Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[RHKTriton]

Tis weird how some and some are not getting issues as result of EGR / W'gate mods.

Might be worth noting build date of vehicles with probs and those without to get a profile of where the prob is caused. I have now been driving 12k with blanked EGR ( hot and cool weather ) & 10k with W'gate about 2/3 on thread without probs. I have now driven a couple of weeks with the throttle valve disabled and everything has been good ( with a permanent engine light - just to let me know the ECU is still kicking ). I told my dealer up front that the EGR was blanked off when it went in for the 15k service - might as well save em hunting, if a code was thrown up during the service.

Amazing how much contamination is caused by the EGR. With around 4k since oil change, you can still see through the oil. With our PUG, which I also discovered has EGR, the oil has gone black in under 3k.

Simply no debate anymore - will be looking at the PUG next to kill the EGR.

[rick]

i had a complete engine fail and light on saturday. ill be disconecting the battery tonight to see if that works.

[sierra]

Since those without problems seem to be in the minority and it could be before a certain build date?

2.5 Sept 08 no problems.

[boostedbmw]

did my oil change yesterday and also notice how CLEAN the oil still was after 5000k's. I have had no problems with my plates causing a warning light at all. BUT when i made my first blanking plates, i blocked off the back gasket and not the bottom one on the EGR itself. This caused a fault as it was allowing the valve inside to hit the plate i made.

[sierra]

Just changed mine too and wish I had changed it when it was new and not now at 7,500km.
Filthy slop, especially the bit that drained out of the filter which was very thick and black. Since new the oil light has gone out a couple of secs after it starts, now it goes out before it starts, when it's cranking.
I took my EGR right off once, to have a look at the thing and can see what you mean by blanking immediately under the valve itself, it would restrict it opening.

[new44]

Temperatures both outside and engine may play a small part in tripping a sensor....My first real hot day and accelerating from about 85, 90 KMH did the engine light on mine..
We must be close to somebody figuring this out.

Build Date 10 --08

6000 km

Plate Mod only

[sam]

Initially I was getting limp mode and/or light when I first installed the blanking plate.

Overnight battery disconnect seemed to solve that problem, and haven't had one for many months now, even while running my TDC Powerbox on setting 5

I've only ever had 1 limp mode where it lost power and the C/C wouldn't work but no light and so did the battery disconnect overnight and have not had any probs since like subi so could be worht a try

[NTBB]

The service tech was positive that the reflash will reset the learning process that is why he said mitsu advises to put 1000kms on the clock before reporting back.After a 1000km mine has learnt to drop power more often
09 VR
8/08 build
3.2
egr blanked 3000km
now done 10'000km
plate removed last night (won't leave it out too long but i have been told to leave it the f@%k alone)

[Snooozy]

Blanking plate in now for around 2 1/2 mths, & almost 3000km.

Never had a light or limp mode.

I haven't done wastegate arm mod.

Never had a re-flash

Doesn't seem to make any real difference with fuel economy. Hangs around the 9-9.5 km/Lt (just over 10lts/100km)

Turbo spools quicker & has more whistle.

Unless anybody can come up with a really good reason, the plate is staying in.

[Homer]

Have the people with limp mode issues wound up their wastegate arm as well?

[liamb]

possibly we need to come up with a survey to find out the conditions that possibly cause the errors. Possibly start a new post or a poll.

Maybe a list of things like

ML year
Engine Type 2.5 or 3.2
Km on clock when plate was installed
time/ km before first limp or engine light
Any hot fixes / reflashes and if they were done before or after plate was put in does it limp engine light still after fix
wastegate arm adjustment and an accurate boost reading if possible, before or after plate install
manifold type, new under warranty or old, before or after plate install, does it limp engine light still after fix
manifold clean under warranty, before or after plate install does it limp engine light still after fix
conditions that bring on limp or engine light ie towing, heat, loading up hill, freeway cruising, city driving
oil breather or catch can fitted.

I am sure there are more things to ask but this might be a start.

Cheers

Bill

[RHKTriton]

Wonder what the boffins at Mitsu are getting paid for??

[GLX-R Alex]

I have an idea... My egr blanking plate is installed to stop soot etc, The benefits i got were better turbo spooling , more torque earlieer etc, i want too keep that.

Now the engine ecu is taking inputs from the egr valve position etc and when it sences a problem it does a limp homre..

Maybe with the egr supply blocked it creates a lockup in the valve body,there is normally exhaust flow from the egr pipe at pressure, on the other side of the valve is the intake pressure/vacume. so in certain conditions, light transition from inet vacume to accelerting presure, the egr valve wants to move but is disturbed /restricted /stuck due to the blocked exhaust side of the valve.

If i were to install an egr blanking plate with a 0.5mm restricter hole in it, It would block the egr flow by 99.5% and hold off most of the soot, BUT, allow the equlisation of pressures on either side of the valve piston and maybe eliminate the fault condition. Assuming that the fault is created from the dissrupted valve piston movement from its inability to bleed pressure/vacume from the blanked exhaust side..

Just thinking.. This is my next experiment on the weekend..

An EGR blanking plate with a tiny restrictor hole....It may cure the limp home modes but let us keep the faster turbo spooling

[Naff]

I think you will find that the hole will block up with soot very quickly. When I took my plate out it was caked in soot.. but I like your idea - make the hole a fraction bigger??

[sierra]

I think you will find that the hole will block up with soot very quickly. When I took my plate out it was caked in soot.. but I like your idea - make the hole a fraction bigger??

How about just giving the valve a good clean and some dry film lubricant like silicone?
It will stay spotless with the plate in. I suggested the bleed hole some time ago but keeping it open is the problem?
Isn't the valve spring loaded in the closed positon? If it is, the clean and polish should work.

[liamb]

I think an option may be to vent the EGR tube/pipe to air or a catch can. It would involve fitting an outlet somewhere between the valve and the plate/ manifold, but I think it would help if it was an airlock, but this may also show the ECU a constant air flow??

Bill

[sierra]

I think an option may be to vent the EGR tube/pipe to air or a catch can. It would involve fitting an outlet somewhere between the valve and the plate/ manifold, but I think it would help if it was an airlock, but this may also show the ECU a constant air flow??

Bill

When the valve opens you would be venting boost pressure, if it opens during boost?

[liamb]

good point more thought!!!!!!!

Bill

[new44]

Engine Light on.

22 Hour Batt. disconnect, Engine light still on.

I think I will just put up with the light for a while. See what develops on this site.
Probably get a scan gauge so I don`t need to visit the local Mitsubishi.

Cars used to be easier when we only had a couple of red dash lights for Alt, door and not much else.

Damm computers are taking us over...

Still happy with my rig though, goes like a dream.

[mad992]

new44, i suggest just taking the pita blanking plate out for good,these 3.2 did dont like em,you will be surprised just how good our trucks go standard with ecu reflash, so get to dealer get reflash and dump blanking plate i did and many others have cause its a pain in the ass

[RHKTriton]

Just look at the size of the soot pipe!!!

When the throttle valve closes off and the EGR opens there must be a massive burst of krapp going into the pots.

Sounds like some have installed the blanking at the valve end of the deal - where it may interfere with its movement, which may be detected by the ECU.

You would expect the limp mode only to be initiated when the ECU parameters that affect engine life/safety to be affected. This would probably include over temperature in some points around the engine, excessive revs, may timing tolerances between different flaps operating, etc.

It could be that the ones getting "limpy" motors have sensors near the edge of the tolerances and when EGR etc is played with, the alarm levels are reached.

I had a quick play with the Throttle flap plug yesterday and measured the voltages on the pins. Looks like the actuator is driven by two 12V supplies when the "ignition" is on and 5V is used on the position sensor.
I am guessing that one of 12V wires will drop in voltage causing the flap to rotate when required. Next step is to check what's cooking on the EGR. If this works on a similar scheme it should be possibel to do a little signal switcharoo and the throttle will be "tamed".

As a final - where do most temperature dials sit? Mine is nearly constantly in the middle.

[new44]

Dito Temperature on my Manual 3.2

Slightly towards Hot than Cold!

[snowman]

As a final - where do most temperature dials sit? Mine is nearly constantly in the middle.

82 deg celcius. c/o scangauge

[liamb]

never gets over 81 even in 41 deg heat with aircon on and inlet temp around 54 max in traffic. I understand 80 is about standard

Bill

[GLX-R Alex]

I get 79 deg to 80.. Never seen 81 deg. Intake air about 39 when cruising to 55 when flogging