Oils aint Oils

[mIwoo]

if you just chuck in any oil what can happen is the oils wont mix properly and will create a sludge.. this can actually be seriously a lot more detrimental to your engine than running slightly low. it wont take long to drop the oil out of it and put new oil in it. seriously. if it was me, if it cost me an hours sleep... i'd change it, but thats me.

[tritonmal]

With u on this one mlwoo... And I do the filter too

[frederik77]

ooooh dear.. ha ha thanks for the insight. i ended up askin a mechanic and he said it will be fine, put in 15-40 diesel oil of some sort.. i have heard though that it is not good to mix oils. im in for a service in 2 weeks so hopefully she wont be to bad. otherwise ill be back at the mechanics askin for some cooooiiiinnn.

[tradieb]

Picked myself up 20L of Delo 400 today (15w40) Keen to see how she goes. From what I've read, the patrol guys love it.

[powies]

purchased this nulon oil on the weekend as I couldn't get the 5w-30w euro engine oil http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Full_S ... ngine_Oil/

Is it okay to use in my Triton 2013 MN 4x4?

Thanks

[NowForThe5th]

That oil does meet the minimum specifications but it is primarily an oil for petrol engines. It will work fine, but this one would be better:

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Diesel_Engine_Oils/15W-40_High_Protection_Diesel_Formula_Engine_Oil/

One has to really question whether using a synthetic in a diesel, where oil changes are at 7500km is really worth it. No question the synthetics are better but when you're dumping them so quick, they are pretty expensive when a premium mineral oil can be a lot cheaper and do the same job.

[brodical]

Thought we were meant to run a 5 w oil ?..

[GLRkenny]

One has to really question whether using a synthetic in a diesel, where oil changes are at 7500km is really worth it. No question the synthetics are better but when you're dumping them so quick, they are pretty expensive when a premium mineral oil can be a lot cheaper and do the same job.

I run full synthetic due to it being a low SAPS (sulphated ash) oil, much better for diesels, it is what must be used in cars with diesel particulate filters to prevent the filter from getting blocked

[mattz]

Nulon also do 5w-30 in a fully synthetic.......it also comes in a 10 litre.
That's what I've been using for a while now.

[NowForThe5th]

Thought we were meant to run a 5 w oil ?..

Grade depends on ambient temperatures.

I run full synthetic due to it being a low SAPS (sulphated ash) oil, much better for diesels, it is what must be used in cars with diesel particulate filters to prevent the filter from getting blocked

No DPF. Was one in NS Pajero but dropped in NT.

[Cowboy Dave]

No 15W is fine. Also depends on your climate as to which one you use when you look in your manual. I run a valvoline full synthetic in mine. Yes it's pricey and yes I dump it every 7,500kms but I like to treat the Triton as well as I possibly can in the hope she will look after me in return. So far, mostly so good.

[brodical]

Dunno how much truth is in it but a bloke told me that while the engine is new /newish ya should use 5w but after 100 k or so once the engine ain't as tight as it once was then the 15 w is fine...but meh I've use hpr 5 since I've had it..

[GLRkenny]

Thought we were meant to run a 5 w oil ?..

Grade depends on ambient temperatures.

I run full synthetic due to it being a low SAPS (sulphated ash) oil, much better for diesels, it is what must be used in cars with diesel particulate filters to prevent the filter from getting blocked

No DPF. Was one in NS Pajero but dropped in NT.

I realise this mate, my point is that if low saps oil is good for keeping rubbish out of DPFs then it must go some way to helping keep exhaust(cat conv) and in turn manifold (via EGR) cleaner

[brodical]

Mmm makes sense Kenny..

[NowForThe5th]

I may be wrong but my understanding is that the low sulphur content has more to do with reducing the formation of H2SO4 that comes out the exhaust and contributes to the acidity in smog, i.e. acid rain. I dare say that less would help the DPF too - probably by not attacking it and wouldn't do the cat convertor any harm either. I'm not sure it would make a lot of difference in the manifold via EGR.

[powies]

I bought the nulon oil I listed earlier as I didn't know if my vehicle had a DPF. I've since rung MM and they told me that as mine is a manual (my2013) no DPF but the auto has one. Is this right?

Now I know I don't have a DPF I might take it back and get something else, still fully synthetic but lighter weight for sure.

[Cowboy Dave]

Pretty sure none have a DPF mate, unless they've made a sudden change in 2013. Hard to see why they'd only do it for autos though?

[RHKTriton]

Did you notice any difference in noise going 5-30 Mattz? I'm thinking of trying that next oil change.

CD..you must be loaded to be able to "piss" oil away like that.

The Euro engines are getting well over 30k out of those oils, so unless you're driving through rivers every week and desert sand storms regularly - waste of money.

[Kegsy]

Just because they push 30k kms doesn't mean its best for your engine.

Get an oil test done by cms / kowa or oil test for about 30bucks. See for yourself.

[biggibbo]

Just because they push 30k kms doesn't mean its best for your engine.

Get an oil test done by cms / kowa or oil test for about 30bucks. See for yourself.

I'm with you. I change every 7500. Even then the oil still fails the old "stain the fingers" test.

[Cowboy Dave]

Not loaded any more - too much oil pissed up against the wall. Not to mention all the mods that this place has influenced me to make.

[Calblitzen]

I agree with Kegsy have your oil checked. The oil is designed to remove the soot.i believe nothing wrong with regular oil changes.

[RHKTriton]

You're right CD...if I had the coin....bullbar, winch, visit to Ultimate, Chips and man sized rubber would go straight to the head of the queue.

Sorry but at 7500km with normal use & the latest spec.oils, you're wasting your money. Those sort of changes are "old hat" for new engines. I've had two diesels and both changed at specified intervals and both getting to around 200k and never missed a beat. (and they had their EGRs intact).

With EGR blanked my oil is still see-through up to around 4 to 5k. When I do my changes I make sure as muck of the old stuff is drained as physically possible. Dealers on the other hand will let it run out until it stops running solid and then proceed to over or under fill (don't take time to accurately measure fill) and then you have to trust that the filters are actually replaced!

If the drain is done quickly, you could still have up to a litre of old oil in the engine.

[scalvert]

No 15W is fine. Also depends on your climate as to which one you use when you look in your manual. I run a valvoline full synthetic in mine. Yes it's pricey and yes I dump it every 7,500kms but I like to treat the Triton as well as I possibly can in the hope she will look after me in return. So far, mostly so good.

Which valvoline are you using mate? I dumped the oil out at 1000km, and i've been using Valvoline MST 5w30 with Nippon Max oil filters. It may be overkill but its had oil and filter changes at 1000km and 6000km, as I usually do it every 5000.

[GLRkenny]

and then you have to trust that the filters are actually replaced!

Mate if you don't trust them don't go there, simple.
I'm sure they don't want to put up with people that don't trust them, I know I hate it, if you can do better, do it