Carbon Build Up, EGR Blank, Catch Can Information

[timbo0279]

Hi guys,
Engine light was still on, went down to chip it WA to get an OBD scanner, paid for it and got back in the car to go home and the engine light went out on its own...... Heh heh heh funny how things work out some times..
Having said that the OBD scanner is awesome and I cleared all of the codes... Only 1 present which was map sensor p01060 or something like that..
I have decided I am going to do the long ranger mod mk 2, I.e. Plumbing intercooler boost to the egr system via a 3/4 hose... I am interested to know if anyone has done this mod to a 3.2??
Tony's mod and pics are from the newer 2.5 and it appears to be a little easier on the 2.5 with the egr cooler on the inlet side of the engine...
My thoughts are to make up a new intake pipe from the intercooler stub that pokes through the radiator panel to the throttle body, make it out of alloy and weld a ferule or barb to the new pipe to connect the 3/4 hose to and run it to the egr valve. The egr valve has a cast iron connector that has the stainless egr pipe connected to it, I was just going to drill and tap a 90 deb elbow into this casting and connect up the hoses... Should be pretty much the same thing...
Any thoughts??

[Tritium]

How easy is it to remove the butterfly plate from the shaft on the throttle body?
Would like to consider trying an undersize one instead of drilling a hole. Stainless would probably be ok for that as being undersize the heat expansion shouldn't be enough for it to stick. If required the oem plate can be reinstated if needed.

[NowForThe5th]

Not recommended. You can lose the calibration for the TPS.

[MilkmanDan]

I don't see a problem doing a swap of the plate provided the surface area you are removing is same as what would be if a hole was drilled. ECU reads airflow

[Cowboy Dave]

I just don't see it as worth the effort. There are easier ways around the problem.

[Steve-o]

Hi Guys,

Is there a different method of stopping CEL's and limp modes on an EGR Blanked ML 3.2, that isn't as involved as the longranger mod and doesn't involve drilling the throttle body plate?

Steve

[macca002]

Hi Guys,

Is there a different method of stopping CEL's and limp modes on an EGR Blanked ML 3.2, that isn't as involved as the longranger mod and doesn't involve drilling the throttle body plate?

Steve

10mm hole in the middle of the blank. Obviously doesn't blank off the EGR but does cut down the amount of carbon getting through.

Otherwise can clear the error codes with scanguage or Bluetooth OBDII when they happen.

[Cowboy Dave]

I thought people had success with T'ing a piece into the map tube with a one way filter thing?

There's also an electrical solution which means you don't even need the plate, but that's available to platinum members only at the moment as the seller wouldn't be able to keep up with demand otherwise.

[Steve-o]

I thought people had success with T'ing a piece into the map tube with a one way filter thing?

There's also an electrical solution which means you don't even need the plate, but that's available to platinum members only at the moment as the seller wouldn't be able to keep up with demand otherwise.

Cheers Dave,
I'm heading for a trip to Noosa/Fraser coast in the triton, when I get back I'll get onto the platinum section and do the electrical solution. I think after this trip the limp modes will have given me the shits.

[kizzareena]

Hey guys, kinda new to the forum so please be gentle!!

I was talking to my mechanic about how to go about cleaning the manifold. I was going to take it apart and clean it out by hand. He suggested hooking up this system they use, i think he called it EG Systems, it blows some fuel/cleaner through the inlet and it cleans out all the carbon build up threw out the engine and out the exhaust. He recns he does it all the time with newer model diesels. He says rodaoes are the worst for carbon build up (this makes me feel great about owning a triton ) wants to charge me $200 for it.

$200 every now and then sounds great to me for the peace of mind!

Kizza

[hvac guy]

I think its called seafoam

[Longranger1]

Not terribly effective but maybe better than nothing. Engines ingest a gutful of crap using those cleaning systems. Better to remove the manifold and do it properly.

[macca002]

I wouldn't be putting seafoam into a common rail. Maybe a $1000 junker

[MilkmanDan]

That seafoam or the Subaru upper engine cleaner is good stuff. As mentioned though pulling it out will be most effective

[Cowboy Dave]

How many kms are on it? When these engines get buildup there's a shiteload of it. The idea of that going through would worry me. Are you still in warranty?

[salt36]

I don't think I would be trying to force that amount of carbon through the valves, some would stick on the valve or seat for sure.

Could make the engine run rough for weeks til cleared.

[kizzareena]

just clocked 160,000km and they guys that serviced it brought the carbon to my attention. I know the previous owner well and he had the manifold replaced under warranty way back and they put in the new one with the re located sensor. So it has had this build up in the past (a long time ago now) so im thinking its going to be a on going maintenance things every so often.

She is low on power at the moment so im guessing this is why

[kizzareena]

Am I going to do any damage if I drive it around a week or so like this? I have her booked in at TJM on Friday for a T15 bar to go on and at Ultimate on Monday for a lift kit so funds are going to be lacking and I aint gona be able to pull it apart to clean myself

[Cowboy Dave]

Yeah mate she'll be right - right up to when it codes and stops. But I reckon you'll be fine.

[Steve-o]

Well the trip to Inskip/Noosa/Kenilworth I think I had about 10 times I had to pull over, turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds restart and go again gave me the shits.

First thing this morning I've paid for a subscription! How long do I wait now?

[Cowboy Dave]

Wait is over, you seem to be platinum now

[koshari]

its proly worthwhile to link wright1275s (kudos to him from me) post where he uses a resistor in the MAF sensor cct,
viewtopic.php?f=23&t=4813&p=326272#p326272

I placed a 6k8 resistor in the ground return cable, (black/blue one on the 1st of the 5 pins on the MAF connector) add to the MAFs thermistor resistance so it always reads below 0 degrees and therefore the EGR never gets a command to open.

the resistor needs to be in place to ensure P0112 or P0113 CELs dont generate.

As the EGR will never open you dont even need the blank in place.

great solution for the ML where blanks can throw limpys.

It also saves the EGR drive gear from wearing out (costly) from continuousness operating and causing EGR feedback CELs (P2413).

[jappi]

Hi,

I've trawled through the various links and discussions and hoping you guys can clarify something for me please:

1. Does this issue affect the MN 2.5 engine? I'm having issues and the Mitsubishi tech on the Gold Coast is trying to tell me it doesn't. Wasn't sure if the redesigns had negated the issue on this model.

2. What do you actually experience with a "surge". Mine is more of a miss / stutter. Same thing?

Thanks in advance.

[Hondon]

yes the 2.5 suffers from this
and the surge symptoms can vary a bit..but basically the car does exactly that "surges" some at cruising speed some at low speed on light throttle ...but it varies a lot and is not necessarily from carbon build up ...particularly If you have low ish ks on it..

[AnOldFart]

Hi,

I've trawled through the various links and discussions and hoping you guys can clarify something for me please:

1. Does this issue affect the MN 2.5 engine? I'm having issues and the Mitsubishi tech on the Gold Coast is trying to tell me it doesn't. Wasn't sure if the redesigns had negated the issue on this model.

2. What do you actually experience with a "surge". Mine is more of a miss / stutter. Same thing?

Thanks in advance.

Hi Jappi, I was having "miss/stutter" problems with my 2010 MN Ute. Shortly after setting off on a cold motor it would miss/stutter once or twice as I was driving along, typically on a light throttle position. (a.k.a. the Fun-GO-Pedal ) The symptoms disappeared though once the donk warmed up. Anyway, I read another post about similar issues being caused by a dirty MAF sensor so bought myself a spray can of "CRC MAF Cleaner" for $25 from SoupyCheep and gave mine a good squirt of it and as if by magic, all of my cold donk's 'miss/stutter' problems disappeared as if 'in a puff of smoke and fairy dust'
Anyway, it might be worth a try for you too. Even if it doesn't prove to be the exact cause of your own issue this time, the can of MAF Cleaner wont go to waste because it's 'good maintenance practice' to give your MAF sensor a spray clean every time you replace the air filter anyway. PS: Just don't smoke while using the MAF spray or inhale the stuff either unless you've got a death wish.
PPS: Your Gold Coast Mitsui tech is tellin you sweet little 'porkie pies' because the MN 2.5 donks are still affected by exactly the same EGR induced carbon build up problems. It's just that with the re-positioned MAP sensor port on their later version re-designed inlet manifolds they are not as prone, to oily carbon 'gunga' (that's a technical term ) build up, clogging/blocking their MAP ports, and hence, suffering from consequential 'limp modes' as a result of those blocked ports, as the earlier Triton models were, before Mitsui re-designed their inlet manifolds. I would strongly suggest that you have another -close look- at Koshari's post, directly before your own, above, if you want to do something 'effective' about stopping the EGR induced carbon build up from occuring in your own MN 2.5 engine.