.....but this time with the 6mm hole drilled in the plate
soooo hopefully no more codes.

Does anyone know how much carbon/soot goes through the 6mm hole' or is it not really worring about as it's
such a small amount over the life of the engine.

[Kegsy]

dont drill a hole in the blank... pointless.

Do the Throttle body bypass mod. No limps.

Several ways to do it, have a search and you'll see there is about 4 work arounds for this problem on the MN.

[sierra]

Now that I've got a scangauge hooked up, I'm noticing that the BST reading (set to PSI) reads -0.1—-1.0 at various times - normally at idle and sometimes when off throttle.

From what I can gather blocking the EGR causes negative pressure (somehow) in the MAP sensor hose and I think the manifold, which is what throws the engine codes sometimes.

Can any others with boost reading ability verify that a slight negative BST reading is normal when the EGR has been fully blanked? (to remind, I also have a one way valve in the MAP sensor hose)?

I'd be interested to know what readings some of others get, say at idle and off throttle.

You are still going to get negative readings at idle, over-run and at very light loads, even with the one valve valve but those minus wont be as low as they were.
The EGR valve supplies high pressure to the manifold. When you block it off it has to be at lower pressure than it was and an extreme[low] reading can excede the limits of the ECU, causing a fault code.

My ML 2.5 blanked without a one way valve has never triggered a code but I do get negative pressure readings.
It should read 0psi when you turn it off at home if you set it at that altitude.
Mine reads -0.1psi at idle
-0.2 to -0.4 on the over-run
Up to -1.2psi at 50kph in 4th on the level. This light throttle cruising, is what seems to trigger a fault and you can see why with the scanguage etc.

The main purpose of the throttle valve is to cause a lower manifold pressure when the EGR valve is open to increase the flow through it. Suck it in if you like.
It does close completely on shut down too.

[sierra]

dont drill a hole in the blank... pointless.

Do the Throttle body bypass mod. No limps.

Several ways to do it, have a search and you'll see there is about 4 work arounds for this problem on the MN.

Totally agree and when you look at the guts of the valve itself, a 6mm hole might still flow close to the original anyway.
If I ever buy another diesel the first priority will be blocking off the EGR and the second will be fitting a catch can, sorry, engine breather oil filter.

[christocv]

hi guys,

two years ago,i put in a DPchip and did the exhust blank. i used to get the limp modes,and no cruise control.took it to mitsubishi,who wanted to buy new parts and so forth. I was in Dalby for a weekend at the time.No part arrived and had to drive to Brissy.THEN READ ON THE FORUM: TAKE THE NEGATIVE OF THE BATTERY TERMINAL AND LEAVE DISCONNECTED FOR AT LEAST 12 HOURS. Since then,i have not have any codes come up,even after putting on a scotts rod exhaust.

[sierra]

That sounds the easiest solution of all.
Just re-set the ECU. You could get the same result by turning it back on after it's disconnected to drain any residual power I think?

[sierra]

Here's an interesting thing to watch on a scanguage .
On a cold engine, below 55c coolant temp, set the cruise in 5th on the flat at about 66kph and watch the boost and TPS?[throttle valve] %
Mine was 99% = 1.2psi and it stayed at 1.2psi as the % fell to about 30% and then the boost fell rapidly to 0psi at 20% from 58c as it was fully operational.

The same thing at 90kph or 100pkh would be even more interesting, to see how much boost is lost at cruising speed?

So that last bit where the throttle valve shuts down from 30% to 20% does the damage and it makes sense but to watch it strangle the boost really clarifies how that thing needs to be de-activated apart from when it closes for a clean shutdown.

[srb]

Here's an interesting thing to watch on a scanguage .
On a cold engine, below 55c coolant temp, set the cruise in 5th on the flat at about 66kph and watch the boost and TPS?[throttle valve] %
Mine was 99% = 1.2psi and it stayed at 1.2psi as the % fell to about 30% and then the boost fell rapidly to 0psi at 20% from 58c as it was fully operational.

The same thing at 90kph or 100pkh would be even more interesting, to see how much boost is lost at cruising speed?

So that last bit where the throttle valve shuts down from 30% to 20% does the damage and it makes sense but to watch it strangle the boost really clarifies how that thing needs to be de-activated apart from when it closes for a clean shutdown.

That is interesting.

I just got back from a trip down the Hume Hwy and can happily say after watching the ultra gauge i wasn't loosing any boost when the throttle valve was closing. And my fuel economy is by far the best it's ever been! I did 394km on exactly half a tank = 9.5L/100.

I also noticed when cruising at 100kph the throttle flap would sit at it's normal 20% and EGR at 70% and when I increased my cruise to 110-115kph the throttle would stay wide open 99% and the EGR at 89-100% as well If I set the cruise back to 100kph it would then be back to it's usual 20% and EGR at 70%? Boost was around 5-6psi, EGT was 480-600degrees and engine coolant temp 98-102 degrees. Love watching the boost smash across to 30psi up a hill section and watching all the cars go bye bye in the mirrors.

[Sky Miner]

Hey fellas might have to go with this TB/Butterfly mod (is this correct)
Anyone got a pic of this' wouldn't mind seeing where you put this 'hole' to equalise the
pressure

Wouldn't this mod allso be a bit of a dead giveaway to the stealer when it comes to servicing ie: warranty void .....im sure they arn't compleatly stupid if they spot this....."hmmm and what is this then"

[NTBB]

Here you go sky miner (thanks to Tony) some good pics in Tex's forum guide under the carbon and catch can section
download/file.php?id=1265

[Sky Miner]

Ahh cheers mate

[srb]

Hey fellas might have to go with this TB/Butterfly mod (is this correct)
Anyone got a pic of this' wouldn't mind seeing where you put this 'hole' to equalise the
pressure

Wouldn't this mod allso be a bit of a dead giveaway to the stealer when it comes to servicing ie: warranty void .....im sure they arn't compleatly stupid if they spot this....."hmmm and what is this then"

Mate IMO drilling a hole in the TB flap is a very crude way to get around this simple problem and it's irreversible. It's just as easy to tee in the one way valve into the map line. And It's very discreet and if your still worried about your dealer seeing it just remove the tee and join the hose with a strait coupling. Too easy!

[RHKTriton]

x2 srb - the drillin is a bit brutal and leaves you wide open for a reamming by a dealer, or EPA spot check - the latter will eventually become common as our pollies look for new revenue streams.

[Sky Miner]

Agreed after looking at the Butterfly i just couldn't bring myself around to drilling a hole in it nah!! that one's not for me

And i put a new blank back in.

So could you or anyone show me where this map line is and what type of....oneway valve is used plz
Cheers

[RHKTriton]

Sorry I didn't see your other post Sierra (26/4).

It does make a significant difference to the economy when you get up fast through the gears and try and stick in that 1500-2000 rpm range. I've experimented over a couple of days over the regular routes I go and its possible to shave up to 1.5l/100 off the usual consumption.

Another thought guys - has anyone contemplated fitting a Variable Vane Turbo on the 3,2 donk?

That in combination with a well set up auto - like I had with the Vito, makes for a sweet package.

The turbo stays on heat and the transmission is providing continuous drive to the ground.

[mad992]

x2 srb - the drillin is a bit brutal and leaves you wide open for a reamming by a dealer, or EPA spot check - the latter will eventually become common as our pollies look for new revenue streams.

thats why i have a 6mm hole in my blanking plate

[srb]

Agreed after looking at the Butterfly i just couldn't bring myself around to drilling a hole in it nah!! that one's not for me

And i put a new blank back in.

So could you or anyone show me where this map line is and what type of....oneway valve is used plz
Cheers

PM Sent mate.

[sierra]

Sorry I didn't see your other post Sierra (26/4).

It does make a significant difference to the economy when you get up fast through the gears and try and stick in that 1500-2000 rpm range. I've experimented over a couple of days over the regular routes I go and its possible to shave up to 1.5l/100 off the usual consumption.

Another thought guys - has anyone contemplated fitting a Variable Vane Turbo on the 3,2 donk?

That in combination with a well set up auto - like I had with the Vito, makes for a sweet package.

The turbo stays on heat and the transmission is providing continuous drive to the ground.

That's a very impressive result saving 1.5L/100km. It's an easy habit to get into, changing up at 2000rpm, it feels good and you more than keep pace still.

VVT - Wouldn't you have to fit the 2.5HP ECU to drive it?

Could you tell me which wire on the throttle body needs to intercepted with a switch?

Here's another scan gauge result.

80kph below 55c coolant temp.
Throttle valve 99% Boost 4psi
58c
TV 20% Boost 1psi!!!!!!!!
So there's a good example of the thing robbing 3psi of boost. 4psi in the system up to the butterfly and 1psi after.

[srb]

x2 srb - the drillin is a bit brutal and leaves you wide open for a reamming by a dealer, or EPA spot check - the latter will eventually become common as our pollies look for new revenue streams.

thats why i have a 6mm hole in my blanking plate

Hole in blanking plate? Why bother having a blanking plate? Nar each to there own I guess but I just have hard time understanding the logic. Sorry mad.

[srb]

80kph below 55c coolant temp.
Throttle valve 99% Boost 4psi
58c
TV 20% Boost 1psi!!!!!!!!
So there's a good example of the thing robbing 3psi of boost. 4psi in the system up to the butterfly and 1psi after.[/quote]



Hay sierra, I guess this means you'll be doing LR's bypass sooner rather than latter ay.

[sierra]

Hay sierra, I guess this means you'll be doing LR's bypass sooner rather than latter ay.

No, i'm too lazy
I will go with getting the throttle butterfly open all the time. For me it's an easier option, stealthy and gives full boost all the time with no chance of it still being restricted to some degree.

I might pay an auto electrician to wire a switch in and use one of the 2 blanks on the dash for a rocker switch than looks stock. Down on, up off. At least until someone comes up with a better way to turn it off without permanently changing anything.

[RHKTriton]

Sierra, pins 5 & 6 in the TB plug are the servo feeds. Should be a black on green and green wire.

Can't remember which one I intercepted, but shouldn't matter. Soon as you open one line the servo drops out.

Looking at the circuit diagram, they use Hall Effect sensors to monitor the flap position (not a resistor as I originally thought).

THis would suggest that there is a metal vane that interacts with the sensors to feed back the flap position.