Closing the EGR Valve *check first post for links*

Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby NTBB on Wed Aug 31, 2011 5:45 pm

I sort of hope i'm wrong chicky because if i'm right I will be..... :oops: and also looking for a new T/B butterfly.... :roll:
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby coxy47 on Wed Aug 31, 2011 6:46 pm

I think you may be on the right track at stopping the code since as far as im aware the problem has mainly been with an underboost code being caused by the vacuum.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby sierra on Wed Aug 31, 2011 8:28 pm

NTBB wrote:Would a 1 way check valve between the port and sensor work (+pressure would read -pressure would read 0).. :?:


If you put it in line it would just pump up the sensor side to max boost pressure and hold it there.
You could fit a 'T' piece into that hose and then fit the check valve in that so it lets in air to stop any negative readings but holds the boost reading.
I made several posts on the idea about 10 days ago in this thread with a source of cheap check valves.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Non-Retur ... 19c850106d
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby srb on Wed Aug 31, 2011 9:42 pm

Yeah and what about longrangers mod with T-ing across to the intercooler transfer pipe? He reckons it works great and has the advantage of more torque down low. Pete was even kind enough to send me the stealth instruction on how he did the install which i will be doing on the weekend. And thanks to Alex i now have my little blank plate ready to go. You guy's are so good nutting this mess out, i dont need even need to think. ;) I reckon Mitsubishi should to put you on the pay roll. :D
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby coxy47 on Thu Sep 01, 2011 6:07 am

sierra wrote: If you put it in line it would just pump up the sensor side to max boost pressure and hold it there.
You could fit a 'T' piece into that hose and then fit the check valve in that so it lets in air to stop any negative readings but holds the boost reading.
I made several posts on the idea about 10 days ago in this thread with a source of cheap check valves.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Non-Retur ... 19c850106d


Thats a much simpler and better solution then my idea of using shuttle valve in the line so i may give this a go when i get a chance. Ive somewhat given up on the electrical solution now :D
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby sierra on Thu Sep 01, 2011 7:34 am

Longrangers mod is excellent and, as you say, gives more torque low down.
That must be from the higher pressure being fed into the MAP sensor while the butterfly is partially closed, giving more fuel.

The other mod[check valve] should only stop the codes, with perhaps a tiny improvement in performance by comparison but it's cheap $5? and easy to fit 2min?

Although it will only flow small amounts of air for very short periods, once it proves it fixes the problem[hopefully] I would either fit a tiny air filter next to the check valve or run an extension to take filtered air from upstream of the turbo.

Good fun working through these problems. :D

Edit. If the check valve sticks open it would bleed off the boost reading to the sensor and cut the fuel down and the power.
There are better quality check valves and although the fish tank cheapies might be perfect I would at least keep a spare in the glovebox just in case. Easily swapped with no tools needed.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby coxy47 on Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:40 am

Ok with regards to the electrical method.

Your best off creating an open circuit across the white wire in the throttle body plug. With regards to using a relay it does work but i wouldnt recommend it. It gives a CEL on startup and the shutdown is better then with the throttle completely disconnected but worse then with it working as it should. If you can get the relay to trigger more quickly it would work well, maybe using a SSR or triggering off the ignition circuit?? but at the moment im not too keen on trying that. You would be able to avoid the CEL by incorporating a time delay into the circuit which would be simple.

So from all of this im just running a switch to disable to throttle when driving at highway speeds and it suits my purposes for the moment.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Sat Sep 03, 2011 12:49 am

NTBB wrote:Would a 1 way check valve between the port and sensor work (+pressure would read -pressure would read 0).. :?:



How do you plan to bleed the positive pressure back from the MAP sensor once off boost? Could be interesting if the valve was good enough to hold around 18psi or so. :lol: Be like a blocked MAP port. :roll: Your close though. :D
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby NTBB on Sat Sep 03, 2011 8:47 am

come on tony throw a dog a bone.... :lol:
I havn't put much thought in to this due to the fact the T/B mod is working well.
Maybe a loop system... T piece one way valve t piece.... :?:
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby srb on Sat Sep 03, 2011 10:22 am

Hay i blanked up my EGR today and put a T-peice in the map line with the one way valve idea and so far it works great. I can't say i notice much of a difference in performance but at least i will never have carbon build up. ;)
I will drive around for a week and see how it goes before i do Longrangers mod, it will be interesting to see what sort of difference that one makes.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby headshok on Thu Nov 10, 2011 5:59 am

hi guys

just closed off my EGR valve today

my guy suggested i close off the valve just before the intake and vent out my blow by valve to the atmosphere

Click to view larger picture

i have a pipt plugged in that vents below the truck

Click to view larger picture

made a gasket

Click to view larger pictureClick to view larger picture

there was a small incident.

after blanking it out, there was a whining sound when i drove.

i tot it was the valve and we blanked it off where you guys do ( just after the cooler thingy)

Click to view larger picture

ironically, that was not hte cause of the sound and it ended up being the blow by valve.

But anyway, the whining sound isnt that loud plus my music is always up full when i'm driving, doesmt matter to me :)

Love my ride now.

throttle respsonse is so much tighter now. I'm running the monster industries piggy back and my truck is a beast :) heheh

Cheers!
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby biggibbo on Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:41 am

Here's on to throw a cat amongst the pidgeons.

I have had my EGR blanked since day 1. Recently I have been getting surging, and since an recent ECU reflash it has been down on power using more fuel, and really sluggish. It has been throwing the occasional CEL but is not throwing any codes??

It is in for a clutch repair (thrust bearing) and the service dude rand me this morn to let me know the manifold is clogged with carbon and needs replacing/cleaning.

It is a 2010 MN with about 70,000km on the clock.

What I dont get is how it has carbon build up when the EGR has been blocked except for when I take it in for a service (couple of hundred KM at best) - Any thoughts??

I didn't want to tell the service dude that it has been blanked off, but did question if he was sure it was carbon build up, and he said they have taken the manifold off and it definately clogged. They are checking on parts availability and will get back to me with a new ETA.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby helicoptercow on Thu Nov 10, 2011 7:08 am

I dont know much mechenically, but obviously there's still moisture so i'd be looking at a catch can for starters.

I recently had my manifold swapped for a cleaned one and Chase said its not the worst he's seen after 60,000kms but the difference was that the build up it had was dry, and that i would put down to the catch can that was installed at 50,000kms.... still no explaination on all the moisture i was collecting in the can thought.

food for thought...

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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:36 am

biggibbo wrote:Here's on to throw a cat amongst the pidgeons.

I have had my EGR blanked since day 1. Recently I have been getting surging, and since an recent ECU reflash it has been down on power using more fuel, and really sluggish. It has been throwing the occasional CEL but is not throwing any codes??

It is in for a clutch repair (thrust bearing) and the service dude rand me this morn to let me know the manifold is clogged with carbon and needs replacing/cleaning.

It is a 2010 MN with about 70,000km on the clock.

What I dont get is how it has carbon build up when the EGR has been blocked except for when I take it in for a service (couple of hundred KM at best) - Any thoughts??

I didn't want to tell the service dude that it has been blanked off, but did question if he was sure it was carbon build up, and he said they have taken the manifold off and it definately clogged. They are checking on parts availability and will get back to me with a new ETA.



Has it been blanked in the right place? I stuck a borescope down into the intake manifold of my MN and it is clean and as new.

Something not right here...
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Re: Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby coxy47 on Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:05 am

biggibbo wrote:Here's on to throw a cat amongst the pidgeons.

I have had my EGR blanked since day 1. Recently I have been getting surging, and since an recent ECU reflash it has been down on power using more fuel, and really sluggish. It has been throwing the occasional CEL but is not throwing any codes??

It is in for a clutch repair (thrust bearing) and the service dude rand me this morn to let me know the manifold is clogged with carbon and needs replacing/cleaning.

It is a 2010 MN with about 70,000km on the clock.

What I dont get is how it has carbon build up when the EGR has been blocked except for when I take it in for a service (couple of hundred KM at best) - Any thoughts??

I didn't want to tell the service dude that it has been blanked off, but did question if he was sure it was carbon build up, and he said they have taken the manifold off and it definately clogged. They are checking on parts availability and will get back to me with a new ETA.


I can't see how its possible if the egr is properly banked off. Unless its not carbon but some other form of crap mixing with the oil from the pcv. Though assuming the airfilter is working i dent understand that either.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Homer on Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:25 am

biggibbo wrote:Here's on to throw a cat amongst the pidgeons.

I have had my EGR blanked since day 1. Recently I have been getting surging, and since an recent ECU reflash it has been down on power using more fuel, and really sluggish. It has been throwing the occasional CEL but is not throwing any codes??

It is in for a clutch repair (thrust bearing) and the service dude rand me this morn to let me know the manifold is clogged with carbon and needs replacing/cleaning.

It is a 2010 MN with about 70,000km on the clock.

What I dont get is how it has carbon build up when the EGR has been blocked except for when I take it in for a service (couple of hundred KM at best) - Any thoughts??

I didn't want to tell the service dude that it has been blanked off, but did question if he was sure it was carbon build up, and he said they have taken the manifold off and it definately clogged. They are checking on parts availability and will get back to me with a new ETA.


My guess is you don't have a catch can? Could be the culprit?
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:51 pm

If it was only oil it wouldn't gunk up the manifold on its own. The catch can only really comes into play if the egr isn't blanked.

Interesting though. I would wonder if they really did have a look. Given the milage they may have assumed it would be gunked up - without actually checking.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby coxy47 on Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:53 pm

To me that sounds more likely then anything else.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Homer on Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:46 pm

It will be interesting to see. I would always do the catch can myself but could just be they are assuming due to the symptoms.

Either way it would be good to ask for a photo or something to know for sure...
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby MRTbrett on Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:24 pm

interesting to read this continuing thread on EGR solutions, please remember you can TUNE the EGR via the ECU for optimal results of low soot, power and fuel economy
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby gregned on Thu Nov 10, 2011 9:34 pm

Hey Brett
Is Ecutec able to gag the egr valve completely?
Any improvements to the re written tune to suit the new 2.5MN reflash?
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Tony on Fri Nov 11, 2011 8:45 am

Who needs tunes etc.... :lol:

By pass and bleed.jpg


I ran this set up for over 10k with full EGR blank. Now on a mates PB challenger with an after market chip (No map mod) Makes a nice 25psi and no codes. 8-)

No need for the LR bypass or hole in the TB, but if in place, will dump more fuel in just off idle or trailing throttle.

Bit fiddly to set up as a balancing act between the bleed valve and restriction.

Damn, giving away all my secrets.. :lol:

Obviously if running this on a petrol engine, you would need a one way valve in the equation as I have on my supercharged Rangie.

The above with a SB drives quite nicely. ;)
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Fri Nov 11, 2011 1:57 pm

Interesting Tony. Take away the 4-way tee, bleed valve and restrictor and that is exactly what I have done.

What is the purpose of the restrictor? I can understand the bleed valve reducing read boost values at the MAP sensor. Is the bleed valve a one way job to stop crud working its way back up it? Line restrictors give a smoother signal maybe (the reason why mechanical boost guages rattle without one fitted).

I am working on a full exhaust gas substitution set-up now. It will involve a 3/4" tail grafted onto the bend of the IC steel connect pipe. This will feed directly into the exhaust gas cooler.

Mainly want to do this to take out any throttling losses caused by the throttle flap valve, without having the harsh shutdown caused by a hole in, or removal of, the throttle valve plate. In essence, the egr works exactly as intended but without exhaust gas, only clean intake air. :lol: It just saves a lot of farting around to get the best efficiency.

These mods are for offroad use only. ;)

MRT Brett reckons it can be programmed out and I don't doubt this. But for legal reasons it will remain in play I would say.

And yes, the Sprintbooster does work a treat with my mod.

Edit: Been running the mod for 12000km's now, all good with no CEL's or limpies from the P0299 underboost code.
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby biggibbo on Fri Nov 11, 2011 4:35 pm

Well I got the truck back, as suspected it wasnt carbon build up, however it was really oily in there.

Keeps throwing code p0299 which they have diagnosed as a faulty MAP sensor. Now waiting on parts as there are none in Sydney. Weird its only happened since the service and without the chip and blank. Would have expected it the other way round? Any thoughts?
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Re: Closing the EGR Valve

Postby Longranger1 on Fri Nov 11, 2011 6:13 pm

Looks like you'll be getting a Provent soon biggibbo. :lol:
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