mirkoculic wrote:Hi all,
i have a mate who has a 2009 ML 5 Speed manual with a 2 piece tail shaft. He would like to know how and where if anybody knows he can get/purchase or get converted into a one piece and roughly the cost of doing it. He also lives in Melbourne and any info as per usual would be very much appreciated.
Regards,
Mick
black sabbath wrote:Hi i have looked through this thread and understand people say using a tail shaft spacer and castor wedge but it is rather unclear as to what size of each i require.
How do i know which one i need?
ive seen spacers and castor wedges come in all sorts of sizes
how do i know which one i need ,
is there a set type of size for the so called lift height ?
viking shippy wrote:black sabbath wrote:Hi i have looked through this thread and understand people say using a tail shaft spacer and castor wedge but it is rather unclear as to what size of each i require.
How do i know which one i need?
ive seen spacers and castor wedges come in all sorts of sizes
how do i know which one i need ,
is there a set type of size for the so called lift height ?
Ultimate suspension has wedges and spacers in stock...
black sabbath wrote:viking shippy wrote:black sabbath wrote:Hi i have looked through this thread and understand people say using a tail shaft spacer and castor wedge but it is rather unclear as to what size of each i require.
How do i know which one i need?
ive seen spacers and castor wedges come in all sorts of sizes
how do i know which one i need ,
is there a set type of size for the so called lift height ?
Ultimate suspension has wedges and spacers in stock...
Yep yep thanks mate, but my concern is, how do i know what size i need?
how do i determine what size spacer and what degree wedge i need prior to buying them and then being the wrong ones?
rsv4dan wrote:Putting my dobinsons lift into my MQ tomorrow(practically same shit as an MN).
Im worried because my car has a bad shudder at STANDARD ride height, i can only imagine it's going to get way worse.. have to wait and see. It comes with a spacer for the tail shaft so i'll be fitting that. Might have to look at castor wedges also.
Now can anyone tell me, if spacing the rear transmission mount up say 5-10mm to lift the transmission will help? Seems easy and this should slightly remove some of the "bend" in the tail shaft center bearing, correct - thus removing some tendency to shudder?
Kegsy wrote:Depends what the factory angle is on either side of the centre carrier bearing...
Having a completely straight driveline is bad, and it will vibrate. The trick is to have the angles on either end of the tailshaft exactly the same IE: alternate angles. This will balance the tailshaft and eliminate any vibration.
So say the driveshaft leaves the gearbox at 5deg down, you want 5deg up at the centre-carrier, then if it leaves the centre carrier at 25deg down you want 25deg up at the pinion. You'll never get it perfect, but the closer you get the better the result.
If by shimming up the GB mount creates this scenario with the centre bearing it might be worth a shot, as long as you don't flatten out the angle on the engine itself too much.
Jazza wrote:Hi guys new to the forum, but I've got a 2015 MN.. I've got the shudder on stock sus but have a crap tonne of weight in the tray so the sus has sagged. Came to this forum to search peoples preference in lift / load bearing looking at Outback Armour
NowForThe5th wrote:Shudder with a lot of weight and sagged suspension? Normally that would be in the no shudder zone.
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