Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[irwazza]

So a bit more research today and I am 95% sure that disabling the the EGR valve will increase your fuel consumption as the valve is designed to create vortex airfow as the air passes over it. This affects to air fuel mix and give the motor is fuel efficiency. If you turn it off and it is open then you will not get that affect. That is also why it is noisy when not wide open as you can hear the air being bent over the valve. Essentially the same logic behind a Hi-Clone.

will have to agree to disagree here
If you believe in Hiclones you should also install a Energy Polarizer

The EGR has one purpose, and this to meet tightass emissions laws

[simonb]

Bit of detail of NRV's.
http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/ ... 0c37c7.pdf

[biggibbo]

They are used at up to 60PSI on our gas lines and experience temps anywhere from -12 up to 99 degrees depending on location and can handle gas and liquid.

Any idea what PSI is required to open them?

Not sure, the guys at work have used them on water lines at 5psi incoming but don't really know.

[coxy47]

So a bit more research today and I am 95% sure that disabling the the EGR valve will increase your fuel consumption as the valve is designed to create vortex airfow as the air passes over it. This affects to air fuel mix and give the motor is fuel efficiency. If you turn it off and it is open then you will not get that affect. That is also why it is noisy when not wide open as you can hear the air being bent over the valve. Essentially the same logic behind a Hi-Clone.

I'll have a chat to you this afternoon after I finish work mate. For some reason tapatalk won't let me reply to your pm.

[sierra]

So a bit more research today and I am 95% sure that disabling the the EGR valve will increase your fuel consumption as the valve is designed to create vortex airfow as the air passes over it. This affects to air fuel mix and give the motor is fuel efficiency. If you turn it off and it is open then you will not get that affect. That is also why it is noisy when not wide open as you can hear the air being bent over the valve. Essentially the same logic behind a Hi-Clone.

Didn't RHK say he got a better fuel consumption by 1L/100km?
There's no fuel for it to mix with in a diesel and by the time the air has got into the cylinder, had the valves shut and then been compressed prior to injection any effect from that valve would be history.

[sierra]

They are used at up to 60PSI on our gas lines and experience temps anywhere from -12 up to 99 degrees depending on location and can handle gas and liquid.

Any idea what PSI is required to open them?

Not sure, the guys at work have used them on water lines at 5psi incoming but don't really know.

Good point.
They need to open with about 1psi to be of much use.

[sierra]

One thing I have noticed with the throttle valve open is that the air temp in the manifold seems quite a bit higher.
I can only assume it's because the valve is reducing the pressure by about 4psi, so the air is expanding at the lower pressure and that's causing the temperature to fall after the valve when it's closed down to 20%.
I'll try to check that more carefully by switching it off while cruising.

[burnah]

Good point.
They need to open with about 1psi to be of much use.

Yeah, need to make sure it opens when required. I saw a high pressure valve on ebay that could handle up to something hundred PSI, but it needs at least 15 PSI to open.

[renperc]

If you are after an Automotive check valve, go the wreckers and look for an old Mitz Magna, against the fly wall on the passenger side are some vac lines that have 4mm check valves. Got some today free from the local wreckers.

[tsenior]

you could use a manual boost controller the ball type on the map line with the check valve inside it and you have the added benefit of adjusting when to bleed of pressure from the map sensor lol

or just buy one of these types and it comes with a external check valve

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/auction-475866677.htm

a bit better suited for the task

[burnah]

Looks like the one-way valve is a problem for space travel as well.

From the http://www.spacex.com website, regarding the failed attempt to launch a private mission to the international space station on the weekend:

"During rigorous inspections of the engine, SpaceX engineers discovered a faulty check valve on the Merlin engine. We are now in the process of replacing the failed valve. Those repairs should be complete tonight. We will continue to review data on Sunday."

[tsenior]

dumb ass's used the fish tank check valves as well lol. that nasty blue one

[burnah]

[biggibbo]

Spacex must have gone to the same pet store I did

BTW - just did 600km with the home brew valve and all seems ok - no CEL's yet.

[mattz]

600 ks......what about a pilsner.

[sierra]

Interesting running with the valve wide open, that I can now let it go right down to 700rpm[idle] in second or third and pull away cleanly with almost immediate boost. Not touching the clutch of course.
4th at 1000rpm, light throttle, 4psi at 1100rpm.

[godzilla_rising]

Firstly, I love how there is a bunch of guys that are continuously trying to nut out ways to solve issues with CEL's and Limpies predominantly caused by blanking the EGR system...so many different options.

A couple of weeks ago, I decided to get the gear to do the mod Longranger suggested, by tapping a line off the intercooler ducting and back up to the MAP sensor. While this will be the overall goal, in the meantime I have decided to do the Aquarium Mod.

My setup...



And next to the rest of the gear for the Longranger Mod. I will be using the same T-piece for either one...



The final installation...



I dont know which one is going to perform better, the current solution is just a "temp" thing for now. That is unless it works, and works well, and then there is no need for the Longranger Mod. I dont quite know yet. At some stage also, I will be looking to upgrade the one way valve. Ill be certain to keep my eyes open to what people have done here. Before I bought that valve that I did, I had a quick stop into a Home Brew Shop. The only check valves the had were ones where you shove the hose up into it (very technical term right there). I decided against that type and just went with the Aquarium one.

Let me know what you think and if there is any way I can improve...or even if one is better than the other (Longranger? )

Cheers,

P.S. As an aside to this one, I know it now works because my UltraGauge shows a constant pressure of either -0.15 or -0.29 psi boost, when in a CEL inducing cruise. Now that I know this, I will be able to keep an eye out for if the valve has failed due to having more negative pressure! Sneaky!!!!

[irwazza]

Has anyone completely removed the EGR cooler? I cant see any need of its existence....

[tsenior]

:lol:

Interesting running with the valve wide open, that I can now let it go right down to 700rpm[idle] in second or third and pull away cleanly with almost immediate boost. Not touching the clutch of course.
4th at 1000rpm, light throttle, 4psi at 1100rpm.

is this with the throttle valve wide open? My creader v code scanner arrived today just finished updating the software on it and soon will give it a blast and create some cel's for it to clear

[viking shippy]

Has anyone completely removed the EGR cooler? I cant see any need of its existence....

part of the adr rules its illegal to remove it might fail rego inspection if you do

[viking shippy]

:lol:

Interesting running with the valve wide open, that I can now let it go right down to 700rpm[idle] in second or third and pull away cleanly with almost immediate boost. Not touching the clutch of course.
4th at 1000rpm, light throttle, 4psi at 1100rpm.

is this with the throttle valve wide open? My creader v code scanner arrived today just finished updating the software on it and soon will give it a blast and create some cel's for it to clear

Ha 50kph to 110kph in 5th no gear change lol on the freeway ramp and no incline

[sierra]

is this with the throttle valve wide open? My creader v code scanner arrived today just finished updating the software on it and soon will give it a blast and create some cel's for it to clear

Yes.
It seemed a bit flat after it was serviced. I asked them not to do any ECU updates because it was running perfectly.
Anyway, I did the battery disconnect and drained the system to hopefully let it do a relearn and seems to be back to normal. The only downside is it throws a code nearly every time I turn the throttle body servo off now, about 30sec later but I can clear it on the move very easily.

Looking forward to hearing how you get on.

[irwazza]

Has anyone completely removed the EGR cooler? I cant see any need of its existence....

part of the adr rules its illegal to remove it might fail rego inspection if you do

this is a EGR blanking thread, you think that's legal?
Also I can't see why removing the cooler would be illegal, as long as the EGR lines are still there they would never notice...

[tsenior]

Yes.
It seemed a bit flat after it was serviced. I asked them not to do any ECU updates because it was running perfectly.
Anyway, I did the battery disconnect and drained the system to hopefully let it do a relearn and seems to be back to normal. The only downside is it throws a code nearly every time I turn the throttle body servo off now, about 30sec later but I can clear it on the move very easily.

Looking forward to hearing how you get on.

yay i had a quick play with my code reader and it had some fault codes

low voltage from map sensor
low voltage from throttle sensor

man not sure why that is

but i have noticed i think i have the shudder from the gearbox i have read in the other post when taking off in first, before i had my wagon fixed and i think it was way more grunty before they updated the ecu, it shuddered way worse in first, but after no shudder, now with my part blank and more boost i have a little shudder in first, and with the throttle valve unplugged it shudders a little more in first at take off.

i might have a look at the mounts

i had the scanner plugged in while going to a work site, mine showed 100% throttle all the time while driving and only ever adjusted if i pretty much came a complete stop then dropped to 20%, once i took off even very light throttle it would go straight to 97-100%
it never adjusted when i let off the gas just stayed open and pretty much had to come to a complete stop before it would close the throttle valve.

on shut off with the valve unpluged it just seem to shut down as it would normaly no run on or lumpy shut down?

anyone with their scanners like to share there map sensor readings at idle?
I would like to get a base figure for 3.2 engines

[sierra]

Tsenior,

I'm confused about the readings you gave?
Going to work, I assume you had the TB plugged in to get a 20% reading or that wouldn't be possible as it needs power to close it. If those were your readings plugged in then it's not restricting your power or have you already intercepted the ECU signals?
Then you said you had it unplugged at shut down when it seemed normal and not lumpy?