DPF light flashing on MQ

[Scottymac34]

Hi guys,
I've had a pretty good look around and couldn't find what I was looking for so apologies in advance if this has been posted elsewhere. My wife was driving the MQ home from work yesterday and the DPF light on the dash started flashing. She actually took pictures of the pages in the handbook and sent them to me. Has anyone else had this happen to theirs? I called the local dealer and they said to bring it in so the can plug the scan tool into it and diagnose the issue, also said if it's not warranty related, I get to pay them $135 for the privilege of them just checking it. Don't see why it wouldn't be, it's driven about 70 klms daily on the highway which should be sufficient for a burn?

Thoughts?

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

You have possibly got a faulty no3 temperature sensor on the DPF.

There is a hotline fix concerning the routing of the cabling to this sensor, and if the routing is not correct it can cause an intermittant sensor reading causing your issue.

Does your dealer service your MQ?

[Scottymac34]

Mate I only bought it in December from a yard in Brissy and they had serviced it when they traded it. Hopefully the new car warranty will cover it.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

As long as they used the correct type of oil for a DPF.

[Scottymac34]

I was doing some reading on here about oil today, I hope they used the right oil too!

[Rain]

Just because you drive it 70kms on the freeway doesnt mean that it gets time for a proper burn. There are certain conditions that have to me met. Engine has to be in the proper rpm range for a duration of time for a proper full dpf burn. Sometimes manually shifting the gear to 4th and leaving it there helps to keep the rpm up.

I own three MQ tritons and they are extremely reliable. My oldest has 255,000kms and still going strong. Bought it new late 2015 serviced at home with penrite 5w30 fully synthetic oil every 15000kms. Driven by many drivers as they are business vehicles and they are not the most gentle drivers.

Where are u located? If u are in Sydney i have a Snapon dealer level scanner and i can check yours out for u. It has the ability to do dpf regens and a whole lot more. Cheers

[Scottymac34]

Cheers Rain,
I’m up on the Far North Coast. I get what you’re saying about the conditions being right, the book only says 20mins at over 40kph. So technically according to Mitsubishi, it’s getting the work it needs. Still waiting to hear back from the dealer when they finally can spare a couple of minutes to check it out.

[Rain]

I reckon take it for a good drive early morning when you can actually do 110kph without any traffic for at least a good 30mins. Stick the gear in manual and leave it in 4th gear and keep the revs between 2500-3000rpm. That is the rpm range that the engine revs up to when you are doing a manual dpf burn off. This should normally clear the dpf out if it is slightly blocked or filling up. However, if it keeps on coming even after a good freeway run, then it will need a manual dpf regen.

Just be careful that you don't get both dpf and check engine light. At this stage, your car will go into limp mode. Also, note that you can actually do manual dpf regens more than once. You can do back to back regens until the dpf is fully cleared. You can check the % of soot accumulation after every regen and it gives an indication as to how much is burnt off after each regen.

A lot of dealers would do one dpf regen and if that fails to clear the clogged dpf, they will recommend a replacement (more coin for them). However, in reality, a few manual dpf regens will actually clear the whole things out. Dealers are too lazy to do this as it is not going to earn them any money.

Had this happen to one of our BT50s and it took 6 dpf regens to clear it out completely. That is 3hrs of dpf regens. Dealers would never do this. They will try a couple of times and throw you the bill and say it is too far gone for any regens. Good luck anyways mate.

[Scottymac34]

Thanks Rain. Went and picked it up today, diagnostics showed code P232F. They
had a look around and noticed the inter cooler is damaged and has some oil leaking from it. Quoted me $851 for a new inter cooler, I can get a genuine one for half that.

[Rain]

How many kms do you have on your Triton? If there are no physical damage on the intercooler, I'd be getting the dealer to change it free of charge due to defective material.

One of my BT50s had a split intercooler and they tried to charge me $1500 for it. Ute is a MY16 with 120,000kms so no warranty but i argued the point that intercoolers are meant to last a lot longer than that and since they couldn't prove any physical damage, i ended up getting it all covered by the manufacturer.

They tried to give me all the BS under the sun and all I had to do was mention ACCC and aus consumer law. Good luck anyway mate.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Are you sure its not P252F?

Its not uncommon for oil to leak past the o ring on the flange at the intercooler. This can be made worse by overtightening the bolts . They only need 20nm.

But this code is NORMALLY associated with a with a temp sensor like in my post above. if you have a look down beside the DPF you will see the sensor and the bracket holding the wiring. Like this

https://imgur.com/4q5uZTV

The lines i coloured in point to an actual mark on the wiring. the line is white/yellow ish and should be where my yellow mark is. in reality the line is normally where the red mark is, and this means the wiring is too tight and will give incidental codes like P252F, which is for overfilled with oil, because the DPF cannot regenerate correctly, and everytime it tries it dumps fuel in the oil. This is how you get an overfill code.

There is an hotline fix for this, so your dealer should know about it. Once the wiring has been too tight, the sensor must be replaced, with the wiring mark in the correct position, which is 10mm to the left of the bracket (my yellow mark)

its very unusual to see an intercooler alone causing this. Of course it can happen, and i would hope your dealer is professional enough to look at all the possibilities.

[ryanjamesmorris91]

Hi Scotty,

My triton just did the same thing. Ended up being a dpf sensor that could be related to the poor routing described above. It is the second sensor it has done in 2 years, so sounds like an inherent flaw. Dpf light flashing.

The code would be p252f. Which is oil level too high. This is a result of the sensor failing, the dpf not being able to burn, and the filter returning the unused diesel to the sump. You will see on your dipstick an X mark that the sump will allow to fill to before the oil must be changed. Mine was at this level and alarm bells starting going off for me. I got the above code when I scanned it at home and the oil level was too high when I checked. This is the design intention, so might be good for everyone to pay attention to their dipstick.

Mits are repairing the sensor and I'm paying for oil and a filter. Annoying but the truck is due for an oil change so can't complain too much. 75k km

viewtopic.php?p=285655

Here is a list of all Mits codes from a different thread.

Hope that helps mate,

Ryan

[Scottymac34]

Thanks for the responses guys, it’s only got 27,000ks on it but the intercooler has had a whack and there’s oil leaking from the bottom corner of it. When the Mitsubishi dealership gave me the invoice they had P232F as the code but it must’ve been a typo. The oil was up near the X on the dipstick though. I contacted the dealer in Brisbane, Redlands Mazda, who said they’re not happy with that and said to bring it back to them and they’ll give me a car until they’ve got it sorted. I’m in Lismore so it’s only a 2hr drive. I just dropped the oil yesterday and got it back to the full mark with some fresh stuff and a new filter. All going well, they’ll replace the intercooler, clear the code and tell it to have a burn. Hopefully that solves the problem!

Cheers

[mini]

DPF light, did not know my MQ had such a lamp, back to the manual for me then

[Scottymac34]

DPF light, did not know my MQ had such a lamp, back to the manual for me then

Yeah, it looks better in the manual than in real life.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Hi Scotty,

My triton just did the same thing. Ended up being a dpf sensor that could be related to the poor routing described above. It is the second sensor it has done in 2 years, so sounds like an inherent flaw. Dpf light flashing.



Ryan

More likely that who ever replaced it did not follow the procedure correctly. Bad workmanship.

[Scottymac34]

Update.

Got the new intercooler fitted, new oil and filter, and a burn. Light has been cleared and done about 500ks over the weekend. So far so good.
The young lady at Quayside Mitsubishi service said the intercooler would be $851 and that if I found a cheaper genuine one, it wouldn’t be a real genuine one. Redlands Mazda fitted a genuine intercooler that cost $450. There’s no way I’ll ever take my Ute to Quayside in Lismore again. BURGLARS!!!

[ryanjamesmorris91]

Hi Scotty,

My triton just did the same thing. Ended up being a dpf sensor that could be related to the poor routing described above. It is the second sensor it has done in 2 years, so sounds like an inherent flaw. Dpf light flashing.



Ryan

More likely that who ever replaced it did not follow the procedure correctly. Bad workmanship.

Is there something both the factory and the workshop both did incorrectly? Peculiar that I'm on my third sensor now don't you think? Seems to indicate an inherent flaw rather than workmanship on two occasions.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

If it was an inherent flaw there would be many more of them doing it. I have replaced quite a few of these sensors where they have been to other dealers and the same fault comes back again. Check the wiring position and it is incorrect.

The info sheet is very easy to read, and has detailed pictures showing positions both before and after fitting, so you would think they stood a chance of getting it right. All of the sensors we replace get a photo taken and attached to the warranty file to ensure we get paid.

[WUNSIE]

Hi DibbyDibby, mate if you work for a dealer around Newcastle-Central Coast NSW , Your the one I want doing my servicing can you give us a hint as to where you wave your wand

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Hi DibbyDibby, mate if you work for a dealer around Newcastle-Central Coast NSW , Your the one I want doing my servicing can you give us a hint as to where you wave your wand

Wish i could, Could gets lots of business, but i would have my access cut off if i did.

[WUNSIE]

Totally understand, and welcome your knowledge when called upon on this forum

[JewelAV]

Hi All,

Thank you for this information. Could someone please detail where the number 3 sensor is on the DPF? A few mornings back I was unfortunate enough to run into/over an aluminium ladder on the freeway in the rain. I hit it with the front right wheel, which caused a split sidewall on the right rear. That afternoon the DPF light started to flash. I took it to my mechanic who tested it and it came up with a warning 'oil level too high'. We did a DPF regen, but the light is still flashing. It's presently in at the Mitsi Dealer (having a sleepover) and they have yet to ascertain the fault. This info is awesome, thanks to everybody for their input. I'll be heading back into the dealer first thing.

Is it at all feasible that debris could impact or disturb the #3 sensor?

Cheers Jeff

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Not easily it is accessible from under wheel arch. remove the rear rubber flap and it is right there.

Your symptoms sound like a faulty connection in the wiring. If the sensor had been damaged it would have a code for it and not just the oil level too high.

Its easy enough to confirm. Using MUT or oscilloscope they can see the signal from the sensor, and it will have an erratic pattern whilst engine warms up, whereas it should have a smooth linear trace all the way along.

[mitzi1]

If a dpf does a regen and there is no light on the dash ( i think it's supposed to be a warning in the centre display according to the handbook) what is the problem there please? Mine got hot as hell the other day driving in heavy traffic and at idle the revs kept lifting to 900 (aircon off). It stopped before I got home . Next day, the thing was running much better, more power and much improved fuel economy. Obviously a regen, but no dash warning light.
All advice welcome.