Figured seeing how I have one of the first mq tritons I'll start a build thread as a pioneer.
Delivery state was pretty standard, only extras were fabric, rust, paint protection and Darkest legal tint
* swapped the factory 245/65r17 tyres 0km for toyo at2 265/65 and while being a bit louder am impressed with the wet weather grip and traction.
*bought some factory rubber floor mats off ebay for half the price the dealers wanted.
Left it like that til first service 1500km. Returned it to dealer with one issue, surface rust on the chassis, wiper arms and sports bar. Still waiting for a result but I'm guessing it will be quicker to paint it myself with kill rust
*day after the service got my tub spray lined, under rail, very impressed with the finish. And it has quietened the rear down
*wired up power to the tray. Matson adjustable vsr courtesy of super cheap ebay 20% off sale. Basically the same as the Mn triton, start battery>vsr>100amp circuit breaker>cable run along chassis to Lh rear light>Anderson plug>100amp breaker>removable 105ah battery in box. All cable in split tubing and cable tied out of the way. Ran the earth to chassis bolt, measured zero voltage drop, if I have issues I'll run it to the battery. Only issue is very little room behind the tailights for the 2 cables in spilt tube, lots of swearing.
*fitted Mitsubishi roof bars, rebranded thule bars, surprising cheap. And they bolt down into factory nutsert in the roof, no more clamping over the door. Chucked my roo systems 2mx2m awning up on the passenger side. Had this on my challenger, have mounted LEDs in the awning which will run off my Aux battery in the tub.
*chucked the chip off my challenger onto the Mq. Set it to 8, too early to tell if it made as big an improvement as it did on my old car, especially as I'm pretty happy with the Mq power wise anyway. A lot easier to fit and remove than on the 2.5 engines. The fuel rail is ontop of the engine, facing radiator. All you need to remove is the 3 bolts holding the engine cover on, lift that off and it's right in front of you. Zip tied the chip up on the firewall behind the battery. Easier than trying to blindly reach between the block and firewall like the the 2.5ltr
*bought a vgate obd2 Bluetooth adapter. For some reason the only temp I can pick up on the exhaust side is catalyst. The dpf has probes just after the turbo so hoping that is catalyst on the scanner. Before chip saw temps get up to 650c on a long up hill climb in 6th gear. Haven't had a chance to test with chip
Next mod will be fitting a factory hard lid, supposedly still on the ship coming from Japan. Along with any bull bar or tow bar an owner might want to fit.