Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Fri Aug 05, 2011 6:05 pm

That'd work well RHK. I wasn't that keen on boring a hole in the throttle valve plate either... Although that would work OK.
The way I did mine is very discreet - certainly passed a dealer service without raising eyebrows (I doubt they'd notice anything much really... :roll: :lol: ). A lot of dealers would be happy if it saved them the hassle of manifold replacements I would have thought.
Although many choose not to do anything regarding carbon build-up and wait to have a manfold change, this approach doesn't completely restore peak airflow in the intake. Unless the head is actually removed and the intake ports properly cleaned out and the intake valve heads are buffed clean, it really is a bit of a compromise.

And yes, it seems to be a never ending story....
The voices in my head may not be real, but they do have some damned good ideas.

If it's feral, it's in peril.

MN turbo lag? What lag??

99% of lawyers give the rest a bad name.
User avatar
Longranger1
Platinum Subscriber
 
Posts: 2209
Joined: Wed May 26, 2010 7:37 pm
Location: Townsville NQ


 

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby RHKTriton on Sat Aug 06, 2011 11:27 am

I just can't get my head around the concept that a manufacturer would put out a product in a form that has an OBVIOUS flaw in its operation on one hand AND then the users are content to accept that they have a gradually deteriorating engine (that in today's environment - good lubricants, metallurgy, computer design & analysis, etc should not occur) and will happily put up with the respective loss of performance and associated higher running costs.

The euro machines are coming out with newer technology, however there must have been ways to scrub out or filter solids from the EGR circuit before it hits the inlet manifold at the time common rail was taken up. I'd be happy to take out a filter and clean it every few thousand ks if it were there. Its not that long ago when engines used to get the head removed for a de-coke and people put up with this as an accepted part of motoring. Now days there are some willing to do oil changes every 5k!

Long and short of it, assuming your not abusing the engine, etc the most that should be required for the first 200k on a modern diesel is filter & lube changes at regular intervals. Important aspect is keeping crap out when doing service work, esp when the lid is off for valve adjustment (you know my view about this).
Don't let the b'strds get you down!!
RHKTriton
Platinum Subscriber
 
Posts: 4324
Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:05 pm
Location: La trobe Valley - Gippsland

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Sat Aug 06, 2011 12:16 pm

It's all of them, I recently had the inlets off a Toyota 1VT-FTV and was coked with only 45k on it. They say after 60k the carbon build up stops them using oil :? Makes a great sealing compound :lol:
User avatar
Tony
Platinum Subscriber
 
Posts: 7022
Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 10:50 am
Location: Central NSW 100kms N/E of Mudgee

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby RHKTriton on Sat Aug 06, 2011 1:10 pm

carbon buildup will stop oil consumption , because engine won't run!
Don't let the b'strds get you down!!
RHKTriton
Platinum Subscriber
 
Posts: 4324
Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2009 10:05 pm
Location: La trobe Valley - Gippsland

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby GLX-R Alex on Sun Aug 14, 2011 7:43 am

Anyone want a blanking plate?
User avatar
GLX-R Alex
 
Posts: 504
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 4:06 pm

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Passage GT on Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:11 pm

how much are they including delivery to the pilbara alex?
for a 3.2
Passage GT
 
Posts: 9
Joined: Sun Apr 10, 2011 12:58 am

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby GLX-R Alex on Sun Aug 14, 2011 2:36 pm

Pm me
User avatar
GLX-R Alex
 
Posts: 504
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 4:06 pm

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby ken_gilchrist on Mon Aug 15, 2011 9:25 pm

GLX-R Alex wrote:Pm me

Pm sent
User avatar
ken_gilchrist
 
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:47 am

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Kegsy on Mon Aug 22, 2011 6:49 pm

I know 'someone' who has recently blanked their MN 2.5, and done the Tony mod as well.

'He' reckons if you haven't done this to your MN your missing out. :lol:

Apparently the engine is way smoother, picks up quicker and seems to pull a little bit harder now. Also that "rough" running you get early in the morning on cold start where its easy to kangaroo it on low throttle first gear... Gone!

For the 30mins it takes to do and the few bucks thrown Alex's way its a damn good bang for buck mod, and the added bonus of keeping things clean.
Triton be gone :cry:
User avatar
Kegsy
Platinum Subscriber
 
Posts: 1761
Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 7:15 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby sierra on Tue Aug 23, 2011 7:27 am

Just had another idea that should fix the same problem of codes after fitting a blanking plate. :idea:

I don't know where you would get such a thing but if you could get a little valve to fit in the MAP tube, that was open to the atmosphere through a one way valve, feeding air into that line?
The result would be no change all the time there is positive pressure from the turbo because the valve would be closed but as soon as it went into any vacuum the valve would open and let in air to keep the pressure in the MAP tube above the manifold and stop a low pressure code.

That might not have the benefits of plumbing in upstream of the EGR throttle body? but if such a valve exists it could be fitted in a couple of minutes.
User avatar
sierra
 
Posts: 1509
Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 11:50 pm

Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Kegsy on Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:00 am

That's pretty much what lr has done.
Triton be gone :cry:
User avatar
Kegsy
Platinum Subscriber
 
Posts: 1761
Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 7:15 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby ken_gilchrist on Thu Aug 25, 2011 4:29 pm

Just got my plate today (thanks Alex)
now were to put it :oops:
is the EGR on the right side as you look in to the engine behind the dip stick? I can't seem to get the photos to look like what I see here.

Cheers
User avatar
ken_gilchrist
 
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:47 am

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Cowboy Dave on Thu Aug 25, 2011 5:35 pm

The Hitchhiker's guide to the the Triton universe and NTN.

A how to on finding your own way - search me.

The two threads I wish people would use more: thing 1 and thing 2.
User avatar
Cowboy Dave
Moderator
 
Posts: 18098
Joined: Tue Dec 29, 2009 9:46 am
Location: Sydney

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby ken_gilchrist on Fri Aug 26, 2011 8:59 am

Thanks, all done. Just biting at the bit to try it out now, but have to wait for the hand brake to get ready so it will be a looooong wait. :lol:
User avatar
ken_gilchrist
 
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:47 am

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby GLX-R Alex on Fri Aug 26, 2011 4:46 pm

Let us know your impression..
User avatar
GLX-R Alex
 
Posts: 504
Joined: Mon Jun 08, 2009 4:06 pm

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby mad992 on Fri Aug 26, 2011 5:12 pm

im impressed with my self made stainless steel 18gauge blanking plate c/w 6mm hole to fool ecu :D
User avatar
mad992
 
Posts: 3072
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 2008 5:32 am
Location: Shittesville

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby ken_gilchrist on Sat Aug 27, 2011 2:31 am

Yeh it's a marked improvement.
When I put the FC-IIs on the other week I noticed that the truck was soooooo doughy out of the hole with the extra wheel wieght, but this has now fixed that and made it even better. I pulled off the road to take a call yesterday and when I was feeding the gas to come back on the traction control light was flicking, I was accually breaking traction :D .Plus I noticed that my computer recalculated my fuel range and it jumped up by 30kms after I hooked the battery back up.

This morning will be the best test when I hook the boat up and see how well she pulls 1.5tone.
I put the plate on the EGR B pipe (going by the diagrams) right up near the head.It was a pain to get in there with lots of dropping nuts and swearing and cursing but got it in there non the less and the stealer wouldn't even know I have been in there.
User avatar
ken_gilchrist
 
Posts: 33
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:47 am

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby veight on Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:23 am

With a another round of ERG Plates now available thanks to "GLX-R Alex" :D I decided to purchase one & Fit it to my MN Triton. :P
Pics below for other members as it took me 34 pages to look through before i decided where to fit it.
I have fitted mine to ERG pipe :arrow: "A" - if this is not advised let me know & I will move it.

Start with being on the passangers side of the car
Click to view larger picture

This shows what we are looking for - ERG pipe "A" & ERG pipe "B"
Click to view larger picture

With the cover removed from ERG pipe "A" - the blanking plate was fitted in between the ERG cooler & the pipe.
I used a small amount of High temp silicone to stick the blank to the original gasket.
Click to view larger picture

And this is the stainless steel Blank we are all talking about
Click to view larger picture

Once fitted you can not see that the blank has been fitted :D
veight
 
Posts: 103
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2010 5:06 pm
Location: Darwin NT

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Kegsy on Sat Aug 27, 2011 10:33 am

Yep, thats where I would put it.

Stops that egr cooler box thingy filling up with crap.
Triton be gone :cry:
User avatar
Kegsy
Platinum Subscriber
 
Posts: 1761
Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2010 7:15 pm
Location: Sydney

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby sierra on Sat Aug 27, 2011 12:23 pm

Just for the record, the original 100kw version of the 2.5 is exactly the same. Which makes sense because the only obvious change to up the power was the bigger turbo with more boost.
I put mine at point B ages ago and took it out recently to check for corrosion, there wasn't any and it went straight back in.
Once the flow is halted nothing much will get in the cooler but point A does make sense as the optimum spot. I wouldn't bother moving it though, it's very marginal. :)
User avatar
sierra
 
Posts: 1509
Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 11:50 pm

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby desblaze on Sat Aug 27, 2011 12:40 pm

Just got an engine check light pop up on the dash the other week. Nearly 70K on the clock of my ML 07 3.2. took it to the stealership and guess what. they need to get the replacement manifold. Just have to wait for the pieces to turn up. Things take their time to get up to Mount Isa. I did get a little bit of surging in the early days but it only occurred a handful of time and went away. Didn't think much till I found this forum.

Was going to put a provent on when I get it back. The question is, should I put a blank cap on with the small hole as well or will the catch can be enough protection?
User avatar
desblaze
 
Posts: 140
Joined: Sat Jun 05, 2010 8:58 pm
Location: Jimboomba QLD

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby sierra on Sat Aug 27, 2011 1:12 pm

desblaze wrote:Was going to put a provent on when I get it back. The question is, should I put a blank cap on with the small hole as well or will the catch can be enough protection?


The Provent 200 is a 'must have' in my book.
I would also think about getting the intercooler cleaned out because after 70k it's got to have a lot of oil in it?
The EGR blank with a 6mm hole in it, as some use, seems a bit of a waste of time? Surely it's better to cure the fault that causes the low pressure code than have reduced carbon in the manifold?
Have a look at the small rubber hose that supplies the pressure to the MAP sensor, it's going to be in a different place when it comes back. If you can source a little one way check valve to fit that hose dia I'm sure it would fix the code.
Just fit a 'T' piece in that line and have the check valve coming off that fitting allowing air in but not out.
When it's under boost it will be closed but when it goes into negative pressure the valve would allow air into the line and stop the low reading that throws the code.
Either that or run the new hose from the 'T' piece to the upstream side of the EGR throttle valve as has been proven to fix the problem.

Something like this would be ideal!
It mustn't be fitted in the line, just fed in via a 'T' connector. Air in but not out. :)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Non-Retur ... 19c850106d

I'm lucky, the 100kw 2.5 doesn't throw a code with the blanking plate fitted.
User avatar
sierra
 
Posts: 1509
Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 11:50 pm

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby snowman on Sat Aug 27, 2011 2:02 pm

sierra wrote:
desblaze wrote:Was going to put a provent on when I get it back. The question is, should I put a blank cap on with the small hole as well or will the catch can be enough protection?


The Provent 200 is a 'must have' in my book.
I would also think about getting the intercooler cleaned out because after 70k it's got to have a lot of oil in it?
The EGR blank with a 6mm hole in it, as some use, seems a bit of a waste of time? Surely it's better to cure the fault that causes the low pressure code than have reduced carbon in the manifold?
Have a look at the small rubber hose that supplies the pressure to the MAP sensor, it's going to be in a different place when it comes back. If you can source a little one way check valve to fit that hose dia I'm sure it would fix the code.
Just fit a 'T' piece in that line and have the check valve coming off that fitting allowing air in but not out.
When it's under boost it will be closed but when it goes into negative pressure the valve would allow air into the line and stop the low reading that throws the code.
Either that or run the new hose from the 'T' piece to the upstream side of the EGR throttle valve as has been proven to fix the problem.

Something like this would be ideal!
It mustn't be fitted in the line, just fed in via a 'T' connector. Air in but not out. :)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Non-Retur ... 19c850106d

I'm lucky, the 100kw 2.5 doesn't throw a code with the blanking plate fitted.


has anyone without a provent or catch can actually popped off the bottom I/C hose and stuck there finger inside to see if this is happening? surely if it was the oil would all end up at the bottom of the I/C :?
This car is like a bad drug habit. It is taking all my money and time, my family are concerned, but new mods just feel sooooooo good.
User avatar
snowman
Platinum Subscriber
 
Posts: 12031
Joined: Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:59 pm
Location: Toongabbie, NSW

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby sierra on Sat Aug 27, 2011 2:27 pm

snowman wrote:has anyone without a provent or catch can actually popped off the bottom I/C hose and stuck there finger inside to see if this is happening? surely if it was the oil would all end up at the bottom of the I/C :?


There have been a couple of posts where people have fitted larger intercoolers and commented on how much oil was in the old ones. It doesn't all get trapped in there because lots goes through as vapour after being heated up in the compressor, especially when the intercooler heats up and can't condense it out so well.
It must affect the flow after a while?
The stuff that comes out of the catch can is very thin on mine. I found that out the hard way when i fitted the new super dooper drain tap and got it all over my shirt. Stinks too! :evil:
User avatar
sierra
 
Posts: 1509
Joined: Sat May 16, 2009 11:50 pm

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby coxy47 on Sat Aug 27, 2011 2:46 pm

Ok guys so there have been various methods posted about avoiding a CEL from an underboost code and the truck going into limp mode.

One method was to disconnect the throttle valve to ensure that there was never a vacuum in the manifold. The downsides of this being that it gives an engine light on startup and the shutdown is really rough.

Ive currently fixed this by putting a normally closed relay inline with the throttle valve servo. This is triggered once the accessory circuit is on and it creates an open circuit hence no power to the throttle. As long as you turn the key straight to the off position the car shuts down normally. So far it hasnt given me an engine light on startup :? not sure why, as i thought it would but im not complaining. This also allows a fully blanked plate to be run without causing a limp mode.

Ill post up how it goes after ive driven it a bit longer and see what happens.

*I cant take credit for this as its based of a post from RHK about 20 pages ago*

Cheers
Chris
User avatar
coxy47
 
Posts: 1020
Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2011 1:59 pm
Location: Brisbane Northside, Qld

PreviousNext

Return to Tips & Tricks

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest