Oil Matters (Merged with What Engine Oil)

Discussion on servicing, engine oils, gearbox oils, diff oils etc

Re: Oil Matters

Postby Homer on Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:33 am

I am thinking about running Mobil 1 in my 3.5 petrol.

Does anyone know if there is a problem with this - besides price - or if it meets Mits specs??

Appreciate any help.
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby Adz on Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:58 am

So who out of us posting/posted in this thread have petrol motors, apart from Homer & I? I would love to know what oil the petrol owners are running...not to hijack the thread but just want to make sure Im putting the right fat in the engine! :D
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby Adz on Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:06 am

Found this on the Mobil Australia site... http://www.exxonmobil.com/Australia-Eng ... ducts.aspx

MITSUBISHI (Also see FUSO) Triton ML Series (4x4), 3.5 Litre 6G74 V6 Eng. (2006-2009)

Crankcase
MOBIL 1 0W-40 or
MOBIL SUPER 3000 X2 5W-40 or
MOBIL FORMULA X2 5W-40 or
MOBIL SUPER 2000 X2 10W-40 or
MOBIL FORMULA S2 10W-40 or
MOBIL 1 5W-30 or MOBIL SUPER 1000 X2 15W-40
MOBIL SUPER 1000 20W-50 or
MOBIL 1 5W-50
Service Refill Capacity: 4.6* Litres

Manual Transmission
MOBILUBE XHP 75W-90
Service Refill Capacity: 3.4 Litres

Automatic Transmission
Refer to Dealer
Service Refill Capacity: 9.7 Litres (See Note 13)

Differential
MOBIL 1 SYN GEAR LUBE LS 75W-90 or MOBILUBE LS 85W-90
Service Refill Capacity: 3.2 Litres (See Note 15)

Power Steering
MOBIL MULTIPURPOSE ATF
Service Refill Capacity: 1.0 Litres

4WD Transfer
MOBILUBE XHP 75W-90
Service Refill Capacity: 2.5 Litres

4WD Differential
MOBIL DELVAC SYNTHETIC GEAR OIL 75W-90 or MOBILUBE HD 80W-90
Service Refill Capacity: 1.2 Litres

NOTES
* Includes Oil Filter
13 Dry fill capacity shown, fill only to full mark.
15 Rear differential.
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby Davoxt on Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:28 pm

Been using Caltex Havoline Fully Synthetic 5w40, easy start up when cold and cheap for a synthetic.
Changing synthetic oil every 7500km instead of 5000km 15w40 mineral base oil works out about the same price.
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby mad992 on Sat Mar 07, 2009 10:56 am

Davoxt wrote:Been using Caltex Havoline Fully Synthetic 5w40, easy start up when cold and cheap for a synthetic.
Changing synthetic oil every 7500km instead of 5000km 15w40 mineral base oil works out about the same price.

you say cheap for a synthetic,i was quoted $180.00 for 20ltr drum is that cheap :? how much you paying...ive heard a rumour that castrol seems to be the better synthetic lubricant and same price as havoline 8-)
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby Racer on Sat Mar 07, 2009 11:28 am

Penrite HPR15 Diesel is $69 for 10 litres. Semi Synthetic Blend, a good quality oil...
09 ML GLX-R 3.2
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby lfunkqe on Sat Mar 07, 2009 4:30 pm

went in to mits parts at dealership today and was quoted almst $50 for oil filter. So i told him i knew of a bloke who is getting for $33 ea for 6 and suddenly they were reduced to $34!ea 6 at a time ......thanks greedy, love this forum!! :D :D
by the way i'm running valvoline super diesel 15w40
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby NowForThe5th on Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:37 pm

These engines are typical high revving OHC Japanese style. While the recommendations include a 20W-50 oil, I've found that the benefit of a heavier oil is that it will stay in the top end and so starts aren't heart in mouth as you listen to all that expensive metal moving against itself with little lubrication until the oil pressure comes up. The downside is that these engines like to rev and a heavier oil really slows them down. Try it - 20W-50 knocks at least 500rpm off maximum revs.

So, a 15W-40 or 10W-40 is the order of the day to get the best performance and good old mineral oil base is fine, so long as you change the oil at the recommended intervals or more often. While there is no doubt that full and semi synthetics offer better stability at extreme levels, few of us are racing our Tritons at Bathurst or running Boeing jet turbines under the bonnet and therefore simply don't need the extra performance capacities that the synthetics offer. At everyday use levels the synthetics offer no real benefit at all and are significantly more expensive.

Brand? I like Valvoline because they developed a long chain polymer which, because of its' length offers better cushioning between surfaces and quietens engines down without affecting performance as with higher viscosity oils. Any good quality brand would do - just keep changing it.
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby mad992 on Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:20 am

now for the 5th.........your a bloody legend.....thank you ,,,,,,,, so u think that valvoline 10w-40 mineral base oil is fine in these trucks :|
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby King Triton on Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:17 am

Most of your oils nowadys are designed to clean the engine as they are pumped around as well as retain all of build up within the oil itself so when you do an oil change all of the build up comes out in the oil. This why oils may seem to get dark and dirty quickly in new cars as they are doing there job of cleaning the engine it does not mean that the oil you are using is shit.
You could actually look at it a different way. The darker/dirtier the oil is when you do your oils change the better it is for your engine. If you change your oil after 10,000km and it is as clean as the day it went in well your oils is not doing its job especially if you own a diesel.
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby mad992 on Sun Mar 08, 2009 5:02 pm

king triton,,,,thankx for your informed opinion.....but what grade and brand oil r u using brother 8-)
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby NowForThe5th on Sun Mar 08, 2009 6:43 pm

Well said, KT. The only other factor is the API standard which the oil meets. This is indicated by a two letter code which for petrol engines starts with "S", i.e. SE, SF, SG etc. and for diesels CC, CD etc. For the Triton petrol engines the API standard needs to be SG or better, for diesels CD or better.
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby scubapro on Mon Mar 09, 2009 6:32 am

Sapient it is HPR 0-40
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby mad992 on Sun Mar 15, 2009 6:00 am

are any guys using oil additive, like slick 50 or nulon with like p.t.f.e. 2 make your oil better
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby NowForThe5th on Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:40 am

Be careful using additives mad992, by changing the specification of the oil you can void your warranty. It's also expensive. Better just to use a good quality oil and change it often. As KT says above, modern oils are designed to hold particulate contaminants and chemical by-products within the oil so they can be removed from your engine when draining.
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Re: Oil Matters

Postby mad992 on Sun Mar 15, 2009 11:23 am

cheers n4the5th i wont b using oil additive cause i dont believe in it u and kt have set it straight with da facts on oil,,,,so there is no substitute for nice fresh oil :lol: cheers mate
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What Engine Oil

Postby brum on Mon Mar 30, 2009 4:58 pm

Hi Folks,
Have just bought a Triton GLXR 3.2 diesel, and was wondering what engine oil most people use. Or any advice of what not to use. At the moment thinking of using Penrite HPR 15 Diesel, is anybody using this. Woulds appreciate any feedback you can give.
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Re: What Engine Oil

Postby mad992 on Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:00 pm

hey mate yeah good oil that ..theres a heap of info on here already go do a search.... 0w-40 full syn penrite is the G.O 8-)
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Re: What Engine Oil

Postby brum on Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:15 pm

mad992 wrote:hey mate yeah good oil that ..theres a heap of info on here already go do a search.... 0w-40 full syn penrite is the G.O 8-)



Thanks for that mad992
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Re: What Engine Oil

Postby subi_man on Mon Mar 30, 2009 5:29 pm

Welcome brum - try this thread for some oil opinions
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Re: What Engine Oil

Postby Homer on Tue Mar 31, 2009 7:50 am

I am sus on any 0 rated engine oil. Too thin for my liking - I don't know if synthetic technology is enough to overcome the watery oil.

Me thinks it was developed for cold European climates and made as thin as possible to increase horsepower ratings - but I aint no expert.
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Re: What Engine Oil

Postby NowForThe5th on Tue Mar 31, 2009 12:38 pm

If it was a monograde oil then the 0 would be too thin but with a multigrade this is only a measure of how the oil behaves when cold. When it warms up it would behave the same as a 40 grade. The design of the V6 engines particularly is such that the oil drains down from the top end which is why they are a bit noisy on startup when cold. The lighter oils get up there a bit quicker and get oil pressure up more quickly so lubrication is happening. IMHO 0W-40 is probably better suited to the Snowy's or a Canberra winter. The viscosity isn't necessarily a measure of the "slipperiness" of the oil which is determined by the structure and shape of the additive package molecules but there's no question that a heavier oil like 20W-50 noticeably reduces the ability of the engine to rev out. I wouldn't bother with synthetic, just change regularly.
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Re: What Engine Oil

Postby erne on Tue Mar 31, 2009 3:40 pm

The only specification I would follow is not to go below Acea B3 spec.
For that reason I would say that oils with Acea B4 spec are perfect for our triton. Then the viscosity depends as everybody already said from your weather condition.
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Re: Oil Matters (Merged with What Engine Oil)

Postby harley on Thu Apr 09, 2009 12:11 am

Hi guys,
just wanna chip in...
I'm using mobil 1 semi-syn 10-40 for my triton, nissan navara and ford everest (all are commonrail diesel).
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Re: Oil Matters (Merged with What Engine Oil)

Postby mad992 on Sun Apr 12, 2009 4:41 am

harley wrote:Hi guys,
just wanna chip in...
I'm using mobil 1 semi-syn 10-40 for my triton, nissan navara and ford everest (all are commonrail diesel).

yeah but in australia mobil 1 is so overpriced and in my opinion not the best like some people say in america it is cheap oil bought at wal-mart :?
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