TheSheepKed's 2013 MN GLX Build

[tacticaltriton]

Coming along well mate.

[TheSheepKed]

Got around to mounting the handheld - sat around trying to work out the best place to put it without interfering with leg space but to also allow me to pick it up easily.
Settled on the spot next to the steering wheel. Bolted a strong magnet to the trim and attached a metal plate to the back of the handheld. It holds really well but not so tight that I have to yank it off.




Flexible cable runs from the handheld to the coaxial which is tucked in the bottom under and behind the middle dash.
I really don't use a UHF that much but I like to have it for emergencies and when I go bushwalking (hence a handheld).

I haven't really been able to properly test how far I'm getting with the 6.5db aerial, but in one instance I got about 4 - 5km on Channel 40.
I'm still not sure what I think about the placement and this setup. I would like to hear your opinions on it.

[Minza]

It looks pretty neat mate, and remember, what ever works for you Is best,

[RHKTriton]

Brilliant! I love the idea of using the magnet, just thinking what an improvement that'd be for conventional mic over the hook-in holder.

[dieselweasel]

+1 for that too Rob

[TheSheepKed]

Saved up enough to get around to the mod I've been most looking forward to - an LED light bar.
I had been tossing up between the 22" and 28" ST4K but found that the 28" wouldn't fit between the middle hoop if it was mounted to the black bit. It would only fit if it was suspended by brackets and I didn't really like that.

It came with a relay that was easy enough to fit. Took me an hour (if that). Just bolted the relay near the battery, connected the black wire to the negative terminal and the red to the positive, connected up the light and ran the switch wires into the cabin via the driver's side grommet. The most difficult bit was trying to work out how to keep all the wires of the relay neat and tidy. A lot of cable ties seemed to do the job.

I also purchased a switch off Air On Board that required some soldering but that was simple enough. I haven't worked out how to tap into the illumination wire on the ASC switch next to it but it works fine. At the moment, it only illuminates the LED Bar picture and not the text when the button (and highbeam) is on.

I've tested the light out on some dark roads and the difference is night and day. I'm not sure how much difference the 28" light would have made but the 22" is more than enough for now.

[dieselweasel]

Top job mate, next a reversing led ?

[TheSheepKed]

Top job mate, next a reversing led ?

Haha don't give me ideas. I think I've spent enough on the car to last me a bit. Next mod would have to be a canopy (for work), so keeping an eye out for a second hand one.

[dieselweasel]

They're definitely out there, i found my flexiglass one for $100, in great working condition, i took off the racks and the frame inside and sold that on to make half that money back! Couldn't be without it now

[Ray57MQ]

Next mod would have to be a canopy (for work), so keeping an eye out for a second hand one.

I'm on lookout for my MQ and spotted this canopy for MN on ebay item # 182819956071
It's listed for $700 or best offer, BUT located on south coast nsw...if you can jag for lower price could be worthwhile for a trip or even freight ? Cheers Ray

[TheSheepKed]

Next mod would have to be a canopy (for work), so keeping an eye out for a second hand one.

I'm on lookout for my MQ and spotted this canopy for MN on ebay item # 182819956071
It's listed for $700 or best offer, BUT located on south coast nsw...if you can jag for lower price could be worthwhile for a trip or even freight ? Cheers Ray

Cheers for the heads up mate. Looks like its for a single cab MN though. Appreciate the gesture nonetheless.

[Ray57MQ]

[/quote]Cheers for the heads up mate. Looks like its for a single cap MN though. Appreciate the gesture nonetheless.[/quote]
Sorry mate, no pic's came up on my phone - good luck in your search.

[furious]

Saved up enough to get around to the mod I've been most looking forward to - an LED light bar.
I had been tossing up between the 22" and 28" ST4K but found that the 28" wouldn't fit between the middle hoop if it was mounted to the black bit. It would only fit if it was suspended by brackets and I didn't really like that.

It came with a relay that was easy enough to fit. Took me an hour (if that). Just bolted the relay near the battery, connected the black wire to the negative terminal and the red to the positive, connected up the light and ran the switch wires into the cabin via the driver's side grommet. The most difficult bit was trying to work out how to keep all the wires of the relay neat and tidy. A lot of cable ties seemed to do the job.

I also purchased a switch off Air On Board that required some soldering but that was simple enough. I haven't worked out how to tap into the illumination wire on the ASC switch next to it but it works fine. At the moment, it only illuminates the LED Bar picture and not the text when the button (and highbeam) is on.

I've tested the light out on some dark roads and the difference is night and day. I'm not sure how much difference the 28" light would have made but the 22" is more than enough for now.

Just wondering how you get that blank out to fit the switch, I have the same set up in installing today and can't seem to see how to get the blank out.

[TheSheepKed]

Just wondering how you get that blank out to fit the switch, I have the same set up in installing today and can't seem to see how to get the blank out.

First I gave it a good poke and that partially dislodged it from where it sat. I then put my hand in from underneath (via the fuse hatch that's directly below it) and squeezed the side tabs inwards and it came out. If you find that it's still stuck, get a very thin flathead screwdriver (the type that you would use for really tiny screws) and see if you can press down the tabs that are on the bottom and top of the switch. You can also just push the whole panel out partially (leave the bottom screws on) and it should help you visualise it a bit more.
Hope that helps.

[furious]

ok great thanks, I'll have a play.

[Ray57MQ]

Next mod would have to be a canopy (for work), so keeping an eye out for a second hand one.

PM sent

[Maxiy]

Got around to mounting the handheld - sat around trying to work out the best place to put it without interfering with leg space but to also allow me to pick it up easily.
Settled on the spot next to the steering wheel. Bolted a strong magnet to the trim and attached a metal plate to the back of the handheld. It holds really well but not so tight that I have to yank it off.

Flexible cable runs from the handheld to the coaxial which is tucked in the bottom under and behind the middle dash.
I really don't use a UHF that much but I like to have it for emergencies and when I go bushwalking (hence a handheld).

I haven't really been able to properly test how far I'm getting with the 6.5db aerial, but in one instance I got about 4 - 5km on Channel 40.
I'm still not sure what I think about the placement and this setup. I would like to hear your opinions on it.

Hey Sheepked

WHat radio and external antenna do you have ?

I awant to do the same thing you have done, as i dont us a UHF very often, and have found my 5w handheld oricom to be sufficient for 4x4, camping and fishing trips (most of the time). I just want to get a little more throw, so wwas considering an external antenna. Cant seem to find an oricom specific one. so wondering if the one you used was universal, or specific to your handheld ?

[TheSheepKed]

Hey Sheepked

WHat radio and external antenna do you have ?

I awant to do the same thing you have done, as i dont us a UHF very often, and have found my 5w handheld oricom to be sufficient for 4x4, camping and fishing trips (most of the time). I just want to get a little more throw, so wwas considering an external antenna. Cant seem to find an oricom specific one. so wondering if the one you used was universal, or specific to your handheld ?

Hi Maxiy,
I just bought a generic antenna off eBay - I think it was roughly $60 and came with a 6.5dB and a 3dB antennae that you can swap over. Provided your Oricom handheld has an antenna that can unscrew, then you can connect the coaxial cable to it with an adaptor. I'll PM you with some specific details and all.

[Warrior92]

Great progress!

[TheSheepKed]

So I wasn't 100% happy with the handheld UHF setup. The main difficulty was picking it up to talk. I considered getting a mic for it but that meant I would have to mount two things (the handheld UHF and the mic). So I just opted for a second hand Uniden UHF. It was in great condition and works well.

I initially mounted it in the empty single DIN tray below the stereo but I found that the speaker was being muffled by the plastic that it was sitting on.



I found that Uniden made a DIN face plate and mounting kit so I got one of those and it looks a lot better! It was quite fiddly to bolt everything together but it came together nicely and fit in without issue.






Rather than run new wires through the firewall, I just used a fuse tap on one of the unused slots, specifically the "Rear window wipers". 15amp fuse on the bottom, 3amp fuse on the top slot. It only turns on when the ignition is on. I prefer it this way as opposed to accidentally leaving it on all night and having a dead battery in the morning.

[RHKTriton]

Good job there sheepked, looks really professional.

[TheSheepKed]

For $50 (second hand), I can't complain - 75kg load rating. Will be plenty for the awning and shovel holder I plan to use it for. I know a lot of people don't like them because of the abrasive nature of the door jams but I'll be putting some double sided tape or rubber between them to minimise this issue.
Still undecided about getting a roof rack basket as I normally don't pack enough to need a rack. I'm looking for a canopy so I'll have even more space once the soft tonneau cover comes off.

[TheSheepKed]

Picked up a second hand TJM canopy. Finally got it on after much thought and deliberation.
I had to grind off the headboard which was a pain of a job but got there in the end.

Rather than use rivnuts as TJM did, I decided to go use nuts and bolts. For those who might want to do their own canopy install in the future, here's what I did.

1) Dry fit canopy and line up the 4 bolt holes (were pre-drilled by previous installer) and marked them with a sharpie.
2) Removed canopy and drilled using a step drill bit to begin, and then a cobalt drill bit to complete the hole. Note that the tub edge has two layers before you can access it from below. You need to drill through the top edge and then another below it before you can slot a bolt right through. Paint holes.
3) Dry fit canopy again and ensure bolt holes line up.
4) Clean edge with alcohol and line with butyl tape from Bunnings. Note that you will need two layers of butyl tape on the front most edge (closest to rear window) as one layer is not thick enough to touch the canopy. I made this mistake and will have to seal it with a bead of silicone.
5) Place canopy (two people) on tub and ensure it lines up before placing down. Butyl tape is incredibly strong.
6) Slot bolt (M10 size) in from the bottom so the nut is on the upper side.
7) See pictures below for the configuration I used.



I made up these rectangular washers from a length of steel (from Bunnings) to distribute the tension more evenly.
I also used nylon locking nuts for extra security.


Underside of the tub edge. Bolt head -> split ring washer -> normal M10 washer



I'm confident with this setup that the canopy is not going anywhere.
Only issue now is that it's leaking rain in from somewhere but can't find the source. The water seems to only be on the inside edge of the canopy in the channel directly behind the nut (in the picture above).

[RHKTriton]

Might have a small gap in the win do frame seal?

Certainly won't be moving.

Good job.

[RHKTriton]

Might have a small gap in the win do frame seal?

Certainly won't be moving.

Good job.