Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby Jitsukablue on Fri Jan 22, 2010 6:14 pm

Sorry, I missed something, what is the ECL and how do we delete it?
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby Greedy on Sun Jan 24, 2010 1:12 pm

Jitsukablue wrote:Sorry, I missed something, what is the ECL and how do we delete it?

Having a guess at the computer code generated on startup with the throttle plug disconnected. Scanguage or similar to remove it.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby GLX-R Alex on Wed Jan 27, 2010 2:11 pm

My engine oil at 10000km looks hardly discolored with the EGR blocked..
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby Greedy on Wed Jan 27, 2010 2:23 pm

GLX-R Alex wrote:My engine oil at 10000km looks hardly discolored with the EGR blocked..

Just did a 7.5K change (52500km) and the oil looks heaps better than usual. Certainly blacker than new but no sludge quality about it. 8-)
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby Mccann on Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:16 pm

Well just to add another story,

Installed plate mid Dec, about 3000k's. Was very happy and impressed with the low down performance, early spooling etc. etc. I have done nothing else to the car. had done some short (10km) highway runs but mostly urban driving. Jan 5th Driving from Brisbane to Hervey Bay. about 30 deg day, get to about 50 k's outside Gympie (1hr30min or so driving at 100/110) Cruise control disables itself, can not reset it, notice lack of power. S*!T, remember this thread, oh must be limp mode. No engine light.

Pull over, off, 1min, on, ok back to normal. Just driving out the other side of Gympie, just finished accelerating from 60 to 80, bam Light and limp mode. Reset again. Off we go, to my displeasure, engine light still on. Get all the way to Hervey bay (another 100k or so) all good. Tried disconnecting the battery for .5 hour. No help still light.

Next day took it 15km into town at 100/80km on the way back almost finished the highway zone and limp mode again. Took plate off the next morning, as I was going to Fraser in 2 days time and didn't want to go if it was gonna go into limp mode all the itme. Took it for the same drive, engine light still on but no limp mode (thank god). Next morning start her up, No light!

Nothing has happened since I took it out, now up to 5000k's and thinking of putting it back in, and seeing if the light will go out after 2 or 3 days (if I get another one (plz no!)). If that fails then I might try the little hole theory!
I always thought why doesn't someone do something about that...........
Than I realised I was that someone.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby sierra on Sat Jan 30, 2010 8:40 pm

Another alternative would be to get a Scangauge and unplug the throttle valve.
Each time you start up the check engine light will come on but it only takes about 5secs to clear it. The theory is that without the exhaust gas feeding the inlet manifold, when the butterfly closes the negative pressure gets too high for the ECU set range. With the butterfly left open you are unlikely to see any negative pressure reading[scangauge] and it should solve the problem.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby mad992 on Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:54 am

mc Cann, your storey is very similar to mine but i went to dealers to clear light [pita]so ive pulled plate out and havent looked back all good 8-)
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby sierra on Sun Jan 31, 2010 9:02 am

mad992 wrote:mc Cann, your storey is very similar to mine but i went to dealers to clear light [pita]so ive pulled plate out and havent looked back all good 8-)


That's always an option but it's a shame the inlet manifold is filling with carbon soaked with oil that's slowly but surely increasing the fuel consumption and reducing the power. Then there's the engine oil contamination.
It's easy for me to say though because I've had a faultless run since I slipped a plate in at 3,000km and now it's clocked up 10,000km. If mine was plagued by engine lights and loss of power I would either pull the plate out or unplug the throttle valve until I found a way to fool the ECU permanently without removing the check engine light after start up.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby RHKTriton on Sun Jan 31, 2010 12:13 pm

The oil contamination and manifold bog are virtually eliminated with the EGR blank. I've been running most of the time with the throttle disabled and jut ignore the Engine light. With my switch on the throttle supply I can fire up with the throttle operating normally and after a few runs the light goes out. Still got to interface this with the hand-brake, the it'll always go through the initialisation sequence and hopefully no lights.

I have also lifted the boost setting on the thread to about 2/3rd and am convinced that under extended load on a hot day, I will get a light for a period (even prior to EGR plate fitting ). Something I'd like to try is having a means of adjusting the boost remotely, eg with a motor operating a thread on the waste gate linkage.

I'm still curious if anyone has done any tests on backing-off the boost and any resultant effects on economy?
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby drover on Sun Jan 31, 2010 2:16 pm

Am I missing something here? Because mine runs along quiet nicely around 10-11L/100Km depending on load,sitting on 115Km (GPS speed) 125 speedo, idles good and going from 1st to 2nd has a tendency to spin the wheels in second if you fang it into it a bit at the intersections or round abouts and its done near 70,000 Km 60,000 running up and down the dog fence where it would of copped its fair share of plowing through bulldust, sand hills and mud before I got it and being a Govt, vehicle I doubt it would of had any mods done to it other than the bloody great big solid steel bash plate, roo bar side rails etc;etc; I am quiet happy with mine. :D :D
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby sierra on Sun Jan 31, 2010 5:02 pm

RHK,
I wondered what would happen if I ignored the check engine light.
Strangely mine seems sweeter with the throttle body connected, that's why I suspected it might be linked to the fuel injection in some way?
The easiest way to vary the boost is to fit a bleed valve to the throttle actuator/compressor line but it's been mentioned that it will need more fuel or you risk leaning the mixture and detonation.
You might find that a small turbo diesel using say 10psi to achieve 200Nm to cruise at 120kph, would use less fuel than a larger non turbo diesel at the same revs, speed and Nm. If that's the case then lowering the boost would only lower the maximum power but not reduce the fuel consumption at the same power. Might even increase the fuel consumption at the same power with less boost?

Drover,
Did you ever get that seat? I'm still waiting. :(
If you have the full service records have a look to see if it shows the inlet manifold being replaced and how many times?
How clean is the oil? That's not a lot of km's so you would expect it to be still fresh but have a read through the threads that show the problems others have had and the state of their inlet manifolds.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby sheepo on Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:51 am

all these ideas sound great but it seems we need a scangauge or simular just to clear any code faults
one more thing on the shopping list :roll: then these modes should all come together?
cheers peter
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby GLX-R Alex on Wed Feb 10, 2010 5:46 pm

Mine is running sweet, Throttle body unplugged and i cancel the ECL with the scangauge. My engine oil after the 7500 change interval looks like new, And i suspect my inlet is like new also, No bog..

On another note, I have had a surge of people buying Blanking lates in the last week. Can you believe there have been 80 plates now posted to people.... WTF..
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby borngeek on Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:02 pm

mine still running sweet too with Alex's plate in!

only had 2x limp mode (since mid oct09 flash update) both times with non premium diesel in tank...

i hunt the premium caltex's and the odd BP (when out of sydney no found a premium BP in city yet...)

getting ave 11l/100k in city and 9's on a trip.

go in for 16K service on 18th (at 17.5k now... :lol: ) will be leaving in my plate (again) and whinging about squeaky rear end and paint chipping off my 'leather' steering wheel... yer no real probs to report!

80 plates! sweet at least 80 of us have real performance!

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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby Greedy on Thu Feb 11, 2010 7:02 am

borngeek wrote:mine still running sweet too with Alex's plate in!

only had 2x limp mode

Same here. Very happy.

borngeek wrote:getting ave 11l/100k in city and 9's on a trip.

WTF!! Mine's the other way around. Gets about 10.5 around town and blows out to 11.5/12 at highway speeds. :x
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby NTBB on Thu Feb 11, 2010 10:02 pm

^^^What he said :cry: gotta go 100km/hr or less (spedo)to get below 11.5 :cry:
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby borngeek on Sat Feb 20, 2010 5:46 am

i think that the auto transmission helps on highway trips :?:
esp as i use cruise control and never over the limit much... :)
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby Auslander on Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:26 pm

Since i installed Alex's EGR plate, I have not had any issues at all, running sweet. Haven't touched the throttle body, still plugged in. I do notice a slightly longer idle when i turn the vehicle off and maybe not as much compression when i take my foot off the go pedal?. Still out on that one.

I haven't got a Scangauge, so happy i haven't had any error's. Will be taking the tonner to the farm this weekend(27th-28th), will be the second trip down south since i bought the vehicle, will be the first with the EGR plate in. So i hope to get no errors on that trip :cry:

All up done 3k sofar, and 2.5k have been done just to the farm and back. Thank god for ESC. 1 tonne utes are always dodgy in the wet, but going round those Oxley highway bends between Walcha and Wauchope can be interesting even in a normal vehicle, but downright dangerous in a 1 tonner.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby Snooozy on Tue Feb 23, 2010 8:07 pm

My plate has been in for just under 6mths & about 6500km.

Never had engine light on, never had limp mode, Scangauge fitted- no codes.

On two occasions I did have power loss on steep hill, not sure why but the A/C was on at the time. Improved when turned A/C off.

I have not altered the waste-gate arm.

GLX 3.2D Manual

Fuel economy does not seemed to have altered.

Happy with the plate & sure its protecting the engine. :D :D
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby RHKTriton on Thu Feb 25, 2010 10:37 pm

Well might have finally got the limp mode a few weeks ago, when I placed a washer under the waste gate actuator giving equiv of thread fully wound up. On the way home from Melb the Cruise wouldn't cut in and power seemed limited.

Next morning removed packing and everything resumed normal operation.

I still can't see how fitting the EGR block and the manifold end would ever cause an occurrence of the engine light that some are getting. esp. if the boost hasn't been altered. If you fit the blank at the valve end you will probably interfere with the valve and its position sensor will dob you in.

I've got about 13.5k on this oil run and it looks pretty dam good - not much worse than a petrol engine over this distance.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby madf on Thu Mar 04, 2010 8:15 pm

Hi guys,
Been following this forum for quite sometime. I wanted to fit the blank plate but just can't get anyone to
cut one for me. I am frm Malaysia.
However, this morning i unplugged the EGR valve cable. What i can say, the engine feels more responsive
from around 1600RPM. And less noise when cruising. CEL did came out but i ignored as i knew why. I intend
to unplug the cable permanently, as am very happy with the diff. in terms of power.
The question now, 1) since i have no blocking plate, will it clog the metal hose?
2) If i were to ignore the CEL for a long time, what if there are any other problems
3) How will the fuel economy be
Hope u guys can shed some lights here.

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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby sierra on Thu Mar 04, 2010 8:50 pm

I made one out of thin stainless steel but the drill grabbed on the second hole so I got a decent one from Alex.

You could easily make one yourself and I would use aluminium sheet about 1.5 - 2mm thick. The exhaust is cooled and alloy is much easier to work with. You need a hacksaw, a flat file and an electric drill.
Assuming you have the 2.5? Remove the 2 lower EGR bolts and you might have to loosen the top 4 to slip the bottom gasket out. Use it as a template, leaving out the 2 bits that stick out. Pop it back together with a bit of sealer on both sides of the blank. If you want the dealer to think it's standard then use the old gasket too.

Unplugging the EGR should leave the valve closed and be the same as having it blanked except you wouldn't have the ECL on. Again, if it's the 2.5 you shouldn't have any problems after blocking the EGR, unlike the 3.2.

Fuel economy should be a bit better and oil will stay cleaner.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby daryn on Sat Mar 20, 2010 8:58 pm

Has anyone who has the DPS chip and EGR plate noticed that Alex's suggested install place is different to ChipIts install place ??

Or am I seeing things ???

If I am not seeing things is there a difference to which place you use ???
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby snowman on Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:02 pm

Daryn,

on page nine of the Chip It EGR install guide, it says you can place it on the top or bottom of the pipe.

alex puts his on the bottom near the fire wall.
Last edited by snowman on Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Closing the Egr Valve

Postby daryn on Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:24 pm

Cool, thanks snowman, see I wasn't seeing the right things, probably skipped pages 2 to end as I usually do.
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