Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[cookoy]

sweet!! thanks for the idea, i do believe i have a couple of those aquarium air stones hanging around the house somewhere

[Sky Miner]

Who would have thought.....
What you need to do is go to your pet store and........ brilliant

[Newguy]

Why do we need this?

[fridgie]

Why do we need this?

Haven't you learnt from this site

You need not understand why, you need just know you need

[Cowboy Dave]

If you're not running a chip but are running an EGR plate it can help to stop engine fault codes due to irregular pressure readings.

[Longranger1]

Why do we need this?

Apart from better performance, better fuel economy (if done right), smoother running, lower egt's at cruise (dependant on how it is done), cleaner engine oil between changes, no degradation of performance over time due to carbon build up in the intake manifold, better reliability, longer engine life etc, etc, etc... apart from that why would you need it?

[cookoy]

okay, i just finished installing my blanking plate, and i already did the map sensor bypass... so now for the test drives, hopefully no codes show up... i have grown to really hate that CIL!!!

you guys have a great weekend!!!

[irwazza]

Fml, seriously, could they make it more of a pain in the ass to remove the bolt closest to the firewall?????

[Sky Miner]

^^^^ Why do a bunch a thai's giggling to themselves in the smoko room come to mind

[fez]

just wondering instead of using the fish filter block could you. Just run the line back to the top side of the air box and use a bulkhead fitting to make sure every thing is sealed

just an idea. as i'm looking at doing this and don't want the dealer asking questions.

[sierra]

just wondering instead of using the fish filter block could you. Just run the line back to the top side of the air box and use a bulkhead fitting to make sure every thing is sealed

just an idea. as i'm looking at doing this and don't want the dealer asking questions.

That sounds alright but I would keep the valve close to the 'T' piece to keep the reaction to low pressure as quick as possible.
How about tucking the filter behind that plate on the bulkhead close to the MAP sensor and or getting one that's black or grey?

[fez]

yes the valve close to the map sensor

ok that would work to but wat about water if you go through a creek crossing. i'm just thinking later on down the track to. if the filter is wet won't the engine suck in a little bit of water. or would you just put a small bag over it and tie it off

[toby_w88]

The ideal solution to my way of thinking would be an in line module that takes the actuator signal and feeds back what ever value the ECU wants to be happy and essentially leave the flap open until the value is detected for engine shut off.

Its pretty amazing just how much the flap moves about during driving.

Another idea I had a while back was to use the EGR signal to kill the Flap when its trying to do its DIRTY stuff.

sorry to bump an older part of the topic, I'm yet to blank EGR but considering options at the moment, given recent experience, wonder if I can just get away with somehow disconnecting the throttlebody.

With my MN, I had an "injector timing issue" (thats what mitsubishi called it, think they had no idea so just re-flashed ecu) which disappeared when I unplugged the TB. I didn't get the engine light if I plugged the TB back in before turning car off. While unplugged got excellent economy and the car drove pretty well too...

when I was running diagnostics myself, EGR is set to 0% while TB is unplugged, so probably cant use it as a trigger as it would have no signal(?) but what I'm thinking is, if EGR is disabled while TB is unplugged, would I still need to blank it?

just a crazy idea, probably need something alot more complicated to do it

anyway, what I'm thinking is a relay, wired to kill circuit to TB when triggered (by ignition or some other sensor being triggered(?) so while the engine is on, the TB has no power (and should be open) but when trigger is gone, power is restored to the TB, to counter rough shutdown. Probably need a microprocessor controlled unit plugged into the actual TB plug to achieve it tho (like Sprint booster is with the acc pedal)

[sierra]

yes the valve close to the map sensor

ok that would work to but wat about water if you go through a creek crossing. i'm just thinking later on down the track to. if the filter is wet won't the engine suck in a little bit of water. or would you just put a small bag over it and tie it off

The engine bay would have to be flooded up to the bonnet and I would imagine there could be problems with electrical connections to the ECU at that stage? The amount of water wouldn't be enough to do any damage[famous last words] but it might stuff up the MAP readings if it actually got into the MAP line?

A plastic bag with an elastic band would certainly protect it for a creek crossing.

If you can find a 4mm barbed fitting suitable for the big rubber air hose leading into the throttle butterfly valve, you can solve that problem and leave out the one way valve too because it will be feeding boost pressure to the MAP line. The same as it is when the butterfly is turned off and stays wide open.
If you try that, keep in mind the boost pressure in that hose and the need to have a fitting that spreads the load around the hole so that it can't be pushed out. A 4mm barb bonded to something like a 30mm dia rubber washer 2-3mm thick pushed through from the inside and a curved 30mm dia outer washer locked on with a nut at the barb base would be ideal? If such a thing exists somewhere?

Or put a switch on the dash and turn off the throttle butterfly as soon as the check engine lights have gone off at start up and turn it back on before you turn the engine off. That way you don't need the one way valve and will run full boost all the time, not minus 3psi up to 1/4 throttle.

Sorry, that went on a bit!

[sierra]

sorry to bump an older part of the topic, I'm yet to blank EGR but considering options at the moment, given recent experience, wonder if I can just get away with somehow disconnecting the throttlebody.

when I was running diagnostics myself, EGR is set to 0% while TB is unplugged, so probably cant use it as a trigger as it would have no signal(?) but what I'm thinking is, if EGR is disabled while TB is unplugged, would I still need to blank it?

just a crazy idea, probably need something alot more complicated to do it

anyway, what I'm thinking is a relay, wired to kill circuit to TB when triggered (by ignition or some other sensor being triggered(?) so while the engine is on, the TB has no power (and should be open) but when trigger is gone, power is restored to the TB, to counter rough shutdown. Probably need a microprocessor controlled unit plugged into the actual TB plug to achieve it tho (like Sprint booster is with the acc pedal)

That's a very valid point about the EGR valve if it stays closed while the throttle body is unplugged.
If you can come up with a way of making it turn off after the ECU check and back on for when the engine is turned off then that would be the ideal solution. Not even a blanking plate needed and full boost all the time.

Good luck with a perfect solution!

Edit, Just noticed in the other thread you mentioned the throttle body is only open to 70% when it's unplugged.
It looks wider than that when you pull the hose off for a look with it turned off. Wide enough not to restrict flow at full throttle I would have thought?

[toby_w88]

Just pulled the throttle body off after 26000km the egr inlet looks like this



Definitely going to have to do something ASAP


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk... Coz apparently sigs are all the rage at the moment

[sierra]

You have to wonder how it can run looking at that!
Strange that some get 100,000km before it messes up and others as little as yours?
Not really sure what I'm looking at there? My ML 2.5 100kw[same as the MN] has the MAP take off in between 2 and 3 cylinders where the inlet manifold bolts onto the head. It looks like the inlet air temp. probe sticks through at 12oclock where that probe is on yours but the EGR inlet is at about 4oclock.

[burnah]

Has anyone with the valve pulled it out and tested whether it's still operating correctly?
I pulled mine out and the valve was stuck closed. I couldn't blow or suck hard enough to get it operating again. Had to push it with a nail in the end. I think the positive pressure had caused the rubber valve to become slightly embedded in the orifice it blocks. I'm wondering whether heat has anything to do with it.
Thinking of trying one of these:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FUEL-NON-RETURN-VALVE-CHECK-ROLLOVER-ONE-WAY-VALVES-/270812025164?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Sailing&var=&hash=item84b8825b98

I've whacked a new plastic one in and will pull it out in a few days to see if the same thing happens.
At least I know I wasn't getting codes or limps without any protection.
Might be worth checking if you've done the mod though.

Spent hours yesterday looking for hose clips small enough for the MAP line tube without any luck. Smallest I could find were 5mm and didn't touch the sides.
Can't even find anything on eBay. I did find a supplier of 4mm plastic connectors though.
http://stores.ebay.com.au/semoxainvestmentspl/Hose-Joiners-/_i.html?_fsub=3516577018&_sid=160155228&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
Fortunately one of the dinky auto parts stores had a 4mm barbed tee which I'll put in today, but still without clips. Wondering if I should just twist a piece of wire around the connections or use cable ties?
Anyone got any ideas?

[RHKTriton]

Black cable ties work fine Sierra. I think I found some suitable clamps in Bunngs garden hose accessory area.

Toby: The ideal trick would be able to switch between the fitted TB and a dummy actuator/sensor located somewhere (else!). That way the ECU can play with the ECU (dummy) and fulfil its fantasies and not chuck an error and then you could switch back to normal for shutdown. The changeover could be controlled by a suitable timer module.

The big hurdle in simulating the position sensor is that it is based on Hall Effect sensors (magnetic) no a simple resistive setup.

[sierra]

That's a shame Burnah.
Have you got a catch can on yours? Just wondering if the oil has stuffed it up?
How about spraying some silicon[lubricant] through the valve before fitting, to protect the seal and keep it from sticking?

The valve needs to open easily with say 1psi but not get rammed home permanently with 20-25psi.
Didn't Tony say his was handling over 30psi and still alright? Maybe it's the brand?

Black cable ties it is then RHK, cheers.
I might ask Mits how much 6 of their metal ones are?

[burnah]

Nah, no catch can. I bought one from supercrap about a year ago but never ended up installing it because my dealer's tech was so adamant that they should only be put in the 3.2L. He didn't explain why but was full on about me not doing it and I got spooked.
Spray of silicon might be the go. After I dislodged it with a nail, I re-installed it for a 5 minute drive and it was stuck again afterwards. The one I'm using now is a different brand to the first one so it'll be interesting to see if the same thing happens. I'll see how the replacement goes with a couple of drops of silicone and check it once the barbed plastic ones I ordered from sierra's eBay link arrive.

[viking shippy]

Right finally blanked of my egr valve 20k after my upper manifold was replaced on my 3.2 did
The stealers said that the lower was ok then ( under warranty)
now (out of warranty)and after mentioning that it was blowing smoke and surging under light load around 2100rpm.
they proceeded to tell me that the lower is blocked.600 bucks and they will clean it and fit a blocking plate with a 6mm hole in it installed close to the egr end .huh wtf...??
I wish I new I had the option back then when replacing the upper..to do both and block of the f$&@?er (oh noo still in warranty)
Knowledge is power. ..???
No codes yet scan gauge at the ready will do the fish tank valve fix when it does.
Now as for performance that f$&?$ed flat spot,dead spot,lag is gooone...
Drives like a turbo diesel should...with low down throttle response and not this 2 inch limbo land that the merry go round of crap recirculation takes place.
Now to my dismay this anti pollution gig of exhaust gas recirculation robs from Peter to pay Paul .designed on new cars that roll of the prod line ,now down the track we end up with inefficient carbon choked diesels polluting worse than before
this stupid piece of legislation was brought in for inefficient gass guzzlers 30years ago or so....go figure...

[toby_w88]

Anyone know the result of unplugging the EGR motor? apparently at 0V it is fully closed... I'm wondering if the ECU will detect voltage low and leave the TB open. Will obviously throw an error code tho

going through the 2007 uk service manual (which has the 4d56 DID) and learning a thing or two

just making a note for myself

TB
pin 1(R) = signal to ECU (Hall Sensor)
pin 2(W)= 5v in (Hall Sensor)
pin 3(B)= (?)
pin4 = voltage earth to ECU (hall sensor)
pin5(G-B)= servo ciruit
pin5(G) = servo circuit

[antoo]

I'm inspired by this thread ... Aussie ingenuity ... bloody determination ... and multiple solutions ... don't give up lads you (not me, all I can do is cheer) are going to crack this beast like a coconut.

[RHKTriton]

Can't understand how dealer happy to replace top manifold section for carbon under warranty and not the lower?

Does the carbon buildup stop at the flange???

I want to eventullay take the whole thing off and get rid of the swirl doovy and ensure all the sections actually line up smoothly.