Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby gregned on Wed Apr 20, 2011 9:54 pm

To do this the air will have to be pressurised to the same pressure as the exhaust gasses which is at a greater pressure than turbo boost.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby argustuft on Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:15 am

Yeah had thought of that however the down stroke of the pistons would suck the air into the chambers , the engine light comes on because of low boost pressure due to the thottle valve closed at start up and the blank plate together causing a total vacuum. . How about if the air pipe was plumbed into the turbo side of the inletbefore the trottle body?
Was thinking all this because i had to poke a small wire up the boost /pressue pipein the manifold and chip the gunk off inside,07 ute has done 35000 looks like I have to pull it apart and clean it ... its not under warranty anymore
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Closing the EGR Valve

Postby fridgie on Thu Apr 21, 2011 10:31 am

Where you from mate? My 07 is still under warranty :?
I'm not so good with the advice :oops: ... Can I interest you in a sarcastic comment??? :twisted:



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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby argustuft on Fri Apr 22, 2011 8:33 am

Perth!!!!!!!
Iwent with the standard warranty of 3 years no extended.
salesman said i'd have to get every service stamped and would cost aprox $400 each then a once ayear big service of $700 to be eligable for the extended warranty seeing I like "play" with my toys and the savings would cover most problems if and when they occur.so I declined the offer. on the other side i havent had any problems with the ute at all except for the departure angle and thats not warrantble.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Fri Apr 22, 2011 2:26 pm

Longranger1 wrote:Well, I have been thinking about the MN limp mode problem when the EGR is blanked. One solution involves a little electrical jiggery-pokery which has the EGR servo operating a very small relay (preferably a solid state relay to prevent inductive spikes) which keeps it electrically separated from the absolute manifold pressure sensor (AMPS).
The EGR when operating will close the relay contacts which are series wired with a resistor to slightly change the voltage output of the AMPS so that when the EGR operates the sensor output to a corresponding value of say 105 kPa (instead of 99-100 kPa).
The beauty of this is that when the vehicle is operating in a non EGR enabling parameter, the AMPS is completely normal so no limp modes are created.

The second idea I had was to relocate the absolute manifold pressure sensor line upstream of the throttle flap valve. This negates the P0299 turbo underboost fault due to the low manifold pressure because the EGR is blanked and the throttle flap is restricting the intake so as to draw in exhaust gases. The logical place for the line pick up would be the black steel bend which goes through the radiator support panel. I am stuffed if I know why I didn't think of this earlier - is this a cure that is too simple? Am I missing something here? The former idea has merit but how hard would the second be? Piece of piss I reckon 8-) .

Any ideas Uber Techs :?:


Well, I have now done a mod which appears to be working well, actually so far brilliantly. It does involve brazing a 1/8" BSP 'nut' to the steel transfer pipe which goes through the radiator support panel (which was a bit of a PITA to remove). This is for a brass right-angle 3/16" barbed fitting used for the line take off.

Using a piece of 3/16" SAE J 30 R6 hose, I ran the line to up behind the engine then using a 3/16" "T" brass fitting tapped into the MAP sensor line.
The beauty of this is that the manifold pressure at the MAP sensor is never below the threshold of triggering a P0299 underboost code (at low speed cruise conditions the MAP reading is slightly boosting - say about 110kPa absolute). Full throttle conditions are unchanged from before. This also prevents a fault code as well by bleeding off excess back into the intake. This is easily 'tunable' as well.

When the throttle flap valve is fully open, the manifold pressure is identical to having the MAP line unchanged i.e. equalized.

An interesting quirk of the VGT set up is that a small amount of boost is registered on overun or downhill coasting. This is due to the expanded gas created from compression. You can notice the turbo spooling when you are running downhill with the throttle lifted (if you have a snorkel).
I'll see how this goes over the next 2-3000 km's and post results. 8-)
Intake manifold carbon free and oil free with no limpies! Yeehah! :D :D :D
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby argustuft on Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:31 am

pics thread is no good without pics
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Sat Apr 23, 2011 9:33 am

It is pretty simple mate. I'll try and post pics when time permits ;) . I want confirm all is well over a few thousand kays. I does drive really nice now though :D .
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby andyj on Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:34 pm

Tex wrote:5 year/130,000km :)


Agree tex and so long as it has been serviced by a mitsi stealer once the 10yr is automatic, I had the manifolds done at about 130,000ks under warranty.. just had the 4wd sensors replaced under warranty 172,000ks :D

Don't follow the 35,000ks 3yrs and then pay for more warranty Mitsi advertise 5/10 warranty
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Tue Apr 26, 2011 6:23 pm

UPDATE (For egr blanked MN vehicles only):

Early days yet, but over about 400km of combined highway/city driving over Easter the fuel consumption has dropped from around 10L/100km average to 9.3L/100km. Much, much less lag and a big improvement in throttle response (almost "SprintBooster" like 8-) ) :D .

Even better, low down torque is improved (especially noticeable off-idle on hill starts).

Not a fault code to be had and no Limpies! :D :D :D . This is despite setting up conditions which would normally throw a P0299 code. 8-)

Love that car!
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Wed Apr 27, 2011 11:04 pm

Longranger1 wrote:UPDATE (For egr blanked MN vehicles only):

Early days yet, but over about 400km of combined highway/city driving over Easter the fuel consumption has dropped from around 10L/100km average to 9.3L/100km. Much, much less lag and a big improvement in throttle response (almost "SprintBooster" like 8-) ) :D .

Even better, low down torque is improved (especially noticeable off-idle on hill starts).

Not a fault code to be had and no Limpies! :D :D :D . This is despite setting up conditions which would normally throw a P0299 code. 8-)

Love that car!


Doing a similar conversion here too. Not sure it will cure over boost on a big rev than over run though. Maybe a blow off valve :twisted: :lol:

I'll be running no chip for a wile to make sure things do function as should.
Only real difference will be a larger cooler, exhaust and some porting etc done.

I can assure you it is bizarre how much the EGR effects mine wile in standard tune :o
Have recently done some comparisons going right back to a stock exhaust etc wile ironing out another bug (Engine injector loom)
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Tue May 03, 2011 8:31 pm

Still no issues with mine as yet, but crikey, does it pull now. Over the weekend I took it up about a 15% climb and whereas before it would have been working hard(ish) in third, it now accelerates in 4th 8-) easily.

Since mine is stock, I think it changes the fuelling response fairly dramatically. It'll now break traction easily on bitumen just off idle in first - didn't do that before :lol: . The idea of what I have done was to cancel out annoying CEL and limp modes. I kind of predicted that engine response would improve - I just didn't realise that it would be this good.

As bizarre as as it sounds, the BOV might have some merit in your case Tony. Not sure how it would work though as the throttle flap valve doesn't operate the same as a petrol engine does.

I am getting useful boost pressure figures down low now - about 80 odd kPa (about 12lbs) at 1100-1200rpm.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Tue May 03, 2011 9:19 pm

Longranger1 wrote:Still no issues with mine as yet, but crikey, does it pull now. Over the weekend I took it up about a 15% climb and whereas before it would have been working hard(ish) in third, it now accelerates in 4th 8-) easily.

Since mine is stock, I think it changes the fuelling response fairly dramatically. It'll now break traction easily on bitumen just off idle in first - didn't do that before :lol: . The idea of what I have done was to cancel out annoying CEL and limp modes. I kind of predicted that engine response would improve - I just didn't realise that it would be this good.

As bizarre as as it sounds, the BOV might have some merit in your case Tony. Not sure how it would work though as the throttle flap valve doesn't operate the same as a petrol engine does.

I am getting useful boost pressure figures down low now - about 80 odd kPa (about 12lbs) at 1100-1200rpm.


Still playing here, so far cant get the VGT discrepancy so all good so far, seemed to have picked up more low end as well. A lot more :o Doesn't make sense but works. Intake pipe pressure may be tad higher than manifold so must ramp up fuel earlier? Soon have hole tapped everywhere lol.

Yea, no real advantage in blow off valve, was a joke really... Would be a trick to set up as have to pick vacuum up off the pump and switch via solenoid, relay micro switch.

Others watching, still cant guarantee this will work for all, OK
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Tue May 03, 2011 9:21 pm

Longranger1 wrote:Still no issues with mine as yet, but crikey, does it pull now. Over the weekend I took it up about a 15% climb and whereas before it would have been working hard(ish) in third, it now accelerates in 4th 8-) easily.

Since mine is stock, I think it changes the fuelling response fairly dramatically. It'll now break traction easily on bitumen just off idle in first - didn't do that before :lol: . The idea of what I have done was to cancel out annoying CEL and limp modes. I kind of predicted that engine response would improve - I just didn't realise that it would be this good.

As bizarre as as it sounds, the BOV might have some merit in your case Tony. Not sure how it would work though as the throttle flap valve doesn't operate the same as a petrol engine does.

I am getting useful boost pressure figures down low now - about 80 odd kPa (about 12lbs) at 1100-1200rpm.


Still playing here, cant get the VGT discrepancy so all good so far, seemed to have picked up more low end as well. A lot more :o Doesn't make sense but works. :? Intake pipe pressure may be tad higher than manifold so must ramp up fuel earlier? Soon have holes tapped everywhere lol.

Yea, no real advantage in blow off valve, was a joke really... Would be a trick to set up as have to pick vacuum up off the pump, then switch via solenoid, relay and micro switch.

Others watching, we still cant guarantee this will work for all, OK
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Thu Jun 02, 2011 7:17 pm

Update: Over a thousand kays since done - no issues whatsoever. Seem to have had a win with fuel economy with a 10-11% improvement.

Previously I was getting around 10L/100km, now the last tank full averaged 8.9L/100km. I am happy with that as I have bar work and a bit of extra weight to lug around. :D
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Earlyninja on Thu Jun 02, 2011 8:31 pm

Any pics Longranger? I just can't visualise what you did (in the descriptions you gave earlier in this thread) for the life of me :oops:
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Fri Jun 03, 2011 5:55 pm

finky_spoof wrote:Any pics Longranger? I just can't visualise what you did (in the descriptions you gave earlier in this thread) for the life of me :oops:


PM sent Finky :) .
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby John 1 on Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:22 am

Guys I just want use blanking plate to block EGR I called chip it and they said drill a 3mm hole I see you guys say 6mm, so I know little difference what do you suggest. I'm not running a chip yet as the motor's only done 500km
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Wed Jun 08, 2011 11:33 am

If you want to try the hole idea, 3mm can work for some. if not just work your way up to 6mm. Does still let some soot through. Another thing that works is, drill a 12mm hole in the top side of the manifold flapy thing. Is a bit extreme on a new vehicle though :roll:

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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby John 1 on Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:00 pm

Thanks Tony I'll just go for 5mm then don't take off again.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby biggibbo on Wed Jun 08, 2011 12:04 pm

John 1 wrote:Guys I just want use blanking plate to block EGR I called chip it and they said drill a 3mm hole I see you guys say 6mm, so I know little difference what do you suggest. I'm not running a chip yet as the motor's only done 500km


You could always install the chip and run it at factory tune, till you are ready to turn up the power. This will let you install the plate without holes, without fear of CEL's
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby RHKTriton on Wed Jun 08, 2011 1:15 pm

After all my hunting around, I have come across an EGR soot filter from a German company (not yet checked on price and what sort of heat might be involved). It should be possible to filter the EGR without stopping the inert gas through - hence should meet all ADR requirements.

I'm thinking something along the line of the catch cans with an element you can either replace or clean every so often would be the go.

Putting a hold in the throttle flap is not good, as you might one day need it to be able to choke the engine if you ever have a self fueling situation. However, having a flap bypass that you can control and have the EGR blanked looks feasible.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby helicoptercow on Wed Jun 08, 2011 1:24 pm

interesting development RHKTriton... got a link or something to this little device?? :D

could imagine thought whatever the filter element, would be getting cleaned a fair bit or performance would be taking a hit...

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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Wed Jun 08, 2011 1:54 pm

RHKTriton wrote:After all my hunting around, I have come across an EGR soot filter from a German company (not yet checked on price and what sort of heat might be involved). It should be possible to filter the EGR without stopping the inert gas through - hence should meet all ADR requirements.

I'm thinking something along the line of the catch cans with an element you can either replace or clean every so often would be the go.

Putting a hold in the throttle flap is not good, as you might one day need it to be able to choke the engine if you ever have a self fueling situation. However, having a flap bypass that you can control and have the EGR blanked looks feasible.


Nice in theory. Only problem with that is. Have you ever noticed what position it goes to when the engine is turned off? Fully open!:o
A small hole still prevents overrun anyway.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby borngeek on Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:04 pm

helicoptercow wrote:
could imagine thought whatever the filter element, would be getting cleaned a fair bit or performance would be taking a hit...

If it clogged it would not degrade performance of the vehicle as only EGR will stop as the filter clogged (much like a blanking plate) ;)

Tony wrote:
RHKTriton wrote:
Putting a hold in the throttle flap is not good, as you might one day need it to be able to choke the engine if you ever have a self fueling situation. However, having a flap bypass that you can control and have the EGR blanked looks feasible.


Nice in theory. Only problem with that is. Have you ever noticed what position it goes to when the engine is turned off? Fully open!:o
A small hole still prevents overrun anyway.


The best way to kill the engine if self fuelling / run-on is to block the air intake to starve engine of air. (I carry a thick plastic bag under my seat :lol:

I will be drilling A SPARE flap soon just as a test for the ML on economy and performance gains. (then returning to stock)
but proven to work to eradicate limpies with egr block in MN's. I personally hate the 3-6mm hole idea.
This could also help the EcuTeK guys ;)

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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby helicoptercow on Wed Jun 08, 2011 6:12 pm

yea i realised the error of my ways after i posted it and thought about it a little more, but thanks for clearing it up for everyone else geek :lol:

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