Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby murwullambah on Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:09 pm

Hi, just been reading thread and looking at closing EGR off and had a look at my engine (challenger 2.5 same as triton)
can anybody tell me what the oblong manifold type thing that the pipes go into before the EGR is as i i have conflicting places as to where to block it off. Does the pipe come from the other side(exhaust) and then enter another box before it goes to the intake, sorry if this sounds confusing but im trying to work it out in my head how things work
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Tue Nov 02, 2010 8:25 pm

murwullambah wrote:Hi, just been reading thread and looking at closing EGR off and had a look at my engine (challenger 2.5 same as triton)
can anybody tell me what the oblong manifold type thing that the pipes go into before the EGR is as i i have conflicting places as to where to block it off. Does the pipe come from the other side(exhaust) and then enter another box before it goes to the intake, sorry if this sounds confusing but im trying to work it out in my head how things work


That oblong thing is a heat exchanger.... Makes the recycled gas more dense. Its best tp blank the EGR on the exhaust side of it....On the 2.5, its easiest to blank it on the left or front side of that "oblong" thing. Remove the heat shield and you can get at it. Don't drop the bolts! Just need a 10mm and 12mm spanners or sockets to do the job.

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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby hendo on Wed Nov 03, 2010 4:53 am

Few questions Fellas
Does the 6mm hole stop all limp modes if so would it help much keeping the egr gasses out?
How does oil get past the turbo to mix with egr gasses in inlet manifold?
If a catch can is installed what lubricates the turbo shaft (does turbo need lubing)?
Would a perferated EGR plate work say 15mm diameter of .25 mm holes?
really wanna do this mod but dont know much about limp modes or resetting
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby dazmit on Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:04 am

I blanked mine on the MN Triton and have had the engine check light on ever since. I took the plate out and drilled a 4.5mm hole but the check light is still on - maybe i should try a bigger hole.
Is there an easy way to reset the check light as i don't have a scanguage ?

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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby snowman on Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:21 am

i don't get the point of using a blanking plate and then drilling a hole in it. :?

it is like wearing crotchless undies - whats the point............ :?:

if you are having issues with the blanking plate and limp modes (i did) and assuming you want to avoid the problems of EGR carbon buildup then i reckon you only have two options;

1. Use an aftermarket chip which avoids this (the chip-it did for mine)

or

2. Use a catch can to remove the oily residue flows and leave the carbon alone.

By using a EGR plate and a hole you are only avoiding the inevitable AND potentially allowing it to occur after it is out of warranty.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Wed Nov 03, 2010 7:22 am

hendo wrote:Few questions Fellas
Does the 6mm hole stop all limp modes if so would it help much keeping the egr gasses out?
How does oil get past the turbo to mix with egr gasses in inlet manifold?
If a catch can is installed what lubricates the turbo shaft (does turbo need lubing)?
Would a perferated EGR plate work say 15mm diameter of .25 mm holes?
really wanna do this mod but dont know much about limp modes or resetting


6mm hole equalizes the sensor pressure's in effect. Try it with out first. if it bugs out because of the blank you will see the engine light stay on after a limp and will show the code for (Under boost) (List of codes here viewtopic.php?f=21&t=5977&start=0&hilit=list+of+fault+codes )
If this happens, then go for the 6mm hole. I don't see any point on a perforated plate as will block up in time.


The oil you see in the intake is mist from the PCV. The catch can will stop some but not all. (A good pro vent can with a filter screen works better).
This oil mist does not contribute to lubricating the turbo in any way. It has its own oil suply from the engine.
If oil is getting past a turbo you have problems! Usually results in the engine running off as will run on the oil.

I find the biggest issue with oil mist that fact it ends up through the intercooler. Has to be removed and washed out occasionally. The EGR system contributes to most of the carbon build up problems we're seeing.

You may want to purchase a scan tool of some sort so can read and clear any codes. Otherwise the dealer will be scratching their heads as to the cause :lol: ..... Been a lot of map sensors replaced I'd say. :roll:

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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby murwullambah on Wed Nov 03, 2010 10:53 am

Ok guys thanks for the info, couple of other things, does the car always throw a fault code (2.5 DID) as i have a new challenger and am a bit worried if it does how to get rid of it and what the dealer will say if i have to take it to them to clear. Can you get the code cleared elsewhere and what is a scanguage? what does it do, is it worth getting one, thanks again for all your info
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby lazarus on Wed Nov 03, 2010 11:50 am

Had blank plate in on MN for the past 3500km and so far did not have engine light on or limp modes.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby snowman on Wed Nov 03, 2010 12:16 pm

murwullambah wrote:Ok guys thanks for the info, couple of other things, does the car always throw a fault code (2.5 DID) as i have a new challenger and am a bit worried if it does how to get rid of it and what the dealer will say if i have to take it to them to clear. Can you get the code cleared elsewhere and what is a scanguage? what does it do, is it worth getting one, thanks again for all your info


search 'scangauge' in the thread title (only) and you will find heaps of stuff. Ample-Outdoors represented by freestylecab may still do a newtriton discount.......

They will clear an ECU (engine) fault light, assuming of course the source of the fault light was temporary or is rectified.

info here;

http://www.ample-outdoors.com.au/store/
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby NTBB on Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:47 pm

Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby hendo on Wed Nov 03, 2010 4:44 pm

GLX-R MN wrote:
hendo wrote:Few questions Fellas
Does the 6mm hole stop all limp modes if so would it help much keeping the egr gasses out?
How does oil get past the turbo to mix with egr gasses in inlet manifold?
If a catch can is installed what lubricates the turbo shaft (does turbo need lubing)?
Would a perferated EGR plate work say 15mm diameter of .25 mm holes?
really wanna do this mod but dont know much about limp modes or resetting


6mm hole equalizes the sensor pressure's in effect. Try it with out first. if it bugs out because of the blank you will see the engine light stay on after a limp and will show the code for (Under boost) (List of codes here viewtopic.php?f=21&t=5977&start=0&hilit=list+of+fault+codes )
If this happens, then go for the 6mm hole. I don't see any point on a perforated plate as will block up in time.


The oil you see in the intake is mist from the PCV. The catch can will stop some but not all. (A good pro vent can with a filter screen works better).
This oil mist does not contribute to lubricating the turbo in any way. It has its own oil suply from the engine.

Thanx for answers starting to work it all out now might just leave mine way it is untill get intake manifold replaced then do blank plate and chip it
If oil is getting past a turbo you have problems! Usually results in the engine running off as will run on the oil.

I find the biggest issue with oil mist that fact it ends up through the intercooler. Has to be removed and washed out occasionally. The EGR system contributes to most of the carbon build up problems we're seeing.

You may want to purchase a scan tool of some sort so can read and clear any codes. Otherwise the dealer will be scratching their heads as to the cause :lol: ..... Been a lot of map sensors replaced I'd say. :roll:

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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby snowman on Wed Nov 03, 2010 8:18 pm

NTBB wrote:Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?



no mate, this weekend.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby GLX-R Alex on Thu Nov 04, 2010 5:42 pm

My plate went in at 500km... I now have 30000km... My inlet is clean as a whistle.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby burnah on Thu Nov 04, 2010 8:47 pm

Steane wrote:
burnah wrote:Stealer tech is adamant that catch cans are only for 3.2
Recommends against it on my 2.5 MN

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Ask him if he'll cover the cost of having the carbon removed when the MN is out of warranty.



Hehehe, fair comment.
If I owned my ute I'd have modded the f@ck out of it shortly after I stumbled across newtriton.net.
This forum in its infinite awesomeness has tortured me incessantly for months. Every time I heard that a plate went in, a can was connected, a chip was inserted or a tune tweaked with massive or even limited performance improvements I cried into my beers and whinged to the missus that world was cruel and getting worse every day.
Unfortunately, it's a company owned ute and the two blokes that own it are bloody legends. I'm just not willing to risk their money by blowing the warranty and therefore will always be limited to the mods that a technician might be prepared to not notice.
Besides, the technicians at my local stealer have been open about their own opinions and the official stance. They're good blokes and I'll take their word for it.

I reckon someone's probably thinking right now that I can hardly be taken seriously when recommending against a mod that stops sh1t from spewing into your important bits. I'd probably be thinking; yeah, that's easy to say if someone else is paying for it. Again, fair comment except that it's the very reason why I care as much about my ute's health as anyone does.

Believe me, if I were you I'd be putting one in.
That is all.
:lol: :twisted: :lol:
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby mad992 on Fri Nov 05, 2010 9:31 am

GLX-R Alex wrote:My plate went in at 500km... I now have 30000km... My inlet is clean as a whistle.



alex except for the dreaded oil vapour :|
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby burnah on Sun Nov 07, 2010 12:06 pm

hendo wrote:
GLX-R MN wrote:
hendo wrote:Few questions Fellas
Does the 6mm hole stop all limp modes if so would it help much keeping the egr gasses out?
How does oil get past the turbo to mix with egr gasses in inlet manifold?
If a catch can is installed what lubricates the turbo shaft (does turbo need lubing)?
Would a perferated EGR plate work say 15mm diameter of .25 mm holes?
really wanna do this mod but dont know much about limp modes or resetting


6mm hole equalizes the sensor pressure's in effect. Try it with out first. if it bugs out because of the blank you will see the engine light stay on after a limp and will show the code for (Under boost) (List of codes here viewtopic.php?f=21&t=5977&start=0&hilit=list+of+fault+codes )
If this happens, then go for the 6mm hole. I don't see any point on a perforated plate as will block up in time.


The oil you see in the intake is mist from the PCV. The catch can will stop some but not all. (A good pro vent can with a filter screen works better).
This oil mist does not contribute to lubricating the turbo in any way. It has its own oil suply from the engine.

Thanx for answers starting to work it all out now might just leave mine way it is untill get intake manifold replaced then do blank plate and chip it
If oil is getting past a turbo you have problems! Usually results in the engine running off as will run on the oil.

I find the biggest issue with oil mist that fact it ends up through the intercooler. Has to be removed and washed out occasionally. The EGR system contributes to most of the carbon build up problems we're seeing.

You may want to purchase a scan tool of some sort so can read and clear any codes. Otherwise the dealer will be scratching their heads as to the cause :lol: ..... Been a lot of map sensors replaced I'd say. :roll:

Tony



The point of a perforated plate is clearly to reduce the EGR as much as possible without disabling your vehicle.
What you are suggesting is that the only sensible options are:
a) not blanked - exhaust gas shitting up your engine and pipes.
b) blanked - no recirculation with no problems
c) blanked - no recirculation with limps and codes


Option a) is obviously the least desirable
Option b) is ideal
Option c) is not one that anyone would choose, but many find themselves confronted with.

I think we can safely assume that anyone experiencing option c) intended to have option b).
It would be logical, in these unfortunate cases, to explore another option.

Option d) blanked with hole in plate - recirculation reduced with no problems.

If it blocks up after a while, remove it, poke the crap out and put it back.
What you are suggesting is that it's all or none - that if your going for b) and end up with c) you should settle for a)
Doesn't make sense to me.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby snowman on Sun Nov 07, 2010 2:43 pm

NTBB wrote:Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?


it is back in. no problems but i only drove about 10klms.

i will keep you posted if it limps.

i am a fair dinkum dope - i had no idea there was a boost controller as part of this package :oops: .....blimey *smack* uppercut. so it is not quite as stealthy as i thought - for the 3.2 anyway. i don't think 2.5's need mech control.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby snowman on Sun Nov 07, 2010 2:51 pm

burnah wrote:The point of a perforated plate is clearly to reduce the EGR as much as possible without disabling your vehicle.
What you are suggesting is that the only sensible options are:
a) not blanked - exhaust gas shitting up your engine and pipes.
b) blanked - no recirculation with no problems
c) blanked - no recirculation with limps and codes


Option a) is obviously the least desirable
Option b) is ideal
Option c) is not one that anyone would choose, but many find themselves confronted with.

I think we can safely assume that anyone experiencing option c) intended to have option b).
It would be logical, in these unfortunate cases, to explore another option.

Option d) blanked with hole in plate - recirculation reduced with no problems.

If it blocks up after a while, remove it, poke the crap out and put it back.
What you are suggesting is that it's all or none - that if your going for b) and end up with c) you should settle for a)
Doesn't make sense to me.


i agree with your logic right up to the end.....

other options are - go a quality cranckcase vent (pro vent) and leave carbon flowing (it will stay dry and should not stick)

or

go with the Chip-It to alleviate limps modes. it worked for mine and i know it has for others (4wd26 i think) - you dont have to run a heavy tune but if it takes away your limpies it is worth it - get a bit of extra power to boot as well.

or

leave it completely alone and budget a reasonable amount of money for a mechanic to remove and fully clean out the inlets and other bits that fill up if you run out of warranty. Some people find this perfectly acceptable in the scheme of things.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby NTBB on Sun Nov 07, 2010 3:15 pm

snowman wrote:
NTBB wrote:Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?


it is back in. no problems but i only drove about 10klms.

i will keep you posted if it limps.

i am a fair dinkum dope - i had no idea there was a boost controller as part of this package :oops: .....blimey *smack* uppercut. so it is not quite as stealthy as i thought - for the 3.2 anyway. i don't think 2.5's need mech control.


I reckon it is still more stealth then a cut map wire tho ;) Did they replace the pipe or cut it ? If they ran new pipe you can just put the factory one back on :)
Sounds promising with the plate and IMO a safer option then others to work around the blanking issues.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby snowman on Sun Nov 07, 2010 3:28 pm

good question - it looks new and is mounted behind the air box.

should ask if they still have my original.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Wallace on Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:49 pm

Snowman wrote

i don't think 2.5's need mech control.


No the MN has electronic control wastegate.
BTW with the blanking plate out and the Ekutec tune the EGR only operates at idle speed and not when the throttle percentage is increased , so in my thinking this should alleviate the carbon build issues that some people are suffering. Bearing in mind that I had my manifolds cleaned at 60,000klm and haven't a problem since. I have the upper and lower sections of the manifolds sitting at the dealer at the moment just have to find the time to leave it there for a day. ;)
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby mad992 on Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:59 pm

mine hasnt chucked a code yet so all good this time with plate and 6mm hole to balance pressure combined with catch can i can sleep well at night :lol:
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby snowman on Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:12 pm

snowman wrote:
NTBB wrote:Have you put your plate back in yet snowman ?


it is back in. no problems but i only drove about 10klms.

i will keep you posted if it limps.

i am a fair dinkum dope - i had no idea there was a boost controller as part of this package :oops: .....blimey *smack* uppercut. so it is not quite as stealthy as i thought - for the 3.2 anyway. i don't think 2.5's need mech control.


limpy :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

M2 - don't know what it is about this road. :? :?

mind you an MRT limpy is almost the same as standard :lol: :lol: :lol: standard limpy left me struggling to maintain 100klms on freeway unloaded. MRT limpy i could easily do 110 and accelerate.

back to the drawing board. :roll: :roll:
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Wallace on Mon Nov 08, 2010 5:28 pm

Take it out Snowie................with the tune we are running we don't need it..... ;)
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby NTBB on Mon Nov 08, 2010 6:02 pm

So no long idle down's or extended warm up's :| ......sounds like a catch can is now a must... Thanks for letting us know snowie wish the news was better tho.
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