Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

[RHKTriton]

I found it interesting how the air intake is just above the radiator. Would have to be one of the hotter spots to pick.

I did a bit of experimenting with ducting to pick up cool air from gap near headlight and basically didn't make any difference.

At the end of the day, all air gets "cooked" on the way through the turbo, so its all up to the intercooler.

[GLX-R Alex]

Ive done the same intake experiments and found the best whistle sound to be the standard pipe...

[mad992]

hey alex have you tried 2t in your truck yet mate

[sierra]

Ive done the same intake experiments and found the best whistle sound to be the standard pipe...

Had a look while I was looking at the A/C compressor and a simple mod that might work is to cut out the section of the rubber sealing strip fitted to the bonnet adjacent to the intake? The fittings work out quite well for removing the vital section which should allow cold fresh air to enter the intake.

[RHKTriton]

Had the same thought about the rubber, but then thought about potential splash of water being able to go the "gullet". I suppose you could have the section cut out and have a chunk that could be put back with some velcro - when needed.

I did reroute the radiator overflow hose to open up the area in front of the intake.

Another Idea I was thinking about was to open up the bottom of the air duct entry to catch the wash off the radiator fan - should give sort of pre-charge effect.

[sierra]

You would need a bow wave coming over the bonnet to feed the intake enough to cause problems. Anything less would get trapped and drain[assuming it's got a drain?] away from the bottom of the aircleaner body.

I can't believe I missed that overflow hose that must block 1/3 of the airflow, at least it would if the intake was fully open to the frontal airflow. Pulled it straight out of that clip and tucked just under the mouth as I assume you did?

I wouldn't let the fan feed any air to the intake. The air will be hot and there should be good pressure from the front at speed anyway with a fair gap under the leading edge of the bonnet. Another mod might be to open the up the plastic shroud that shuts off the air from in front of the radiators if the pressure there is greater than just above where the intake would suck if that rubber was removed?
Could someone with a scan gauge remove that rubber bonnet strip to see if the temp drops in the intake before anybody starts snipping a gap in it?

[new44]

After one week of engine light on. Used a quarter tank diesel.
Engine light has gone off by itself..

[mad992]

After one week of engine light on. Used a quarter tank diesel.
Engine light has gone off by itself..

how many klms on that fuel,and so the engine light does go out by its self

[new44]

Engine Light on Last Sunday 12pm,
Tuesday disconnect Batt. for 22 hrs. Light still on.
Ute out of shed 3 times for short 20 km trips each time. Light still on
Start the ute Today (Saturday 9am) No engine light.


Ute still runs great.

[GLX-R Alex]

Mine chucked a limpy today and for the first time logged a code and ECL... Scangauge P106 , cleared it and ECL gone.... I still prefer this over soot..

[RHKTriton]

Had another look at the air intake and rubber seal - not going to be much extra air sneaking in - if you look, there's already gap between fan shroud and rubber seal.

I have made a new cone pointing at gap around headlight. Bit of tweaking still required here. Last fiddle with this was in winter - so summer may show some results.

Also been playing with Throttle flap - noticed that the beast isn't fully open when de-energised! Needs about 1Amp going through the servo to reach an optimum position. I also found it needs about 5Volt across it to fully close the flap.

Next step - make some sort of rest that keeps the flap at best opening (with design that stops any bits going down the throat)!

I would still like it to slap shut for a sec on turning the engine off.

[sierra]

Had another look at the air intake and rubber seal - not going to be much extra air sneaking in - if you look, there's already gap between fan shroud and rubber seal.

There's gap behind it but it seals on the painted steel panel and effectively seals off any fresh air getting to the intake. Any air has to come up past the radiators.
Yes, there's some good gaps around the headlight. Need to stay away from the inlet to the intercooler for the turbo because that would get quite toasty at times. I might block the gaps either side of the radiator top plastic cover[part of the shroud] to stop hot air being drawn up.

How bad is the shut down with the throttle butterfly disconnected?
What is the angle from optimum 90deg.? If it's only small, it's so large I don't think it will matter?

[RHKTriton]

The angle of the flap is probably blocking a little more than the thickness of the flap and shaft. If I weren't in warranty I'd have the grinder out and profile the leading edge of the flap and thin down the shaft. Worked a treat on my old carbies years ago.

Shut down is not a huge problem - just diesels on a couple of turns compared to normal - little more if the aircon is running.

Intake to throttle body is nice and clean - good ole intercooler probably doing a good job of trapping all the oil from the rocker breather. ( Wonder when it hits high tide? )

I still don't get how vulnerable they make all the cooler cores on most of these vehicles. I am tempted to have a play with a slimmer intercooler that covers right across the grill and some mesh to keep the yonnies out.

[mff64]

I hooked up the scan gauge this morning and come up with a code 'P0106' and according too bd-codes.com it is MAP/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem.
It happened when i pulled up at a gate, got out too open it and could hear this sort of click/clunk noise twice and when i got back in the engine light was on. It didn't seem to make any difference to the motor in any way so i will clear it and see what happens.
It has done 2470km and the egr plate was put in at 860km along with the shorting of the wastegate arm.

I poped the bonnet to check the Australian compliance plate for the date.......looking, looking but either i am totally blind or it has not got one , the latter i suspect.
I checked the new vehicle contract and it has Jan/09 as comp date, WTF where did they get that from .
A phone call will be made in the morning, grrrr

[GLX-R Alex]

Same code as the rest of us with the EGR blocked... we will work out a solution sooner or later... Untill then i dont care for the odd engine sooky code. My truck felt quick az in the cooler air this morning...

[RHKTriton]

Well I made up a rest for the throttle flap with some bracing iron and set the flap to rest at horizontal and made a bit of duct to favour air from around the headlight and it seemed to go OK.

Got to 160kph without any hesitation in about 800 - 1000m (acc from around 70kph). Would have kept going if I didn't run out of road.

Hardly have to touch the loud pedal - even on slight uphill.

[GLX-R Alex]

Pics please

[mff64]

I will be leaving the plate in, just can't see the benefit of exhaust gas going back through the motor..........more harm than good in my book

[sierra]

RHKTriton,

When you look at the size of the cast alloy inlet manifolds and imagine the diameter inside them I still think the butterfly, even at a slight angle, shouldn't be restrictive to the airflow? Sounds as if you have picked up some noticeable power with the valve dissabled. How about the economy? The best mod might be to turf the butterfly right out, spindle too and live with the delayed shut down.
After 8,000km I'm quite happy with the power and never use full throttle except to see how far the travel is occassionally, so these mods are icing on the cake and make expensive power ups seem a bit pointless. Turning off the West Coast Hwy the other day, 2nd gear short uphill stretch to a roundabout, straight, slightly damp and both back tyres started squealing. This is the lowly 314Nm version of the 2.5 don't forget[part throttle].

I agree, some pics would be great.

[RHKTriton]

I'll try and get some pics when I have a chance to pull the hose off again.

The funny thing with the EGR mods, boost adjustment ( only gone about 2/3 ) and now the throttle angle, is that it just seems better straight off idle onwards. While the motor capacity suggests that the 3.2 is very mildly tuned compared to the euro diesels, I can't really see the value of power chips,etc. My unit is just over 2tonnes on the road and goes up hills in top gear, overtakes nicely and considering it has billy cart suspension on the back is a pretty good ride all round. I've even conceded that the bicycle chain driving the cams might last the distance..he he. (still can't believe an engine was still being built without hydraulic lifters).

In factory form, you have a huge pipe able to spoil the fuel mix with exhaust gas at various conditions. To get the sh.T to actually flow into the inlet manifold you have to put the brakes on the air pressure from the turbo - so you must be "de-energising the air/fuel mix and also restricting the boost at certain points.

Blocking the EGR is letting all the exhaust spin the turbine, keeping the fuel charge at its peak and not providing any unnecessary back pressure to the turbo.

To conclude: I still want the flap to work at shutdown - this is probaly more important when the engine has a few kms on it. If you ever get an oil leak in a crook turbo bearing or enough vapours from the crank vent, the thing could self fuel and you'd have no way to shut the beast down before she blows!

[sierra]

While I was out on a country run today a 3.2 GLX-R was gaining on me in the distance so I sneaked up to 112KPH from 102KPH and it cruised past at about 130kph sounding relaxed without a hint of smoke. Mind you the real estate agent I was following earlier was driving one of those ugly Ssangyong Actyon Sports double cab utes and giving its 2L diesel a caning but there wasn't a hint of smoke from that either, couldn't even smell the exhaust. Quite amazing really.

The throttle must be to 'encourage' the flow because I read somewhere that the exhaust pressure is always greater than the inlet manifold pressure but agree it must be better without having it strangling the flow. Here's an idea.
How about running the wire that powers the throttle to a switch near the ignition key and back so we turn it back on before we turn the ignition off?[Use it to shut down a runaway motor too]

The only disadvantage of hydraulic lifters is restricted high rpm and some power loss. Maybe they block up with the crap in the high detergent oil? I used diesel oil once, in my 2.6 petrol Courier engine at about 55,000km and ended up having to replace all the lifters. Mind you that was probably quicker than doing the valve clearances on a CRD Triton, took 1.5 hrs.

[RHKTriton]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the main design guy at Ssangyong came from Jaguar (Must be on drugs).
The Stavic takes the prize though! I said to the local dealer - if you can get past the divorce for buying one, you have to enter it in a dimly lit garage ( with no reflective surfaces ), wear shades with only thin slits to see through ( so you can't make out the image of the vehicle in any shop windows ) and wear a disguise so no one knows ya got one. Technically they aren't actually a bad package - but the arse end??

Back to the throttle - yes I am thinking along the switch idea, esp. if the flap plays a part in potential engine braking. A switch to defeat or normal use and an automatic control to always connect it on engine shutdown.
You would only have to cut the 12V supply that drives the flap to close and it will not operate - the engine lit would probably come on as the position sensor would tell the ECU its not moving.

Actually a temp. switch wouldn't be a bad way to test the impact of the flap while actually driving.

[sierra]

Could have been from Jag, they've made a few balls ups through the years.
Just checked out the Stavic and that rear end is hideous! So glad I could keep up with the agents monstrocity but it would have clocked up a lot of trouble free km's or 'Jock' would have told me all about it.

The switch could be a micro type operated off the throttle pedal so it's only powered at idle? That way it gives engine braking, clean shut down and stops the engine consuming it's own juices. For economy it would be better to have it open on the over run I would have thought?

My fuel consumption has crept up to 8.5 - 8.6L/100km the last couple of months and today I realised the BP was not BP Ultimate at the garage I had switched to about that time for cheaper prices. Can't believe I missed it all those times I filled up!

Yes, a switch would be a good test.

[Install]

Just to throw something different into the mix......
I have the blanking plate in but have never had a code thrown up yet and covered plently of KM's with it in.
If the codes are being triggered via manifold pressure/vaccum fiqures being possibly different to what the ECU is expecting to see; would the fact i have blanked the tappet cover breather line off from the inlet manifold and run a high flow K&N filter + a shortened intake tract have changed the vaccum/pressure readings to a point that the ECU is happy and doesn't trigger a fault code? Or is it overboosting (the intake pressure can vary 2-3psi with different temperatures on different days) that is causing the fault code on the utes that have used the EGR plate and wound up the wastegate actuator arm; total pressure may be just enough to trigger the overboost function and throw a code light up. I also run a MAP sensor bypass (Boost cut module) so the ECU is always happy with what ever manifold pressure it has, so is this why i don't get any codes with my EGR plate?.

Just thinking out loud ... probably all wrong as per usual

[GLX-R Alex]

could be related to the boost cut module, and the ecu only seeits happy range..