Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[RHKTriton]

Tony

I'd say the flap closes for a few seconds when the key is turned off and resumes it's rest position (as you correctly say is open) .

This is the site I came across recently;

http://www.emitec.com/download/pressein ... r_engl.pdf

Re the 'flap'; I'm thinking the ideal solution would be to have two "throttles" in parallel via a Y piece either side. The added one would be manually operated via a switch connected to the handbrake switch and the original left to function as normal. With the EGR blanked off there would always be uniform pressure for the whole length of the intake circuit. Operationally, when you start up the normal flap can go through its diagnostic routine and the extra flap is shut. When you take off, the second flap is opened when the handbrake is released, allowing full airflow to be available. When you arrive, you pull on the handbrake as normal and turn off the engine (which will shut down without run-on).

Downside - very visible mod! At the moment I can run with the throttle disabled and it is better on take off at intersections, etc. The difference when driving around Melb is significant. The ECU detects this though, even if no light comes on as you get run-on when you shut off the engine. The light sometimes comes on during certain driving conditions and when you next start the engine. Re enabling the flap will see the light cancel after a few runs.

The neatest way would be to reprogram the ECU.

Ultimately all mods are detectable whether visually or via the OCB port.

The frustrating part is that we are paying significant $s for our vehicles, that are sold with poor engineering wrt pollution control - almost like when EGR first came out on petrol engines year ago.

[Tony]

Tony

I'd say the flap closes for a few seconds when the key is turned off and resumes it's rest position (as you correctly say is open) .

This is the site I came across recently;

http://www.emitec.com/download/pressein ... r_engl.pdf

Re the 'flap'; I'm thinking the ideal solution would be to have two "throttles" in parallel via a Y piece either side. The added one would be manually operated via a switch connected to the handbrake switch and the original left to function as normal. With the EGR blanked off there would always be uniform pressure for the whole length of the intake circuit. Operationally, when you start up the normal flap can go through its diagnostic routine and the extra flap is shut. When you take off, the second flap is opened when the handbrake is released, allowing full airflow to be available. When you arrive, you pull on the handbrake as normal and turn off the engine (which will shut down without run-on).

Downside - very visible mod! At the moment I can run with the throttle disabled and it is better on take off at intersections, etc. The difference when driving around Melb is significant. The ECU detects this though, even if no light comes on as you get run-on when you shut off the engine. The light sometimes comes on during certain driving conditions and when you next start the engine. Re enabling the flap will see the light cancel after a few runs.

The neatest way would be to reprogram the ECU.

Ultimately all mods are detectable whether visually or via the OCB port.

The frustrating part is that we are paying significant $s for our vehicles, that are sold with poor engineering wrt pollution control - almost like when EGR first came out on petrol engines year ago.

Interesting!

Like the reset ecu parameters Idea.

That flappy things only purpose is to induce more intake vacuum to assist the stinky EGR on a idle, light throttle and on a light trailing throttle with overrun . Unplug it, the truck drives similar, no noticable run one etc. Will see a intake air sensor code.
As you stated, it's all emissions... this seeming god saving flappy thing will not save our engine if self fusion should ever occur. a manual override would however Like the idea. Could be set up with a micro switch and return solenoid. Just what we need, another quirky modification

[RHKTriton]

Something worth noting re a run away engine; its advised not to block the air intake at the airfilter as you could cause damage to the turbo oil seal (big bucks result). You may also suck more fumes via the crankcase breather - more prob.

Best would be to have overide to force throttle flap shut on demand.

[Longranger1]

With an engine self-fueling runaway, simply select 4th gear and let the clutch out with the brakes on.

These engines aren't that powerful to be overcome this way. I doubt that it would get too much air via the PCV hose to be much of an issue. I helped out a lady once whose 3.2 Navara was in runaway mode (blown turbo oil seal) by stalling it with the above method. That 3.2 must have been tough because the revs were through the roof and it didn't throw a leg out of bed (it had been screaming for a few minutes).

Having said that, I am not sure how much hp and torque is produced by poorly atomised engine oil .
I'll bet it is somewhat less than diesel.

[Cowboy Dave]

So what do us poor auto drivers do in the same situation?

[Tony]

Smoke your tyres and sht your selves I'd try to smother it somehow. Would have to be quick though

They smoke a bit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zx3qKX_ ... re=related

[gregned]

So what do us poor auto drivers do in the same situation?

Co2 extinguisher blast in the intake

[Cowboy Dave]

Does anyone know where I can buy a car sized CO2 extinguisher? All I ever see in the car parts places and hardware stores these days are the bloody dry powder models.

[gregned]

Hmmmm might have to adapt a sodastream co2 bottle then

[Tony]

..

[Tony]

Connect one of these and label it Nos

http://shop.ebay.com.au/sis.html?_nkw=F ... +AQUARIUMS

[Longranger1]

Connect one of these and label it Nos

http://shop.ebay.com.au/sis.html?_nkw=F ... +AQUARIUMS

Love it.

[coxy47]

OK guys so ive finally gotten around to blanking of the EGR valve and it appears that it has caused a significant increase in fuel consumption. Unfortunately i removed the OEM info screen so i dont have an average fuel figure so ill top up and check tomorrow but according to the fuel gauge ive used 1/4 of a tank and only traveled 88kms

I had a look through this thread and couldnt find a reason though i could have easily missed it in the 33 pages.

So any suggestions as to why? I have been driving like i normally do and nothing has changed from the last tank from which i got 10.5l/100km. The only other abnormal thing ive noticed is the manifold being under -2.2psi of vacuum when under light throttle.

[snowman]

Does anyone know where I can buy a car sized CO2 extinguisher? All I ever see in the car parts places and hardware stores these days are the bloody dry powder models.

why CD? Dry chem is very effective. CO2 - although cleaner only starves the oxygen to the fire for a very short period of time particularly in a partial flooding situation such as a car engine fire. The size of the smaller CO2 would have no real fire fighting effective use as the fire would reignite once depleted.

in the case of an accidental car fire they are usually always from an electrical fault or fuel fire (motor accident) and the mess from dry chem is probably the least of your worries (unless maybe an under dash fire ). In the case of an electrical fault one of the best things you can do is remove the connection to the battery ASAP and then extinguish, otherwise the continuing power supply will reignite it anyway.

Dry chem does provide good bang for your buck due to it attaching to the free radicals from the fire.

if purchasing a Dry Chem extinguisher always ensure you pay a few dollars more for an AB(E) (note the B) version. Always remove from vehicle every few weeks and 'turn over' like mixing a bottle of something as the constant vibration settles the powder into a denser solid. also once you even slightly open a dry chem extinguisher (any extinguisher really) you need to replace or refill it as the dry chem wont let it reseal properly and you will lose pressure over time - not much good when you go to use it next time.

Edit: how did this end up in the EGR thread.....

another post brought to you by NOTT.

double edit: ok i read back further. for runaways, my bad. in the case of that defender are you going to run in and dose the intake?

[gregned]

The CO2 was discussed as a tactic in the case an engine run on event happened.

[CALMAN09GLXR]

Is blanking the EGR valve on a standard 3.2 or 2.5 did engine a GREAT idea? Totally stock motor...

[Mooons]

Is blanking the EGR valve on a standard 3.2 or 2.5 did engine a GREAT idea? Totally stock motor...

Not sure but i dont think it will have any effect on your suspension

[CALMAN09GLXR]

Effing lol could have sworn I left my phone in an EGR thread. My bad guys

[Cowboy Dave]

Posts moved to somewhere more appropriate...

[coxy47]

Ok guys so ive got a question regarding the EGR valve and throttle body. Am I right in understanding that the if the EGR valve is open, the throttle body is closed and vice versa?

If so would it be possible to wire the system so that the when the EGR valve is opened, the throttle body is opened instead? I have a mate with D22 Navara and he has done something along these lines but he only explained it quickly (id had a bit to drink at the time) and i think the throttle body and EGR valve on it are vacuum actuated so I'm not sure if it will work on the Triton. Obviously some electrical trickery will be required but just looking to see if my concept is sound.

[sierra]

I think you're right, the throttle valve is only there for the EGR valve, also for the engine shut down.
So if the valve is wide open all the time the only negative is when you turn the engine off and it shakes a bit.
If you want to try driving with it wide open just unplug it after you start up. When you turn it off plug it back it afterwards.
That way you wont get a check engine light but it doesn't throw a code or a limp, not yet anyway.

[coxy47]

Yeh i was just curious to see if there would be a way to adapt that method to the Triton so we gained all the benefits of having the throttle body open all the time without any of the disadvantages or hassle of clearing a CEL or disconnecting it after startup.

Cheers for the reply.

[sierra]

Others have left it unplugged for extended periods and ignored the check engine light.
When you plug it back in it will stay out at the next start anyway. Give it a go, it's interesting. You can certainly feel the difference in the engine braking.
Strangely, although my EGR is blanked, I prefer it with the throttle body operating. It just feels crisper, weird!
Others prefer it wide open.

[coxy47]

Yeh ill give it a go and just clear the CEL.

Cheers

[RHKTriton]

Never ending story.......

As I've mentioned previously, I wouldn't start drilling holes in any of the expensive bits. One idea I had to achieve the same effect, would be to install a sandwich plate between the throttle body and manifold with a port providing about the same capacity as the EGR circuit. This port could be ported back into the inlet system somewhere between the intercooler and throttle body. You could even have an inline valve if you want to let the throttle completely close the inlet for shut down.

This would possibly also fix issues with incorrect or out of range pressure reading by the ECU.

One thing you will notice is that unplugging or disabling the flap is that it actually rests slightly off wide open. ECU sets it at wide open most of the time and closes it sufficiently when EGR is required.