Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

Closing the EGR Valve

Postby gregned on Sat Oct 02, 2010 5:00 pm

Here's an idea if they want to lower combustion temps why not use water injection?
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby mad992 on Sat Oct 02, 2010 6:37 pm

SARICE GRT DOWN TO SUPERSHIT AUTO AND BUT A CALIBRE CATCH CAN MATE ;) ;) ;)
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby tokirky on Sat Oct 02, 2010 8:00 pm

Yeah catch cans are covered else here but are a definate i reckon' and the dealers dont mind them either..
If its worth doin' its worth doin' right !
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby sarice on Sun Oct 03, 2010 4:56 am

mad992 wrote:SARICE GRT DOWN TO SUPERSHIT AUTO AND BUT A CALIBRE CATCH CAN MATE ;) ;) ;)



A provent has been fitted for a while now.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby mad992 on Sun Oct 03, 2010 6:33 am

sarice wrote:
mad992 wrote:SARICE GRT DOWN TO SUPERSHIT AUTO AND BUT A CALIBRE CATCH CAN MATE ;) ;) ;)



A provent has been fitted for a while now.



:oops:
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby NitroGLXRin on Mon Oct 04, 2010 9:24 am

gregned wrote:Here's an idea if they want to lower combustion temps why not use water injection?



Does that actually lower the temp? I thought it was a performance mod. and would probly increase nox levels. My thinking for this is the water would vaporize because of the temp during compression, then with all that extra oxygen and hydrogen the bang will be bigger and hotter. Have only heard of it used in drag cars and aircraft gas-turbine engines.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby gregned on Mon Oct 04, 2010 10:15 am

Taken from wiki


In internal combustion engines, water injection, also known as anti-detonant injection, is a method for cooling the combustion chambers of engines by adding water to the cylinder or incoming fuel-air mixture, allowing for greater compression ratios and largely eliminating the problem of engine knocking (detonation). This effectively increases the octane rating of the fuel, meaning that performance gains can be obtained when used in conjunction with a supercharger or turbocharger, altered spark ignition timing, and other modifications.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby quigley595 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 1:23 am

Folks....
I'm just about to blank the EGR. I have read every post in the thread..... but still need a few pointers.

I have got a plate from Alex (thanks again Alex), .....
1. is it really worth doing, considering that I know nothing about CELs, and Limp modes and resetting error codes etc?
2. are the plates for the ML and the MN the same? I have an MN.
3. if I undo the bolts, can I use the original gasket along with the blanking plate, or do I need to put a new one in?
4. where do I put the plate...... in position A, B or C in the photos below (taken from a previous post)? Position A looks to be the easiest place to get at.

5. should I also put a catch can on? Guess the answer to this one is a definite YES.

Here are the photos......

Click to view larger picture
and....
Click to view larger picture
and....
Click to view larger picture

appreciate any replies on this one, as I am just about ready to get the tools out to do this.

I ask the questions because of all the various comments re pressures, high temps, warranty issues etc.
I'm still keen to do the blanking though.
thanks folks
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby quigley595 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 10:59 am

Any thoughts folks??? I'm blue in the face reading the thread.... so many "yes", so many warnings.....

I'm still keen to do it though..... can't hack the idea of all that black soot mixed with the oil from the breather.

Not having a Scanguage though, I wont be able to reset error codes...... how would I go going to the dealer to ask them to fix a code.... will they tell me to rack off knowing that I had tampered with the engine?????
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby borngeek on Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:15 am

Just do it at point b.
Don't worry codes clear themselves,if you get a limp restart your engine and away you go ;)
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby quigley595 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:31 am

Thanks BornGeek......
just another one if I can.....
are the plates for the ML and the MN the same? I have an MN.
and if I undo the bolts, can I use the original gasket along with the blanking plate, or do I need to put a new one in?

rgds
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby borngeek on Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:36 am

Yes to all those :D
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby quigley595 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:40 am

Thanks again...... Now..... where are those spanners?

:D :D
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby biggibbo on Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:44 am

Hi quigley answers below in red.
1. is it really worth doing, considering that I know nothing about CELs, and Limp modes and resetting error codes etc? Yes the difference in low down grunt makes it worth it- I ran mine for ages without any CEL's and installed a chip so minimal chances of one happening now, but was not a prob previous to that.
2. are the plates for the ML and the MN the same? I have an MN. Yep, Same plate
3. if I undo the bolts, can I use the original gasket along with the blanking plate, or do I need to put a new one in? I just left mine in place and slipped the plate in behind it so I don't need to find it when I remove for servicing
4. where do I put the plate...... in position A, B or C in the photos below (taken from a previous post)? Position A looks to be the easiest place to get at. All the advice I got was position B as BG has said in previuos post - saves getting shit into the cooler box
5. should I also put a catch can on? Guess the answer to this one is a definite YES - Haven't done it myself yet but def on the list to do ASAP

Cheers Gibbo
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby quigley595 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 12:37 pm

Thanks Gibbo...... champion mate.
I'm looking forward to the time when I can assist someone.

rgds
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby borngeek on Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:05 pm

nice one gibbo and sorry for brief answers, i was on tapa and busy.... :roll:

let us all know how you go quigley!! I think you will enjoy the benefits :D
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby quigley595 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:23 pm

borngeek wrote:nice one gibbo and sorry for brief answers, i was on tapa and busy.... :roll:

let us all know how you go quigley!! I think you will enjoy the benefits :D

All done..... 15 mins work.
I didn't put any silastic on the plate.... thought I had some in the shed, and when I went to get it (after taking off the EGR stuff), didn't have any.

Anyways, see how it goes. Will post after a couple of tanks of fuel, say 1200 klms or 2 weeks.

Should have the catch can on next week sometime.... an Ebay cheapie, which I will stuff with stainless gauze. Pulled the breather hose off the air inlet before the turbo..... sheesh..... I'm glad that I'm not breathing that stuff in!I would rather lubricate my throat with the amber stuff than the black stuff. :D :D :D

rgds
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby hendo on Thu Oct 28, 2010 7:50 pm

quigley595 wrote:
borngeek wrote:nice one gibbo and sorry for brief answers, i was on tapa and busy.... :roll:

let us all know how you go quigley!! I think you will enjoy the benefits :D

All done..... 15 mins work.
I didn't put any silastic on the plate.... thought I had some in the shed, and when I went to get it (after taking off the EGR stuff), didn't have any.

Anyways, see how it goes. Will post after a couple of tanks of fuel, say 1200 klms or 2 weeks.

Should have the catch can on next week sometime.... an Ebay cheapie, which I will stuff with stainless gauze. Pulled the breather hose off the air inlet before the turbo..... sheesh..... I'm glad that I'm not breathing that stuff in!I would rather lubricate my throat with the amber stuff than the black stuff. :D :D :D

rgds
Mike

Did you put it in position A or B
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby quigley595 on Thu Oct 28, 2010 11:25 pm

hendo wrote:Did you put it in position A or B


I put it in position B. The pic at B shows a heat shield, remove that and then remove the 2 bolts underneath. Slide the plate in and bolt her up again.

Hope she is ok without the silastic. :) :) .. we will see. If not then it is only another 15 minute job to fix it up.

rgds
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby hendo on Fri Oct 29, 2010 3:41 am

quigley595 wrote:
hendo wrote:Did you put it in position A or B


I put it in position B. The pic at B shows a heat shield, remove that and then remove the 2 bolts underneath. Slide the plate in and bolt her up again.

Hope she is ok without the silastic. :) :) .. we will see. If not then it is only another 15 minute job to fix it up.

rgds
Mike

thanx mate keep us informed about how you go with catch can please
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby burnah on Sat Oct 30, 2010 4:58 pm

Stealer tech is adamant that catch cans are only for 3.2
Recommends against it on my 2.5 MN
Same geezer that said a small hole in the blanking plate eliminates MAP induced codes if your prepared to let a little bit of EG through. (Which has got to be better than limps)
I haven't canned or plated though, so I can't back either of his statements.
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Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Brett05 on Sat Oct 30, 2010 5:26 pm

I would assume any engine that recirculates hot oily fumes back into the intake would benefit from a catch can. Fitted one up to my sons Tri3.2 yesterday. Click to view larger picture
Click to view larger picture
Click to view larger picture
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Steane on Sat Oct 30, 2010 5:56 pm

burnah wrote:Stealer tech is adamant that catch cans are only for 3.2
Recommends against it on my 2.5 MN

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Ask him if he'll cover the cost of having the carbon removed when the MN is out of warranty.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby jop on Sat Oct 30, 2010 7:40 pm

Had my intake checked for carbon buildup at it's 60k service, blanked since 40k - a little buildup but nothing to worry about, still on original manifolds.

Mine has been run almost exclusively on bp ultimate and when it was not available bp + moreys diesel additive.

Pretty happy with that 8-)
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby mad992 on Sun Oct 31, 2010 11:47 am

jop wrote:Had my intake checked for carbon buildup at it's 60k service, blanked since 40k - a little buildup but nothing to worry about, still on original manifolds.

Mine has been run almost exclusively on bp ultimate and when it was not available bp + moreys diesel additive.

Pretty happy with that 8-)




hey jop
thats good but the new manifold is the goods make sure u ask for it to be changed 8-)

ive just put my egr plate back in with a 6mm hole so i will look for cel :x
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